The Age of Connection: 5 Predictions for 2023 and Beyond

CATRIN DAVIES December 22, 2022

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation presents 5 key predictions that will shape the Beauty industry in 2023 and beyond, as we look ahead with optimism, creativity and conviction.

Through a period of polycrisis, consumers are discovering strengths that they never knew they had. They are more resilient, more adaptable and more connected than they ever realised. And if recent global events have proven anything, it is that health, freedom, and the future of the planet are all deeply interwoven. The success of one relies on the success of another.

“Our future is symbiotic. And yet, the desire for individual recognition and expression remains a prescient driver. As we move forward, consumers will continue to explore the special tension that exists between collective responsibility and personal growth, and between the quest for the optimised self and for globalised empathy,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

For a deep dive into 4 of these key trends, we hope you can join us at the next edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles, on February 16 & 17 2023. Leila Rochet will be hosting a series of Beauty Talks where she will be joined by industry insiders to explore many of the themes outlined below. See the trends illustrated through the latest products sourced from all over the globe at our Inspiration Bar .

Book your place here!

The predictions:

1. Eco-Collectivism: From Sustainability to Augmented Empathy

Armed with increased knowledge, consumers will drive brands even harder to alter their behaviours in order to recenter humanity, source with respect, honour community and support rigorous ethical practices. In 2023 brands must become empathetic ambassadors, and respond to a new generation of eco-socio intellectuals.

Results from the 2022 UEBT Biodiversity Barometer demonstrate there is now a global consensus that while planetary health is a clear priority in the minds of consumers, so are issues surrounding workers' rights and equality. Sustainability issues are now rightly being understood in the context of wider geo-political events. Taking a strong stand on bio-diversity, French brand Eclo is a clean eco-native that only works with ingredients that are local to its Brittany HQ and which also help regenerate the soil and the seabed.

Taking a collective responsibility approach, Indigenous-owned brands often balance respect for nature with individual growth. Operating within this type of intrinsically holistic value system The Yukon Soaps Company uses native, wild botanicals hand-picked by elders and local young people. The brand teaches harvesting practices that foster an emotional connection to the land. Through these shared experiences, the company triggers acts of healing within the Yukon community.

2. Artphoria: From Colour-Dosing to Creative-Finessing

Gen Z’s takeover of social media has created a space where niche is the norm, and micro-expressions are the new mainstream. This mindset shapes a new generation of beauty connoisseurs, who bring a fine art approach and an exacting attitude to the beauty sphere. As consumer confidence grows and their skills continue to develop thanks to the TikTok explosion, we see a growing desire to express individuality through exquisite artistry.

Daring to be rare is something to be encouraged by brands, and those that speak to individuality and trigger creativity through wild innovation will gain traction. Pleasing is a brand that inspires consumers to master micro-artistry, coupled with an approach that is embracive of every identity. Its ultra-inclusive storytelling paves the way for a “Flat Age Society” where traditional age segmentation has diminishing influence. Pleasing also encapsulates another key element - escapism.

3. Future ArchiTech: From Innovation Hunters to Progress Pioneers

The answer to tomorrow's challenges lies in adopting a science-first and solution-focused approach. This mindset is permeating the beauty sector, where radical innovation is welcomed by today’s logical and results-driven consumers. Younger generations are facing global challenges with a practical mindset, leaning into science and technology to forge world-changing solutions. STEM careers (science, technology, engineering and maths) are now the #1 attraction for Gen Z, according to a recent study, with particular popularity among females and people of colour.

Brands must embrace this appetite for innovation, leaning into other categories for inspiration to deliver game-changing solutions. Aeir is one such beauty brand that is using the latest technology to develop future-facing products. Combining their experiences at Tesla and the École Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne (ECAL), the brand founders have created a next-gen wellness fragrance that utilises NASA technology, zero extraction, bioengineering and generations-old craftsmanship.

Engineered nature will also propel the sustainability narrative in 2023, as more brands invest in bio-science innovation to deliver smart, and green, solutions. In 2022 we saw Ulé (France) and Monday Musem (South Korea) lead the way with the adoption of vertical farming techniques. At Ulé, experts create plant extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris, which allows the brand to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant in the process. Monday Museum’s Pink Inspiration Cream Drop uses red clovers cultivated using smart farm technology that is said to save up to 70% energy.

4. The Optimised Self: Exploring the Personal Ecosystem

We are entering an era of intimately adaptive beauty that responds to the individual or is tailored specifically for individual needs. Deep care is delivered on both an emotional and physical level as personal healing becomes a priority. Science and technology are leveraged to understand and accentuate your individuality, with an emphasis on inner beauty rather than aesthetic transformations.

The continued fetishization of health and immunity will drive the creation of unexpected territories, ushering in new opportunities for beauty supplements, skin-optimising trackers, AI-aided personalization, and at-home beauty devices that deliver ultra-bespoke and professional results. In fact, consumer interest in beauty tech is set to continue to increase continuously over the next five years, reaching $8.93 billion by 2026.

With personal growth and self-improvement becoming central drivers, brands are expanding the opportunities for health and well-being optimization. Homecare brand byMATTER has added a bio-active bedding collection to its range of cleaning products, which is designed to optimise skin health. Pillowcases made from Seawell, an innovative material formulated with seaweed and enriched with collagen, facilitate an exchange of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants between fabric and skin while users are asleep.

Providing a wellness wearable that restores inner balance, Lokai is a holistic bracelet infused with white beads that contain Himalayan water (a ‘high’ ingredient) and black beads containing clay sourced from the Dead Sea (a ‘low’ ingredient). The idea is that the secret ingredients will keep wearers hopeful and humble, accordingly.

5. The Emotional Biome: From Self-Care to Mind-Care

In a world that is perceived as super fragile, there is a heightened focus on mental wellness, brain care and psychological healing. Beauty that delivers emotional benefits on top of functional benefits will gain traction, as consumers look to balance feelings of vulnerability with products and experiences that simultaneously provide care and protection.

Consumers will also use beauty as a means of expressing their innermost feelings, as they re-focus on personal growth and inner tranquillity. The role of functional fragrances will become heightened, as consumers and brands explore the idea that perfume can deliver benefits that go way beyond scent. This is an idea explored by American light artist James Turrell who has developed a collection of crystal light panels and perfumes for Lalique, which play on the abstract concept of the light we see in our dreams. Turrell brings this ethereal quality to life in the form of tangible colour but also in the form of an abstract emotion, pushing “beyond what we think we know”.

Beauty imbued with cerebral and cognitive influence will play to the growing brain care category. Brain health supplements are forecast to grow at a CAGR of 8.3% from 2022 to 2030, as consumers explore new routes to optimise mind-care.

(Image: Anna Shvets via Pixels)

FROM LIVING WELL TO AGEING WEll…WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO GROW OLD?

CATRIN DAVIES November 18, 2022

Anti-aging is often cited as a top concern among beauty consumers, and yet, the very definition of what it means to age (and specifically to “get old”) is changing. A recent survey by Toluna x Harris Interactive reveals French consumers’ shifting perceptions of aging.

This interesting survey provides numerous insights on consumers perception and attitude towards ageing. We made a deep dive into the published results to highlight the report’s key takeaways and explore what this means for the Beauty industry.

The perception of ageing - a state of mind

According to the French, it’s impossible to assign a number to old age. When asked at what age one can consider someone as “being old”, 50% refuse to give a precise answer. However, on average, most respondents consider “old” to be 68 years, although this estimation differs widely depending on the age of the respondent (ranging from an average of 58 years for those under 35 to 74 years for those 65 and over). The perception of what it means to “be old” also depends on the social context. In a corporate context, the French consider the threshold to be lower at 54 years.

In fact, in the eyes of the French, age is much more a question of state of mind (85%) or state of health (81%) than chronological age (50%). Younger people, on the other hand, attach much more importance to age (73% among 18–24-year-olds).

Ageing synonymous of positive values

The French express a very optimistic image of maturity. For them, being ”old” means above all being able to pass on their life experience to others (88%), having more perspective (85%), and having more time for themselves (83%) and for their loved ones (81%).

While some negative aspects are also associated with old age - considering that things were better before (71%), no longer understanding young people (62%), or having a less full social life (51%) - the French refuse to associate age with disconnection from society.

The French say they enjoy the company of their elders, especially when they are part of their family: 90% say they enjoy spending time with “old” family members.

From bliss to risks: Ambivalent feelings

The French are relatively calm about the prospect of their own aging, 71% of them claim to be serene (but only 16% consider themselves very serene), while 29% admit to feeling anxious. However, these feelings differ by gender: while 80% of men say they are serene, only 63% of women say the same.

This serenity stems from the fact that the French associate old age with several positive life stages: access to property, settling down as a couple, having children, having grandchildren. However, other stages show that serenity in the face of advancing age remains relative.

French people accept that there are certain markers of advancing age, such as a change in their physical appearance and feeling disconnected from the vocabulary and expressions of young people. However, age-related pain and cognitive decline are far greater concerns. 42% of French people say they are especially afraid of the risk of becoming dependent, and this prospect is much more worrying than the risk of isolation (15%) or changes in physical appearance (14%).

An aging society: A challenge and an opportunity

The rapidly aging population is seen as both a challenge - the need to rethink social models - and an opportunity - the chance to make money. French consumers are concerned as to how well society is prepared for this demographic change: only 46% believe that it is well anticipated, dropping to 38% among those 65 and older.

The fate of their elders is a real matter of concern for French people. Even after the Covid-19 crisis, two-thirds of French people (66%) consider that we do not care enough about the health of seniors in general. Thus, the 65+ age group feels that their financial situation (82%) and their opinion (81%) are not given enough attention.

The CIC Take:

The industry must change the semantics around aging to reflect consumers’ more positive attitudes. Brands should increase representation of older skin types, taking a true-aging rather than anti-aging approach.
Consumers are more concerned with aging healthily than reversing the aging process. Brands must take a holistic approach to the aging category.
Middle age is a key territory for innovation - consumers in this demographic are optimistic about the aging process but are currently being underserved and overlooked.

(Source: Toluna x Harris Interactive Les Zooms de l’Observatoire Cetelem 2022: Survey 2/3 What does aging mean?)

SOURCING WITH RESPECT - CONSUMER’S GROWING EXPECTATIONS

CATRIN DAVIES November 18, 2022

The Brazilian hero brand; Chinese consumers high expectation in sourcing of natural ingredients; and the consumer push for fair wages; the latest findings from the 2022 Union of Ethical BioTrade global survey reveal a picture of growing biodiversity awareness and an increasingly expectant consumer.

On October 19, 2022, Leila Rochet, CIC’s Chief Innovation Officer and also Consultant for the UEBT, was in Grasse for the annual UEBT conference, where the team unveiled the results of its latest global biodiversity survey, conducted by Harris Interactive/Toluna.

Since UEBT began back in 2009, the world looks like an entirely different place. Change that has never been so marked or occurred so rapidly than in the past two years. The pandemic forced everyone to take stock of their environment - quite literally - and since UEBT’s last in-person event in 2019, consumers have taken the time to get better informed on the impact of their purchases. In the interim years, they have grown to value brands and companies that act today to improve tomorrow.

Reflecting on this seismic consumer shift, the UEBT barometer was changed - moving on from measuring improvement of biodiversity awareness (which is now globally high) to focusing on more nuanced insights and behaviours. This year, a total of 14 questions were asked to more than 6,000 people spanning 6 countries (France, UK, Germany, Brazil, USA and China).

Below is a summary of the key findings:

1 - The Biodiversity Boom

Biodiversity is chosen by 21% of global consumers as their second most urgent concern, ranking second after climate change, from a pre-set list of five topics. In Brazil and China, biodiversity is ranked as number one, while in Germany, a country where biodiversity awareness is still low (76%), it ranks as the fourth most important concern after climate change, plastic pollution and forest loss.

What is clear is that biodiversity is of significant interest to consumers. In fact, 54% of those surveyed said it was very important to them to have information regarding a product’s impact on biodiversity listed on the product packaging or web page, only slightly lower in importance than the list of ingredients. This figure goes up to 61% amongst those consumers who have the highest awareness of biodiversity and reaches 61% among consumers who buy natural beauty brands. Respondents in Brazil appear to be particularly interested in these issues, scoring the highest for each item. Importance is also given to labels that validate a company’s ethical practices, being especially very important to consumers in Brazil (76%), China (46%) and France (42%).

2 - The Human Imperative

A total of 9 out of 10 respondents agree that it is the obligation of humans to protect nature, and 82% believe they can have an impact by buying products from companies that respect biodiversity. A figure that is also high on expectations they have regarding companies. 53% think it is a moral obligation for companies to respect biodiversity and the figure has increased since 2020. They want to be informed of the actions and expect companies to take a stand, for example, when the agreement for nature is adopted at the end of this year.

3 - Fairness and Ethical Practices

When asked to select the most important actions taken by companies from a pre-given list of 18 items, paying a fair price and a decent wage takes the #4 position. Ethical practices, especially relating to biodiversity and the protection of nature, are expected from brands. To note, in the Top Five, paying fair prices or decent wages and protecting the bees are mentioned by half of the sample as very important actions. These results are even higher among women below 30 years old. 57% said it is very important that companies address reforestation and 50% mentioned fair prices.

4 - Brands perceived as the most supportive of biodiversity

So which brands are considered to take most concrete action to respect people and biodiversity? Only a few brands clearly stood out spontaneously in all countries, except for Brazil. 72% of consumers could name just one beauty or food brand, with younger consumers, consumers aware of biodiversity and women being ahead of other cohorts.

In France, 25% of respondents mentioned Yves Rocher (in augmentation vs 2020). In Germany, Nivea is mentioned by 21% (with higher level among men). To note that 19% of natural brand purchasers cited Weleda (joint top with Nivea). In the UK, The Body Shop was mentioned by 24% of respondents ( 33% for female respondent)s. From the US, all figures are low - Burt's Bees’ heritage in beekeeping helps the brand score 12% overal. Like previous years, Natura emerges as the clear biodiversity champion in Brazil with 69% of mentions overall (up from 55% in 2020), rising to 73% amongst females over 30 years old. In China, L’Oréal reaches the first position with 21% and respondents mention more prestige brands.

The CIC Take:

Consumers are increasingly aligning respect for biodiversity with respect for people (in terms of fair wages, etc). Ethical practices (and therefore, transparency) are now top consumer priorities.
Opportunities exist for brands to own the natural/ green beauty conversation in their territories - with the exception of Brazil, there is no clear natural beauty hero brand.
Chinese consumers have high expectations and are important natural beauty brand buyers.

The UEBT Biodiversity Barometer Full report can be downloaded on the www.biodiversitybarometer.org website.

Traceability in Action: Elevating evidence over storytelling

CATRIN DAVIES November 14, 2022

As conscious consumption becomes ever more mainstream, Clarins’ new “field to client” traceability platform, T.R.U.S.T., gives access to every product’s digital passport.

According to the latest UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) report, 52% of consumers agree that it is very important for companies to communicate the origin of ingredients on their packaging or web pages. And consumers (54%) would also like to have information on how the product’s creation impacts biodiversity. Evidence clearly supports growing consumer interest in traceability and the power of transparency to drive purchase decisions.

According to Katalin Berenyi, Global General Manager of Clarins, “Clarins T.R.U.S.T., is our first traceability platform using blockchain technology, a breakthrough innovation in the beauty industry. Each of our guests can now use their product batch number to track all major steps of the product journey: from field, to factory, to their home.”

Clarins’ use of blockchain cleverly connects consumers to every product’s origin story, from the farms and fields where the brand sources its plants, to the factory in France where products are manufactured. The launch follows an industry-wide push to deliver deeper data around sourcing, safety and environmental impact.

Aveda was one of the first beauty brands to launch a blockchain traceability initiative back in 2019, and since then, brands including Guerlain (with its Bee Respect campaign) and vertical farming pioneers, Ulé, have made traceable innovation central to their brand story.

Consumers, however, are not convinced that companies do act positively on people and biodiversity – 24% of those surveyed say they are confident that companies pay serious attention to ethical sourcing of biodiversity.

The CIC Take:

The launch of T.R.U.S.T marks another significant milestone in the journey to transparency and sets the tone for a new era of evidence-based marketing for the Beauty industry.

GYM BEAUTY - From Sweat-care to self-care

CATRIN DAVIES September 8, 2022

Consumers’ hyper-concentration on all things health-related has spawned a wealth of recent product launches aimed at the post-pandemic Wellness Seeker. Now, beauty brands are taking to the gym and creating a new space for cosmetics and skincare products that address the physiological shifts experienced before, during and after workouts.

Pushing beyond performance

We’ve seen brands successfully tap the workout market before, with targeted makeup products primed to withstand intense performance (see, CliniqueFIT launched in 2017 and Tarte ’s 2016 line ) but the latest iteration of gym beauty involves a more holistic approach. Where previously brands have focused on gym-proof makeup, today’s consumer is not solely concerned with maintaining their glow on the treadmill. Consumers are looking for products that continue working well after their workout has ended, addressing their post-exercise skincare needs, actively smoothing, soothing and tightening, and enhancing their overall gym experience.

This month Revolution unveiled its new GYM line - a collection of products (including workout accessories) that are formulated not just to hold up to exercise but to actively address workout-specific skincare needs. Featuring products that respectively cool, relieve, tighten and firm the skin, the range also includes a metal Gua Sha and face roller to lift and sculpt, taking the body-boosting narrative one step further.

A new space for self-care

In light of the post-Covid wellness surge, Revolution has spotted an opportunity to connect with consumers through the introduction of new self-care rituals centred around the workout experience. Shifting the emphasis away from pure endurance makeup to consider broader gym-related beauty needs from a wellness perspective, Revolution is carving out new territory.

It joins other brands that are leveraging the demand for more holistic care, such as the UK brand Face Gym which builds on the idea of “facial fitness”, providing a workout for the face through the use of multiple tools inspired by the kind of equipment usually found in the yoga studio. Face Gym has successfully developed a narrative of aesthetic care in a sport-inspired environment. In the US, the upsurge of wellness athleisure has seen leading brands including Lululemon and Alo Yoga expand beyond yoga pants into beauty lines. These brands are transitioning from their focus on “studio-to-street” fashion, and are moving towards the for “studio-to-beauty” expansions. Deeply rooted in mindfulness and wellbeing, such products will be sure to interest beauty buyers in their quest for self-optimising, self-care brands.

THE CIC TAKE:

To tap this emerging sector, brands must go beyond performance-proof cosmetics and consider the wider wellness opportunity that lies in developing pre-and-post workout products, tapping the growing demand for whole body and mind care. Embrace fitness semantics to engage health-focused beauty buyers who will take every opportunity to optimise their wellbeing.

SOCIETAL WELLNESS - REDEFINING BEAUTY

CATRIN DAVIES August 17, 2022

Driven by the idea of collective responsibility, consumers are redefining the concept of care, moving the emphasis away from the self and onto their community. Brands are being challenged to follow where sentiment is leading, and more than ever before, beauty in the US is being seen as a rallying voice for change.

In our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, we explore the trend for Societal Wellness, where values-driven consumers are challenging brands to take a stand on the big issues and address beauty’s developing role as a therapeutic medium.

As the US grapples with a mental health crisis (10.6% of young people in the US identify as having severe depression, with multiracial youth at the most risk) and growing division over reproduction rights, now is not the time for brands to stay silent. Brands that fail to stand up and be counted may lose the support of their core consumerbase - one in four Gen Z will not spend with a brand that does not take a stance on the big issues. Intrinsic values trump external validation for this powerful cohort.

Below is a taster from our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, where we explore the trend for Societal Wellness through three distinct pathways:

SOUL-CARE - BEYOND WELLNESS

In the grip of a mental health crisis, consumers are seeking solutions that lie outside of conventional thinking and practices. This creates an interesting opportunity for beauty brands, particularly as consumers become more open to alternative treatments that allow them to access deeper emotional healing. Brands are exploring the universes that exist around spiritual wellness, medicinal psychedelics and ritualistic healing in order to engage consumers with the pursuit of a deeper wellness that goes beyond the surface.

ACCESSIBILITY ENHANCED - BEAUTY FOR ALL

As consumers propel the momentum around social awareness, Pride celebrations and Black History Month are growing in significance as opportunities to bring attention to the contributions, and struggles, of marginalized people. In this context, consumers are challenging brands to deliver on their diversity best practices, and move forward with BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ talent at the fore. NPD reports that in the 12 months ending in February 2022, Black-founded beauty sales increased by 45%, while the rest of the market grew by 30%.

POLITIBEAUTY - BRANDS FOR CHANGE

As we live through a period marred by huge civil unrest and global crisis, brands are realizing that they need to be vocal in order to connect with today’s politicized consumers. In the wake of the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe Vs Wade, many key beauty brands have taken a bold stance on abortion rights and issues around women’s equality. The pro-choice message chimes with the overwhelming backlash to the verdict amongst Gen Z . Since the decision was made, well over 100 beauty and wellness brands have joined the Don’t Ban Equality coalition to protect access to reproductive healthcare.

A full copy of the report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now. Drop us a line for more details, and discover an in-depth analysis of the US makeup sector through six emerging universes and 18 pathways to innovation.

A SNAPSHOT OF FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRENDS - FOCUS ON COLOR

CATRIN DAVIES August 10, 2022

As part of our ongoing partnership with intelligence platform, Spate, we dive into the data behind their latest consumer report and decode what it means for the French and US beauty sectors.

“Spate’s rich data analysis brings deeper insight to our understanding of these distinct markets,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “We are able to leverage Spate’s search analysis data to confirm our prospective vision. It also helps us to better understand nuanced cultural differences and consumer behaviours.”

Spate’s latest report reveals the behavioural specificities emerging from each market. Here are our three major takeaways from the July 2022 France & America: Hair & Makeup Trends Report:

The rise of warm red tones for hair color

In both countries, warm red tones dominate search volume changes. In France, searches for ginger hair are +2.0K; burgundy +1.3K; auburn +1K; and copper +700. While red is the warmest color for French consumers, rising interest in babylights (+1.1K) also suggests a desire for subtlety. Likewise, in the US, red hair is the most searched for hair color with a volume increase of +213.4K, with copper (+36.2K), auburn (+35.8K), ginger (+32.3K) and red highlights (+29.0K) also all featuring in the top ten.

Across both countries consumers are using more nuanced search descriptors to find their desired hair shade, often searching for various colors alongside red hair, demonstrating a growing desire for tonal color with dimension and depth - as well as suggesting a desire for individuality.

As we noted from Spate’s previous report on the US/France skincare market, French consumers lean into the classics - and the hair color category is no exception, with L’Oreal holding out as the most searched-for brand. However, US consumers appear to be more open to challenger brands, such as overtone (+1.4K), adore hair colour (+350) and creme of nature (+260), which top out as the brands with the greatest search volume increase YoY.

Lipstick at the centre of interest

Lipsticks score high by search volume increase in both countries (+14% in France, +37,5% in the US). It is therefore not surprising that lipstick sales have seen a + 28% rise in Q2 -2022 in the US according to NPD.

Long-wear and glossy are at the top of the list for French consumers (+1.7K and +1.1K respectively), while shine (+35.2K) and lasting (+16.1K) score highest for the US.

Interestingly for a country so defined by its love of the classics, magic/colour-changing lipstick is a rising category for French consumers, breaking into the top three most-searched-for benefits with an increase of +770 YoY.

Eyeliners shift from classic to contemporary

Searches for eyeliner are at +8.9% in France and +11% in the US. While white and brown eyeliner are owning overall search volume in both territories, blue eyeliner is also increasingly growing on the consumer radar (+230 in France and +19.1K in the US). Green is also breaking through in the US at +12.5K, with classic black dropping into third place for both countries.

The CIC Take

French consumers are slowly shifting away from the classics, and are exhibiting growing interest in on-trend, contemporary colors and formulations. The uptick in searches for more niche lipstick benefits (such as ‘color-changing’, ‘waterproof’ and ‘sheer’) present opportunities for brands to inspire with innovative new concepts. What is emerging is a shift towards greater expressions of individuality, which is apparent in growing searches for nuanced hair colors and bolder eyeliners.

Download the full report here.

What’s Next

The agency will explore this opportunity in detail at the upcoming MakeUp in New York event, where Leila will be joined by Olivier Zimmer and Addison Cain of Spate to discuss the major global drivers fuelling the appetite for pleasure and individual expression. In the second of four Beauty Talks hosted by the agency at Makeup in New York, Leila, Olivier and Addison will deep dive into Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure, leveraging the most recent Spate consumer data insights, based on the analysis of online search data from the US, France and the UK.

Meet the team at the MakeUp in New York, September 14 & 15, 2022 at River Pavilion - Javits Center, New York

Beauty Talk #2 - Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure

September 14, 3:30 pm – 4:15 pm at the Beauty Agora

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

CATRIN DAVIES July 4, 2022

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses.

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K. Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K).

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three. The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K. Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches. The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319.

CIC TAKE

The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.
With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.
Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.

The post-pandemic skincare reboot

CATRIN DAVIES June 10, 2022

Healthy not perfect, is the new skincare mantra, as consumers prioritize care for the long term over short-term beautification. In our latest skincare report, A New State of Being: Inspiration from the US, we highlight the trend for Rebooted Defense, as consumers shift to a prevention-over-cure mindset.

With summer approaching, suncare and skin health are at the forefront of our minds, as we explore three pathways to innovation for brands looking to tap the rebooted skincare consumer:

1/ The barrier boom: The interest in the skin barrier has accelerated within younger consumer demographics, largely thanks to the educational content pushed by derma-influencers on TikTok- the hashtag #skinbarrier has clocked over 300 million views. Derma-positioned products are accelerating as consumers become more cautious, moving away from the goal of short term glow toward long term health. In this context, barrier cream is rising on the consumer radar - according to Spate, there are 8.5K searches on average every month in the US for ‘Barrier Repair’, a surge of +67.9% on last year. Pitched at Gen Z consumers, Byoma is an accessible, affordable, and approachable skincare brand that strengthens the skin and boosts the skin barrier with simple, effective formulations. Taking an educational approach, they explain the why and the how behind skin barrier repair on their Instagram.

2/ Hybridised suncare: In the US, more than 9,500 people are diagnosed with skin cancer every day, and rates of melanoma have been rising rapidly over the last thirty years. With no more Covid restrictions and sunnier days driving Americans to spend increasing amounts of time outdoors, skintellectual consumers are seeking products that double-down on offering UV protection whilst maintaining a healthy biome. This is giving rise to the hybridisation of the sun-skincare categories, with many suncare native brands now widening the scope of their range. Sun Bum, which was known solely as a surfer’s sun protection brand, launched into the skincare sector in June 2021. The launch of Cay Skin the from Winnie Harlow under the motto "a skincare brand for everyone under the sun," is the perfect illustration of the new generation of suncare products: inclusive - with textures adapted to all skintones, skincare driven - with a custom blend of gentle island-based ingredients and high performance skincare actives and sustainable (silicone free- reef safe).

3/Skincare takes a trip: Consumer understanding of ‘health’ now encompasses both mental and physical vulnerabilities, with the skin being the barometer of internal health and general wellbeing. Alternative new wellness spaces and practices are emerging that meet contemporary lifestyle demands, with nature, medicine and micro-dosing converging to challenge conventional thinking. This preventative mindset is fuelling demand for alternative treatments and experiences that are designed to boost mental health, such as ketamine therapy, guided psychedelic trips and micro-dosing. Speaking to Vogue.com, Sarah Chapman points toward self-care’s important role in maintaining mental wellbeing; “a radiant, clear complexion is a strong indication that the body is in a healthy state.” Delivering an emotional boost through the power of scent, The Nue Co’s The Mind & Body Fragrance is a unisex fragrance supplement that invigorates mental energy and boosts focus, using patented olfactory technology.

The CIC Take: In the post-pandemic reboot, psycho-biological care presents an exciting new sub-category for skincare brands to merge physical and emotional health. As our knowledge of the effect external aggressors can have on our skin increases, our approach to skincare is changing to one of defense and protection. Hitched to this is a growing understanding of physio-emotional synchronicity, as the skin becomes a barometer of our holistic wellbeing.

For a detailed dive into Rebooted Defense and other key US skincare trends, our extensive report, A NEW STATE OF BEING: Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now.

London Calling! Inspiration Tours Return

CATRIN DAVIES June 6, 2022

London calling!

After months of silence, new retail concepts are emerging. Here is a quick recap from our latest Inspiration Tour, where we uncovered inspiring new hot spots, and immersive pop-ups.

JACQUEMUS x Selfridges

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

name: Jacquemus Le Bleu

type: Fashion & Accessories

location: Selfridges, London

design: Random Studio, Jacquemus

dates: 03.05.22 – 04.06.22

At London department store Selfridges, French fashion designer Simon Jacquemus has unveiled a series of surrealist pop-up installations, including a luxury bag vending machine and a swimming pool-inspired changing room. Titled, Le Bleu, the immersive space is a surrealistic interpretation of the designers’ own bathroom.

Customers can shop the pop-up for exclusive colorways of the label's Chiquito and Bambino bags, as well as a mix of hoodies, tees, and select items from the recent Le Splash collection. Playing with the conventional retail format, customers can also access a 24-hour vending machine which is located behind the main store. The machines are filled with rows of bags and accessories, allowing customers to shop any time of day or night.

The CIC Take: This exciting project combines exclusive products with immersive experiences, and continues to reinforce Selfridge's position as London’s leading experiential retailer. Le Bleu strategically targets Gen Z, captivating customers through engaging new retail formats that organically gain traction on digital platforms such as Instagram and TikTok.

2. BALENCIAGA, New Bond Street

name: Balenciaga

type: Fashion & Accessories

location: 24/25 New Bond Street, London

design: Sub, Demna

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

Balenciaga’s latest London store follows the brand’s ambition to redefine luxury from the low points of the pandemic. The result, created in collaboration with Berlin design studio, Sub, is a modern take on raw luxury.

The interior reveals the bones of the building; exposed elements, an industrial material palette of concrete, resin and stainless steel, and limited use of virgin materials result in a striking, Brutalist space that challenges customers to look at products in a different way.

Dutch Designer Tejo Remy, created stand-out furniture for the store, including seating made from compacted bales of deadstock clothing, provoking shoppers to reconsider the lifecycle of materials.

The CIC Take: Balenciaga’s new store design strategy challenges customers to reassess the codes of luxury. Moreover, Balenciaga is taking a low-key approach to promoting store openings – an approach we have seen many brands testing, as consumers become wary of the hard sell method.

3. GLOW BAR, Mortimer Street

name: Glow Bar

type: Beauty services

location: 70 Mortimer Street, London

Glow Bar focuses on holistic stress management solutions, alongside a retail, spa and cafe environment - it’s a unique self-care destination where women can drink adaptogen elixirs and then sweat out the stress in a state-of-the-art infrared sauna.

Sasha Sabapathy founded Glow Bar with the mission to help other women manage their stress levels by applying the strategies she learned to combat her own anxiety, which includes drinking adaptogenic herbal remedies, taking regular infrared saunas, aromatherapy and, of course, crystals.

The CIC Take: Glow bar is an exciting new wellness retail concept where beauty, wellbeing and skincare blend with socialising and community-building. The space provides shopping, treatments, and a café all under one roof to create a true wellness lifestyle destination - specifically targeted at addressing women’s physiomotional needs.

4. GLOSSIER, King Street

name: Glossier

type: Makeup, skincare

location: 43 King St Covent Garden, London

design: Glossier

Located in one of Covent Garden piazza’s oldest surviving buildings, Glossier’s first international outpost impressively marries grandeur with modernity. Designed by the brand’s in-house team, the store is bathed in Glossier’s signature pink hue, with marble accents, perforated metal walls and parquet flooring. Original architectural features including arches and cornices add to the sense of opulence. In-store features include mirrors emblazoned with Glossier's slogan, "You Look Good”, and a "wet bar" where shoppers can play with testers and freshen up at individual sinks.

The CIC Take: The store design playfully balances heritage with Glossier’s fresh, modern style to create a dynamic space filled with tactile architectural elements. The “wet bar” sampling area represents a welcome return to in-store testing, encouraging touch and play in the post-pandemic beauty space.

OUR INSPIRATION TOURS ARE BACK…

Feeling inspired? For a more detailed tour of London’s vibrant beauty scene - from the legacy department stores to the latest pop-ups, the cult boutiques to the indie disruptors - then drop us a line to find out all you need to know about our curated Beauty Tours.

Come and join our team on an inspirational retail safari through London’s brightest and best beauty hot pots.

A Snapshot of French and American Trends - Focus on Skincare

CATRIN DAVIES May 30, 2022

To announce our new partnership with Spate, we kick off a series of updates from the Google search specialists with a deep dive into the latest consumer data analysis from the French Beauty sector.

“We have been using the Spate US tool to support our Trend reports for two years now - it has become an invaluable asset as it allows us to enrich our research and observations with reliable, and insightful data. We are thrilled that the company is extending into France and other countries, to bring a much clearer understanding of cultural trends and consumer shifts, on a global scale,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Understanding cultural specificities through country-specific data analysis is an incredibly useful tool - particularly in the case of France and the US where cultural and historical differences are more marked. The latest data from Spate allows us to better understand the differences and similarities trending in both countries.

French hooked on the classics:
The laser focus on skincare propelled by the pandemic is in decline, as French consumers shift their focus onto beautification. Yet, within the skincare space, what is emerging from Spate’s data is a picture of a French consumer who is hooked on classic products and brands, but with an eye on innovative ingredients that blend science with nature.
In the US market, novel and on-trend formats, such as face mask sticks (with an increase of +168.4K avg monthly searches) and gua sha oil (+7.2K avg monthly searches) are proving popular, while in France it is the trusted, classic products that are driving the most traffic. Serum tops out the most searched for in the face category (with a search volume increase of +4.8K avg monthly searches), with consumers looking for serum-based solutions to target spots, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. For the US consumer, anti-aging is the top concern with searches for ‘face serum + wrinkles’ averaging 21K searches per month.
Brand searches confirm natural and derma-brand interest:
Confirming the dominance of the classics in the French consumer psyche, Clarins is the most popular brand (+7.4K increase in average monthly searches), followed by other tried-and-tested brands including Caudalie (+7.2K avg monthly searches) and La Roche Posay (+3.7K avg monthly searches). The most popular Clarins product is the Clarins Double Serum, reflective of serums as the top change driver amongst French consumers.
Ingredient appeal - tech vs nature:
Despite interest in scientific ingredients being less prevalent amongst French consumers compared to those in the US, what is emerging is a rising interest in alternative plant-derived ingredients. Notably, carrot oil is experiencing a surge in France (searches are +7.75% YoY, averaging 2.3K per month). Spate notes that in France, searches for ‘huile de carotte peau claire’, (‘light skin carrot oil’), suggests consumers are using the ingredient to treat skin discoloration or lighten the skin.
Scientific actives are also having a bit of a moment (albeit more tentatively than when these ingredients began to spike in the US some years ago), represented in search volume increases for salicylic acid (+856 avg monthly searches), spironolactone (+357 avg monthly searches), and bakuchiol (+281 avg monthly searches). Also in ascendance is niacinamide, which has had a search surge of +35.8% YoY alongside skincare in 2022.

The CIC x Spate Take:

The classics reign in France. While US consumers are trend-led, French consumers are more comfortable with familiar, tried-and-tested brands and products. Yet, rising interest in scientific ingredients and innovative plant-derived alternatives presents an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers by revamping popular formats with exciting new ingredients.

About Spate: The Spate dashboard analyzes over 20 billion online search signals to answer crucial questions for the beauty and wellness industry. They launch their French data set this month. The figures in this article and the report include France & US Google Search from April 2021 to March 2022 vs. April 2020 to March 2021. Don’t hesitate to download the report here.

Join Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Leila Rochet for a unique Beauty Talk with Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, at Makeup in Paris on June 17 at 2:00 pm.

Announcing Ulé - An Intrapreneurial Venture

CATRIN DAVIES May 24, 2022

The launch of Ulé in early May marked the culmination of a two-year collaboration between our agency and the Shiseido Group. Rooted in innovation and transparency, Ulé is a truly ground-breaking new beauty brand.

“The goal of the brand is to respond to the growing concerns of consumers who are looking for more transparency from the industry as well as a prioritization of nature that integrates mindful technology to ensure uncompromising performance and safety,” explains Lindsay Azpitarte, Founder of Ulé. “With Ulé, the Shiseido Group is pioneering a new vision of beauty: reasoned beauty.”

1/ Born of an intrapreneurial mindset

The project was created in the spirit of “intrapreneurship” – a core team sitting within the Shiseido Group, guided and assisted by a blend of in-house and outside experts selected by the Creator Lindsay Azpitarte and Marketing Director Sandrine Henrie. The agency’s Leila Rochet brought her expertise in innovation, and was joined by formulation specialist Frederic Burtin, ethno-botanist Patrice André and nutritionist Beatrice de Reynal. This core team was also supported by the Shiseido structure, led by Christophe Hadjur, which oversaw the regulatory and manufacturing aspects of the launch.

The resulting brand structure marries the agility and ingenuity of a start-up with all the regulatory tools and testing processes of a 150-year old business.

2/ The vertical farming future

With transparency a driving motivation for Lindsay, finding a new way to bring potent, local ingredients to the formulation was key. Instead of sourcing from the other side of the world, usually in dry format, the scientists and experts worked on creating extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris. Working alongside urban agriculture start-up Tower Farm, Ulé is able to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant - leaf to root - in the process. This partnership ensures 100% traceable plants and 100% fresh extracts.

“With our indoor method, we can recreate a new land where the plant is preserved and avoids stress, like it's wrapped in cotton wool. This allows the true nature of the plant to be revealed and also gives us access to molecular profiles that have never been worked on before. We can be extremely innovative, even working with recognised plants," explains Patrice André, Ethnobotanist for Ulé.

Ulé has created an eco-venient local solution using less land and less water. Smart technology creates the perfect environmental conditions for every plant - 19 individual factors are monitored 24/7.

3/ Three complementary plants

Potent Ayurvedic plants that have been used since ancient times were selected for their synergistic effect on skin resilience; Coleus for protection, Centella for regeneration and Tulsi to destress. Combined, these plants represent the trifecta of botanical beauty.

4/ A unique method of extraction

The process of creating Ulé’s powerful botanic blend begins just 150km from the farm. The cold extraction method is inspired by age-old techniques and begins with extracting the water of the plant to create a concentrated extract, followed by the slow maceration of the plant to derive a pure botany tincture. This proprietary method has been developed by scientists to create the most potent extract of the three plants, which are at the core of all the serum formulas (at 55%).

5/ Positive vision of resilience

Ulé is a lifestyle brand that believes that beautiful skin is resilient, able to maintain its vitality and gracefully adapt to the changing world around it. The brand is infused with positivity and liveliness, approaching the botanical and sustainability space with zeal. Nature is respected, allowing users to find their joie de vivre.

This lightness is reflected throughout the brand’s narrative - product names are a twist of French and English such as Joie de Youth, Oh la Plump, Tout est Clear, and Avoir It All. Playful semantics are of course balanced with a rigorous dedication to efficiency; products are supplemented with peptides, hyaluronic acid, pre-pro-post biotics, and even CBD. And the brand supports its vision with skin, gender and age-inclusive visuals - every product has been tested on all tones of beauty phototypes..

6/ Keeping a sustainable mindset

True to Lindsay’s original vision, Ulé is built on the spirit of radical traceability. It is a rigorously local brand - 84% of ingredients are sourced in France, 96% of which are of minimum natural origin. Products are packaged in ultra-light glass bottles, bio-sourced Sudapac lids and printed with eco-responsible lacquers. With its laser focus on traceability and provenance, Ulé has developed products that travel just 340 km from seed to bottle.

CIC’s Take:

Tomorrow’s brands cannot succeed without a sustainably-minded approach - work on the concept of Conscious Beauty before even working on the project itself.

"I think that we should aim for 'reasoned beauty', i.e. acting transparently and consciously, realizing the impact of our actions. Innovation can no longer be just about performance and pleasure, it must also be accompanied by a holistic approach to improvement, and a more respectful attitude towards the skin, nature, the environment and towards people."

Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Why the US is the land of luxury opportunity

CATRIN DAVIES May 6, 2022

American consumers are in a flamboyant state of mind. Since the pandemic, the US has made an impressive economic recovery, with Bloomberg confirming the country’s status as a global leader in luxury consumerism. And according to Euromonitor’s Global Wealth and Luxury Report 2022, by 2030, the US will be home to the world’s largest population of high-net-worth individuals and ultra-high-net-worth individuals.

1- Revealing new luxuriant aspirations

Take inspiration from recent luxury launches, activations, and AW22 collections which capture the contemporary sophistication of the US luxurian.

Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta / Tom Ford

Overt Wealth: How do you show the world you’re a crypto-luxurian? A new limited-edition collaboration from Fendi and global digital asset management platform Ledger, has resulted in a collection of tech accessories designed to hold Ledger’s secure hardware crypto wallet. The collection was unveiled at Fendi’s Men’s AW22-23 fashion show on January 15.
Day Luxe: For his AW22 collection, Tom Ford offset a monochrome color palette with sumptuous fabrications, that reinforced the desirability of the jewel box palette. Ford layered mono-colors to create depth and richness, bringing a heightened sophistication to daywear.
New Territories: Luxury brands are rediscovering the US and as the country gets wealthier, they are eyeing second - and even third-tier - cities as new retail hotspots. Prada is heading to Austin, Louis Vuitton will show its 2023 Cruise collection in La Jolla, California, and Kering has announced plans to expand its retail presence in Nashville and Atlanta.

2. Luxury’s new beauty codes

In our latest What’s Up US Makeup report, we highlight 10 of the latest trends for the US market, including the New Luxury Expression - a trend propelled by the buoyant US economy, ascending consumer optimism, a desire for higher sophistication, and to, quite frankly, look expensive.

The AW 22/23 catwalk season confirmed that sophistication is back. From haute hair styling to ultra-glam makeup, the luxury of freedom is being expressed through sophisticated new looks. And Americans are in the mood for a party - after months of restrictions, the return of socializing is a gift for those wanting to make a bold beauty statement. In Beauty this manifests as a look that is equal parts Wall Street and 90s It Girl.

Brown Brilliance: Intense chocolatey hues replace minimalist and neutral colors. Dark creamy lipsticks or coffee-and-cream nail polish are the new aesthetics to follow.
Ultra-Comfort Matte: According to Spate, the number of searches using the term “Matte” has experienced +13,7% growth amounting to 762,4 K monthly searches. “Cream to Powder Foundation” was at +175,1% (Source: Spate NYC Tool - End March 2022 - Year Over Year).
Monochromatic Statement: Color becomes a conduit for pleasure and self-expression, with vivid combinations and striking monochromes representing luxury’s new dynamism. Full-color looks make a bold statement, this is see-and-be-seen beauty that draws on layering mono-color to striking effect.

This is an extract from our latest What’s Up US Beauty report for Spring 2022.

Our new What's Up report analyzes the latest evolution of the US Beauty market, decoding the societal changes and innovative paths of beauty brands, organized around ten inspirational trends.

Each trend is supported by examples of aspirational beauty archetypes, along with information on the new indie players, concepts and products that are changing the Beauty game. Every trend confirmation is backed by key data analysis provided by the Spate NYC Google search tool and Tribe Dynamics latest figures, allowing us to deliver you an even deeper level of actionable insight and market accuracy.

Seventy pages, ten trends, unmissable insight.

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