IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris),  our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023. 

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair. 

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors 

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.



2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY 

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.


3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

AI-assisted development

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.



The CIC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities. 

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

 

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

THE CIC TAKE

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)

TREND WATCH: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW24/25

Source: Bevza NYFW FW 24/25

New York Fashion Week saw designers embracing a return to classic elements, with nods to traditional craftsmanship, twisted by unconventional accents and innovation. From Protection Mode to Soft Envelop, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of 5 key trends to watch:

#1 Soft Envelop

Source: Jason Wu NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Proenza Schouler NYFW FW 24/25

This season, luxurious warmth and comfort were a key part of the narrative, where a trend for soft, enveloping fabrics and silhouettes emerged, blurring the line between clothing and blankets. Models were draped in voluminous, billowing fabrics exuding an effortless sense of comfort and style on the runway. Garments cocooned the wearer in luxurious warmth and softness, as seen in Jason Wu's blanket coats and enveloping silhouettes, Tibi's minimal approach featuring free-flowing luxurious wool, and Proenza Schouler's safety-pinned scarf-sweaters.

#2 Mob Boss

Source: Puppets and Puppets NYFW FW 24/25

Source: LaQuan Smith NYFW FW 24/25

Why settle for Mob Wife when you can be Mob Boss? Featuring statement coats, faux fur, and dramatic collars, this trend tells the story of a powerful woman exuding confidence and sophistication, redefining power dressing for the modern femme fatale. Linked to the #mobwife trend on social media (amassing 16.9M views on TikTok), the bold narrative was embraced by designers like Prabal Gurung with big coats and intense eye makeup, LaQuan Smith with latex-like silk skirts and oversized faux fur, and Puppets and Puppets with fuzzy shawls hiding sheer dresses.

#3 Maximalist Chaos

Source: Dauphinette NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Libertine NYFW FW 24/25

Celebrating abundance and inviting fearless experimentation, Maximalist Chaos is a playful call to break free from conventions and express creativity with abandon, standing at the antipode of quiet luxury. There was an overload of print and pattern at Libertine and Dauphinette while at Wiederhoeft, models donned furry and shiny headpieces, extravagant sunglasses and overstacked belts. The rise of eclectic and exaggerated styling redefined the runway with a daring spirit of excess.

#4 Protection Mode

Source: Tory Burch NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Thom Browne NYFW FW 24/25

With the rise of a "preventive" mindset led by more educated consumers, we are seeing the emergence of a new utilitarian beauty that prioritizes functional protection in our everyday lives. Designers at the forefront of fashion experimentation have embraced a laboratory-inspired aesthetic, working with materials reminiscent of vinyl or plastic to convey hygiene, safety and security. This trend for utilitarianism pushes the boundaries of fashion and gives rise to confronting aesthetics - from Helmut Lang's secure wrapping techniques to Tory Burch's vinyl-like trench coats and Thom Browne's protective overshoe-style footwear.

#5 Grey Pride

Source: Batsheva NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Christian Cowan NYFW FW 24/25

Recent trend reports from Cosmetics IC have highlighted the rising impact of the "Aging Well" movement, a narrative that has cascaded onto the catwalks, where older models exude timeless elegance and sophistication. This season represented a significant shift, defying ageist standards and embracing beauty diversity, with models from brands like Batsheva, Bevza, and Christian Cowan showcasing that style is ageless, encouraging a celebration of beauty across all stages of life. 

 

The CIC Take

This season, designers embraced boldness and inclusivity, celebrating individuality while merging fashion and function. From empowering styles to embracing age diversity, each trend reflects a dynamic shift toward self-expression and innovation. This also opens up new territories in the beauty landscape, paving the way for innovation and new narratives.

 

Learn more

Our latest reports: Inspiration Book: NYFW Fall/Winter 24/25, and What’s Up #20 - Inspiration from the U.S., explore the latest trends in beauty, contextualized with emerging consumer behaviors, cutting-edge innovations and cultural influences.

Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

EXTRA-VAGANCE: BRINGING THE EXTRA-ORDINARY INTO THE EVERYday, MAKEUP IN LOS ANGELES 2024

As TikTok’s influence over beauty continues to ascend, luxury brands are adapting viral trends to their house codes, while enshrining the levels of exclusivity and innovation that set them apart. Joining Leïla Rochet to decode the evolution of luxury beauty was Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research at Chanel for one of Cosmetics IC Beauty Talks hosted in MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024.

Source: Leila Rochet / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - MakeUp In Los Angeles 2024 / Eileen Kim

Thanks to their worldwide innovation centers, Chanel's scientific team is challenged to push back its limits and seek to develop new technologies and innovations. Motivated by the different regulations on which they depend in the creation and formulation of their products, particularly in terms of sustainability, but also by the needs and ideas of new generations, Chanel is keen to push their research to an even higher level and believes in the continuous drive to do better.

Leïla Rochet: Can you explain a little bit more about your role at Chanel?

Eileen Kim: Chanel has innovation centers across the world. I have the pleasure of leading the US Innovation and Research Center. Our mission overall is to seek out new technologies and to also push innovation for future skincare and makeup products, worldwide. We also partner with universities, startups, and industry experts, who can help us to seek out new technologies.

Leïla: Chanel is known for its unique texture, exceptional formulation, and very high-quality finish. What are the primary challenges when it comes to reaching those performance levels?

Eileen: We have regulations now that impact the products we create, and the ingredients that we use. This helps us to find new solutions. Another wonderful challenge is the new generation of consumers and their ideas. It’s so important for us to empathize with them, to understand their needs, their values, and what influences what they're going to buy and how they're going to use it. And of course, we have sustainability and CSR - that's a wonderful challenge that is at the heart of innovation today.

Leïla: Could you talk a little about one of your most recent product launches?

Eileen: The 31 launch is a beautiful example because it captures the essence of Chanel. The product packaging was inspired by the iconic staircase at 31 rue Cambon, while the refillable case is a new innovation. The formula itself has been carefully designed with different ingredients, including Gardenia oil that is specific to Chanel, and an active that brings skincare benefits to the lips. The beautiful packaging is a part of Chanel that you can keep, and pass down. It's a really nice example of innovation, legacy, and creation.

Leïla: How do you keep up with the trends and stay ahead of the latest innovations?

Eileen: That's a big challenge! We have a team of scientists who are experts in chemistry, and they go out and seek new technology and envision what this technology can bring. It’s important that we not only look at the beauty industry but at pharma, food, and agriculture… Inspiration can come from anywhere.

Leïla: How do you envision the future? You’ve talked about naturals and sustainability - how do you see that market evolving?

Eileen: I think sustainability regulations are having a really positive impact on our industry. We have to find advanced solutions to create the next generation of products, so sustainability and CSR are really pushing innovation forward. This is causing scientists like us to find new solutions that will be more efficient, better for the environment, better for people. I feel regulations will bring our products to a new level, and we can be proud of that.

We see lots of AI tools. I hope it will advance how we work, how we discover. And then there’s Gen Z and Gen Alpha. I think they're a very interesting generation, and luxury will be a way for them to self-express. I think what the beauty industry has always been, is purposeful. I'm really happy that I am part of that and I'm looking forward to seeing where it goes in the future.



KEY TAKEAWAYS

  • TikTok should be a core element of your brand strategy as a source of inspiration for future innovation, and increasingly as a retail outlet

  • Authenticity is key when it comes to social media virality and meaningful engagement

  • Social media users are interested in products and brands linked to luxury moments, events, and experiences (concerts, red carpets, etc)

  • Gen Z are ingenious at finding ways to feed their appetite for luxury on a budget (e.g., dupes and ‘repotting’ into luxury brand packaging)

  • Explore ways of introducing novel luxury gestures into consumers lives - from keepsake packaging to extravagant new applications (e.g., teeth gems, hair makeup)

Beauty Soundbites: Higher Futures, MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024

For MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024, Cosmetics IC hosted a series of four Beauty Talks to highlight the agency’s predictions for the year ahead. We will be highlighting the key talking points from some of our sessions and sharing a snapshot of the interviews that took place with a panel of top industry players, here on the Cosmetic Seeds blog. A full summary of all four talks, including in-depth interviews, key products and takeaways, is available now.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - Leila Rochet / Capsum - Sébastien Bardon / Haus Labs by Lady Gaga - Gloria Ryu

The Beauty Talk: Higher Futures - The transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty

Exploring the axis of artistry and science, performance and sensation, Higher Futures represents the agency’s analysis of the transformative power of a science-centric approach to beauty. The arrival of new technologies presents brands with bold opportunities to innovate and meet the rising expectations for exceptional solutions and elevated experiences. 

“There is a growing demand for very emotionally compelling and liberating physical experiences. Consumers are looking for groundbreaking experiences, groundbreaking innovation, extraordinary performance levels. It is beyond what they were looking for in the past, especially in the performance arena, but also in sensoriality.”  Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC

This desire for elevated experiences has been building since COVID, and in today’s polycrisis era, it has become an even more essential facet of the beauty routine. Consumers’ need for enhanced performance inspired a refocus of Lady Gaga’s Haus Labs in 2020, as the brand switched to a science-led innovation strategy. Critically, Haus Lab’s shift also introduced a new level of sensoriality into the beauty experience. This is a key facet of the work of Capsum - a contract manufacturer that specializes in microfluidic encapsulation technology, which makes it possible to assemble ingredients in a radically new way, controlling stability and heightening the sensory effect.  Joining Leila to discuss how a science-centric approach is transforming the world of beauty was Sebastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum and Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs By Lady Gaga.

Read on for a snapshot of Leila’s wide-ranging interview with Sebastien and Gloria from February 2024:

Leïla Rochet: Gloria, can you tell us about the decision to relaunch Haus Labs with a scientific approach?

Gloria Ryu: Our patented Fermented Arnica was born while experimenting with one of our R&D partners. Sarah Tanno, who is our Global Artistry Director, Lady Gaga, and the rest of the team were in the lab brainstorming on what we could do from a material perspective, and how to build products from the inside out - very much starting from the raw material phase. With our foundation, it's been marketed that we spent 10,000 hours in the lab, developing that product, an insane number of hours! It's very interesting because our pillars are artistry, science, and inclusivity and for us, it's about the intersection of those three. 

Leïla: Sébastien, you introduced microfluidic technology to the Beauty industry. Can you explain what that is?

Sébastien Bardon: When you develop custom products you use between 10 and 50 ingredients, and as you do in your kitchen, you mix them all together, right? But what we do is that we separate them into different phases, which can be up to five different phases, and then we produce the product one drop at a time. So we're making millimeter-sized drops of oil, containing the perfume and actives, that are going to be dropped into the hydrophilic formula. 

The reason we decided to apply microfluidics to Beauty is because you can bring multiple benefits. I think the simplest benefit is the visual aspect - we create products that are beautiful, and that helps brands differentiate one from the other. 

Leïla: Gloria, how do you see the skinification shift in relation to Haus Labs?

Gloria: I love the fact that our consumers and our community are so much more savvy, and really push brands to elevate from a higher standard of quality, execution, and performance. So it challenges us to push our partners to figure out that delicate balance between artistry, and performance.

Leïla: And what does skinification mean to Capsum?

Sébastien: It is obviously about adding active ingredients to your makeup, but it's also about bringing a new skin feel to makeup. We have achieved this with some brands, making makeup products that have a really nice skin feel, and freshness. They also speak for themselves because they have encapsulated pigments, and as a consumer, you understand very clearly this product is going to give you a makeup effect.

Leïla: Gloria, as head of PD, can you tell us a little more about the challenges in creating makeup that is both artistic and skincare-driven?

Gloria: Lady Gaga is an incredible futurist and visionary and her team has such a high standard of excellence in terms of performance. It’s got to withstand her dancing and performing two hours on stage, and when she takes it off her skin shouldn’t be red or irritated. It's a very fluid approach, it's the art and science synergy.

The CIC Take

Haus Labs and Capsum demonstrate how science and technology can be applied beyond performance to elevate the artistry and sensoriality of a product, placing innovation at the heart of product storytelling. A science-centric approach is now an essential strategy for brands to meet consumers’ ever-evolving expectations for sustainability, performance and sensoriality.

Contact the team today for a full summary and transcript of our session with Gloria and Sebastian, and all of the Beauty Talks presented exclusively at MakeUp in Los Angeles, available as one comprehensive report. Our 2024 trend white book, The Age of Thrill, is also available now.

TikTok: February 2024 Trend Inspiration

Source : @runscay / @milkydew / @daniellemarcan

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on TikTok to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation.  In February, inspiration came from corporate beauties and porcelain dolls, as Gen Z’s fascination with role-playing through makeup continued to propel beauty in artistic new directions. 



1. Office siren makeup

In keeping with the proliferation of office-friendly looks at Fashion Week (blazer, pencil skirt, tailored shirt...) corporate looks are all over TikTok. Inspired by Bella Hadid’s nod to Y2K office attire, users are recreating the serious but sophisticated makeup style, accessorized by skinny-frame eyewear and clean hair pulled back into a neat bun or accessorized with sensible clips. The makeup is characterized by cool-toned eye shadow in grey/blue hues and discreet liner, a matte powdered complexion, and lightly glossed lips. 

Characteristics: corporate dress code/ metal-framed eyewear/ skinny eyebrows/ cool-tone eyeshadow/ matte complexion

Hashtags: #officesirenmakeup: 7,6M views / #sireneyes: 408M views

Videos: @zoekimkenealy / @lottiestarrs / @lenkalul/ / @runsca

 
 

2. Rhode lip case

Hailey Bieber’s Rhode has developed a new accessory: a specially molded phone case designed to hold one of the brand’s signature Peptide Lip Tints or Treatments. The ergonomic phone case (which also features tactile buttons and a cushioned grip for easier selfie-taking) doubles as travel-friendly storage for quick, on-the-go touch-ups. Bieber’s original Instagram post featuring the Tint holder has clocked over 2.1M likes, proving once again, the influencer’s ability to create viral content linked to product drops.  

Characteristics: portable / travel-friendly / time + space-saving / on-the-go touch-ups

Hashtags:  #rhodeskin: 9M views / #rhodeliptint: 4M views / #peptideliptreatment: 30,1M views 

Videos: @britishvogue / @biebervelli / @milkydew / @justin_haber 

 
 

3. Pearl skin

Following Pat McGrath's iconic makeup look for the Margiela Haute Couture SS24 show in January, TikTok’s obsession with ultra-radiant, almost wet-look skin continues to intensify. An Instagram Live tutorial where the MUA revealed how to recreate the hyper-real porcelain skin effect was watched by 17,000 viewers. Interpretations of McGrath’s surreal, doll-like complexions are given a more achievable twist on TikTok, with creators building on the K-beauty #GlassSkin trend to create super-radiant skin that errs just on the right side of surreal. Using serum foundations, soft pink blush and highlighters, the aim is to achieve an allover ultra-fresh skin look with a radiant, pearlized finish.  

Characteristics: wet-look fresh skin / super-radiance / pearlized highlighters / pink-coral blush /  MAC Hyper Real serum foundation

Hashtags: #pearlmakeup: 9,2M views / #dewymakeup: 106M views / #glassskin: 1,3B views / #glassskinmakeup: 63,7M views

Videos:@daniellemarcan  / @saraorrego__/ @maccosmeticsusa/ @sunyatoo/ @hayleybuix / @sadelm3

 
 

The CIC Take

Gen Z’s fascination with character play continues to inspire new levels of creativity and artistry, as they demonstrate a keen ability to translate catwalk inspiration and abstract concepts into achievable everyday looks.

We explore the evolution of luxury gestures and the growing appetite for extravagance in our 2024 White Book: the Age of Thrill, which is available now. Contact the team today to get hold of your copy.

MEET THE FOUNDER - Talking Clean Beauty with Annie Jackson, CEO and Co-Founder of Credo

Annie Jackson is one of the most influential female leaders in the US, she has been a key player in the beauty space since her early career with Estee Lauder before becoming part of the team that launched Sephora USA. Just over a decade ago, Annie co-founded the clean beauty retailer Credo, which is now firmly established as one of America’s top sustainable beauty champions. 

“Annie Jackson is one of the leading voices in the clean beauty and sustainability movement. As co-founder and now CEO of Credo, Annie is uniquely positioned to offer insight into the evolution of the clean beauty space and share her thoughts on how the industry must adapt to ensure a better tomorrow. With value being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, brands are being driven to consider the future implications of products. Credo is a pro-active steward of progress, working alongside brands to evolve sustainability standards that go far beyond current consumer expectations.” Leila Rochet – Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

At the recent MakeUp in Los Angeles event, Annie joined our Chief Innovation Officer, Leila Rochet, to discuss one of the agency’s key trends for 2024 - Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future.

Read on for an exclusive extract of Leila and Annie’s Beauty Talk, where Annie shares her vision for the future of clean beauty and reveals the shifting priorities of Credo consumers.


Leila Rochet: How did your journey into Beauty unfold, leading to your role today as CEO of Credo? 

Annie Jackson: We started on the concept for Credo back in 2013 and opened our first store in 2015. We just opened our 16th location. We are a physical retail concept. While digital is very important to any business today, meeting the customers where they are in neighborhoods, where people are living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, and investing in their health, is where you will find a Credo. We want people to be able to explore and find new brands, try the products, and work with our estheticians and makeup artists. And that's our continued focus. 

Back in 2013 we really wanted to see if you could make a brand that was as efficacious as a conventional beauty brand in formula and packaging but with primarily plant ingredients in more sustainable options. We took the cue from the organic food movement and realized that people were investing in healthier options and educating themselves on what products they wanted to buy.  So we were curious, could we find enough brands to fill this store? We opened our first store in San Francisco, going head to head-with conventional beauty brands. We started with about 60 brands and we have 105 today. About a quarter of those brands we started with are still with us a decade later. 

Leila: There must have been a lot of challenges when you started. How do they compare to the challenges you face today? 

Annie:  Well, I think I can safely say for any entrepreneur or any founder out there, it's never a straight line. We had the COVID crisis in the middle of trying to grow a physical retail business, which is extremely capital-intensive.  Also, when we started we had this ecosystem of brands which were really celebrating finding a retail partner and wanted to grow alongside us.  The customer base has now grown so much that these brands are scaling and growing into bigger retailers, which is amazing. The fact that retailers with a larger footprint than Credo are committed to putting safer products on their shelves is an amazing thing. But from a business standpoint, it becomes quite challenging because that hurts our market share. It's a tricky one.

Yet, it hasn't made us any less passionate about what we do. We are striving to make a positive impact in the beauty industry and so we're often shoulder to shoulder with our competitors - Sephora, Ulta, Detox Market, and others. But you know, we're all in this together. And I think the more we can band together to make better choices for human health, it's a good thing.

Leila: How do you make sure that the products that you sell in your retailers are the safest ones? 

Annie: Before, we were manually checking products against our standard, but today we use a technology platform called Novi. We've also invested in a rock star team of impact specialists who come from environmental, toxicology, and science backgrounds, to help guide us. Today,  what we're doing as an organization is questioning if there could be a better way. For us, the secret sauce is finding brands that are not just meeting our standards, they're exceeding them, or they have a path to exceed. What makes me so proud of the brand community that we have is that these people have rolled up their sleeves and done the hard work - they're paying more money, and they're taking more time to bring products to market. And they're challenging the contract manufacturing community to look at other ingredients and explore other options. 

Leila: How do you help your consumers navigate all these changes and what are you seeing as their priority? 

Annie: From the outset, our customers have always been concerned about packaging. In the early days, while we vetted brands against a restricted substance list,  consumers were always saying, “I hate all this plastic!”. Customers are absolutely invested in being part of the solution. We co-founded the packaging collection program Pact Collective along with other stakeholders, but we also have the conversation on the selling floor about what is recyclable. The next thing that's top of mind for us is looking at ingredients that have no data and examining the assumption that they're safe or good for you. So we're starting to dig into that with Chem Forward, who are a nonprofit partner. It may mean that some products at Credo go away, but, you know, that's why we're here and that's the work that we're doing today.

Leila: According to Nielsen IQ - 61% of US consumers associate sustainability with benefiting the planet, while just 26% associate it with societal contributions. Credo has been active on matters like ethical sourcing of Mica, do you see ethical transparency as the next step for the industry?

Annie: Yes, I do. I think whether people are buying beauty products, or beer, or cars, they are much more invested in finding out information before they choose a product. And so it could be a source of ingredients, it could be packaging, it could be what a founder says on social media… it could be all of those pieces together. Gen Z has the highest bar of any customer out there, and they expect you to have all these things in place. They want the product to be all those things, with an entry-level price point, and a cool look and feel. They want it all. And that generation is growing up, they've got more spending power, and those are the brands that they're looking for. So I think it's a super exciting time. 

Leila: Education is one of Credo's core pillars - what tools and techniques do you use to educate consumers?

Annie: We have an education team and we invest most of our time in terms of associated selling preparation on training. Our dream is to have our brands be as well known on the selling floor as the brand founders themselves know them. We want our sales associates to know our brands intimately, so we spend most of our time on education, in terms of brand product knowledge, but also on what our standards are. I would say probably the most engaged customer that we have at Credo is someone who's expecting a child. These people are typically really invested in the choices they're making. 

Leila: In a previous interview in Vogue Business, you talked about moving “beyond clean beauty”, can you explain what you mean by this? 

Annie: It's really about moving beyond the restricted substance list, and understanding that the customer has embraced a much more holistic view of what clean or green beauty means to them. It involves packaging, people, ethics… just real transparency. I can say from experience that Beauty is a pretty opaque industry, and it’s not inherently forthcoming about what's in products, and who the people are that these brands are working with. By no means does Credo have everything figured out perfectly, but we're digging into things that should be very transparent to the customer. That's what people expect today. 

When I was talking about going beyond clean, it is because people tend to hear “clean beauty”, and they just think of ingredients, and that's it. But we're embarking on meeting our first sustainable packaging milestone this year, where our brand partners needed to reach 50% or greater PCR content. We put that out in the universe in 2020 and that's where we've been spending most of our time. From an ingredients standpoint, it's much more cut and dry, like, do you have these ingredients, or don't you? But on the packaging front, it's really been us linking arms with our brand partners and saying, we got to do better. We have to at the end of the day. The reality is we're in an industry where we sell products, and so if you're going to do that then let's invest in things that are just better for people and the planet.


KEY TAKEAWAYS:

  • Consumers want increasingly healthier options that align with their healthy lifestyles and are educating themselves before making purchase decisions.

  • Brands must be prepared to pay more and work harder to achieve outstanding results and push the culture of clean beauty forward. Dig deeper, and engage with technology platforms to help validate ingredients and materials.

  • Packaging remains a key sticking point for the beauty industry and is a top concern for sustainably-motivated consumers. 

  • Young consumers have a much wider definition of clean beauty that encompasses ingredient safety, packaging, ethical sourcing, and social purpose.

  • Retailers should center education in staff training and services to meet the consumer’s level of knowledge and enhance the product discovery experience on the shop floor.


To discover more about our key territory for 2024, Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future, contact the Cosmetics IC team today for your copy of our 2024 White Book: The Age of Thrill. Many thanks to the wonderful Annie Jackson, and all of our brilliant guest speakers at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024!

White Book 2024: The Age of Thrill

Death to Stock - Photo by Fanette Guilloud

As technology and science become integral facets of our always-evolving lifestyles, a growing demand emerges for elevated and indulgent experiences.  Our latest White Book explores The Age of Thrill, an era energized by radical innovations that will deliver extraordinary sensations and take performance levels to extreme new heights.

In an era marked by uncertainties and polycrisis, there is a growing demand for emotionally compelling and exhilarating physical experiences, especially with our ever-evolving lifestyles. Consumers are now invigorated by groundbreaking innovations that offer extra-ordinary sensations while elevating performance to unprecedented levels.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

The agency has identified the following five trends for 2024 and beyond, which represent the need for brands to meet heightened expectations around performance, creativity, and sustainability. 

1/ HIGHER FUTURE: The transformative impact of science-centric approaches 

In the future, all experiences will be hybrid, and product innovation will be committed to maximizing performance. New technologies and scientific discoveries, forefronted by Artificial Intelligence, will transform consumers' expectations, taking results-focused beauty to even higher levels. 

  • AI will revolutionize retail experiences and services. In the summer of 2023, Ulta Beauty partnered with Haut AI to bring personalized skincare diagnostics to the in-store experience. Haut AI has also developed SkinGPT - a skincare platform that uses generative AI to visually simulate the effects of products over time, based on a combination of a personalized quiz, uploaded images, and clinical data.

  • AI-powered bots will become a familiar feature outside of the professional salon space, meeting the demand for faster and budget-friendly options. Offering quick and affordable nail polish applications ($10) the mani-bot Clockwork is growing its presence across the US with a strategic focus on residential complexes and airports.

  • In beauty, a mindset rooted in science and focused on solutions is making waves and is being embraced by consumers driven by tangible outcomes. Amorepacific’s latest innovation, the Lipcure Beam (CES Innovation Award 2024 – Korea) employs precision sensor and diagnostic technology to deliver next-level care.  The device’s cap diagnoses the moisture levels and condition of the lips, while a brush-like applicator emits customized visible light to aid in lip care.

2/ TRANSIENT UTOPIA: Revisiting the codes of lifestyle

Beauty adapts to always-on-the-move lifestyles, as the thirst for leisure and the rising nomad economy drive innovation. The travel surge calls for refreshed routines and simpler, smarter formats that reimagine the practical nature of makeup. 

  • At PFW SS24, (September 2023 - France) Miu Miu presented a collection inspired by the future omni-traveler. Workwear was mixed with beachwear, sportswear was paired with eveningwear, as the brand played with the concept of “prototypical fashion”, reflecting the growing eclecticism of people’s daily lives. 

  • Climatic changes will continue to impact choices and behaviors, calling for new cooling sensations and soothing textures. Like those offered by the After Sun Gel from cult suncare brand Vacation (April 2023), which is primed to cool and soothe the skin after sun exposure.

  • Demand for intelligent SPF hybrids will rise as daily defense becomes central to the preparation for a better future. Combining a cooling sensation with SPF 50+, the TIRTIR Off The Sun Air Mousse SPF 50+ (April 2023 - Korea) features 2% Zero-Cooling Complex which is proven to reduce skin temperature by -4.8 degrees Celsius.

3/EXTRA-VAGANCE: Bringing the extraordinary into the everyday

Consumers are turning to lavish indulgences and grandiose gestures as a riposte to the daily grind of the recession. A new cohort of thrill-seekers are maxing out on experiences and eschewing convention to party through the permacrisis, exemplified by the monumental economic success of Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour.

  • Every aspect of Beyonce’s wardrobe and makeup for her Renaissance tour was analyzed and dissected on social media (#renaissancetour has garnered 3.9B views on TikTok), triggering a flurry of copycat looks and giving wings to the concept of #concertmakeup.

  • Celebratory looks are rising, and consumers are looking to their favorite idols for inspiration on how to introduce lavish gestures into their every day. In Korea, crystal nose-bridge embellishments have become a new way to wear face gems, thanks to fans spotting them on K-pop idols Jennie and Rosé from Blackpink during their Coachella performance. The look went viral on social media, with fans rushing to recreate the distinctive look.

  • Unseen Beauty (UK) is one brand that is driven to deliver extraordinary experiences, bringing unexpectedly luxe finishes to makeup. The  SPECTRA Eye Colour contains glass microspheres, half-coated with aluminum to transform the product into a bright, reflective silver under a phone camera's flash. Making it the ideal accompaniment to a night out.

4/ SYMBIOTIC EDEN: Adapting for a better future

Value is being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, driving brands to consider the future implications of products. As the climate crisis continues to unfold, innovation will come to the foreground of beauty as consumers look for solutions to increasingly prominent issues caused by environmental deterioration. 

  • Waste solutions will continue to rise, and will be encircled into new retail concepts. Greez (February 2023 - France) is a resale platform for unsold cosmetics, while This is Beauty (June 2023 – US) is an online retailer that works with global brands to keep products with damaged packaging away from landfill.

  • The acceleration of vertical farming (employed to great success by Ulé and Caudalie), opens up new territories of tech-driven sustainable sourcing. German brand Gezeiten worked with marine biologists and biotechnologists to study over a hundred compounds to develop Earth Marine CellTech Complex® - a combination of patented marine extracts and a mineral-rich submarine water concentrate. The complex is at the core of its new Face Cream (April 2023), which is packed with active biotech ingredients.

  • Plastic-free solutions will continue to rise with packaging companies like Verity (US) proposing metal as a solution for beauty, or Notpla (UK) which is exploring the potential of regenerative packaging(UK).

5/ EXPANDED CARE: Emotional-bonding beauty

As stress levels continue to rise in this period of permacrisis (61% of Americans say their stress is at an all-time high, while 89% of Chinese adults are actively seeking ways to reduce stress), emotional-bonding becomes essential in daily behavior.

  • In beauty, this manifests in the rise of comfort-boosting textures and new psychodermatalogical narratives, which are propelled by TikTok. The issue of skin sensitivity and barrier protection presents a new opportunity for brands to innovate from the perspective of emotional care.  The success of Rare Beauty (expected to exceed $300 million in sales in 2023 according to Fast Company), opens the path to more emotion-infused beauty products. 

  • Circadian beauty will continue to flourish as consumers look to align their well-being goals with their skincare ambitions. Complimentary skincare and supplement brand You’re Looking Well (UK)  has developed the Night Pill & Night Cream (August 2023) to help users optimize their sleep. Infused with ingredients to prepare the body for rest and help the skin recover, the two products work in tandem with the skin’s circadian rhythm to deliver a well-rested glow and a clear mind.

  • Clariant has been exploring the potential of neurocosmetics primed to tackle the effects of lack of sunlight exposure on the mood, and the skin.  In a presentation titled, "An Innovative Light-biomimetic Solution Stimulating Feel-good Hormones and Cognitive Relaxation to Tackle Lack of Sunlight Exposure and Dull Skin" Mathilde Frechet of Clariant outlined how the butterfly plants rich tormentic acid content enhances cognitive relaxation and skin complexion by amplifying the vitamin D pathway and hormonal production. 

The CIC Take

This culture of thrill-seeking will impact our vision of beauty, awakening a more pluriversal mindset and establishing next-level expectations, propelling beauty in a Protopian trajectory.

For the full version of our White Book, or for more information on any of our innovation and forecasting services, drop us a line today.

Ingredient Inspiration: Cosmet’Agora 2024

Arthur Mazi via Unsplash

The 16th edition of Cosmet’agora was held in Paris on 16 - 17 January 2024, showcasing the latest ingredient and formulation innovations. Fresh from the event, our Scientific & Product Expert, Enora Le Roux, deciphers the emerging ingredient trends that will impact tomorrow’s beauty. Below, discover 3 fields of innovation to inspire your future product creation.

“This year saw the influx of technology and science as the answer to tomorrow’s primary concerns around issues of sustainability, innocuity, and wellness.”  Scientific & Product Expert at Cosmetics IC, Enora Le Roux. 


1. Biotech - When nature meets new extraction technologies

Google search data reveals there is still high demand for biotech ingredients (+7.5% YoY, with a forecast increase of +24.3% over the next 12 months, according to Spate), as consumers lean into the possibilities of tech-enhanced nature to support their high-performance expectations. 

Provital – CircanblueTM (July 2023)

As the conversation around cyclical biorhythms gains traction in the wellness space (#circadianrhythm – 116.6M views on TikTok, January 2024) Provital demonstrates how overexposure to digital technology disrupts the peripheral circadian clocks in the skin, which play a key role in regulating its physiological metabolism. 

In response, Provital developed Circanblue™,  a vegan postbiotic active obtained via a plant-based fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. It re-synchronizes the skin’s natural circadian cycle after this has been altered by excessive Blue Light exposure - a concern growing amongst consumers on social media (#bluelight – 471.8M views on TikTok, January 2024) as they align their wellness and skincare goals.

Key Assets:

Vegan postbiotic / Obtained through biotechnology from cabbage (fermentation) / Regulates the skin’s circadian clock 🡪 “circabiology – science of resynchronization” / Regulates the impact of Blue Light on the circadian cycle

Lipotrue – Calisensix (January 2024)

Addressing rising cases of skin sensitivity, Lipotrue has developed Calisensix, a unique solution that resolves neurogenic inflammation while at the same time enhancing pleasant sensations in the skin.

Calisensix™ targets sensitive skin from both a holistic (sensorial) and biological approach, using plant stem cell technology obtained from the bark of white willow and tomato plants. There is growing interest in the potential regenerative benefits of stem cells for skincare - Spate reports a +27% increase in Google searches YoY( 2022 vs 20223), while TikTok views of #stemcells have clocked over 231.7M (January 2024).

Key Assets:

Resolves neurogenic inflammation / Targets nociception in keratinocytes / Boosts PIEZO1 to enhance pleasant sensations in sensitive skin

Biolie – Garnet Red (January 2024)

Meeting the continued demand for ultra-healthy cosmetics ingredients, Biolie has developed a solvent and water-free enzymatic extraction process - a zero-waste, 100% green technology. This bio-based enzymatic extraction method enables the creation of natural actives from plant-based raw materials, such as microalgae, beechnut, chicory seed, and lettuce. The lab’s latest ingredient, launched at the show, is Garnet Red - a natural lipophilic red dye for makeup and skincare applications.

Key Assets:

Natural antioxidant / Stable to heat and UV / Sustainable, 100% natural / Vegan alternative to Carmin

 
 

2. Longevity - Answering pro-aging/pre-aging concerns

The science and semantics of longevity are entering the skincare conversation, as the desire to live longer and healthier impacts consumers’ expectations of skincare performance. Biohacking culture, spurred by outrageously ambitious procedures undertaken by Silicon Valley billionaires, is taking over TikTok, with views of #reverseaging videos clocking over 180.7M views (January 2024).

In skincare, “anti-aging” ingredients are now “pro-longevity” ingredients. 

Lubrizol – Uplevity e-Lift Peptide (September 2023)

Tapping into the rising interest in Microcurrent Facials (+27% increase in Google searches in 2023 vs 2022, according to Spate), Lubrizol has captured the uplifting and firming results of microcurrent devices into a sustainable and naturally derived tetrapeptide. The powerful active mimics the benefits of electrical stimulation on the skin, increasing collagen production and improving mitochondrial function for an anti-aging effect. 

Key Assets:

Peptidic active / For lifting and firming effect / Focus on the up of the face (eye contour) / Inspired by the effect of the microcurrent tools: stimulate an electric stimulation of the derma (cell contraction) / Results at 7 and 28 days

Mibelle – RejuveNAD (November 2023) 

The role of NAD+ in cellular processes continues to gather interest, with consumer searches for NAD up +24.2% YoY (2023 vs 2022, Spate), as they investigate ways of boosting regeneration for anti-aging results. 

RejuveNAD™from Mibelle introduces the possibility of boosting NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications (rather than via supplements). The ingredient, derived from indoor-farmed sunflower sprouts,  targets age-related processes by optimizing cellular functions, and revitalizing the skin by naturally boosting levels of NAD+. According to Mibelle, the skin looks eight years younger in 42 days. Google searches for NAD have increased +24.2% YoY 

Key Assets:

NAD booster / For skin longevity / Obtained from sunflower sprouts from indoor farming / Acts on 5 of the 9 pillars of skin aging

3. Adaptive: Formulating for climate-adaptive freshness 

The post-pandemic revenge travel surge is set to continue, with 54% of respondents saying they’ll take even more international trips in 2024 than they did in 2023 (Going – The State of Travel – 2024). A culture of nomadism is fuelling a new category of Flexcare - beauty adapted for the unique specificities of travel, which prioritizes convenience and freshness. In this context, we noted several key innovations that center claims of climate-adaptiveness and refreshing sensations. 

The return of travel and rising global temperatures are driving consumers to search out cooling and refreshing sensations - TikTok views of the hashtags #skincarecooling and #skincooling are at 280.1M and 43.8M, respectively ( January 2024).

Unipex – Frozen Glow - Meeting this rising demand is Unipex’s Frozen Glow, which is formulated for a deeply refreshing effect. Frozen Glow contains peppermint leaf water, which stimulates blood circulation to restore the skin’s radiance and impart cooling and toning benefits. 

Key Assets:

Solid emulsion water/wax / Contains H2Olixir Peppermint from Berkem for purifying, toning, and refreshing / A combination of two inverse emulsifiers: Evicare® PGPR from Evident & GlucateTMDO from Lubrizol / Using a new brand’s technology to add hydrophilic actives

PolymerExpert – AquaStick

Combining the need for a convenient format with refreshing effects, the AquaStick is formulated to deliver the fresh feeling of water on the skin, with the soothing sensation of a cream. There is huge interest in on-the-go suncare formats - TikTok views of the hashtag #skincarestick are at 277.8B (January 2024) - presenting a huge opportunity for innovation.

Key Assets: 

Innovating galenic: solid format with 50% of aqueous phase / 100% natural fragrance with aquatic notes that enhance the sensation of freshness


Roelmi France - Ready Stick Go

Designed specifically to combat the effects of sports on the skin, the water-free stick contains microbiota actives that impart a cooling effect while keeping the skin hydrated during activities.

Key Assets:

Water-free / Fast hydration / Cooling effect / Multitasking functionality 

 
 

Special thanks to all the exhibitors for taking the time to explain their new ingredients.

The CIC Take

In our latest Skincare Inspiration from the US report – Transformative Beauty - we explore the product and ingredient innovations impacting the US market and decipher the implications for future innovations.

Contact us today for your copy, and for details of our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024). Find us at booth L36, where we will host our signature Inspiration Bar and Beauty Talks, highlighting our future predictions for 2024 and beyond.

Trend Inspiration: Maison&Objets 2024

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

With the theme of Tech Eden, the 30th-anniversary edition of Maison&Objet (18-22 January, Paris) invited exhibitors to consider how the symbiosis of technology and nature will inform future design scenarios. 

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Coralie Arme, Forecasting & Insights Consultant, explored the show at Paris’ Parc Expo Villepinte, to uncover the top 3 fields of innovation to inspire future-focused solutions for the beauty industry. 

“This year's theme explored the vital links between technology and nature, showcasing future-facing design that improves overall well-being and prioritizes environmental sustainability.” Coralie Arme, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Consultant in Forecasting and Insights. 

1.Symbio-tech: Augmenting nature

WINT Design Lab perfectly embodied the show’s symbiotic emphasis, as the Berlin-based design and research lab explored the relationship between ecological and technological responsibilities.

The studio overcomes disciplinary silos to tackle today's challenges through various projects including bio-textile innovation. Collaborating with biotech startup Mimotype, WINT has developed a high-performance outdoor textile created from 100% collagen. Through this future-proof innovation, the design lab is tapping into the potential of quick iteration cycles.

In beauty,  there is a growing normalization of human augmentation through technology (AI-supported healthcare, adaptive and personalized systems, circadian rhythm lighting, etc).  Harnessing technology to stimulate natural processes, Solaris Laboratories’ LED Intensive Hair Growth Stimulating Brush is an advanced hair and scalp treatment technology that helps prevent hair loss and reverse thinning hair. 

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Solaris Laboratories NY - Photo by Cosmetics IC

2. Upscaling waste: Imagining new-gen materials

Mâche&Maché is a culinary design studio committed to exploring the hyper-future of food. For the show, at the “Inspire me!” by Peclers corner, the studio showcased “Papier Alimentaire” - an edible (and decorative) packaging material made from waste fruit and vegetables designed for large-scale use in the food industry. According to the studio, for sustainable food to be widely accepted, it must offer a more desirable experience than today's standard fare.

In the wellness corner, Japanese brand Incense Kitchen showcased a new incense created from repurposed matcha. The brand advocates recycling matcha into tea incense (instead of perfume) to prevent the wasteful disposal of fine matcha particles in factory machines and air purifiers, providing an alternative and more sustainable outcome.

Mâche&Maché x Peclers - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Incense Kitchen - Photo by Cosmetics IC

3. Healing homes: Anti-anxiety interiors

When one crisis follows another, the actions needed to respond sometimes seem out of reach. Modern society is gripped by an anxiety epidemic, and designers are charged with providing solutions that holistically ease discomfort. The notions of sensoriality and fluidity are thus at the heart of tomorrow's design challenges. 

Furniture and objects exhibited sinuous, undulating curves to give everyday settings the air of primitive landscapes with spiritual dimensions. Roundness is as de rigueur as ever, transforming living spaces into cocoons of comfort. Sofas, armchairs, and chairs play a common score, that of an enveloping, reassuring hug.

Mathieu Lehanneur's "Outonomy" offers an alternative vision of survivalist habitats. By questioning the kind of life we want to lead, Outonomy proposes a return to an original cave, with the comforts we no longer wish to give up.

In beauty, Austrian skincare brand Be […] my friend uses only the purest organic, plant-based ingredients to provide maximum care for the skin, while at the same time minimizing stress. The two pillars of the brand are to elevate the way the skin is treated, while simultaneously elevating the way the environment is treated. 

“Outonomy” by Mathieu Lehanneur - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Be [..] my friend - Photo by Cosmetics IC

The CIC Take

Tech Eden suggests a Protopian vision of the future - a natural awakening, enriched by technological innovations - from biotextiles and 3D printing to AI-powered design. Nature remains omnipresent through radical interpretations of color, form, and material.

In our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US report - Protopian Beauty - we investigate the latest product innovations in the US and explore how technological acceleration is paving the way for a  more progressive future. For more information on this report, and for details on our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024) - drop us a line today. 





TikTok: 2023 End of Year Inspiration

To wrap up a year of inspiration, the CIC team has analysed the TikTok trends that dominated in the last months of 2023 - from superhero-inspired effects and sugar-glazed wintery hues to intentionally unsettling makeup. 


1. RAINBOW MASK

With its links to the LGBTQIA+ pride flag, Rainbow Mask makeup involves creating a spectrum of colours across the eye area, in the shape of a superhero mask. To begin, two strips of tape are placed on the face, above and below the eyes, to create a defined area for applying makeup.

White eyeshadow powder is then applied as a base, with different colours layered on top to create a rainbow effect. The tape is removed to reveal the mask effect. For finishing touches, the look is enhanced with hand-drawn artistry, gems and 3D embellishments.

There are alternative approaches, such as James Charles' preference for a mask in shades of pink with clouds, but the fundamental concept remains the same.

Key hashtags: #rainbowmask: 3.5M views / #rainbowmakeup: 349.5M views

Key influencers: @lucasrodgerss/ @mimiermakeup/ @beatsbydeb/ @nikkietutorials/ @jamescharles  

 
 

2. Sugar Plum Fairy

Once again, Hailey Bieber triggered another viral makeup trend, this time fusing food-inspired narratives with her signature, Clean Girl coquettishness to declare winter 23/24, Sugar Plum Fairy season. Inspired by her childhood role in The Nutcracker, Bieber posted a festive look that riffs on the ballet’s iconic Land of Sweets segment, using sugary, shimmery pink hues with plum undertones.

To create the look, bright pink blush is extended from the cheeks to the temple and draped across the bridge of the nose and the eyes to create a frost-bitten glow.  Plum, berry, warm pink, and mauve colours are also used by TikTokkers, reflecting the look on different skin tones. Defining her brows and adding a subtle glow with highlighter, Bieber then adds faux freckles. The look is completed by the Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment in the limited-edition shade Jelly Bean (a shimmery sheer pink).

Sugar Plum Fairy makeup builds on several key trends that surfaced last year (most of which were perpetuated by Bieber herself), blending the glow of #CleanGirl with the pink hues of #Balletcore.

Rising hashtags: #sugarplumfairy: 129M views/ #ballet: 19.8B views/ #balletcore: 1.4B views

Key influencers: @haileybieber/ @alissajanay1/ @victorialyn

 
 

3. Uncanny Valley Makeup

The Uncanny Valley trend, popularised by creator Emilia Barth, gained widespread attention at the end of 2023, thanks to her unsettling transformation into a humanoid robot. Using pale foundation and concealer, liquid eyeliner, and contour powder, Barth mimics the plasticky appearance of a robot’s skin, creating an eerily captivating effect.

The look is inspired by the slightly awkward imagery often generated by AI, which has flooded the public consciousness in recent months. TikTokkers have been quick to capture this uneasy aesthetic by recreating the almost otherworldly looks. Part robotic and part doll-like, the finished result is purposefully unnerving, with TikTokkers adding exaggerated facial expressions and haunting choral music to double-down on the uncanny effect. The trend now extends beyond mere makeup application, to include an Uncanny Valley-inspired filter. With its esoteric and unconventional themes, #UncannyValley occupies the same universe as #weirdcore and #dreamcore, as Gen Z continues to explore increasingly extreme and subversive narratives as a form of self-expression.

Rising hashtags: #uncannyvalleymakeup: 233.5M views

Key influencers: @blonde.girlyy/ @mimiermakeup/ @yodelinghaley 

 
 

The CIC Take

TikTok continues to prove to be a vital indicator of the motivations of Gen Z, and our latest Trend Book, Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US is enriched with the latest TikTok data (provided by our partner, Spate), which feeds our prospective research and trend analysis. In it, we explore the latest consumer shifts and how these are impacting makeup - including the evolution of subversive messaging, as consumers embrace increasingly unconventional - and unhinged - aesthetics.

Contact us today for more information on Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US.

The Female Gaze: Radically Redefining Korean Femininity

Self-expression, equality, and independence: these are the prominent demands of young Korean women, who, despite continued obstruction, are pushing against established narratives to rewrite the rules of femininity. 

 

Photo credit - Oddtype via Instagram

 

Our latest What’s Up Korea report delves into what has become one of the biggest social-cultural shifts in Korea - the rise of feminism and the emergence of new aesthetic codes. With 64% of Korean women in their 20s supporting feminism, this is an issue that is already influencing and shaping K-beauty trends, giving rise to gender-neutral, masculine, and rebellious looks.  

Read on to discover key highlights from The Female Gaze - one of five key territories identified in our full What’s Up Korea report - as femininity is radically redefined by the next generation.

1. 4B BEAUTY

South Korea has had a recent history of bold feminist action, from the call to “free the corset” in the late 2010s to today’s radical “4B” movement. The formation of 4B marks an ideological shift as young Korean women mobilize to shake up societal expectations. The four "B’s" are based on the following four principles: Bihon (no to heterosexual marriage), Bichulsan (no to childbirth), Biyeonae  (no to dating), and Bisekseu (no to heterosexual sexual relationships). 

This radical new thinking bleeds into beauty, fuelling  #utilitycore and #militarycore trends on social media, as women absorb traditionally masculine codes into their beauty sphere and K-pop idols proudly go makeup-free. At Seoul Fashion Week, highly functional and gorpcore-esque, clothing came in a muted, military palette that was echoed in the minimalist, colorless and barefaced makeup looks, spotted at Ajobyajo and BLR.


2. GRUNGE GODDESS

Breaking the rules of traditional makeup, the emergence of alternative looks is closely aligned with the rise of feminism. We are tracking a growing trend for glossy lids, hand-drawn freckles (+33.7% YoY increase in Naver searches - Spate NY Tool - Oct 2022 to Nov 2023 vs Oct 2021 to Nov 2022), dark under eyes, teeth gems, bleached eyebrows and piercings. At Fashion Week, the aesthetic was elevated at Vegan Tiger, where models sported exaggerated freckles and glossy lids, while at HEEYONGHeE, the only obvious sign of makeup was a dark purple undereye. Here, hair was almost greasy, with loose strands falling all over the face for a messy, don’t care look.


3. WARRIOR GLAM

Coming out fighting, young women are going to war with the patriarchy. South Korean women are being shown in a new, empowering light - from the success of the new feminist thriller Green Night (starring Fan Bingbing) to the bold feminist lyrics in the debut single of girl group Nugu. Against this backdrop, fashion and beauty are becoming key weapons to articulate women’s dissatisfaction with outdated ideologies. At Fashion Week, Holy Number 7 took inspiration from the boxing gym, with models sporting sparring gloves and head protectors as accessories. In beauty, a more sophisticated coolness emerges, far from the romantic and girly aesthetic that defines mainstream Korean tastes. New brands are inspiring consumers to embrace their individuality, such as the vegan-certified Oddtype, which proposes an embracing of individuality, and beauty that cannot be defined by one type. This brings a fresh perspective to the Korean beauty space, that breaks away from cliches. 

THE CIC TAKE

Shifting gender politics in Korea will have global implications for the beauty industry, as young Korean women move away from conventional beauty tropes to embrace more radical and expressive looks. This departure will have a huge impact on cosmetics innovation, changing the direction of the Hallyu beauty wave as brands must adapt to stay relevant to politically engaged and empowered consumers.

To get your copy of the full What’s Up Korea report, to arrange a personalised Seoul Inspiration Tour, or for a specialist Seoul Retail Report, contact us today.

TIKTOK: OCTOBER TREND INSPIRATION

Source : @itsbeautybybrit / @hhheathermichelle / @sofiarichiegrainge

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover which autumnal food is inspiring the latest viral makeup trend and the lip look championed by TikTok’s newest super-influencer, Sofia Richie.

  1. BETTY BOOP MAKEUP

The Betty Boop makeup trend has taken TikTok by storm, with the hashtag #bettyboopmakeup amassing an impressive 305.2 million views. This captivating challenge encourages users to transform their appearance to resemble the animated icon, Betty Boop. From the bold red lips to the signature hairstyle, participants showcase their creativity in recreating the vintage look of this legendary character. The meticulous attention to detail extends to the eyebrows, as users artfully shape and style them to mirror Betty's high, rounded arc.

Notably, views experienced a significant surge in October, suggesting a correlation with preparations for Halloween. This trend underscores the TikTok community's creativity and responsiveness, seizing the opportunity to metamorphose into one of pop culture's most iconic figures.    

Key Influencers: @itsbeautybybrit / @madddnot

Rising Hashtag:  #bettyboopmakeup 305.2M views

2. PUMPKIN SPICE MAKEUP

Pumpkin spice flavours have become synonymous with autumn,  capturing the warm essence of the season. And as food narratives continue to cascade into beauty, unsurprisingly TikTokkers have now turned the coffee shop favourite into a viral beauty trend.  

Pumpkin Spice Makeup is characterised by a monochromatic bronzed look, while Pumpkin Spice Latte Makeup is distinguished by warmer honey tones with shades of orange and cinnamon. 

What makes these trends particularly attractive is their ease of replication. Monochromatic brown tones create a coherent and warm aesthetic, underscoring that an abundance of colours isn't always necessary. Simplicity and warmth are the keys to an elegant and timeless autumn look.

Key Influencers: @hhheathermichelle / @giofilmedthis

Rising Hashtags: #pumpkinspicelattemakeup: 5.9M views / #pumpkinspicemakeup: 25.1M views / #pumpkinmakeup: 69.8M views

CONCEALER LIPS 

The influencer Sofia Richie (@sophiarichiegrainge – 3.4M followers on Tiktok) recently sparked a new craze for #concealerlips (65.9M views) when she ditched vampy autumnal hues for ombré nudes.

In her viral TikTok tutorial, Richie used a combination of YSL's Candy Glaze in shades 14 (Scenic Brown) and 15 (Showcasing Nude), applying the tones in a tapping motion to the lips. She then placed a dab of concealer in the centre, creating a delicate ombré finish.  

Once popular in the early 2000s, concealer lips have faded from the makeup scene with the rise of barely-there nudes, but the recent revival (although receiving mixed reactions) can be linked to the rise of Latte and Pumpkin Spice makeup looks.

Key Influencers: @sofiarichiegrainge/ @kellystrackofficial

Rising Hashtag: #concealerlips: 66.3M views

The CIC Take:

Latte Makeup continues to exert influence, as the trend moves in a new direction dictated by the season. The popularity of the look is strongly linked to the universal appeal of brown tones and the ease of recreation - signalling a preference for simplified routines.

Inspiration Tour: Paris Retail Snapshot

Source: Sephora Champs Elysées - Photo: Cosmetics IC

The CIC team opens the address book on our home city, Paris, revealing our top three destinations for beauty inspiration - from a reinvigorated flagship to a cult new favourite.  

Read on to discover 3 of the Cosmetics IC Paris retail highlights:


Mind Oasis by Rituals

33 Avenue des Champs-Élysées

www.rituals.com

Source: Rituals Champs Elysées - Image: Cosmetics IC

ID Sheet

With its warm and welcoming atmosphere, the Mind Oasis spa from Rituals offers a unique experience dedicated to mental relaxation and well-being. Taking a holistic approach aimed at soothing both the body and the mind, the spa offers two distinct experiences: Mental Relaxation and Hydromassage. The space comprises a 250-square-meter Rituals boutique on the ground floor and a 300-square-meter spa on the upper floor, featuring six Mental Relaxation cabins and nine Hydromassage beds.

Inspiration Seeds

This immersive well-being space responds to contemporary aspirations for unique wellness experiences. Appealing to time-pressured consumers, the spa offers relatively short services that can be undertaken during a lunch break or between appointments - the Mental Relaxation treatment lasts for 30 minutes, while a Hydromassage session takes just 20 minutes. Involving the latest technologies, including 4D sound stimulations, haptic vibrations and LED lights, treatments are designed to relieve tension and reinvigorate the body.



Sephora

72 Av. des Champs-Élysées

www.sephora.fr

Source: Sephora Champs Elysées - Image: Cosmetics IC

ID Sheet

The iconic Sephora flagship on the Champs-Élysées (originally opened in 1996) recently reopened after a major renovation. Spanning 1,200 square meters, the new store design takes its inspiration from Parisian architecture - it features a 90-meter central aisle with stone paving and decorative details inspired by 19th century ironwork. The store comprises different thematic spaces covering fragrance, skincare, makeup, haircare, and beauty services, bringing together a lively and in-depth mix of over 300 luxury brands and cult labels. 

Inspiration Seeds

Despite the grand renovation and impressive interior that gives the store a very clearly defined sense of place, what really marks this store out is the commitment to service. Haircare, skincare and brow maintenance are all covered, while a VIP lounge provides exclusive services to top-tier clients, including massages and makeup sessions. Enhancing the experience are animations like "Hot on Social Media" and "Fragrance Discovery" while at the back, an engraving workshop allows customers to personalize their fragrance bottles. The reopening of the store coincides with the build-up to the busy Holiday period, and re-establishes Sephora as Paris’s foremost beauty destination just in time for the Olympics. 




Source: La French Beauty - Image: Cosmetics IC

ID Sheet

Founded by Sébastien Guerra, La French Beauty is a concept store that features a meticulously curated edit of 38 independent French cosmetic brands (known as “roommates”) that share a commitment to responsible practices. Described by Guerra as a "friendly, joyful, and passionate co-living space," La French Beauty captures France’s creative sensibility and commitment to craft. Categories covered include skincare, makeup, haircare, fragrance, supplement and babycare.

Inspiration Seeds

The store’s mix of cult and indie French brands makes it one of the best places in the city to source new product inspiration. Stocking well-known names such as All Tigers, Absolution, Huages (specializing in CBD), Madame la Présidente, Kadalys, Kerzon, and those catering to children and babies like Ouate and Poupon, it offers a diverse product range. Guerra hosts weekly in-store activities and events, including discussions, product trials, and meetings with brand founders, cultivating a lively and engaged community of French beauty fans.


The CIC Take

Paris has one of the most diverse beauty retail scenes, covering everything from legacy luxury brands to emerging independents, that proudly promote their “Made in France” credentials.

Our uniquely curated Inspiration Tours offer a comprehensive exploration of Paris and the richness of French craftsmanship - contact us today for your guide.     

FLEXCARE: Skincare adapts to a transient world

We are living in a world in a constant state of flux and our latest trend report, Transformative Beauty: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, encourages brands to lean into the desire for change.

Photo Credit: Utu

The growing influence of nomadic lifestyles and surge in travel feed into the transformative narrative, as major lifestyle shifts present new opportunities for brands. FLEXCARE is one of six universes presented in our report as defining the next phase of skincare and wellness. In this perspective territory, we explore how the impulse to travel and the influx of untethered lifestyles must be met with multitasking products that fit with, and adapt to, transient needs. Below is a snapshot from the FLEXCARE universe, offering an insight into two major new drivers: the desire for cooling sensations in the context of rising temperatures and the need to redefine practicality for the new era of on-the-go lifestyles.

1- COOLBOMING: Resort sensoriality

As society adapts to rising temperatures, keeping cool is a new imperative, leading to innovation in fabrics and formulations that offer relief from the heat. Clothing brand LifeLabs has developed CoolLife technology - a polyethylene fabric that regulates body heat to cool the wearer’s temperature 3°F more effectively than comparable fabrics. While in beauty, new textures and tools that deliver refreshing effects are replicating the same cooling sensations. 

  • The Chasin’ Rabbits Ice-Cold Soothing Serum Roller (May 2023) provides pore-tightening and cooling in one gesture. The surgical steel roller applicator glides over the skin to deliver an instant cooling sensation.

  • The After Sun Gel (April 2023) from cult US suncare brand Vacation is a modern take on nostalgic aloe vera aftersun products but with a refreshing non-sticky, alcohol-free formula infused with cucumber, and Bisabolol. The gel is cool-to-touch, bringing soothing relief to sun-exposed skin.

2- TRANSIENT ADAPTIVE: Reinventing practicality

Since the pandemic, increasing numbers of young people have been drawn to a nomadic lifestyle, while at the same time people are spending more time outdoors (linked to the mental health benefits of nature and the travel boom). These lifestyle shifts, combined with rising sustainability concerns and the global financial crisis, are driving the market for #summerskincare (230M TikTok views) miniatures and multiuse products adapted to on-the-go and outdoor lifestyles. 

  • New brand Utu developed the Tinted Sunscreen Stick Broad Spectrum SPF50 (May 2023) specifically for people with a love for the outdoors - the stick is marketed as "the perfect companion for every adventure under the sun".

  • New products are designed to combat the effects of humidity on the skin. Florence by Mills’ Mind Over Matte-R Oil Blotting Stick (July 2023) is an oil blotting stick, which blurs and minimizes shine for a visibly smooth, matte appearance. While the First Aid Beauty Anti-Chafe Stick (April 2023) addresses the issue of skin chafing by creating a sweat-resistant shield that lasts for 10,000 steps. 

THE CIC TAKE

With half of US consumers intending to travel more in 2023 than they did last year (Source: Forbes Advisor Survey, August 2023), the nomadic lifestyle shift will continue to grow demand for  skincare products that are easy-to-use and portable, while also driving the need for intelligent suncare and quick fixes that reinvent practicality for the nomadic age.


The full report, Transformative Beauty: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, is available right now - please contact the team today for more information. 

(Image: courtesy Utu)

TIKTOK: September Trend Inspiration

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover the next food-inspired beauty trend and the controversial music video that is inspiring TikTokkers to experiment with provocative beauty looks. 


1. STRAWBERRY MAKEUP by Hailey Bieber 🍓💋

Naming skin trends after food has become a trend in itself, and despite some backlash, TikTokkers continue to latch on to these buzzy terms. From latte makeup to potato makeup, food-related shades are capturing the imagination. 

In August, strawberry makeup went viral, thanks to Hailey Bieber uploading a photo of herself with a dewy, fresh look, signed off with the emojis: 🍓💋. In doing so, she inadvertently created this summer’s signature beauty trend, #strawberrymakeup. Perhaps not coincidentally, Bieber timed her strawberry post with the launch of a new lip treatment flavour by her brand Rhode; Strawberry Glaze. 

The strawberry makeup look is defined by a quick, fresh summer makeup that continues Bieber’s signature style of a glowy, rosy, light complexion created using creamy products. The T-zone is illuminated, while the contour is accentuated by a darker bronzer. The key element is "false freckles", which have been a constant feature over the summer. Finally, the lip contour is worked with a lip pencil and then a gloss to finish.

Key Influencers: @andrea_subotic/ @jamescharles / @glowwithnorhane

Rising Hashtags: #strawberrymakeup – 308.6M views / #strawberrygirl – 60.4M views (September 14, 2023)

Spate Data: TikTok searches for Strawberry Makeup +4386,5% YoY (September 11, 2023)

2. CONTROVERSY by Doja Cat🩸🥀

Doja Cat has never been shy of courting controversy and her latest song, “Paint the Town Red”, is her most provocative creation yet. The TikTok-famous dance anthem flirts with themes of satanic worship, feeding the cultural appetite for transgressive content. In the music video, she is seen embracing the grim reaper, throwing raw meat, wearing pentagrams and devil horns. 

Doja Cat’s creative subversions have a loyal following on social media, triggering copycat makeup looks inspired by the themes explored in her controversial content. Adjacent looks play with the aesthetic codes of Paint the Town Red: new romantic, vampiric and gothic gestures,  blood red lips outlined with a darker pencil, black and red graphic eyes, fake blood artistry and mis-applied mascara. 

Key Influencers: @tyra.mua/@makeup.lois/ @k.figaszewska/ @jeamyblessed/ @anemariemua/ @sophiasinot

Rising Hashtags:  #dojacat – 28.3B views/  #demonsdojacat – 3.4M views/ #painttownred – 6.9M views/ I paint the town red makeup – 18M views (September 14, 2023)

3. WRINKLE ART - taking it back to 2018 -🌪️

The latest creative beauty hack doing the rounds on TikTok was spurred by @nettart (27.7K followers on Tiktok), who created the look that she calls, "metallic chic". To achieve a wrinkle-effect, the model is asked to squeeze their eyes shut tightly, and then metallic pigment is worked over the folds of the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Once the eyes are open a stencil-like effect is created from the negative space of the folds.

Key Influencers: @catquinn / @josiezhou1028/ @meicrosoft/ @f.bermann/ @arsonblue/ @julias_makeup_palette

Rising Hashtag: #wrinklemakeup – 97.8K views (September 14, 2023

The CIC Take

The popularity of Doja Cat’s often shocking social media content confirms the shift towards transgressive beauty influences. Brands should take confidence in the consumer appetite for edgy, alternative looks and develop products that fuel the desire for subversive experiences: such as sticky, visceral textures, gore embellishments, and prosthetics that dramatically alter the features.

TIKTOK: SUMMER Trend Inspiration

Sources: @makeupbysamathaharvey - @millieleer - @luvyurselfboo

Every month the CIC team takes the pulse of social media to unearth the strongest beauty signals. This Summer, it was impossible to avoid the impact of Barbie and the dominance of one colour - pink, but as ever, TikTokers made the trend their own with interesting subversions. Brown was another key colour, as #LatteMakeup went viral and users recreated the effects of summery, bronzed skin in monochrome caramel tones.

The state of the economy is never far from consumers’ minds, and frugal themes are being reflected in beauty in increasingly interesting ways. Last month, users creatively demonstrated the multifunctionality of a single product, prompting followers to strip back their makeup kits to the bare essentials.

Overall, summer was defined by ingenuity and creativity, as TikTokkers demonstrated makeup’s transformative power. Read on to discover the top three trends for Summer 2023:

  1. ANTI-BARBIE

With the release of the movie Barbie, directed by Greta Gerwig, makeup looks inspired by the iconic doll have multiplied (#barbiemakeup: +183K Instagram posts/ 833.6M TikTok views). Pink (specifically Pantone 212) and blue dominate, while eye looks are a focus, inspired by the "double cut crease" or "siren eyes" trend. In the most commercial expression of the trend, influencers are recreating classic Barbie eyes to a soundtrack of Aqua’s infamous Barbie Girl (1997) tune.

Key Influencers: @makeupbysamanthaharvey / @franduartmakeup / @isabelleikpeme 

Inevitably there has been a creative backlash as people denounce the race to perfection (and the proximity to plastic surgery). Influences from drag queen culture (such as tyra.mua's @trixiemattel-inspired look) to the world of Tim Burton result in more pronounced and exaggerated looks that distort the ultra-perfect aesthetic. Influencers are also juxtaposing the saccharine pink of Barbie with the darker themes of the movie Oppenheimer  (#barbenheimer 501.5M TikTok views) to create contrasting pink-black looks. 

However, where this trend becomes really interesting is when TikTokers confront the pressure to be perfect by using makeup to depict the cosmetic procedures it takes to be Barbie beautiful. And finally, the trend comes back to a strong message of self-acceptance, as users reverse the heavily contoured, pink-hued look to reveal their natural beauty. Ultimately, the Anti-Barbie trend is a message of hope and acceptance. By rejecting the pressure to be perfect, people are encouraged to embrace and celebrate their authentic appearance.

2. LATTE MAKEUP 

Propelled by Hailey Bieber’s transition from Clean Girl to bronzed goddess, this trend is growing by the day. Latte makeup consists mainly of warm, brown hues (the predominant tones are caramel and coffee) for the eyes and face, while lips are nude or glossy. Cheeks are further sculpted with bronzer to create a radiant glow.  The surge is confirmed by Spate which shows that TikTok searches for Latte Makeup are at 33.7M, while views of the hashtag  #lattemakeup are at 129.9M. One of the main appeals of this trend, and pivitol to its virility on social media, is its inclusive nature - the warm, brown palette suits a range of skin tones and types, unlike Vanilla Girl or Clean Girl which skews towards Eurocentric ideals. 

Diverting from the wholesome glow of Latte Makeup, #EspressoMakeup (7.5M views) is being dubbed as the trend’s “grungier sister” on social media. This take involves deeper and darker tones to create a more intense and sultry look that focuses on the eyes. A demi-matte complexion is blushed with bronzing pearls, while the eyes are outlined in dark brown pencil and coloured with chocolate-hued shadow which is smudged to create an intense smoky effect. 

Key Influencers: @millieleer / @alissajanay / @daniellestrada / @chiaraadelgrosso / @stellafragkoulaki / @jacinta_spencer

Rising Hashtags: #lattemakeuplook 22.7M views / #bronzymakeup 50.9M views / #glowymakeup 1.1B views / #smokeyeye 967M views

3. “I ONLY WEAR…”

This recurring trend peaks at a time when cost-consciousness is at the forefront of consumers’ minds. It involves the frequent and multifunctional use of one favoured product, but can be applied to any product in the makeup kit, from concealer to lipstick.

Concealer: Applied in quantity, it ultimately replaces a foundation. It is applied to targeted areas of the face and blended, or used as contour.

Key Influencers: @teaspahiu / @froartistry / @luvyurselfboo

Rising Hashtags: #ionlywearconcealer 20.7M views / #fullcoverageconcealer 105.1M views / #onlyconcealermakeup 3.5M views

Lipstick: Here the idea is to demonstrate the possibility of the multifunctionality of a lipstick; it can be used as blush, eyeshadow or contouring stick, depending on its colour.

Key Influencers: @mimiermakeupusa/ @lenkalul/ @runscay

Lip Stain: Lip ink is applied generously to the lips, cheeks, eye area, left to dry and gently removed. The stain of colour lasts for several hours (or even days). TikTokkers are demonstrating the multifunctionality of the product, and showing how routines can be reduced down to one core product. 

Key Influencers: @suzi_sina / @cicihaskill / @gillianxgrace

THE CIC TAKE

With the release of Greta Gerwig’s blockbuster, we have finally reached peak #Barbiecore. While pink has proliferated, it has been interesting to see how a large quota of TikTokkers have used the moment to reassert messages of self-acceptance and individuality. The backlash again reaffirms how Gen Z likes to cast a critical creative eye on mainstream trends and subvert expectations. Success awaits brands that can leverage this desire for disruption.

Our latest Makeup Inspiration from the USA trend book explores the transformative power of makeup and takes a deep dive into the social shifts shaping the next phase of beauty. Contact us today for more information on how to get hold of your copy.

The figures and data in this article are dated July 2023.

INSPIRATION TOUR: SEOUL RETAIL SNAPSHOT

This month, CIC Chief Inspirations Officer Leila Rochet has been shopping and gallery hopping in Seoul, traversing the K-beauty capital to source the latest cult products, cutting-edge innovations and creative inspirations to feed the agency’s trend division.

When it comes to Beauty it’s hard to beat South Korea for innovation - from ground-breaking formulations, game-changing trend directions and awe-inspiring retail concepts. And retail has never been so dynamic, propelled by local brands that play with the codes of K-style.

Read on to discover 3 of Leila’s Seoul retail highlights:

1. ADER ERROR

518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, the space is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. Ader is also phygital retailing pioneer - customers can shop and try on goods virtually via Zepeto, take an online VR tour, or interact with in-store digital artworks and interfaces.

Inspiration Seeds: The store’s emphasis on experience encourages customers to truly discover, and engage with, the products. The giant fountain at the centre of the store is a highlight, but in the Ader world nothing is quite as it seems: a changing room can also double as a noraebang singing room, fixtures and fittings move on demand. 

2. WIGGLE WIGGLE.ZIP

1 Eonju-ro 168-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This joyful multilevel concept store truly lives up to the lifestyle brand’s motto of, “let's make the obvious fun”. And so, over four floors, you will discover a riot of super-colourful homewares, accessories, pet products, toiletries and trinkets featuring the brand’s signature flower or bear motif. 

Inspiration Seeds: A favourite with K-Pop icons including BLACKPINK’s Jennie, Wiggle Wiggle.Zip is unapologetically playful. The store features a number of key interactive areas that are primed for Instagram photos and TikTok videos, where shoppers can pose with props against colourful backdrops, hang around in ‘upside down’ rooms or try out toiletries in a section styled like a cutesy home bathroom. 


3. THE PERFUME CLUB BY SOOHYANG

28 Seongsui-ro 7-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul

Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This unique perfume gallery plays to rising connoisseurship by presenting a library of scents. Situated in a former perfume factory, the under-the-radar retail space and workshop is purposefully moody and mysterious, creating a sophisticated environment in which to discover luxury scents by Soohyang. 

Inspiration Seeds: This hidden gem in the upcoming neighbourhood of Seongsu is dedicated to the discovery of new scents. Presented as a social space where people can come together over a common interest in scent, it is a unique space that perfectly illustrates Seoulista’s rising interest in perfumes.

The CIC Take:

Our bespoke Inspiration Tours are uniquely tailored guides to key cities covering retail, galleries, museums, architectural hot spots, and the coolest places to eat and drink. Our partners, Latitude37, are our boots-on-the-ground in Seoul, and as local retail experts - we work closely with the Latitude team to ensure our guides are packed with the latest hotspots and openings.

Following our recent research trip, we can also compile a detailed Retail Report where we will explore the latest openings, consumer shifts and social influences impacting Seoul’s dynamic retail scene.

If you are interested in an Inspiration Tour of Seoul (or any other Beauty city) or a Retail Report please drop us a line today to discuss your needs!

All pictures are from our Agency and copyright protected. Please do not share without prior approval.

TIKTOK: How Current Affairs, TV & CINEMA Shape Beauty Trends

Sources: @daniellemarcan - @chicwithkels - @thisartperson

TikTok analysis allows us to take the pulse of the Beauty consumer, and track their current priorities and motivations, in real-time. This month, current affairs and key moments from trending TV series and just-released movies are rapidly repurposed and translated into makeup moments. 

Epiphenomena and "fait divers" play a crucial role in shaping TikTok beauty trends. This is when unexpected and seemingly unrelated events capture public attention and inspire creative interpretations within the beauty community.

Even events that on the surface appear wholly unrelated to beauty become unique storytelling opportunities for makeup enthusiasts. In recent weeks, the Titan submarine tragedy sparked interest in #titanic makeup tutorials as the contemporary incident brushed up against historical tragedy and filmic icon.

TikTok's fast-paced and viral nature is the perfect conductor for amplifying the influence of epiphenomena, transforming news stories and pop culture events into catalysts for innovative and engaging beauty trends that capture the collective imagination.

 

1. Mermaidcore

Mermaidcore rises once again, resurfacing off the back of the release of the hit film Ariel, starring Halle Bailey. Mermaids are an enduring reference point for fantasy femininity - at New York Fashion Week, Bach Mai showed a siren-inspired collection, complete with fishtail silhouettes, shimmering fabrics and iridescent makeup. Megan Thee Stallion also made her triumphant return to the red carpet in a mermaidesque gown made by the designer.

TikTokkers are taking inspiration from the mythical sea creature to create luminous and enchanting makeup looks that are defined by the use of light chromatic palettes in shades of blue and off-white. Looks are strongly inspired by the #angelicmakeup trend (64.8M views), where the complexion is fresh and light, and amplified by highlighter and pink blush. Eyes are innocent and soft, with a preference for light shades such as white or sky blue in iridescent or chrome, and the ethereal look is finished off with cultured pearls to the face. Hair is either worn loose and wavy or slicked back with products for a just-out-of-the-water #wethairlook (104.3M views).

Rising Hashtags:

#mermaidaesthetic: 128.8M views / #mermaidcore: 318.1M views / #glittereyeshadow: 1.1B views / #chromemakeup: 82.5M views / #sirenmakeuplook: 4.1M views

Key Influencers:

@thisartperson / @evamillersha

2. Titanic Comeback

The recent tragedy of Titan, the submersible that imploded during its descent into the North Atlantic Ocean on an expedition to view the wreck of the Titanic, captured global attention. For over a week, the search and rescue mission dominated the news cycle.

TikTok’s unique algorithm and its role as Gen Z’s preferred search engine means that new stories often, organically, become trending topics on the platform. As users are flooded with associated hashtags that prompt discovery, a simple news story can become the genesis of myriad trends.

In this context, the all-pervading Titan story led consumers to rediscover the story of the original Titanic, pushing James Cameron’s 1997 movie back up the Netflix rankings. Makeup influencers have been recreating the makeup look of the film’s leading character, Rose (played by Kate Winslet), which is typified by a creamy complexion, soft pink blush, taupe eye shadow and matte red lips. Full brows and auburn ringlets complete the look.

Rising Hashtags:

#titanicmakeup: 1.4M views / #titaniccosplay: 1.1M views / #rosedawson: 4M views

Key Influencers:

@geenahunt / @msmaverickmuse / @yanabelyaeva_

 3. The Idol Look

The HBO series The Idol proves that controversy is the perfect catalyst for creativity. Starring Lily-Rose Depp and The Weekend, the sexually-charged series follows the relationship between a failing pop singer and an enigmatic club owner/cult leader.  While the show’s confrontational sex scenes have hit the headlines, it has also captured the imagination of Gen Z thanks to its sleazy-glam aesthetic that leans into Euphoria territory. 

Influencers are recreating two key looks of Jocelyn (played by Depp) - her on-stage look (glitter, graphic-lined eyes inspired by Y2K Britney and Christina Aguilera) and her everyday look (sultry, matte lips, smokey eyes, natural skin).


Rising Hashtags:

#lilyrosedeppmakeup: 36.2M views / #theidolemakeup: 6.9M views / #lilyrosedeep: 3.6B views

Key Influencers:

@kristinaamcnabb / @daniellemarcan / @romaneinnc

The CIC Take

Gen Z, being avid consumers of entertainment media, eagerly embrace the beauty looks and styles portrayed by their favorite characters. Iconic on-screen aesthetics find their way onto TikTok, where users enthusiastically recreate and adapt them to their own personal style.

The influence of news, streaming series and cinema on beauty trends reflects the power of storytelling and visual media in shaping cultural norms and inspiring creativity among younger generations.

 

MakeUp in Paris 2023 - Key Innovations From The Show

.

This year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, held at the Carrousel du Louvre on June 14 and 15 2023, provided a typically insightful two days. Exhibitors, spanning the global colour cosmetics sector, showed formulations and packaging that overall emphasised sustainability and technological innovation, promising to propel Beauty into a far more responsible and progressive space. 

Thank you to everyone who stopped by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation booth - whether it was introducing you to the work of the agency or catching up with existing clients and old friends - it was an absolute pleasure. Inbetween hosting our Inspiration Bar we took the opportunity to scout the show for the latest innovations and soak up inspiration from the lively conference schedule. 

From eco-lipstick cases to next-gen bio-blenders and formulas which champion hybridisation and sensoriality read on to discover the agency’s key highlights and takeaways from this year’s event.


Innovation Winners

Day #1 kicked off with the Innovation and Trend (IT) Awards - where a jury of 10 industry professionals honoured the most innovative products and tools being showcased at the event. Here are this year’s winners:

Ticking boxes on sustainability, adaptability and on-the-go functionality, the Multi-Intensity Brush from Texen allows users to create complete makeup looks with a single brush. A rotating mechanism allows users to adjust the length and density of the tuft to accommodate a number of different applications. The brush’s tuft, handle and ferrule can also be customised in terms of shape and material, and the product can also be developed for eyes and lips.

Formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients and exclusively certified natural cosmos raw materials, this injectable powder marries ultra-sensoriality with sustainability. The powders have been developed without the use of microplastics, talc, silicones and my synthetic film-forming agents. The result is a high-touch, high-performance creamy texture that delivers a high-impact shine.

Within the same category, Aircos (Anjac Health & Beauty Group) received a special commendation for their Hypnotic Very Noir compact eyeshadow. Featuring a creamy-powdery texture and an intense, golden-black metallic effect, the shadow.

This highly sensorial blush doubles down on delivering skincare benefits, thanks to the infusion of watermelon pulp and seed oil. Creamy and ultra-blendable, the blush has a delicate watermelon fragrance. The innovative case, designed by Belotti, also features floating pigments and active ingredients inside the base, resembling watermelon seeds. A great example of how to create a playful product packed with functionality. 

Receiving a special mention for technical innovation, Chromavis Fareva for Maya, features a new technology enabling multi-colour heat-cast visuals with high relief and definition down to 1 centimetre. It was presented in a cast texture formulated with 94% natural ingredients, extra slippery, creamy and enveloping, contrasting with the vibrant, deep colours and 3D relief.

The environmental impact of this product is two-fold - the case is 100% aluminum (including the cap and shell) while the refillable mechanism adds a further facet of sustainability. The case itself can be customised with a range of finishes. 

The CIC Take

If you dropped by our booth during the show and would like to continue the conversation, drop us a line today to discuss how we can bring our Inspiration Bar directly to you, stocked with products to your specification!

The next edition of MakeUp in Paris will be held on May 29-30 2024