How South Korea is challenging male beauty norms

Credit : Instagram / @laka.official

Credit : Instagram / @laka.official

It’s raining men’s products in Korea, as the country keeps its rank of the #1 male skincare market in the world, with a +80% increase since 2010. K-men are ambitious, sophisticated connoisseurs of Beauty, moving to high end skincare and surgery to look just as beautiful as women.

DRIVERS DEFYING SOCIAL NORMS

Inspired by K-pop and social medias, men in South Korea are reportedly spending more on skincare per person than men anywhere else in the world - defying heteronormative expectations in a society rather socially conservative. Millennial males drive Beauty sales, and South Korea accounts for about one-fifth of the global market for male cosmetics. According to Euromonitor, the market for men’s skincare increased in South Korea by 80% between 2010 and 2016, and men spend $26.90 per person per year on skincare products. In the Hyundai Department Store’s, male cosmetics purchases (per capita) rose from 68,000 won in 2015 to 85,000 won last year (source: DongA.com).

 
The Beauty influencer Joon-Peanut / courtesy of Joon-Peanut

The Beauty influencer Joon-Peanut / courtesy of Joon-Peanut

 

Online, vloggers such as Kim Seoung-Hwan (@whanonline - 125K YouTube followers), Joon-Peanut (294K YouTube followers), LeoJ - @ LeoJ Makeup (250K YouTube followers), and- K-pop stars cover makeup and have become very first Korean beauty YouTubers to try genderless makeups.

75% of South Korean males claim to do a beauty/grooming treatment at home once a week or more, compared with just 38% in France.” - explains Lia Neophytou (Consumer Analyst at GlobalData) adds that in a Forbes article.

FROM PROMOTING WOMEN TO SELLING TO MEN

Until now, men were used as models (especially K-Pop models) to promote women’s line. Now things are shifting as brands are launching male-targeted products specifically addressed to millennial men or genderfluid individuals.

While in Japan, brands play on a certain neutrality, now there is a competition going on which is to be as beautiful as women. So men are moving to surgery. Men want to be beautiful to achieve good positions and to be as beautiful as the k-drama stars”, explained Florence Bernardin at the MakeUp in New York event. Famous brand, Tonymoly, even launched the Camo Cream, a 4 color camouflage compact marketed to military servicemen in South Korea.

The Camo Cream by Tonymoly / courtesy of the brand

The Camo Cream by Tonymoly / courtesy of the brand

PRETTY BOY

The new man openly grooms himself and doesn’t hesitate to share on social media. In skincare, Su:m 37 added a new line, Dear Homme, targeting a higher end consumer. The group LG, who also owns Belif, relaunched its men’s line, Manology, and reduced the number of all in one products from five to two to meet more sophisticated demands of consumers. Missha launched an all-in-one Essence Skin Care, which consists of four types of ampoules, water, cream, and toning to help men manage their skin according to their specific skin troubles.

 
Credits : courtesy of the brand

Credits : courtesy of the brand

 

In makeup, LAKA became the first Gender Neutral Makeup line in Korea, that released 12 shades of sheer lipstick lines with videos to ease application. The colors are for both men and women, emphasizing that one can create their own image.

 
Credit : Instagram / @laka.official

Credit : Instagram / @laka.official

 

Launched last summer in Korea, Boy de Chanel, represents the first international premium line to target male cosmetics. The line includes a matte moisturizing lip balm, a tinted fluid, and an eyebrow pencil, all in four different shades. Driven by Korea, men in China have also increased their beauty consumption. According to the China Industrial Information Network, 60% of Chinese urban men use cosmetics every day. The proportion of men buying cosmetics increased by 36% from the previous year and the ratio of men and women increased from 6 to 4 (Source CosKorea.com).

Credits : ze-mag

Credits : ze-mag

Twice a year, the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency edits its What’s Up Seoul, a condensed trend report dedicated to the hottest trend in K-Beauty. For more information, contact us.

IS STRIPPED PACKAGING THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY?

Source: @packagefreeshop / Instagram

Source: @packagefreeshop / Instagram

Plastics have become our Planet’s n°1 enemy. Yet, when it comes to pack, inspiring initiatives coming from brands are shaking things up…And giving us hope.

Inside-out zero waste was one of our top trends for 2019: “zero pack” or “smart packaging” initiatives are rolling out at a rapid rate. Accounting for over 40% of total plastic usage, but with only 14% of it being recycled, packaging has become a burning issue, especially for the Beauty market. According to the Zero Waste association, more than 120 billion units of packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry, much of which un-recyclable (a regular plastic container takes about 1,000 years to decompose.)

THE PACK CHALLENGE: A NEW SENSE OF PURPOSE

Facing these catastrophic numbers, will packaging soon become extinct?

Probably not, according to Beauty experts. On last January, “How to keep packaging relevant with consumers of all generations” was one of the key conference during the French PCD event dedicated to packs.

“Packaging is not dead! It is just a question of meaning” explained Maud Cariddi, Chief Marketing Officer at Merci Handy. Packaging needs to make sense again. Whether it’s by being smarter in its form with stripped down material, thanks to eco-redesigning, or in its purpose by displaying only essential informations and taking less space.

For Merci Handy, this resulted in the creation of eco-friendly packs (100% recyclable, with 30% recycled material for hand gels), as well as smarter packaging, like the collab Merci Handy x Duralex that created scented candles in re-usable Duralex glasses.

 
Photo Credits: Courtesy of Merci Handy

Photo Credits: Courtesy of Merci Handy

 

“This new packaging paradigm started in the food segment, and is now naturally cascading on Beauty, as most trends are. We are currently observing two new ways of addressing packs” says Leïla Rochet, founder of the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. “One that we call beautiful waste, which is essentially eco-friendly packs, where packaging are made from sustainable forests for example, or when the pack already comes from recycled material. And a second one, harder to achieve in cosmetics, that we call naked, which is a 100% plastic-free or even pack-free product.”

ECO-CONCEPTION: “BEAUTIFUL WASTE”

Fortunately in 2019, a various range of products are now offering eco-friendly options. Legacy brand Guerlain entirely re-designed the Orchidée Impériale Moisturizer, now 60% lighter, and is currently working on La Petite Robe Noire’s bottle for 2020. Eminence Organics’ skincare uses boxes made from post-consumer recycled material, which can be later recycled. The organic skincare brand Meow Meow Tweet aims for Zero Waste with recyclable and biodegradable packaging (each product is either hand wrapped in PCW paper or housed in glass containers). The men skincare brand Bulldog Skincare has replaced its usual plastics with packaging derived from sugarcane, significantly reducing its environmental impact and carbon dioxide emissions. Even the giant Garnier launched a new version of the Garnier Fructis Pure Clean shampoo and conditioner in a bottle containing 50% recycled plastic.

ZERO WASTE: THE ULTIMATE CHALLENGE?

 
Source: @packagefreeshop / Instagram

Source: @packagefreeshop / Instagram

 

The 100% pack-free initiative is a different kettle of fish. If solid cosmetics have been around for decades, making them high-end, sensorial and hygienic is a new challenge. It also implies new rituals and gestures, among which installing refillable habits, and therefore, whole new processes for brands. “ Our planet deserves clean, too,” decorates the refillable stations at Follain in New York, a nice demonstration on how zero waste can also be super hype.

 
Source: Cosmeticseeds - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation blog at Follain NYC

Source: Cosmeticseeds - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation blog at Follain NYC

 


Of course, Lush is (and has been) the uncontested leader in this area. After its pack-free foundations and highlighters last summer, the brand released the Naked line, a collection of 10 new vegan, self-preserving, zero waste skincare products, with solid face oils, under-eye masks and face cleansers. The brand also just announced the opening of a third “naked store” in Manchester, following the packaging-free shops in Berlin and Milan.

Will the future be naked? One thing is sure: Beauty brands are trying to reconcile luxury and sustainability, and they aren’t done being creative.


Zero waste and the new challenges for packs are part of the latest trend report Inspiration From the US - Skincare Edition, created by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. For more informations, feel free to contact the team.











Meet the maker: Valérie Grandury, the vibrant soul behind Odacité Skincare

Capture d’écran 2019-03-15 à 11.44.38.png

Blending California’s signature eco-chic cool with a healthy dose of French savoir-faire, Odacité serves up a more luxurious natural skincare experience. Odacité, is a brand that had the audacity to be one of the pioneer of Clean Beauty. And with one foot firmly planted in France, the home of beauty, and the other in California’s revolutionary wellness scene, it’s no wonder that this unique brand has become one of the most successful clean beauty brand in the US and abroad. 

Launched by Valérie Grandury and Romain Gaillard, inspiration for Odacité’s natural, potent and toxic-free promise came off the back of Grandury’s own life journey. A journey that took her from being diagnosed with breast cancer to becoming a wellness coach and ultimately a skincare innovator championing new product safety standards.  

Since then, Odacité has won acclaim for its 18-strong range of Pure Elements serums, a line of concentrated oils individually designed with biological active ingredients to target a spectrum of complexion dilemmas.  With a handy size that has won them legions of fans, their blends continue to garner praise among beauty mavens. Look no further than their luscious carrot oil formula for glowing proof. 

Credits: @odacite / Instagram

Credits: @odacite / Instagram

But beyond its ever-popular oil concentrates, Odacité has also forged a pioneering attitude towards crystals. Boasting a line-up of must-have crystal Gua Sha facial tools, touted to promote skin contour and glow, the brand continues to prove it can marry tradition with innovation.

 An early fan of the brand, Leila Rochet sat down with Valérie to discuss the Franco-Californian magic at the heart of Odacité, how wellness vibes have infiltrated the beauty world and the unique beauty expertise her brand has to offer. 

 L: California feels like ground zero for indie brands like Odacité. How has the Californian narrative been key to Odacité’s development?

 V: France boasts a tremendously high level of beauty expertise and artisanal know-how. Not to mention an art for cultivating beauty that is envied across the world. But with this love of tradition also comes a fear of change. When I began discussing my plan to create a potent natural skincare range combining California’s green-living ethos with the French art of skincare, the feedback I got from either side of the Atlantic was very telling. Many of the French voices I heard chimed in with all the reasons my plan would fail, while in California all I heard was why my idea was awesome.

It’s this positive outlook that really drives California. The Californian vibe, its enthusiastic attitude, its green perspective and its “think different” mindset gives me wings. It has become an essential part of my creative energy and the entire reason I decided to move away from my home country.  Of course, I’ve always kept challenges, dangers and obstacles in mind, but I’m motivated by California’s enthusiastic outlook. It’s where I feel safe to create, where I am inspired to rethink conventional practices and where I am empowered to disrupt the status quo. There’s just a different level of enthusiasm here. Here in California we believe in change whereas in France we often don’t. That being said, Odacité just wouldn’t exist without the extraordinary inspiration and know-how France provides me. It’s just as fundamental to Odacité as my Californian influences. Odacité’s heart beats to a Californian-French rhythm.

 

“Odacité’s heart beats to a Californian-French rhythm.”

 

L: In recent years Odacité has been singled out as one of the best-known clean beauty brands in the industry, which product do you think has been key to your France-meets-Los-Angeles success story?

V: The 2013 launch of our Serum Concentrates was really important for us, mainly because it piqued a lot of interest from the press and exclusive retailers. We launched in Nordstrom in the US and in Colette in Paris with these 18 issue-focused serums. Made from a concentrated lipidic formula, they’re designed to address the complex biology of different skin types and the many daily factors that affect them. Just by adding one to two drops they give a boost to any regular AM or PM beauty routine.

I think our success comes from this, the fact that our innovative oil-based formula is customized and can be added to any existing routine. Plus, we target specific issues for effective results. Today, many women want to use natural ingredients, but aren’t necessarily ready to go all-in on a fully natural routine.  So, for them our Serum Concentrates offer a great alternative. 

Credits: @odacite / Instagram

Credits: @odacite / Instagram

L: As you go international what are the main challenges your brand faces? Is being independent a strength?

V: Having an indie status is a strength, but maintaining it is a constant challenge. Some days it’s wonderful and some days, not so much. Even more so for a brand like ours which has been growing exponentially and has had large financial costs to reconcile. For example, in 2018 we grew by 75%. When it comes to logistics that meant that we had to double the size of our workspace, double our lab space, double the capacity of our shipping warehouse and hire 15 people. In short, a lot of work.

“On the other hand, we have managed to adapt to this growth in a really organic way, only launching products we really wanted to and not rushing into offering discounts. And all with the luxury of also being able to pick our retailers and select amazing product ingredients that didn’t sacrifice our integrity, quality or vision.”

On the other hand, we have managed to adapt to this growth in a really organic way, only launching products we really wanted to and not rushing into offering discounts. And all with the luxury of also being able to pick our retailers and select amazing product ingredients that didn’t sacrifice our integrity, quality or vision. If I had had an investor telling me I needed to hit 75% growth I would have been stressed out and much less focused on my job of creating the best possible product I could without compromise. 

For now, I’m enjoying our independent status and I’m safe-guarding it knowing full well that the time will come that we will eventually need a partner.  Just one who understands how to protect our uniqueness and what differentiates us. 



To dive into Odacité’s world of beauty, visit www.odacite.com

Want more of the scoop on the clean beauty scene? Take a look at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s special dossier on clean beauty within its latest USA makeup inspiration report and contact the agency for more information.



Meet the maker: Alexis Robillard, the Jungle King behind brand ALL TIGERS

Capture d’écran 2019-03-12 à 12.13.59.png

Meet Alexis Robillard, the Jungle King behind ALL TIGERS, the new ferociously French (and vegan!) brand that has taken Instagram by storm and federated a women-powered community. A beautiful match between transparency, ethics and sensoriality, as Clean Beauty is on the rise…

What’s not to love about ALL TIGERS? It’s vegan, it’s natural, it’s glamorous…and it’s French. A Paris-powered indie brand, that says a lot on how French creativity is doing these days in the Beauty world. Moreover, it’s ALL TIGERS’ digital strategic model that caught the attention. The Insta-brand has mainly focused on its community, making women part of the brand-making process. « It’s what we call a DNVB Brand », explains Leïla Rochet, founder of the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency, “or digitally native vertical brand. A new business model suppressing traditional intermediaries at the begining and end of the value chain. How it works: the brand includes clients right at the beginning of product development, immediately listens to their insights as they go, federates them through social media, and controls its own distribution. As a result, success came fast, and growth was exponential. Let’s here about Alexis’s insights.

S : What’s the idea behind All Tigers ?

A : While searching for a lipstick for my teenage girl, I was chocked to see how limited the choices were. A woman wanting to concile a clean and ethic formulation with a beautiful yet effective product, the options were quite small. I realized that makeup had been completly forgotten by green cosmetic. The idea became an obsession, and I started it. 

Shortly after, I called out women on Instagram to ask them to co-create the perfect lipstick with me. 300 women subscribed from the first day, and, as the community became much more larger, we started to talk everyday about each step of the creation of All Tigers’ lipsticks. 

 

«  The All Tigers woman is a queen of the modern  jungle :a value-driven woman, strong, determinated, engaged, in a complex word, sometimes hostile. She’s like a tiger ; powerful but threatened »

 

S: From vegan to organic initiatives, the Beauty Industry is repositioning itself, especially the Clean Beauty segment. How is ALL TIGERS following that trend?

A : It’s all about the formula. We switch every ingredient with one that is aligned with our convictions. For instance, I refuse to use carmine pigments from cochineal, so we can’t technically make a lipstick that would be both organic and vegan-friendly. It is the reason why we do not have those labels. But the organic norms and standards inspire us for the formulations, the packaging, and we strive to deliver the best product possible. Efficiency is also a key: our lipsticks are meant to be very long-wearing, which means they do not dry out lips. We obtained that thanks to a precise dosage of plant oils in the formula, which was a very technical yet fascinating process to invent.

S : Where do you think your love for Clean Beauty comes from?  

A : I am very sensitive to everything that is consumers’ care, natural products, ethics etc. I was often frustrated to not be able to do anything about this during my past professional life. I remember being a young product manager, asking questions about parabens as the controversy was just starting, at a meeting in front of senior managers, and being laughed at: it was not a good moment for me! (laughs)

10 years ago, I remember succeeded in launching an organic range in a brand that was not. A huge amount of work where I really got to understand how challenging working with clean ingredients was. We did not succeed, but I learned a lot from this : the clean argument was not enough. Consumers expected more in terms of efficiency and dream-selling ideas. I tried to drive these convictions to several projects, but it often ended in global strategies and did not take. It’s really only by starting from scratch that you can fully take into account environmental and social factors. For example, ALL TIGERS is a proud member of 1% FOR THE PLANET by giving 1% of its sales to the association fighting for the protection of tigers in Asia. This is a very large project, englobing large ecosystems, which is why it would have been hard to implement it in a big group. 

S : Indeed, new generations are now fully aware of how « greenwashing » is affecting marketing. They can just scan a product on their smartphones to check the composition. Would you dare say Clean Beauty is the future of the Beauty sector ?

A : A growing number of educated consumers are rejecting specific ingredients and striving for more transparency : formulations are of course going to have to evolve. Even if Beauty players are harder to convince because this forces them to question their whole system of production and rethink their brands, they will eventually become actors of this change too. I’m convinced this a new norm that we are facing. 

S : Women’s representation is key for brands in 2019. Who is the Tiger woman according to you ? 

A : She is a queen of the modern  jungle : a value-driven woman, strong, determinated, in a complex world that can sometimes be hostile. Just like a tiger: powerful but threatened. The Tiger woman is couscious about what’s imposed to her, she wants the best for herself, for her beauty and her health. She wants to feel and be in charge, speak her mind about products, take part of a community where she will be listened to. I’ve noticed that she has no specific age or social class, she’s really all about the confidence and attitude.

S : Indeed, beyond ethical makeup, women thrive to be empowered by their products. What would you like to bring them through All Tigers ?

A : Makeup is often wrongly assimilated as something superficial. I like to say that ads let us believe for a long time that lipstick was only for smiling or seducing. With All Tigers, I would like to raise women’s voices to give them to space to be heard. For example, on our blog  all-tigers.com we interview inspiring women, which is not that common in makeup.

“Makeup is often wrongly assimilated as something superficial. I like to say that ads let us believe for a long time that lipstick was only for smiling or seducing. With All Tigers, I would like to raise women’s voices to give them to space to be heard.”

 

S : A man creating lipsticks for women…A little unusual, don’t you think?

 A : I’ve asked myself that very question since the beginning: this lipstick of a new generation, more respectful for women, needs to exist, but is it really my fight? But if we stop at this, nobody is going to do it! Now we’re two years after, and I noticed nobody else is carrying a project as like that. However, I am not a product user, which makes my point of view completely neutral! Well, I do still have my believes of course. But every client is better educated than myself in wearing lipsticks, which always puts me in a position where I need to listen.

S : Would you say ALL TIGERS has a French Touch?

This brand is a melting pot : an English name, an Asian totem animal, an Italian expert laboratory…But the creative touch and the quest for excellence, which guided every step of the making process, are definitely french. It’s a radical brand, without compromises, and that is very Frenchie indeed!

 A : Do you have a favourite product or shade ? 

 I love working with colors. Selecting our 12 first shades came from a long talk with our Instagram community to fit every style and skin tone. I personally love the metallic turquoise, the  turquoise métal 989,. It’s so radical, it’s a 2 in 1, it can be worn on its own or as a top coat. Even if it is not a best-seller, it’s the shade that best suits our message : even green cosmetics can create unexpected effects, fashion statement, bold styles.

The shade 989

The shade 989

S: What’s next for All Tigers ? 

A : ALL TIGERS has still a lot to say! We’re not done roarrring. We are developping a range of nailpolish that fits our values, with a French partner : Tigers will now be able to take their claws out with style !

 

Want to know more about ALL TIGERS ? Become a part of the jungle queen tribe. 


You liked this article ? The agency Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, expert in the Beauty industry, has devoted an entire file to Clean Beauty in its last USA  makeup Inspiration.
Contact the agency to get more info.



RAISING THE BAR OF CLEAN BEAUTY

Photo Credits: Airony Haut / Unsplash

Photo Credits: Airony Haut / Unsplash

Much like clean eating, clean beauty has recently taken the industry by storm. Yet, as the wellness movement continues to influence industry, more and more clean beauty products are being dropped into a market where there are no recognized clean-certified labels.

Initially driven by safety concerns, the clean beauty movement originally focused on what was NOT in a product, rather than what was. Today, as consumers want more, clean beauty is taking a new turn. From niche to mainstream, new clean products are not just “safe”; they are becoming increasingly sensorial and luxurious.

WHEN FEAR TURNS TO LOVE

Like many beauty trends, it all started with food. The #cleaneating hashtag has garnered over 42 million mentions on Instagram, to the point where it has its very own eating disorder, orthorexia.

Like many wellness trends (from organic to cruelty-free and green), a blend of fear and love has driven this new clean beauty movement, as much like food, cosmetics are meant to be both indulgent, but safe for consumers. Worn close to the body and against the skin, beauty products have always symbolized a soulful sense of love, self-care and intimacy.

In contrast, fear has been fueled by the opaque nature of beauty industry messaging, especially when it comes to ingredients, how products are made and the fear consumers have that they are simply being marketed to. . Knowing what’s in their product and learning how to read a label has become a top priority for consumers who are now buying with a digital driven mindset. According to a survey by Label Insight, 46% of consumers admit to using a smartphone to research product information in-store, with as many as 56% of Millennials admitting to doing so. With the arrival of Gen Z in the marketplace, future waves of consumers are more likely to be receptive to a clean approach to Beauty.

 
Photo - Lawrson Pinson / Unsplash

Photo - Lawrson Pinson / Unsplash

 

They are also less likely to respond to greenwashing, thanks to self-empowering digital tools and a new access to information. Especially given the rise in availability of label deciphering apps for smartphones such as Clean Beauty, Yuka, , 화해(Hwahae),  Inci Beauty, Pharmapocket, CosmEthics, Healthy Living or Beat the Microbead, all designed to break down what products actually contain.

So, according to the apps what are the clean rules?

Here is the thing: “clean” is more about what isn’t in the product rather than what is. Think: a policy of including “no nasties”, or in other words, beauty enemies including chemicals and artificial ingredients. Just like new French Beauty brand Seasonly puts it in its motto “the skin you want, minus the ingredients you might not.”

THE BEAUTY BRANDS DEFINING CLEAN BEAUTY

While some ingredients are banned for use in beauty products (more so in Europe than in the US), the legal definition of clean is still very much up for debate. All the same, clean usually means that a product is made in a safe lab using non-toxic ingredients, is made mindfully, free from synthetic materials and has been enriched with specially sourced ingredients. This is where indie brands thrive, as by virtue of having a small staff who can produce small batches, they are more likely to be perceived as clean beauty labels.

For clean brands, giving their own precise definition of what they consider to be “Clean Beauty” is key in their manifesto. Goop, one of the leaders in the clean movement writes:

“At Goop, we are creating a new standard of beauty. Clean, for us, is quite intense: It means a non-toxic product that is made without a long, ever-evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects from hormone disruption, to cancer, to plain-old skin irritation. To name just a few: parabens, phthalates, PEGs, ethanolamines, chemical sunscreens, synthetic fragrance, BHT, BHA.

 
Credit: courtesy of Goop

Credit: courtesy of Goop

 

Tata Harper, one of the founding mother of the trend back in 2010, takes non-toxicity and traçeability to heart. “Every single product we make is a Complex Formula. We pack the most ingredients at the highest levels of concentration to deliver maximum results—without a single drop of artificial chemicals.” As such, the brand declares all of its products to be free from GMO, toxins, fillers, artificial colors, artificial fragrances and synthetic chemicals. Today, the Tata Harper brand is recognized as one of the most successful premium clean brands, boasting sales approaching $68 million dollars (source: WWD).

 
Photo credits: @_seasonly

Photo credits: @_seasonly

 

FROM CLEAN RETAILERS TO MAINSTREAM RETAILERS’ SHIFT TO CLEAN

In the US, The Detox Market is a pioneer within the clean movement and a major actor in all things green beauty. Its focus has always been discovering and incubating new brands, and in showcasing brand founders’ stories that reflect a passion for non-toxic beauty choices. The retailer took a “safety pledge” promising to only sell products that are free from the banned ingredients featured on a comprehensive, continuously updated list that includes most parabens, synthetic fragrances, PEGS and petrochemicals -- among others.

Credo, the other big player in the Clean Beauty game, first started in 2015 in San Francisco and now boasts more than 8 shops and shops/spa across the US. The retailer displays a “dirty list” of toxic ingredients on its website, including aluminium powder, EDTA, petrolatum, paraffin, phthalates, colorants, glycols, lanolin, keratin etc.

Another shining example, the new kid on the Manhattan block, is Follain, a company which cultivates deep relationships with women, offers customers package-free options (such as refillable soaps) and a slew of clean alternatives via niche brands including French Girl, Osea, Rahua, Pai and Tata Harper. The retailer even goes as far as to claim that “less than 20% of cosmetics ingredients have been tested for safety”, with an impressive list of restricted ingredients.

Mainstream retailers in the US have also joined the clean beauty movement via initiatives such as the “Clean at Sephora” label. With this label, the retail giant promises to curate “clean stuff only”, under the motto “the beauty you want, minus the ingredients you might not.” This applies to products free from sulfates, SLS and SLES, parabens, formaldehyde, mineral oils, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban. They also pledge that products will contain less than one percent synthetic fragrance. 

 
Photo credits: @thedetoxmarket

Photo credits: @thedetoxmarket

 

While Clean beauty is becoming mainstream in the USA, Europe and Asia trends are more towards “natural beauty” and “green beauty”.

 In France, le Printemps Department store just opened a « Green Market », a beauty corner dedicated to natural and sustainable beauty. In Japan, Cosme-Kitchen has become the "Natural & Organic” retailer with several point of sales featuring Japanese and international beauty brands.  

In a nutshell, the emergence of Green Beauty is worldwide, becoming more premiumized, and is the beginning of a mainstream movement that will impact the future of beauty: a safe, reassuring yet highly sensorial new chapter of Clean Beauty is underway.

Want to know more about clean beauty? Not only has The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency just released a new Skincare Edition of its US trend report, but it will be hosting the "Rise of the Natural & Clean Movement" roundtable discussion at the upcoming Makeup In L.A. conference. For a copy of Beauty Focus on Clean Beauty, prices and conditions, feel free to contact the agency.

TOP 5 BEAUTY TRENDS for 2019 (and beyond)

Credits: Kevin O Connor

Credits: Kevin O Connor

What newness is thriving in the Beauty industry? Get ahead of the game with these 5 hot prospective Beauty trends.

  1. AUGMENTED INCLUSIVENESS

 
Credits: Fenty Beauty

Credits: Fenty Beauty

 

Greater diversity in the form of “all inclusive” products has been one of the biggest movements in the industry, especially in 2018, at the same time the hashtag #blacklivesmatter boomed on social media. The success story of Fenty by Rihanna has opened the eyes of the industry of a change in society, and the tremendous success of the line revealed the business potential of extended color shades.

This “Fentyfication” of the Beauty world took the Beauty world by storm and the body positive lingerie line, Savage x Fenty, might do the same for the body-diversity cause. Now the heritage brands are moving to 40, 50 or 60 shades, with a growing interest for undertones to achieve the best match of tone(cold with blue, pink and red, warm with yellow and gold or neutral, with a mix of both).

What’s next in 2019 (and beyond)?:

So, what’s the next move for inclusiveness? More sophistication is on the horizon thanks to new products: inclusive lipsticks (Mented), inclusive concealers (the Power Play Full Coverage Concealer par Cover FX, available in 30 shades with 4 undertone options, and the 50 shades of Concealers at Fenty) or inclusive blushes like Glossier’s variety of Cloud Paint.

Beyond skin color, brands are expected to address a greater variety of inclusivity - genderless, ageless, sizeless - the “traditional” norms have gone out the window and singularity becomes the standard. A small indie revolution that has now affected legacy brands and caused a real disruption in luxury beauty as seen in Givenchy’s first genderless makeup line launched in January 2019.

2. SPIRITUAL WELLNESS

Credits : Odacité

Credits : Odacité

After years of active wear and sports-friends cosmetics, now is the time for a gentler take on healthiness. Consumers aspire to wellness, bliss, as the new face of the wellness trend. Beauty seeks balance and self-awareness, with the rise of new centers of self-care like meditation, sound yoga, Ayurveda, crystal healing and ASMR (hello beauty brands Odacité and Rollonjade). Wellness is no longer a segment but a 4.2 billion industry with a +12,8% growth in 2 years according to the Global Wellness Institute. A shining example: star ingredient CBD that improves skin through relaxation properties, and regenerating natural practices to optimize night time and sleep (Have you heard of Moon Dinners or Nap Spaces).

“What’s interesting is that the very true vision of Beauty has changed: it is no longer just a topical. It is something that comes from within…an inner glow obtained through a holistic routine including healthy food, relaxation, new forms of meditation or yoga, sleep etc. This means that brands need to think beyond the jar, and propose a more lifestyle approach.” deciphers Leïla Rochet, founder of the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency.

What’s next in 2019 (and beyond)?:

The market will evolve towards a new augmented wellness. The semantics of efficiency will be replaced by claims expressing gentleness, softness, with terms like “relax” to translate a strong action on the skin (ex: Murad - Revitalixir Recovery Line). Night care will get livelier than ever with the renewed importance of sleep, and makeup will carry “Zen” properties (ex: Milk Kush line).

3. ENHANCED SKIN

Credits: Glossier

Credits: Glossier

Nourish rather than decorate”: we deciphered the “skin up” trend in one of our top 2018 articles. This trend is still vibrant in 2019, with bolder moves. Think enhanced skin rather than photoshopped skin. Overdone looks, heavy contouring and lavish self-portraits are no longer trendy and have been replaced by flattering natural looks with creative touches like glitter strokes of foil-like finishes. Skin up is an art, mixing makeup and skincare, stroke by stroke, to reveal naturalness.

In the US, the number one Beauty market in the world, the dynamics of the market is no longer makeup, but skincare, revealing a new era of beauty focused on skin quality.

What’s next in 2019 (and beyond)?:

“Healthy” looks will continue to trend, with new generation of skincare products infused with makeup properties like smoothing, perfecting, plumping. Keep an eye on: nomad multi-use or perfecting sticks (like Glossier’s hit Zit Stick) and a new generation of hybrids - skin tints, moisturizing highlighters or perfecting mists.

4. INSIDE OUT ZERO WASTE

Credits: Sylvie Tittel

Credits: Sylvie Tittel

Brands continue to increase their efforts to reduce non-recyclable waste and create glamorous biodegradable alternatives for packs, ingredients or components like glitters or scrubs particles. According to Zero Waste’s study, the Beauty market generates more than 120 billions of single packs, most of them being non reusable. Plastics are at the core of these preoccupations as the European Parliament recently approved a ban on single-use plastics such as straws, plates or cutlery. The US also made a great move with Hawaii banning harmful solar filters in 2018 to protect marine biodiversity.

What’s next in 2019 (and beyond)?:

Additional efforts of preserving the environment will continue as consumers look for more sustainable alternatives, and even more for the GenZ. A recent international study by Unilever showed that a third of consumers (33%) choose brands that are good for both society and the environment. Zero waste initiatives will continue to grow as several YouTubers have participated in zero-waste challenges, and new retailers move to package free products (ex New York first Package Free Shop). One of the key beauty pioneers of this movement is Lush, launching mineral-based glitter and pack-free shops in Berlin and Milan.

5. FAKE’UP IS THE NEW MAKE’UP

Credits: Kim Carpenter

Credits: Kim Carpenter

Fake accessories are no longer a synonym of tackiness in 2019. Fake lashes, fake nails and other bold accessories have literally exploded on the Beauty market, with a +30% growth of fake lashes in the US (Source: NPD).

No longer reserved for nights out, fake accessories are on the contrary a way of giving an edgy touch to a natural look.

What’s next in 2019 (and beyond)?:

New fake accessories will be part of the innovative options for brands, especially indie brands. Lash-friendly and extension-friendly treatments will certainly grow as well (Lash+Brow Shampoo by BeautyGarde) and, just like in Asia, mascara made for fake lashes for an even more creative look.

The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Agency, specialist of the Beauty world, just launched its latest Inspiration Makeup USA trend book. Interested? Feel free to contact the agency.

WHO IS THE NEW KOREAN GEN Z?

giorgio-encinas-781623-unsplash.jpg


K-Gen Zers are more than just a young extension of K-Millennials. This new generation is now entering the market with its own codes and habits, setting new trends and reshaping the Beauty world.

THE BEAUTY FACTORY OF NEW TEEN IDOLS

If we’ve learnt something in 20 years of K-pop, it’s that Korea is a pro when it comes to creating teen idols. A generation born (more or less) after 1995, inventing whole new codes.

Shining example: back in 2016, the survival musical Survival Produce 101 had launched two major bands, a girls band, I.O.I (which no longer exists) and the still trending boys band Wanna One. Two world famous bands where Beauty brands freely picked up their K-muses.

Singer Kim Do Yeon, 20 years old, thus became the new face of Maybelline Korea and one of the biggest teen influencers on social media.

Kim Do Yeon / Credits : Maybelline

Kim Do Yeon / Credits : Maybelline

Same for Park Jihoon who, at only 19, became the male face of Etude House and  Innisfree.

Park Jihoon for the lipbalm Innisfree x Wanna One

Park Jihoon for the lipbalm Innisfree x Wanna One

The famous girl band Twice (1.2 billions for their first EP),  is taking Asia by storm and is featured in fashion brands and magazines like Cosmo Korea. They have collaborated with numerous cosmetics and fashion brands, and called their latest album Twicetagram.

Credits : Kpop Fashion

Credits : Kpop Fashion

New phenomenon: inclusivity had made an appearance in the Land of Morning Calm. Mixed race teen influencers are joining the game, led by Nigerian-Korean model Han Hyun Min, 17 years old, very first afro model who ever walked Korean runways. He was nominated as one of the Time’s 30 most influential teens. He has appeared in many TV programs talking about empowerment for multiracial kids growing up in Korea. A tiny revolution in a country where fair skin was still the norm until today. 

Han Hyun Min / Credits: AfroNews Germany

Han Hyun Min / Credits: AfroNews Germany

THE GEN ZERS BRANDS

Influenced by K-pop idols and beauty vloggers, Gen Z tends to go for more affordable beauty products. They will choose easy and fast beauty brands such as Peripera, AprilSkin or A’pieu. Drugstore retailers seem to understand these new aspects.

New kid on the block PRPL Pretty Please is all pop and pink, definitely targeting the youth with their liquid glosses, powders, customizable packs with heart-shaped stickers, and bento-shaped cushions.

Credits: Pretty Please

Credits: Pretty Please

In 2017, Daiso and 7eleven started to sell the beauty collection named 0720. This brand was created in collaboration with the beauty guru, Jiwan Go, and 1,000 teenagers. The brand minimized harmful ingredients and lowered the average price. With student friendly retailers and affordable prices, 0720 wants to make itself accessible to teen students. 

Passionate by the world of Beauty, the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency publishes a What’s Up Seoul Report twice a year, deciphering Korean trends. Want to know more? Contact the agency.

 

 

SKIN UP IS THE NEW MAKEUP

Credits: @Taylor Hernandez

Credits: @Taylor Hernandez

“Nourish rather than decorate” could be the motto of this new trend celebrating perfect complexion through skincare - replacing covering makeup routines.

With her pledge to #NoMakeup, Alicia Keys was one of the very early adopters in 2016 when she boldly appeared barefaced on the cover of Here. Legend says that her photographer Paola Kudacki saw her getting off the gym with her post-workout glow, and convinced her not to wear makeup.

AN ART AS SOPHISTICATED AS MAKEUP

A bareface revolution? Not quite. Because just like the Nude trend back in the 2000’s, “SkinUp” relies on a strict routine and a massive work on complexion. Dotti, the “no makeup” makeup artist behind Key’s looks deciphered the process back in this WMagazine article.

According to her, this global lifestyle includes clean nutrition, lots of sleep, lots of working out, no alcohol, heaps and heaps of moisturizing masks (and grated raw cucumber), cold roll-on treatments and pure face oils (especially Jojoba).

And, just like the Nude look, a lot of makeup, applied with precision, with subtle tints, fake lashes added in brows and faux freckles.

Credits: RCA/Paola Kudacki

Credits: RCA/Paola Kudacki

A QUEST FOR SINGULARITY

Since 2016, the art of “SkinUp” has become a hot subject, becoming the main look for Gen Z and Indie Brands, mostly famous with the brand Glossier and its “skin that looks like skin” motto.

The new quest for inclusiveness made room for more mixity in skin and hair, a celebration of skin disparities (freckles, lines, vitiligo) and singularities. Insta brand Freck even launched the very first faux-freckle ink.

Credits: Instagram @freck

Credits: Instagram @freck

Faces are bare, highly dewy, with rosy glossy cheeks and full brows (#glowyskin = 271 000 publications on Instagram).

Credits: Instagram @glossier

Credits: Instagram @glossier

“The recent boom of tints and concealers is very revealing on what “SkinUp” is” deciphered Leïla Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “Young generations build up their complexion with little strokes, on face’s strategic points, letting their disparities and freckles shine rather than covering them with foundation. New concealers are generally enriched with perfecting and hydrating agents, and help build this very natural finish.”

Just like star brand Glossier puts is “Skin first. Makeup second”, or “skin that looks like skin.”

Credits : The Grayscale

Credits : The Grayscale

“Skin Up” is visible in market’s latest numbers as shown by NPD. The skincare category grew its sales by 15 percent in Q3 to reach to $1.3 billion , though makeup’s growth rate was at +1 percent.

New hybrid makeup products are also deeply infused with skincare to achieve dewy skin, like Flesh’s Fleshpot Eye & Cheek Gloss. A face gloss inspired by Fashion shows to let the light hit eyelids, cheekbones and brows. Same approach for Josh Rosebrook’s Hydrating Accelerator, a mist that enhances the hydrating powers of any moisturiser.

Credits: fleshbeauty.com

Credits: fleshbeauty.com

Kiwie brand Skin by Ecostore went one step further with the #ThisisMe campaign, showing their founders and fans barefaced on Instagram, wearing only their skincare products.

Credits : Instagram @skinbyecostore

Credits : Instagram @skinbyecostore

Is Skin Up the end of makeup? Probably not- however, it shows consumers increasingly chose naturalness, singularity, as well as a growing fusion between skincare and makeup. It is also the reflexion of a society driven by Wellness. But the final quest still remain: showing perfect skin.

Skin Up is part of the Skincare Innovation trend-report by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. Interested? Contact the agency. 

TOP TRENDS FROM THE LONDON INDIE BEAUTY EXPO

Credits: @Cosmetics Inspiration Creation

Credits: @Cosmetics Inspiration Creation

From mindful skincare to male grooming, the Indie Beauty Expo and its 80 exhibitors shook the habits of the London Old Truman Brewery on October 24 & 25.

Cashing in on its success overseas, the American Indie Beauty Expo made its European debut with a hot London edition next to street art neighbourhood, Brick Lane, on October 24 and 25. This was the 10th edition for the exhibition born in 2015, before its next stop in Berlin in March.

The event highlighted “indie brands”, the little bombs of creativity that disrupted the market in a record time, invaded Instagram, and became a real economy for shows and investors. In the USA, non-traditional brands have robbed 55% of the prestige market growth and earned (so easily) the trust of Millennial consumers.

 
Photo Credit: Max Andrey

Photo Credit: Max Andrey

 

“We never had a grand vision to change the industry,commented Nader Naeymi-Rad, cofounder of Indie Beauty Media Group. “We started with a need and that helped open our eyes to this incredible market that’s been booming.

Professionals, brand creators, influencers, journalists, retailers and other beauty aficionados had 48h to get to know the new paradigms of this niche market. Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation was invited at the event where we had the pleasure of speaking with the “indie” founders.

 
A very indie aspirational quote.  Photo Credits: @Cosmetics Inspiration Creation

A very indie aspirational quote.

Photo Credits: @Cosmetics Inspiration Creation

 

During the two day event, 4 major trends emerged, structuring the indie brands London Collection.

  1. BEAUTY MINDFULNESS

A wellness wind is blowing on indie brands, with new whole steps, good for both body and soul. The "crystal-infused”trend is still raging, with brands such as Balipura, available in wellness & yoga centers, and its energy harmonising auric sprays, encompassing the ancient and magical healing spirit of Bali.

Balipura auric sprays. Credits: @Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Balipura auric sprays. Credits: @Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

 

Baljinder Kaur, creator of Adarci, was inspired by her grandmother’s values: the great importance of inner-connectedness. She explained that “The word "adarci" or in punjabi "ardas", means the yearning for a deeper, more harmonious connection”.

Herbal Dynamics takes the same “mindful'“ approach by harnessing the power of plant-based ingredients, while the lunar Kiss The Moon specializes in night products based on aromatherapy blends to restaure a beautiful sleep.

 
Kiss the Moon - Credits: @Cosmetics Inpirations Creation

Kiss the Moon - Credits: @Cosmetics Inpirations Creation

 

2. ARTY ETHICS

 With an increasing 43% of consumers saying they would consider a brand’s ethical stance before purchasing it (Source: Mintel Natural, Organic and Ethical Toiletries), good behaviour has become a crucial KPI on the market.

The London event gathered a lot of indies mixing aesthetics and ethics, a perfect combination for beauty aficionados. Shining example: the Kiwi Girls Undiscovered, one of our indie crushes, a"100% wild &naturally sourced" brand built on an exquisite packaging and a strong communication take on realness.

The same goes for the very woody palette and kabukis packs by Antonym, and the organic, crystal-infused nail polishes by the Madrid-based Handmade Beauty.

In a more naïve and colourful universe, The Kind Planet Company offers organic power-balms with beautiful Basquiat-like patterns.

3. CLEAN MAKEUP

Transparent and respectful formulations are at the core of indie values. The 360° clean beauty concept helps indies stand out from the industry without forgetting a glamorous touch. Clean lipsticks were one of the highlights of the Expo, like the ultra-pigmented couture organic lipsticks by Sarya, or the very lustrous vegan Axiology’s goodies made of mango and many oils: coconut, ricin, avocado, grapefruit seeds and Candalila wax (an alternative to beeswax.)

Complexion wise, the French inclusive Belle Radiance presented its AquaMat foundation (15 shades) formulated with 60% water and 85% natural ingredients. Created by Aimara Coupet, an expert in inclusive beauty and one of the Agency’s co-speaker in various events, the line allows a great finish without any silicone! We wish her the best!

Created by Canadian MakeUp artist Jo-Ann Fowler, Sappho went ahead and announced “a new paradigm” with certified organic collections, infused with phytonutrients.

4. MIX IN, STAND OUT

The art of layering is back thanks to indies eager to break down formulas for more transparency and create new step-by-step rituals. This more participative vision of Beauty assures sourcing and gives consumers full control over skincare.

The two new fragrances by British Awake Organics can be worn together or separately, depending on one’s mood as they are enriched with "mood-enhancing herbs". With a "mix in, stand out" philosophy, Emulsion offers to build one’s truly personal blend in 4 steps: a base, an exfoliant, a fragrance and a drop of illuminating essential blend, to mix and match according to one’s needs.

Finally, the natural and minimalistic capsule collection of Alex Carro counts 5 different products that can be mixed for a tailor-made cosmetic ritual.

The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency, specialized in the Beauty world, attended the Indie Beauty Expo October 24 and 25.

For a full report on the Exhibition or for the latest Indie Beauty Report feel free to contact the agency.



THE RISE OF J-BEAUTY - FROM JAPAN TO THE WORLD

Credits -@florianpagano

Credits -@florianpagano

Once overshadowed by Korea, its disruptive nemesis, Japan rises again as a center of attention. Sensoriality, high quality and technological all capture the essence of the J-Beauty renaissance.

ONE OF THE BIGGEST BEAUTY MARKETS IN THE WORLD

In France, 2018 stands for “Japonism”. The two countries officially celebrate their diplomatic relations as well as a the commemoration of the Meiji era’s 150th birthday, an era often perceived in Japan’s history as the opening towards the West.

Beauty-wise, one of the big event in Paris was the Cosmetic 360° on October 17 & 18, with an entire corner dedicated to J-Beauty. Visitors could interact with brands such as Shiseido and agencies such as Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Enjoying its rank as the world’s second beauty market (Source: Euromonitor), Japan firmly emerges as one of tomorrow’s most promising luxury markets, with annual Beauty expenditures estimated at 22M$.

THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN RISES WITH RESILIENCE

"With brands like Sony, Panasonic or Toyota, Japan has always been a leader in innovation", deciphers Leïla Rochet, founder of the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency.

"Designers like Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Kansai Yamamoto or Comme des Garçons literally built style in the 80’s. During a flourishing economical period called the Bubble Economy, all luxury brands were investigating Japan as a source of innovation. The culture there was also perceived as atypical and fascinating - which made it even more attractive.

Today, we are witnessing a J-Style renaissance, especially in design, fashion and beauty. Japan’s DNA echoes with today’s consumers quest for purpose, naturalness, sophistication and modernity. Propelled by a strong creativity of Japanese designers and beauty brands, the J-Style is truly contemporary ”. 

J-BEAUTY, A LABEL FOR EXCELLENCE

Now called "J-Beauty", 3.0 Japanese cosmetics have made their way in the market. Whether it’s native Japanese brands, Japanese-influenced brands or “Made in Japan” brands, the “J-label’, just like the French touch, is a highly attractive one - certifying both quality and technology.

American brand Tatcha, for instance, an indie skincare brand inspired by the Geisha of Japan, is one of the fastest growing skincare brands in the US. According to Tribedynamics, the brand is one of the most visible skincare brands on social media. In September 2018, Tatcha was at the top spot in EMV (Earned Media Value) in the US skincare category, +79 percent growth compared to 2017).

After having introduced its innovative skincare products to Millennials in 2O17 with the Waso line, legacy J-brand Shiseido presented its new makeup line during the Cosmetic 360° event. Minimalistic and visionary, this new collection with a strong edge perfectly encapsulates J-Beauty’s new rise.

Lindsay Azpitarte, EMEA Regional Brand Vice President, deciphered the “J-Beauty signature” strategy by Shiseido, drawn for the brand’s very core, with 3 founding concepts:
-The “Wa”, harmony expressed through minimalistic boldness.  

- The Ma”which means intuition - where what’s visible is as important as what’s invisible, explaining the high-tech ergonomics of the packs.

- The “Kensei”, or sensitivity, expressed through the extreme sensoriality of formulas and textures, and the highly artistic touch in the line’s communication.

Shiseido’s business is expanding. Japan’s largest cosmetic company announced their nine-month net sales were up by 10.2 percent to 805.76 billion yen (Source WWD).

PURE TECHNOLOGY x SENSORIALITY

The highly innovative and disruptive textures, as found in the sliding VisionAiry Gel Lipstick or the cloudy-like Minimalist Whipped Powder Blush, come in pared-down black packs with a simple red line. Claiming themselves as “the thinnest in the world”, this new Shiseido line definitely show J-Beauty’s pure technology mixed with sensoriality.

 
Credits: @Shiseido

Credits: @Shiseido

 

The technology of precision lies at the heart of Japanese skincare culture, as mentioned during the event’s roundtable.

“I was very moved by Jean Claude Le Joliff’s [founder of Inn2cintervention” says Aida Lisea, technical expert at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “Modern J-Beauty truly puts high technology and high quality above everything else. The frame of work is to extract millennial, traditional ingredients and infuse them with innovation. There’s this idea of continuously creating the same things, but in such a more modern and advanced way.”

When facing a “fun and disruptive” Korea, is J-Beauty choosing the high-end path? If things aren’t that simple, one can’t ignore the renewed excellence found in J-brands ingredients and textures.

WELLNESS, SHITTORI AND SUPERFOOD

Worldwide, consumers are currently on a quest for alternative lifestyles, centered around wellness and healthy living, two concepts where Japan can easily claim to be expert.

 

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After the wave of the Danish hygge, wabi-sabi or the art of "imperfection-perfection" aims for a simpler sophistication, where humility and contemplation are invitations to introspection. In Beauty, Wabi-sabi translates into minimalistic aesthetics, a search for singularity, and a certain “less is more” philosophy.

Obsessed with its Nature, Japan has become famous for its raw and powerful ingredients, used in day-to-day food and overall care. Authentic and rare, these ingredients target the young perfectly. The invasion of matcha tea and its Insta-worthy bright green is a good example.

Whether raw or fermented, J-brands extract or reinvent other noble items such as saké, miso, ginger, cotton silk or kombu leaves to create a fresh, indie, and superfood-infused skincare like ShiroThree CosmeticsSekkisei or Tatcha.

SHITTORI IS THE NEW CHOK CHOK

Just like the Korean chok chok skin, the famous glass-like translucent complexion, the Japanese shittori skin has made its way on Millennials #skingoals. As complex as the word umami, shittori describes a light yet "sappari" texture, which means luscious and hydrated, as well as highly "uruoi", glowy and glossy.

The shittori aspect is mainly used in fooding, best describes the texture of the famous mochi cakes, for instance.
Japanese Supplier, Daito Kasei, explained during the conference on the future of J-Beauty, how they mainly work on formulations and concepts translating the sensorial and complex shittori effect.

The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency, specializing in Beauty, the curator and animator of the J-Beauty corner during the Cosmetic 360 event. The agency created many trend-books and reports on J-Beauty, and has visited Japan twice in 2018 to go trend hunting. For more informations, feel free to contact the agency.




HOW "INDIE BRANDS" ARE DISRUPTING THE BEAUTY LANDSCAPE

Credits: @cosmeticseeds - at Riley Rose LA

Credits: @cosmeticseeds - at Riley Rose LA

Combine beauty hackers with bombs of creativity, and you get “indie brands”. Find out how these disruptors drive the beauty market today, seriously challenging the future of legacy brands.

How does one spot an indie brand? “They are hard to miss” says Leïla Rochet, founder of trends agency Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “Indie brands, or independent brands, are reinventing the rules of traditional cosmetics with new textures, gestures, products, as well as brand new ways of communicating.”

AN “INDIE MOVEMENT” LED BY A SOCIETY SHIFT

Beauty and society have always worked hand in hand. “Our contemporary era has led to the upsurge of the Indies. ” explains Leïla Rochet. Looking back to history, beauty has experienced three important stages throughout the last century. Back in the 20th century, consumers sought inclusion among the elites which led to the upsurge of emblematic luxury brands such as Chanel, Dior or Estée Lauder. In the 80s, the influence fashion and supermodels caused the rise of makeup artists brands (Mac in 1984 or Bobbi Brown in the 90’s), and backstage became the epicenter of style. Today, we live in a fragmented society widely shaped by social media, the explosion of indie brands is driven by a quest for disruption (Milk MakeupGlossierKate Von D or the K-star Pony Effect). “These influences have built an incredible market, more segmented, where each brand now has its legitimacy but where the rules are modified”.

“In small we trust” is the new sign of the times: consumers will more likely trust smaller brands, and have become “explorer-consumers”, eager to discover and share new talents.

THE 3 COMMANDMENTS OF INDIE BRANDS

1. DIGITAL INVADERS, THOU SHALT BE


In the US, 20 cosmetic brands capture 90% of the dollars going to brick-and-mortar retailers, and those same companies capture just 14% share online (Source Nielsen). This number that speaks volumes on how indie brands manage to shine online thanks to massive sales and branding strategies."A good example: the brand Glossier. Born from an online media, Into the Gloss, became immediately successful because it match with consumers’insights at at the right moment" deciphers Leïla Rochet.

Indie brands have found the perfect combination to target “Beauty Natives”. Indeed, 74% of Millennials and 80% of Instagram Gen Zers say social media impact their shopping habits (source: Yes Lifestyle Marketing Report). This generation uses Beauty as an empowerment tool for their personal branding.

2. BEAUTY HACKING, THOU SHALT DO

The big difference with institutional brands? Indie brands dare, and they dare to create fast, especially in niche segments without interest for legacy brands. The new rules? “There are no rules, as indie brands reinvent them” explained Jennifer Ritter*. With new gestures (the wave of stone-roll-ons or Gua Sha tools), disruptive textures, avant-garde packaging (cf flower inside), they truly innovate on the market. Their small structure also allows them to grow and innovate even faster.

Moreover, their inspiration draws directly from consumers thanks to social media, like the last collab Asos X Crayola inspired by the (unsafe) beauty hacking trend of Crayola makeup. Indeed, indie brands’ innovation power is twofold: they are trend creators when they take the Web by storm with their new products. They are also trend hunters when they transform online trends into concrete products.

Just like in fooding, Indies have taken the “mono-product” trendy path. They can create their whole brand around one concept and one product only (hello faux-freckles ink by the Insta brand Freck), hacking the traditional “complete beauty line” process (100% lipstick brand like Lipstick Lobby or 100% glitters by Lemonhead.)

3. AN AUTHENTIC CONNECTION, THOU SHALT CREATE

Whether they are LGBTQ-friendly, feminist, organic or cruelty-free, indie brands are tribe creators, with either a political claim or simply overindulging in a hedonist lifestyle. Their small size allows for more intimacy and to stand out from the big players in the industry. Transparency and authenticity are at their very core, which contributes to them creating a relationship of trust and an authentic connection with consumers, a connection amplified by the realness of their influencers-ambassadors and their hyperactive social medias.

In the “natural tribe”, it’s raining brands: the Aussie botanic Black Chicken Remedies, the pack free milk goat soap raw bars by Indie Goat Soap, or the CBD infused balms by Cannabliss Organic.

“In a nutshell, the key to the success of Indie brands truly lies in their capacity to generate much more than products. They embody, true lifestyles, and authentic connections carried by strong personalities. Friendly brands, intimate brands, with desirable products that are an invitation to sharing,” concludes Leïla Rochet.


The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency, beauty trends hunter, presented Indie Beauty: Between Fascination and Disruption during the last Makeup In Paris event ( this article is a lighter version). The team has developed several studies for clients in this field. More about this trend? Or about the agency’s quotations and latest projects? Contact us.


www.inspiration-creation.com

* Special thanks to our US partner, Jennifer Ritter who co-hosted a session with our team on Indies in the MakeUp in Los Angeles and New York and inspired our work on Indies

top 4 KEY SUCCESS FACTORS OF AUSTRALIAN BRANDS

Credits : Chris Nguyen

Credits : Chris Nguyen

What if innovation came from the other side of the world? Just a few years ago, model Miranda Kerr and apothecary brand Aesop already aroused the curiosity of beauty hunters. Only a hop away from us (24 hours in plane), the biggest island on Earth is invading the Beauty market with disruptive products, and scoring a perfect 10 when it comes to aiming gen X, Y and Z. What’s their special recipe for success? Here’s 4 keys to understand what is driving the new explorer-consumer towards South Pacific brands.

1. NATURAL AND CRUELTY-FREE BEFORE IT WAS COOL

Naturalness is no longer a segment or an option - it is a driving force of all industries including the beauty industry. Whatever shape it may take (sustainable, local, organic, cruelty-free etc.), rising indie brands are clearly taking a stand. A challenge for legacy brands who are now joining the race for authenticity, and adapting their sourcing towards more respect. Will the market reach 100% “natural” in the near future? An ideal difficult to reach today, however aussies and kiwis brands have always carried “naturalness” in their DNA.

“What’s happening is Australian brands perfectly match consumers’ expectations, and thus just by being themselves” explains Leïla Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. “Exceptional natural landscapes, rare ingredients, transparency, ethics, empathy…Australia simply is in tune with the trends that are shaping 2018.” True story: Aesop was already cruelty-free in 1987. Dozens of aussie brands are now strongly established in the vegan game, such as Original Mineral (O&M)Grown AlchemistSukin or the famous Bondi Sand

2. “OCEANIC STORYTELLERS” : ENDEMIC INGREDIENTS AND TELLURIC LANDSCAPES

With their exceptional landscapes, and the great distance that separates them from Western continents, Australia and New-Zealand inspire both fantasies and phobias. Dangerous nature (hello deadly snakes), gorgeous volcanic sceneries, mirror lakes, untouched jungle (hello Tasmania), and red, black or white deserts…The narrative potential is great, and source its inspirations in an unseen and original botany. In this universe, ingredients are native and endemic, synonyms of precious rareness, and are even more fascinating as they usually come from maoris and aborigines legacies. A heritage made of pacific salts, papaya, rosehip or kiwi seed oil, manuka honey, Rotorua mud, Kaolin clay, lanolin oil (fatty acids from sheep’s wool), and many more. As Skin by Ecostore puts it: the actives in Pacific products are supposed to be the more effective in the world. Asarai, gender-neutral brand, claims to only use local products, made from the Kakadu plum, famous to fight inflammation.

Online, the Australian Pink Clay Flash Perfection Exfoliating Treatment by Sand & Sky, a scrub enriched in the famous Australian pink clay, had more than 11000 buyers on a waiting list. In a very “Millennial Pink” style, Alya Skin also launched a pink mask made with kaolin clay, aloe vera and pomegranate.

3. AUSSIE BEAUTY: A "RAW" CALIFORNIAN

New icon on the block, the “Australian” woman is taking the Beauty world by storm, as a wilder version of the Californian - “Crocodile Dundee” style.

Showing off golden wavy post-surf-sesh hair and a perfect all-year tan, the aussie beauty is now a must-have look during the summer season. Body is at the center of this aesthetic, always impeccably tanned and athletic, thanks to Australian outdoor sports (surf and tramping). The notion of wilderness is part of the universe, even though sophisticated urbanity is still strong thanks to iconic places like Bondi Beach.

4. THE AUSSIE TAN : A NEW SENSO-PERFORMING TWIST

In this context, fake-tan products are key and have boomed on international markets, thanks to new disruptive and senso-performing textures. In Australia, “tanning” is never the only goal, and most fake-tan products also carry many properties: anti-age, anti-acne, moisturising, firming, energising etc.

A “winter tan” will be achieved with cruelty free options such as the Winter Skin Moisturizer by  Eco Tan, the no makeup perfection is made with self tanners, like the perfecting toner Face Tan Water by Eco Tan (huge on Instagram), and the instant Instagram-filter effect is perfected by products such as the  Tan&Go by the very Millennial brand Selfie

Still on a “natural” note, body products claim disruptive textures, like the Skinny Tan Tan & Oil with coconut oil and guarana for toning and moisturising, a “tanning" balm” with the James Read Gradual Tan Coconut Melting Balm Face & Body, the cacao firming foam Eco Tan Cacao Firming Mousse (vegan, cruelty, organic), or the very sensorial Endota Spa Organics Lilly Pilly & Lime Gradual Tanner.

You liked this article ? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency deciphers the latest innovations around the Bauty world. Contact the agency, follow it on Instagram and twitter.


#TRENDALERT. "INSTACEPTION": WHEN REALITY TAKES OVER VIRTUALITY

In a digital, selfie-ready society, reality and virtuality keep flirting with each other, each one inspiring the other. The latest #instaception hashtag (29 300 mentions) took Instagram by storm, questioning the very notions of realness in the Beauty world. 

 

August 2018 was the "instaception" month on Instagram, the neologism referring to Christopher Nolan famous's movie Inception, a sci-fi tale questioning reality through the overlap of dreams.

How do you #instaception? The aim is to create an optical illusion through a transformist makeup, mostly referring to Instagram, like James Charles's post (@jamescharles). The young influencer drew an Instagram post around his eye, using only makeup. The look is then photographed and posted on Instagram, creating an endless "mirror effect" (or "mise en abyme").

Other influencers have gone further using both makeup and photoshop, and thus overlapping digital and artisanal work.

"There's a constant hacking game between what is real and what is virtual", explains Leïla Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, "both universes tend to infiltrate each other, and are a wonderful resource of creativity for consumers."

Whilst virtuality has invaded our day-to-day life, the Instaception trend shows how reality can take over Instagram, transforming the digital object (a post) into a real one (a makeup look). A trend also driven by the boom of transformist makeups and self-representation.

Is this "realness" fighting back? Or is it the natural evolution of two worlds deeply connected to each other? Good news is creativity is still going strong - IRL, and of course, on Instagram.

 

As part as their prospective research on trends, the Cosmetics Inpiration & Creation agency releases a monthly "Insta Book", with the latest insta-worthy hashtags and looks. Contact us for more informations, and follow @cosmeticseeds on Instagram

 

Wonderland Forever: how glitter, multi-chrome, & unicorn shades are drumming up some serious buzz

 
Sies Marjan AW18, Opening Ceremony x Disney - photo: Dean Podmore

Sies Marjan AW18, Opening Ceremony x Disney - photo: Dean Podmore

 

Unicorn, mermaids, glitter... are true mega-waves that continue to infuse the fashion weeks, insta-influencers and beauty looks. These new exploratory universes evoking childhood fairies but twisted with techno-futuristic are real inspiration for the beauty industry. They lead to new virtual pigments refecting light, new finishes, new claims that infuse all segments from eye colors up to personal cleansing products. 

This is highly "insta-genic" trend initiated by influencers and indie brands is now cascading to legacy brands as well. And the holographic trend seen in the latest fashion weeks at Sies Marjan, Balmain or Maryam Nassir Zadeh is here to stay as it has become also one of the hottest looks of the most iconic fashion designers.

UNICORN FOIL

Milk Makeup

Milk Makeup

Highlighters continue to be one of the most innovative segment in Beauty with shades now playing with light in a more futuristic yet regressive way. Strobing is made with ethereal mystical shades that shift in color and offer a mix of iridescent tones and multiple color effects as if coming out of a fairy tale. 

Too Faced launched its Festival collection with "a high-impact, out-of-this-world festival finish" and a unicorn inspiration. The unicorn holographic finish initiated in 2017 is still hot  and I-finish, "foily" way. 

In hair, the Prism Roots is making a buzz on social media (@kristinacheeseman). Fun Sexy Hair offers Mermaid Glow Getter to get glitter root. Even brush shampoo Ely Maya - Unicorn Brush Shampoo & Conditioner goes unicorn with a green and purple pastel marble aspect and glitter.

 

FAIRY BLUE IS THE NEW PINK

Following the trend of the Millennial Pink, light blue makes a massive come back as the new fairy color, color of serenity, fresh skies and watercolor atmosphere. Seen at the fashion week as one of the key pastel colors for Fall 2018, with a holographic twist - Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Sies Marjan - it is also one of the hit colors for highlighters.

Almay released Make Them Jelly Hi- Lite Mermaid Magic, a jelly highlighter in an iridescent blue shade.

Too Faced - Unicorn Horn

Too Faced - Unicorn Horn

 
Almay Mermaid Magic

Almay Mermaid Magic

Maryam Nassir Zadeh Fall 2018 Image: Imaxtree

Maryam Nassir Zadeh Fall 2018 Image: Imaxtree

At Too Faced, it is Unicorn Horn - Mystical Effects Highlighting Stick, a creamy pearlescent blue gloss finish to add a magic twist to the look. 

GLITTER STATEMENT

Glitters are not only for Coachella anymore! They continue to be hot and indispensable.  During the NYFW, a lot of sparkle highlighted the models’ eyes or face. At Marc Jacobs, pressed glitter stretched across lids; Swarovski crystals on lids and below the brows at Kate Spade; sequins to decorate the eyes at Lanyu; loose gold glitter on a black smoky eye at Carmen Marc Valvo... 

Lemonhead LA

Lemonhead LA

In beauty, brands enjoy playing with glitter, and it infuses every segment.

New indie brands such as Lemonhead LA have become sought after specialist in glitters and praised on social media.  Lemonhead.LA is a prestige, vegan and cruelty-free product line founded by make-up artist Megan Dugan. 

The glitter trend is also infusing the suncare market  with suncreens infused with sparkles - the Unicorn Snot Glitter Sunscreen.

 

Wonderland Forever is an extract from the What's Up MakeUp report - 01/2018 from Cosmetics Inspiration & Inspiration. This is only an extract of this trend as the full article is included in the report. Don't hesitate to contact us for information on the tarifs.

#insights. Beauty & Biodiversity: consumer's awareness is on the rise

Source: istock - PeopleImages

Source: istock - PeopleImages

On June 19, 2018, the UEBT* (Union for Ethical BioTrade) celebrated the 10th year of annual research dedicated to biodiversity awareness and sourcing with respect. Good news: according to their latest numbers, consumers’ awareness towards sustainability is on the rise.

Led in over 16 different countries since 2009 and commissioned by the UEBT, the results of the Biodiversity Barometer have contribute to have contributed to raise awareness amongst companies and organizations all around the world on the importance of biodiversity in our industries. The results of the latest 2018 Biodiversity Barometer (survey in 5 countries, 5000 consumers) speak for themselves: awareness and understanding of biodiversity are globally growing. An increase in the understanding of biodiversity over the past 10 years has been important in all countries. More significantly, consumers expect transparency, proofs and concrete actions from brands are clearly expected by a consumer that is more conscious than ever. Moreover, a massive 80% of consumers feel that "biodiversity conservation is important for their personal well-being", with a strong notion of transmission for generations to come (85%).

Moreover, respecting biodiversity is now fundamentally connected to personal well-being with a massive 80% of consumers feeling that "biodiversity conservation is important for their personal well-being" , with a strong notion of transmission for generations to come (85%).

 

When Personal Involvement Is at Stake

Protecting biodiversity has become important  for consumers as 80% of those surveyed say "it is important for them to personally contribute to conserving biodiversity". Protecting biodiversity has thus become a personal quest as the awareness of this mainstream subject has increased since 2009 with the highest increase occurring among youth (+ 19 points) and among lower earners (+ 13 points).

 
uebt.jpeg
 

A Key Insight: the "Human Factor"

In 2009, our blog, Cosmeticseeds, (French version) underlined the importance of protecting biodiversity, "a diversity of fauna, flora and overall wild life that makes the rich complexity of our ecosystems". The fragile eco-system that needs to be protected from the excesses of our society. Human activities endanger the complex balance – but not only.

What’s at stake here? On one hand, a respectful sourcing from the industry who needs to access ressources without damaging the environment. On the other hand, a mindful sourcing of human "know-hows", which implies respecting local workers as well as their traditional knowledge and expertise. "Developing countries", rich in biodiversity and traditional knowledge, face this major twofold issue.

"Nature inspires Cosmetics thanks to its hedonism", says Leïla Rochet. "But paradoxically, Nature’s ressources are finite. Protecting nature and respecting communities involved with biodiversity are now more and more at the center of consumers’ preoccupations and brands need to get more ethically involved."

Shuttersock - Niphon Kai

Shuttersock - Niphon Kai

 

 

 

 

 

Words Mean Action: The "Walk the Talk" Factor

In our contemporary society, consumers are informed and conscious of the damage done to the environment. Empowered by digital tools and social conversations, consumers show unprecedented expectations towards brands. Educated with tools to detect "green washing" techniques, consumers expect actions that matter more than words. Brands are experiencing a trust crisis, especially in the area of respectful sourcing. The Biodiversity Barometer shows that only 37% of respondents think that companies pay attention to respectful sourcing, dropping to 25% in France.  Today, brands should focus on building trust as consumers expect more transparency and authenticity. 

With internet access at the palm of their hands, consumers can quickly check the brand’s credibility and love to engage with brands that they trust to "do good" . To become a "good" brand, they must behave in such ways that convinces consumers, beyond just words, and through actions.  Meaning ethically, no harm is done to animals (the new "cruelty-free" or "vegan" labels) and respecting the humans involved (fair wages, dignified working conditions, gender equality in the workplace etc.) in a sustainable way and transparent way (origin of ingredients, fair wages, etc.).

A New Collective Humanization: The "Me to We" Factor

This new "me to we", as coined by Anne Bahr Thompson, author of DO GOOD and one of the keynote speaker at the June 19 Conference, is a transition towards an aware consumer, eager to find brands which can improve both the world and global living conditions. " Customers expect brands to truly care about them, their values, and the world at large. People want to see companies engage in fair employment practices, social responsibility, and charitable giving. In addition, they want companies to advocate on their behalf and make them feel that they are part of a larger community or grander mission," explained Anne Bahr Thompson at the UEBT conference. 

The "me to we" doesn’t include sustainability only, but overall wellbeing: 74% of those surveyed say they feel good about buying products that respect people and biodiversity, and 79% feel that companies have a moral obligation to assure that they have a positive impact on people and biodiversity. Finally, a massive 57% say they buy products from companies that respect biodiversity and people.

Presentation of the UEBT Barometer by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency

Presentation of the UEBT Barometer by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency

 

Challenges for Brands, but also Opportunities

Needless to say, the Beauty industry now has to address these upcoming challenges, but this is also the main opportunity for brands to go beyond a natural positioning and become actors of change. Social media provides a unique opportunity for brands to engage with a more involved and conscious consumer and share their progress in an authentic and transparent way. 

The rise of "niche brand" who only 'do good'; as highlighted by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency in its new trend book Freedom Beauty – Inspiration From the USA, might also undermine the position of Legacy brands who need to stay up to date by improving their status on sustainability.

Partners of the UEBT since 2009, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is proud to have worked with the UEBT on the 2018 Biodiversity Barometer’s website conception, interpretation and creation. 

Want to know more? Contact the agency

Discover their latest trend book Freedom Beauty – Inspiration From the USA

*UEBT (Union For Ethical BioTrade) is a non-profit association that promotes sourcing with respect. They support and verify companies’ commitments to innovation and sourcing that contribute to a world in which people and biodiversity thrive.

Their website: www.uebt.org

#USTRENDS. When spirituality infuses cosmetics

Photo Credits: Free People Movement - Facebook

Photo Credits: Free People Movement - Facebook

Wellness is at the very core of skincare trends. Good vibes, stone rollers and crystal-infused formulas are the new anti-age. A trend coming from the wellness temple, California, and slowly cascading on the rest of the US.

A New Way of Life Infuses Beauty

Recently, the power of stones has made a major come back, with an upsurge of appetite for wellness and well-being, as the notion of physical well-being extends now towards mental well-being. 

In an hyperconnected society, the need to disconnect from devices has increased, and the desire to reconnect to oneself has never been so important. The phenomenon of disconnect-reconnect has influenced the travel industry (open air travel), brain-body training,as well as the boom of mindful activities such as yoga or meditation.   

Spirituality & Self-Focus - The New Urban Quest

The concept of spirituality continues to grow, infusing the US from the West Coast in particular, where mindful practices have always been stronger. A wave of millennial-minded meditation venues have spread all over the US, especially in big cities. Stressed-out New Yorkers can become more grounded during their lunch breaks at Be Time, the city’s first meditation bus. Retail wise, mindfulness has gained momentum with virtual reality guided meditation at the new Philosophy's WellBeing store in New Jersey, or meditation during manicure sessions at Sundays. Same goes online with Lululemon's "Mindful Podcast", featuring videos of a seven-day meditation challenge.

 

Photo: Lululemon New York - Pic by Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo: Lululemon New York - Pic by Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

If mindful meditation has been widely embraced in the workplace, it is because the benefits are also instrumental. Indeed, the Buddhism-inspired technique will boost motivation, concentration, resilience and overall productivity. In California, it is not uncommon to find crystals in meeting rooms for positive energy, or collective yoga sessions on the city’s rooftops.

Photo: Facebook - Glaccebottles

Photo: Facebook - Glaccebottles

Herbivore - The Rose Quartz Roller - Facebook

Herbivore - The Rose Quartz Roller - Facebook

In a world centered around work performance, this wave of mindfulness offers other perspectives. It embraces  a new relationship with time, awareness, and self-care to heal both body and mind. Yoga coaches have become today’s new managers, and their work tools include "zen" accessories as well as cosmetics. Facial rollers made of energetic stones are everywhere, like the Facial Roller Jade by Herbivore or the Crystal Facial Workout by Skin Gym. Pure crystals are directly formulated into products such as the Crystal Aura by Hannes Dottir, a face-mask powder that mixes with water, enriched with crystals and marine extracts from Iceland. Pacifica just launched Crystal, a highly gem-infused line of cosmetics and makeup. Moreover, beauty routine turns into a full mystical ritual with the new brand Aquarian Soul that offers jade and amethyst roll ons, body oil enriched with rose quartz or moonstone, and at-home sacred fumigations thanks to herb bouquets.

 

"Good Vibes" Trend

This "good vibes only" outbreak shows no sign of stopping. Coming soon: the emergence of a new star ingredient, the "CBD" or cannabidiol, extracted cannabis (non-hallucinogenic) promoting wellness, tranquility and healing pain. The agency, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, discusses this new vision of makeup and skincare in its latest trend book, Freedom Beauty - US Makeup Trends.

Do you want to know more? Contact us

Discover our trend book Freedom Beauty - Inspiration from the USA