TREND INSPIRATION: 5 FALL/WINTER 2025 FASHION WEEK TRENDS

Khaite Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

Fashion Week is in flux - both structurally, as calendars shift, and culturally, amid a rapidly changing political landscape. This season, designers embraced this feeling of bold contrasts: reference-heavy maximalism clashed with sharp ’90s minimalism, while fashion became a tool for resistance, with brands using the runway to make powerful political and social statements.

Here are highlighted five key trends we spotted during this season’s Fashion weeks.

Corpcore: Back in the boardroom

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2025 / Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2025 / Jane Wade Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

Corporate dressing is making a comeback. Sharp tailoring, crisp collars, mannish overcoats and perfectly fitted trousers offer a palette cleanser to the years of work-from-home sweats. This new iteration is not just a Gen Z interpretation of corporate culture, served up in the stylised aesthetic of Severance, but a real status-defining look. In this new vision, even the humble lanyard is a coveted accessory.

• Calvin Klein (NYFW) defined the "corporate chic" look in the ’90s, and now Veronica Leoni reinvents it for a new generation, blending sharp silhouettes with a modern, understated sensuality.

• Gliding through the sleek corridors of "Stella Corp", models embody a modern working wardrobe that effortlessly shifts from day to night. Stella McCartney (PFW) reinvents power dressing with confidence, blending masculine precision with feminine allure.

• At Jane Wade (NYFW), officewear is reimagined through the lens of employer-employee surveillance culture. Work badges, phones and folders become statement accessories, blurring the line between function and fashion.

Fur: Commanding style

Khaite Fall/Winter 2025 / Prada Fall/Winter 2025 / Gucci Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

In the spirit of excess, fur returned as a grand symbol of power and unapologetic luxury. Faux and vintage styles also made an appearance, as designers embraced the texture to craft looks that exude drama and confidence. 

• Featuring 90s-style waterfall overcoats and cropped trenches, Khaite’s (NYFW) tonal, tactile collection is inspired by the aesthetic of David Lynch and the streets of New York.

• Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons (MFW) continue their bold experimentation with fur, extending themes from the menswear collection. Oversized faux fur collars envelop structured overcoats worn as dresses, while blazers are reimagined with striking patchwork fur details across the body and lapels, blurring the line between classic tailoring and avant-garde texture play.

• Gucci (MFW) revisits its heritage, drawing inspiration from the brand’s early ready-to-wear era with a distinctly vintage aesthetic. Paying tribute to founder Guccio Gucci, the collection embraces nostalgia through opulent, chunky faux furs, blending past elegance with a modern, theatrical edge.

Poppy Red: Look-at-me colour

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2025 / Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2025 / Tory Burch Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

This season, Poppy Red dominated the runways as a bold and electrifying statement colour. Designers embraced its intensity through monochromatic, head-to-toe looks, reinforcing red’s undeniable presence as both powerful and provocative. Whether in sleek tailoring, fluid gowns or avant-garde outerwear, the striking hue radiated energy and defiance. 

• Issey Miyake (PFW) reimagines fluidity with a red-on-red knitwear set, expertly cut and knotted to shift and transform with each wear, creating an ever-evolving silhouette. An asymmetrical sculptural dress further explores movement, wrapping the body in dynamic folds.

• Inspired by choreographer Pina Bausch, Ferragamo (MFW) designer Maximilian Davis explores the tension between romance and movement. Red takes center stage, symbolising passion, connection and the push-and-pull of relationships. Flowing silhouettes and structured tailoring mirror Bausch’s expressive choreography, blurring the lines between restraint and release, emotion and precision.

• Tory Burch (NYFW) reinvents American sportswear with a functional yet elevated approach, punctuated with shocks of poppy red. A matching jacket and bag, accented with multi-pocket utility, embrace practicality, while a bold red hue injects energy and sophistication. 

Precious Stones: Heavy metal revival

Givenchy Fall/Winter 2025 / Maison Sara Chraibi Fall/Winter 2025 / Alice+Olivia Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

From gem-encrusted tops to rhinestone-studded faces and gem-topped nails, the season embraced opulence and craftsmanship, with designers incorporating precious elements into both clothing and beauty, making bold, baroque statements.

• Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy (PFW) was defined by a kind of discipline, a discipline where her artistry still shone through. A gem-encrusted top was reminiscent of a cascading necklace, showcasing her meticulous eye for craftsmanship.

• Maison Sara Chraibi (LFW) adorned models’ faces with crystals and rhinestones, placing them under the eyes, along the cheekbones, and on the body, matching lavishly embellished hairpieces.

• For Alice + Olivia (NYFW), nail artist Miss Pop elevated chrome Salon Perfect press-on nails by adorning them with sparkling gemstones and pearls, adding more than a touch of decadent glamour.

Bedhead: Untamed beauty

Prada Fall/Winter 2025 / Gucci Fall/Winter 2025 / Vettese Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

Loose, tousled waves and natural textures projected a relaxed and refined look - as if models had just stepped out of bed. The look exudes freedom, celebrating a relaxed, untamed aesthetic that's polished enough for the runway but effortlessly chic.

• Prada's collection challenges traditional notions of beauty, exploring femininity in new ways, questioning gender, appearance and mannerisms. The show, freed from the male gaze, redefines beauty with intentionally frizzy hair, blending both polished and undone looks to reflect a more liberated and fluid interpretation of femininity.

• Loose, disheveled and artfully unkempt, Gucci models sported hairstyles with frizzy textures, embracing an effortlessly undone, carefree aesthetic that contrasted with traditional polished looks.

• Inspired by her Romanesque culture, designer Kari Vettese (NYFW) created a sensual aesthetic that was topped off by morning-after, slept-in hairstyles.

The CIC Take

Maturity and maximalism permeated Fall/Winter 25 collections, as designers embraced the reemergence of corporate culture and “boom boom” dressing – with out-there opulence challenging the recent dominance of Quiet Luxury. In this new era, a shifting political landscape is visibly influencing consumer behavior, fueling a resurgence of extravagant, bold looks reminiscent of the '80s and '90s.

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth NYFW Fall/Winter 2025/2026 report.

TIKTOK TREND INSPIRATION: MARCH 2025

Sources: @iamdoechii_ / @janelthebear / @mimiermakeup

Every month the Cosmetics IC social media team takes the pulse of TikTok to unearth the biggest beauty trends, viral hacks and buzzing products. In February, The Grammys red carpet encouraged fans to experiment with a bold new look, while others were inspired by the classic allure of feline energy. Discover the top three trends from March 2025:

1/ Proud Face Tape

Facelift tapes are having a moment and are turning from hidden accessories to proud ornaments. At The Grammys, rapper Doechii wore her signature face tape above her hairline, turning the face-lifting tool into a statement accessory. Rhinestones were also added to further draw attention to the tapes. We also saw apparent face tapes at Valentino Fall/Winter 2025 during Paris Fashion Week, elevating this TikTok trend as a luxury statement. With cosmetic procedures losing their taboo amongst Gen Z beauty fans, the choice to expose face tapes takes transparency one step further, with the embellishments adding an extra editorial spin.

Influencers: @charlottelooks, @natashajanewood, @pinknews, @itsurgrlaisha, @itsurgrlaisha 

Hashtags: #facetape - 186.2M views

2/ Pink Undereye

Aiming for a bright and flawless look, TikTokkers are blending pink products (blush or lip oils) with their regular concealer, or directly appplying pink-toned concealers to the undereye. Instead of simply covering dark circles, the pink hue has an illuminating effect, delivering a subtle glow and natural flush. Key products include Maybelline’s Instant Age Rewind Eraser in pink, the Kosas Revealer Extra Bright Serum-Powered Color Corrector in pink and the NYX Pro Fix Stick Corecting Concealer.

Influencers: @beautyybylucyy, @huda_gash, @mimiermakeup, @lizziebowker

Hashtags: #pinkundereye - 74.3M views, #pinkundereyetrend - 86.2M views, #pinkblush - 401.1M views, #kosasconcealer - 151M views

3/ Black Cat Energy

This sub trend of the #DarkFeminine aesthetic embodies the independent, detached and self-assured nature of black cats. Inspired by the personification of dark feline energy represented in characters like Morticia Adams or Cat Woman, beauty fans are creating bold and enigmatic looks that focus on the eyes with tight, elongated wings lined in black, with a soft and smokey lid.

Influencers: @janelthebear, @sarahnewsfx, @s.ophiegracee

Hashtags: #blackcatenergy - 220.4M views, #darkfemininemakeup - 58.3M views

The CIC Take

Our social media team brings you an indispensable guide to all things viral, listening in to the trending beauty conversations on TikTok and Instagram. A monthly edit filled with data from our social media data partners, Spate and Tribe Dynamics. 

Includes: Monthly Top 10 brands in EMV, Top 10 brands by followers, the latest trending looks and viral products on TikTok. Also available as a monthly service.

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

Sources: Cosmetics IC – March 2025 

Spate NYC - TikTok US until Week of March 2, 2025

Trend Hunting at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2025

Photo: Cosmetics IC - Innovation Awards - Venice Beach - Capsum

MakeUp in Los Angeles X LUXE Pack 2025: A Standout Year for Beauty Innovation

The Feb 2025 edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles X LUXE Pack marked a stellar year for the West Coast’s premier beauty event, drawing over 4,928 visitors and an impressive lineup of exhibitors unveiling their latest innovations.

From cutting-edge formulations to breakthrough packaging solutions, here are our “coup de cœur” innovations that caught our eye:

#1 – Formula - Over the Rainbow Lip&Cheek - ARTCOSMETICS

Over the Rainbow Lip&Cheek - ARTCOSMETICS

A breakthrough in hybrid beauty, that integrates three distinct textures—creamy blush, glossy balm, and radiant highlighter—into a single, travel-friendly tool. Engineered with advanced molding technology, it preserves the integrity of each formula, ensuring seamless application and optimal performance. Its ergonomic triangular design enhances precision, catering to the demand for intuitive, multi-functional beauty solutions. Compliant with Sephora and Ulta Beauty CLEAN standards, this innovation reflects the market shift toward high-performance, responsibly formulated products.

By combining sensorial richness with cutting-edge technology, ARTCOSMETICS delivers a versatile, on-the-go essential for modern beauty routines.

Why is it interesting?: We love the clean, visually attractive, 3-in-one formula – glossy, jelly, and creamy in a drop-shaped stick.

#2 – Formula - Moisture-Boost Splash Cream - JO COSMETICS, INC.

Moisture-Boost Splash Cream - JO Cosmetics, INC.

The Moisture-Boost Splash Cream merges Japanese skincare artistry with innovative Splash technology. This gel-cream features a unique two-layer structure, with 80% serum encapsulating potent beauty ingredients. Upon application, it bursts into a refreshing fluid, deeply hydrating while addressing dryness, dullness, acne, wrinkles, pores, and irritation. Its completely transparent formula showcases advanced fermentation science, delivering a transformative skincare experience in every jar.

Why is it interesting?: This formula embodies the Japanese art of formulation, featuring a completely transparent gel-cream made with 80% serum.

#3 – Packaging - Paperfoam Twist Up Stick - TOLY GROUP

Toly’s PaperFoam Twist Up Stick

Toly’s PaperFoam Twist Up Stick pioneers a fully paper-based retractable mechanism, a feature previously only achievable with plastic. Unlike existing options that blend paper and plastic, this innovation delivers a high-performance, user-friendly alternative without compromising functionality. By solving a key challenge in paper packaging, it offers a truly sustainable solution for eco-conscious consumers.

Why is it interesting?: A groundbreaking plastic-free design with a fully functional paper-based mechanism.

#4 – Accessory - The Dream Ring - IMEI DIVISION

The Dream Ring - IMEI DIVISION

The Dream Ring is a jewel-like facial massager designed for on-the-go use. This elegant ring effortlessly targets hard-to-reach areas, combining beauty and functionality in a compact accessory. Its sleek, ergonomic design allows for a soothing facial massage anytime, enhancing circulation and relaxation with a touch of style.

Why is it interesting?: Embodying our Key Prediction for 2025, The Culture of Delight, The Dream Ring combines a joyful beauty ritual with a comforting self-care moment, encapsulated in a cute wearable. 

#5 - Packaging -  Nuon – Technology-infused skincare cap 

Nuon – Technology-infused skincare cap 

Nuon Medical Technologies integrates clinically proven light therapy directly into skincare packaging, turning the cap itself into an active treatment tool. This smart packaging utilizes blue light to eliminate acne-causing bacteria and red light to stimulate collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Designed for targeted treatment, it enhances absorption and accelerates visible results, with studies showing up to 75% acne reduction and 30% more collagen production.

Why is it interesting? This is a game-changing fusion of skincare and clinically-proven light therapy delivered in a super-convenient format.

THE CIC TAKE

The standout innovations from MakeUp in Los Angeles 2025 highlight how beauty is embracing technology, sustainability, and multifunctionality to enhance both performance and user experience. As predicted in our 2025 Key Predictions white book, The Age of Resonance, beauty is evolving with tech-infused skincare, eco-conscious packaging, and ergonomic design that simplifies routines while delivering efficacy and delight. These innovations perfectly align with the industry's shift towards practical, sensorial, and science-backed solutions.

The Age of Resonance is available now. Contact us for more details.

BEAUTY TALK: ADAPTIVE FUTURES - THE VISIONARY ALIGNMENT OF TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY

Photo by Makeup in Los Angeles 2025 - Alex Rawitz (Creator IQ), Leila Rochet (Cosmetics IC), Valérie Grandury (Odacité), Jana Bobosikova (KikiWorld)

At MakeUp in Los  Angeles, key thought leaders, Alex Rawitz from CreatorIQ,  founder of Odacite, Valérie Grandury, and co-founder of Kiki World, Jana Bobosikova, joined Leila Rochet in a Beauty Talk to discuss one of the agency’s Key Predictions for the years ahead - Adaptive Futures. The panel explored how consumers are leaning deeper into technical narratives and scientific storytelling as a culture of bold innovation sweeps through the industry. 

“Beauty will become a dynamic, future-ready force that combines the microscopic scale of biotechnology innovations with the expansive opportunities of virtual realities.”

— Leila Rochet, Cosmetics IC

A New Reality

In this evolving territory, hyper-personalized products and experiences are made possible by the embrace of new technologies, while the ingredient space is transformed by novel AI processes and lab-grown innovations.  As consumers increasingly embrace AI-driven creativity, with 65% believing it will enhance artistic expression and progress (Vox), beauty brands have a unique opportunity to leverage the current enthusiasm for tech-powered innovation. The consensus amongst consumers seems to be that if AI can simplify their lives then it is worth embracing - over half of U.S. Gen Zers support brands using generative AI for personalization (Statista).

“We are seeing that advanced technologies and devices are really influencing the beauty industry, alongside lab-grown ingredients. These facets are transforming how consumers experience beauty, creating a very dynamic market,” explained Leila. 

New product launches demonstrate the potential for technology to further transform how consumers engage with, and experience beauty, whether it is through embarking on a  ChatGPT-authored glow-up, booking in for an Aescape robotic massage, or leaning into AI-powered diagnostics with SmartSKN’s Muilli AI Dermascope and L’Oréal’s Cell BioPrint. These innovations demonstrate the power of AI to offer incredibly nuanced experiences, hyper-attuned to individual needs, from health diagnostics to skin analysis to empowering bold makeup looks. 

Science-backed Beauty is Winning

What is clear, is that brands that are embracing consumers’ prioritization of scientific narratives are reaping the rewards. In his presentation, Alex Rawitz highlighted The Ordinary’s ongoing surge (a +59% uptick in EMV,  and +36% growth in Community YoY), propelled by a number of viral product launches, including the Squalene + Amino Acids Lip Balm (June 2024). Likewise, healthy-aging brand One Skin has seen an incredible +450% increase in Engagement thanks to a narrative of biohacked skincare. 

“In 2024 many of the top performers and many of the outlier performers when it comes to growth, were relatively new brands founded in the last five or ten years, which are taking a vegan and cruelty-free ethos to their product lines while also foregrounding science in their brand story” suggested Alex. 

CreatorIQ data analysis also confirms the growing consumer appetite for the convergence of cosmetics and skincare, with Alex highlighting the increasingly central role science and scientists are playing in the makeup space. “There’s unquestionably dramatic momentum” behind this trend, according to Alex, as skincare-first brands invest in expanding their ranges to include cosmetics. Odacite is a good example of this evolution, with the French skincare brand, which is grounded in biotechnology and skin science, introducing tinted SPFs to its range.

AI-Enhanced Efficacy

As beauty brands seek future resilience, biotechnology, and AI-driven formulations are emerging as industry game-changers. Lab-grown ingredients and AI-enhanced product development tools, such as Debut’s BeautyORB, which utilizes AI to scan over 50 billion ingredients, are paving the way for sustainable, high-performance beauty solutions.

In this context, AI-controlled farms will become a critical asset to brands focused on ring-fencing their sustainability. Odacite’s combination of “natural luxury and clinical science” was inspired by founder Valérie Grandury’s personal health struggles, as she recovered from cancer treatment. Valérie discovered that “by choosing the best of science, which is Western medicine, with the therapeutic benefits of botanicals, you can actually have amazing results.” 

This realization inspired Odacite’s approach to formulation, which is centered around biotechnology and AI-controlled farms to ensure the sustainable development of their key ingredient, Edelweiss. The brand utilizes an AI-controlled environment to grow the hardy botanical to the most potent outcomes. “There’s no element that we don’t control,” explained Grandury. A central computer regulates optimum growth conditions, providing a constant feed of data, which is then analyzed to improve the next growth cycle. “The beauty is that we can  harvest every three months, we have no seasonality.”

Transforming Experience through Tech

Technology is also powering a new wave of co-created products and experiences, acting as a conduit for deepening consumer engagement and collaboration. NFC-enabled beauty brand Kiki World raised $5 million in 2024 to build on its proposition of offering a blockchain platform that allows users to vote on product designs, earn loyalty points, and unlock discounts. NFC-enabled products further enhance the engagement experience, rewarding community interaction beyond purchases.

Co-founder Jana Bobosikova explained the process behind the concept is, primarily, to foster loyalty in beauty fans by engaging them in the creation process but also the company is committed to being active participants in the future of the industry by investing in next-gen technologies. The aim is to create a commerce community of emotionally-invested stakeholders, connected by new technologies. “We’re not really a beauty company. We’re a technology company” stated Bobosikova.

THE CIC TAKE 

In the future, advanced devices, lab-grown ingredients, and digital extensions will seamlessly blend to deliver new, boundary-pushing experiences. Here’s how brands can prepare for Adaptive Futures:

• Invest in AI-controlled environments or lab-grown alternatives to ensure long-term viability and differentiation.

• Use AI as a facilitator of self-expression. Blockchain-enabled co-creation platforms can foster deeper consumer loyalty and engagement.

• Introduce hyper-personalization at scale. AI-driven diagnostics will dominate beauty consultations, empowering consumers with precision recommendations tailored to lifestyle and life-stage needs.

Our 2025 Key Predictions white book, The Age of Resonance, is out now. Contact the team today for more information.

The Age of Resonance: 5 Key Trends for 2025 and Beyond

Credits: Nick Fancher via Deathtostock

The Age of Resonance marks a new phase for the beauty industry - one defined by curiosity, creativity, and conviction. In this emerging landscape, beauty evolves beyond aesthetics to become an immersive and emotionally charged experience, where well-being, inclusivity, and self-expression converge.

In our 2025 White Book, the Cosmetics IC team decodes the societal shifts and breakthrough beauty innovations that will transform the shape of the industry for the years ahead.

"In an era of transformation and growing societal consciousness, consumers are seeking more than just efficacy - they crave meaning, emotional engagement, and experiences that align with their evolving lifestyles. Beauty is becoming a space where science meets sensoriality, where ancestral knowledge informs innovation, and where self-expression transcends norms." Leïla Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Discover 5 inspiration territories to fuel your future innovation:

1 - ADAPTIVE FUTURES: The Visionary Alignment of Technology and Beauty

Technology and biotechnology will seamlessly merge to create hyper-personalized, intelligent solutions. AI-driven tools and scientific advancements will redefine performance, pushing beauty toward a new era of adaptability and precision.

Technology is ushering in a new era of co-created products, enhancing consumer engagement through Web3, blockchain, and AI. In 2024, NFC-enabled beauty brand Kiki World raised $5 million to create a platform where users vote on designs, earn loyalty points, and unlock discounts, with NFC products driving community interaction beyond purchases.

AI is also unlocking new creative dimensions. Beauty brands are experimenting with generative AI and wearable tech to enable deeper self-expression. Studio Halia’s Alter Collection integrates NFC chips into sculptural jewelry, unlocking augmented reality beauty experiences.

In beauty, biotech advancements are transforming formulation processes. AI-powered ingredient platforms, like Debut’s BeautyORB, analyze billions of ingredient combinations to optimize both efficacy and sustainability. Lab-grown actives, such as Odacité’s AI-cultivated Edelweiss, are setting new standards for precision skincare.

In the future, beauty will evolve beyond aesthetics, meeting the needs of a dynamic, performance-driven consumer who seeks intelligent, responsive solutions.

2 - DEEP RECONNECTION: Honoring Nature, Culture, and Ancestral Roots to Redefine Sustainability

In an era of rapid change, consumers are seeking grounding experiences and ethical beauty solutions that enhance their connection to nature, heritage, and cultural traditions. Sustainability is evolving beyond environmental responsibility to incorporate ancestral wisdom and elemental purity, creating a more meaningful and holistic vision of beauty.

As awareness of climate change and biodiversity loss intensifies, brands are responding with emotionally resonant narratives. Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection paid tribute to traditional papermaking, using delicate Japanese washi to reflect nature’s fragility. Meanwhile, Pavels Hedström’s Gaia Communication System translates plant signals into tactile sensations, deepening our emotional bond with the natural world.

Beauty is also turning to ancestral practices and indigenous ingredients to create authentic, culturally rich formulations. HYEJA’s Clarifying Lotus Hydrator combines Korean traditions with modern science, while Nordic and Japanese bathing rituals are inspiring self-care experiences that reconnect consumers with water’s elemental power.

Brands will also rethink materials and packaging, such as Attitude’s Oceanly Eyeshadow which introduced plastic-free, biodegradable packaging, while packaging for Credo’s new skincare line incorporates recycled ocean plastics, reinforcing the shift toward circular beauty.

In the future, beauty will not only honor nature and tradition but also inspire a deeper, more poetic connection with the world around us.

3 - LIFE IN MOVEMENT: Redefining Beauty Through Motion, Adaptability, and Strength

In a world that never stops moving, beauty is shifting to emphasize fluidity, adaptability, and strength, celebrating bodies in motion rather than static perfection. Athleticism and power become the new aesthetic ideal, redefining confidence through physical expression.

As the boundaries between fashion, sports, and beauty blur, brands are responding with designs that enhance both performance and aesthetics. Balenciaga’s collaboration with Under Armour fuses high fashion with functionality, while Loewe’s CloudTilt 2.0 sneaker merges sleek design with movement-enhancing technology. In beauty, innovation follows suit - Respire’s Solid Cleanser and NuFace’s FIX MicroWand are designed for efficiency and portability, catering to active lifestyles.

Strength and resilience will take center stage, with athletes and performers leading the way, like Ilona Maher, rugby Olympian who recently became Paula’s Choice’s first Skincare Coach. Products like Lemme Tone Gummies and Josie Maran’s Pro-Retinol Body Butter are emerging, celebrating the sculpted, powerful body.

Future beauty will be functional, empowering, and protective, designed to support movement, endurance, and self-expression in an ever-evolving world.

4 - THE CULTURE OF DELIGHT: Joyful Escapes and Sensory Delights as Anchors in a Chaotic World

In a world of constant chaos, beauty is evolving beyond appearance to become a tool for emotional well-being and joy. Delightful, sensory experiences provide a much-needed break from daily pressures. Beauty and luxury become vehicles for pleasure, engagement, and self-reconnection, turning mundane routines into moments of happiness.

Nostalgia plays a significant role in this shift, with iconic childhood figures making a comeback to evoke a sense of comfort and cultural connection. At Paris Fashion Week SS25, Coperni collaborated with Disney, creating whimsical designs that celebrate childhood magic. In beauty, collaborations like Dearcloud x Miffy reimagine beloved characters, linking nostalgia with modern self-care.

Brands will also increasingly embrace playfulness in packaging and experiences. The rise of collectible, toy-inspired products, such as Creer Beaute’s Tamagotchi Balms and Fwee's Pudding Pots, offer consumers a playful way to interact with beauty. In the realm of hedonism, consumers seek small, joyful experiences, reflected in pop-up environments like Louis Vuitton’s Murakami Wonderland, which redefines retail as a space for joyful, imaginative escape.

Beauty is now an opportunity for sensory pleasure. With an increasing demand for tactile products, brands like Pleasing and Fwee are creating beauty rituals that engage the sense of touch, turning skincare into an indulgent, playful experience.

In the future, beauty will continue to offer consumers joyful escapes, transforming everyday rituals into multisensory experiences that combine delight with connection.

5- AGELESS HORIZONS: Redefining Beauty Through Inclusivity and Longevity

Our perception of aging is transforming from a limitation to an ongoing narrative of self-expression and empowerment. The growing demand for personalized solutions, inclusive representation, and longevity-focused innovations reflects a broader, more nuanced understanding of beauty that embraces every stage of life. This trend is helping to redefine the narrative around age, celebrating wisdom, experience, and inclusivity across all generations.

In skincare and wellness, a unified language is emerging, with younger consumers adopting preventative routines and older generations focusing on well-aging. Brands are creating products and rituals that cater to diverse needs, responding to this demand for intergenerational dialogue. 

At the same time, age representation is gaining traction in fashion and media, with mature models being celebrated for their experience and confidence. Campaigns from brands like Caudalie and beauty influencers such as Grece Ghanem and Fred Mécène show that ageless beauty is no longer a distant ideal but an attainable and empowering reality.

In the future, beauty will continue to innovate, prioritizing longevity and inclusivity, with advanced skincare technologies and doctor-led brands leading the way, merging beauty and wellness into a seamless, ageless experience.

The CIC Take

For an up-close look at our 5 Key Trends for 2025 and Beyond visit our booth (K49) at the upcoming MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 12 & 13) where our CIO Leila Rochet will personally talk you through a selection of international products at our Inspiration Bar, curated to illustrate many of the themes above.

The full version of our 2025 White Book: The Age of Resonance is available now, contact us for more information.

Transcendent Nature: Bold Ambitions for a Better Future

Pic: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in NewYork - with Leila Rochet (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation), Sarah Jindal (Mintel) and Sebastien Bardon (Capsum)

At MakeUp in New York, key thought leaders Sarah Jindal from Mintel and Sebastian Bardon, CEO of Capsum, joined Leila Rochet to discuss the theme of Transcendent Nature, exploring the imperative to leverage visionary science and technology to realize a more holistic and environmentally responsible future for the beauty industry. 

During this Beauty Talk, Leïla Rochet introduced the major changes and new initiatives seen internationally in ethical sourcing and sustainability. Sarah Jindal presented the latest analysis from Mintel’s consumer research, focusing on the latest international changes in the beauty market. The discussion continued with Sébastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum, a science-driven contract manufacturer specializing in microfluidic technologies applied to Beauty.

“In the future, sustainability will be tackled with innovative ideas and partnerships across industries, leading to solutions that benefit both people and the environment. Responding to growing consumer pressure, eco-native brands will drive an industry-wide transformation, setting new standards in eco-desirable packaging and ambitious makeup innovations.”

— Leila Rochet - CIO - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Consumer expectations are rapidly reshaping the industry when it comes to clean beauty, driving brands to demonstrate a deep commitment to sustainability and ethics that goes beyond surface-level trends. Here are the key highlights from the conference:

A New Consumer Imperative

Consumers are demanding solutions that benefit both people and the planet, driving brands to prioritize investments in ethical sourcing and production. Products backed by data and experts will gain traction with savvy, but skeptical, consumers -  30% say they trust a brand if it has strong sustainability initiatives, according to Mintel.

“We know consumers want to live more eco-friendly lifestyles,” said Jindal, who highlighted a significant shift in consumer power, with one-third of U.S. adults now saying they are committed to sustainability.  “A few years ago, people wouldn’t have believed their actions mattered, but now there’s optimism. Positive sentiment like this is powerful, as it fully engages people with brand initiatives, creating alignment between consumer behavior and brand messaging.”

This shift is encouraging cross-industry collaborations between eco-native brands and innovators working in science and technology, a dynamic that is integral to the Capsum lab, admitted Bardon.  As a company built on experimentation, Capsum is investing in B2B companies that are leading the field in terms of ingredient, packaging, and device innovation - ensuring their team is fed a steady stream of insights and inspiration. “Sustainability is central to our work,” he explained. “The dual focus on product attraction and environmental promises is challenging but vital.” Critically, Capsum’s CEO noted that they are guided by their clients, noting that constant engagement is key to staying ahead of their demands.

Biotechnology: A Transformational Force

“In fashion, food and product design, we are seeing ambitious new developments in sustainable innovation with the emergence of novel materials and ingredients that radically reduce our reliance on non-renewables,” explained Leila Rochet, CIO of Cosmetics IC. The agency highlighted the emergence of biologically engineered textiles or materials used in other industries.

Biotechnology is becoming more than a tool; it is becoming the backbone of sustainable innovation. “Over the past three years, we’ve seen an 89% increase in products mentioning fermentation, a 312% increase in references to the biome, and a 146% increase in the use of terms like biotech or biotechnology on packaging,” revealed Jindal. 

Brands increasingly call out these aspects on packs to educate consumers and differentiate their offerings. By focusing on lab-grown sustainability benefits and using science-led influencers, brands can help overcome consumer uncertainty and appeal to the 24% of U.S. consumers who would like to learn more about lab-grown ingredients.

Advancements in this field are enabling the development of sustainable, lab-grown ingredients that rival—and often exceed—the performance of traditional ones, like Capsum’s microencapsulated active ingredients that deliver both superior results and sustainability.

Full Transparency

The shift toward sustainability demands more than innovation in formulation; it extends to ethical practices across the supply chain. Over one-third of consumers (39%) aged 18-44 now want products to be ethically sourced.

Young consumers are driving this shift, many of whom don’t differentiate between what’s good for the environment and what’s good for people. For Jindal, it comes down to younger generations feeling they have more to lose, noting that “eco-ethical positioning, covering topics like biodiversity and responsible sourcing, resonates deeply with younger generations because they’re more invested in ensuring the planet remains inhabitable for a longer time.” 

Capsum is investing in vertical farms to ringfence its ingredient sources, allowing scientists to grow plants with boosted potency while retaining water and avoiding the wastage typical in open fields. “This level of control ensures consistent quality and traceability, meeting growing consumer expectations,” explained Bardon. 

THE CIC TAKE 

The future of beauty lies in applying science and technology to transcend nature. This means exploring regenerative practices and sustainable ingredient sources that severe the industry’s reliance on non-renewables. Brands will only unlock a greener future by thinking beyond clean, and by democratizing efficacy and adding value to forge a powerful pact between science, technology and nature.
Our What’s Up #21 report (out now) explores consumers’ desire to reconnect with the grounding elements of nature, as we grapple with the impact of climate change. This calls for brands to invest in novel biotech materials, botanical-infused products, and medicine and wellness practices that harness nature’s therapeutic healing powers, bringing nature-powered innovation to the fore. 

Contact the team today for more information.

(All statistics provided by Mintel)

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MEET THE FOUNDER: DANESSA MYRICKS TALKS ARTISTRY AND INCLUSION

At MakeUp in New York 2024, our Chief Inspiration Officer Leila Rochet sat down for an exclusive conversation with acclaimed beauty brand CEO and Founder, Danessa Myricks. 

Renowned for its artistry, innovation, and comprehensive approach to inclusivity, Danessa Myricks Beauty has quickly gained recognition from global beauty fans. Rooted in creativity, the brand champions individuality and self-expression, chiming with the values of today’s Gen Z.

For these hedonistic beauty fans, makeup is integral to a new treat-based culture. The boom in concert makeup, couture-inspired makeovers, and character-driven narratives on social media, signals a new era of creativity as pleasure becomes a key driver for thrill-seeking consumers. This culture shift is enticing consumers to experiment with bold looks, explore new personas, and indulge in lavish artistry.

Discussing the trend for self-treating as a polycrisis coping mechanism, Leila and Danessa explored the imperative for joy in makeup and the rising call for sensory considerations when it comes to NPD. 

“Danessa’s infectious passion for beauty and her intuitive understanding of the transformative power of makeup resonate deeply with today’s consumers. Her autodidactic approach has given her a unique perspective, allowing her to create products that are intimately attuned to the needs and desires of real people, regardless of their gender, age, or skin story. In Danessa’s world, makeup is not a mask but a tool of empowerment – an opportunity to celebrate one’s individuality and unleash creativity.”

— Leila Rochet, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

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Leila: Could you start by telling us a bit about your journey into this industry? 

Danessa: I’m an accidental makeup artist, an accidental brand founder, and even an accidental photographer. I was simply living my life and adapting as things happened. At 30, I was a displaced worker; the company I worked for shut down. As a single mother with a newborn and a 7-year-old, I had to rethink my life. I was working at a publishing company that produced beauty magazines. The lives of the makeup artists and photographers there seemed exciting, while my job was just to feed my kids—nothing that sparked inspiration. My relationship with beauty was complicated; the industry wasn’t welcoming for someone like me. But seeing the artists in that space made me want to be creative. I decided to teach myself makeup in my basement. I worked for free for about a year, then landed my first commercial job, and the rest just unfolded from there. It’s been about saying “yes” to opportunities and having the courage to step into them.

Leila: What were the biggest challenges you faced as a self-taught artist? I imagine it wasn’t easy reaching the success you enjoy today.

Danessa: Oh, definitely not easy. The biggest challenge was my lack of knowledge. I was figuring things out as I went. But, honestly, I’m grateful for that ignorance because it allowed me to carve a different path without being told what was “possible” or “impossible.” I learned by dreaming and experimenting, and I had to overcome fear at every stage. Even now, every day feels challenging and a bit scary, but I keep moving forward with courage.

Leila: What was the social and political backdrop like at the time you started? Did it influence your vision?

Danessa: Absolutely. My brand is very personal; it’s a reflection of my story and the stories of the people I encounter. It’s deeply connected to the social and political climate. I create with a focus on solving problems people face and addressing what they feel is missing. So, yes, the backdrop has always influenced my brand’s vision.

“My inspiration comes from those who came before me—like my parents, whose struggles were far greater than mine. I feel a responsibility to keep going and make space for others who look like me. Every success, every “yes” I achieve, creates room for someone else to thrive in this industry”

— Danessa Myricks, MakeUp in New York 2024

Leila: Your brand is recognized for its inclusivity and versatility. How do you ensure that your products cater to such a diverse range of skin tones and types?

Danessa: My brand is about people’s stories. It’s about creating a space where everyone feels seen and represented. When I think about developing a product, I literally close my eyes and think about all types of people. My team represents the world, and we’re constantly listening to customers’ stories. The challenge has been finding partners who share our commitment to inclusivity, especially since some formulations are not designed to work across all skin tones. For example, certain base formulas are pure white, which can look great on lighter skin but doesn’t work for everyone. So, we’ve had to search for partners who understand our goal to create for everyone.

Leila: Makeup has become a form of self-expression, especially with “treat culture” gaining popularity. Consumers now see beauty as a source of creativity and comfort. How does that influence your brand’s vision?

Danessa: It’s everything. Makeup is about problem-solving, but it’s also about joy. I remember my mom introducing me to blue eyeliner, which made my eyes pop. Makeup has this incredible ability to make people feel something. So, when we develop products, we focus on how it affects all the senses. The goal is to bring joy inside and out. It’s not just about confidence; it’s about amplifying who you believe you are.

Leila: Speaking of product development, can you share some insights into your innovation process? How do you come up with new ideas, like the latest palette?

Danessa: We dream big. Our development process starts with what we call “DREAM”—D is for “Dreaming”, R is for “Reimagining”, E is for “Ease of Use”, A is for “Accessibility”, and M is for “Magic”. We create with everyone in mind. Each product is designed by dreaming and reimagining, and we focus on accessibility to make sure it’s available to everyone. It’s about creating things that didn’t exist before and approaching them from a new perspective.

Leila: That’s inspiring! Let’s talk about the future. What’s next for Danessa Myricks Beauty?

Danessa: Oh, I have big plans! We’re reimagining what skincare and makeup could be. Could they be one and the same? Do routines need to stay as they are? I want to explore new ways for people to experience skin and complexion products.

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KEY STATS - DANESSA MYRICKS BEAUTY

• +61.5% increase year-over-year in TikTok searches (1)

• +25.9% increase year-over-year in UK Google searches (2)

• #38 ranking in EMV, representing a +56%  year-over-year increase (3)

Sources: (1) Spate NY Tool - US TIkTok views - from Sep 10, 2023 to Sep 8, 2024 vs. Sep 11, 2022 to Sep 10, 2023

(2) Spate NY Tool - US Google searches - from Sep 2023 to Aug 2024 vs. Sep 2022 to Aug 2023

(3) Tribe Dynamics - Jan 2024-Aug 2024

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THE CIC TAKE 

Our What’s Up #21 report (out now) explores the rise of feel-good makeup and the desire for beauty that brings glimmers of joy to the daily routine. The surging popularity of Danessa Myricks Beauty demonstrates the necessity for brands to expand access to artistry to all consumers, as self-celebration becomes a key driver for Gen Z consumers. Contact the team today for more information.

SOCIAL MEDIA SNAPSHOT: THE SLEEPMAXXING MOMENT

In the past few months, trends like #MorningShed and #SleepyGirlMocktail have blown up online. With the rise of the "Sleep Economy," sleep has become a focal point for both beauty and wellness, prompting brands to develop innovative products aimed at enhancing sleep quality. This movement goes beyond a fleeting trend—it's evolving into a lifestyle, as new narratives and rituals surrounding sleep gain momentum.

Sources : @maytemyers / @misspeytonsmith / @joatgains

The Sleep Surge

In this new phase, sleep optimization is about a lot more than clocking eight hours. It is about improving sleep hygiene, sleep quality, and the entire sleep experience. Brands are tapping into this by developing products designed to optimize bedtime routines, leading to huge growth in sleep-related searches across social media. 

• ‘Sleep’-related searches grew +124% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

• Searches for ‘sleep hygiene’ skyrocketed by +222% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29) 

The Daily Shed

#TheDailyShed is a relatively recent trend that emerged in early summer. It involves revealing one’s wake-up beauty routine, focusing on the removal of nighttime products. Common elements include skincare treatments, like overnight peeling masks, anti-wrinkle patches, and undereye masks. It also extends to haircare, like silk bonnets or heatless curlers to maintain hairstyle and reduce frizz. Beauty enthusiasts also showcase the removal of mouth tapes, chin straps, and nasal dilators, used to regulate breathing. 

• ‘Daily Shed’ searches grew +253.5% (quarter-over-quarter - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

The Sleepy Girl Mocktail

The #SleepyGirlMocktail is a beverage that gained popularity on TikTok in 2023 and has continued to trend into 2024. It's touted as a natural sleep aid, typically made with tart cherry juice, magnesium powder (+95.3% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29), and a splash of seltzer or lemon-lime soda. Proponents claim that the melatonin in tart cherry juice and the calming effects of magnesium can promote better sleep.

Brands like Moon Juice (+41.2% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29) have taken the opportunity to surf on the TikTok trend and deliver "Sleepy Girl™ Mocktail" supplements and recipes. Moon Juice’s signature sleep supplement is Magnesi-Om®, which contains three bioavailable forms of Magnesium and L-Theanine to enhance calmness. In October 2024, it also released the Cherry Sleepy Magnesi-Om, which more closely reflects the taste of the original Sleepy Girl Mocktail recipe, popularized by @gracie_norton.  The brand even boldly claims to be the  “Home of the Sleepy Girl Mocktail 🍒💤”.

• ‘Sleepy Girl Mocktail’ has over 118.6M views on U.S. TikTok ( +711.7% YoY U.S. TikTok views - Oct 29)

Credit: Moon Juice

Nasal Dilators & Mouth Tapes

The most viral sleepmaxxing items on TikTok are mouth tapes and nasal dilators, which are often used in tandem to encourage breathing through the nose. Users claim they improve sleep quality, resulting in better overall health. Intake Breathing is one of the most popular nose strip brands on TikTok, however, some are taking a DIY approach, making their own breath-enhancing devices: @raizashow’s tutorial involving using two magnets and a strip of tape has garnered more than 28M views in less than 2 months. 

With the increasing popularity of nasal dilators and mouth tapes, experts are raising safety concerns and skepticism over the lack of scientific evidence to support their beneficial claims. Instead, sleep experts recommend focusing on basic sleep hygiene practices like maintaining a constant sleep schedule and creating a comfortable sleep environment, as well as limiting screen time before bed. James Wilson, known as The Sleep Geek, says consumers need to exercise caution when it comes to the whole sleepmaxxing movement. He believes that overemphasizing sleep optimization can lead to ‘orthosomnia’: the unhealthy obsession with achieving perfect sleep, which ultimately increases stress and anxiety and thus worsens sleep quality.

THE CIC TAKE

The sleep economy is expanding, as consumers demand products that are increasingly personalized, high-performing, and nuanced - 37% of U.S. consumers are looking for enhanced sleep products that also address cognitive functioning, stress, and anxiety management. This is a dynamic and thriving market, where engaged consumers are open to experimenting with new tools, treatments, and rituals. Our latest Inspiration Report, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare and Wellness,  explores the emerging opportunities arising in sleep performance as consumers align their beauty and health goals. Contact us for more information.

“Moving beyond sleeping better, new products are focusing on helping consumers maximize every moment,
including their downtime. The Nighttime Performer is prominent amongst the one-third of Americans who are interested in sleep monitoring devices and sleep-optimizing products and will invest in high-performance nighttime treatments and services. For them, sleep is intrinsic to wellness, and they will invest in rest to unlock peak daytime performance. With almost 9-in-10 Americans recognizing that quality of sleep matters more than quantity, there remains a huge opportunity for recovery-focused products.”

— The Nighttime Performer, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare & Wellness, Cosmetics IC

(U.S. TikTok data source: Spate)

I Feel Good 2024: Innovations in Wellness

Death to Stock - Photo Shauna Summers_

The latest advancements in clean formulations and natural beauty resources were showcased over two days at the recent I Feel Good event in Paris (September 17- 18, 2024). Ingredient and product innovations underscored the growing alignment between the worlds of beauty and wellness. Trend and Digital Assistant Anna shares her top 5 discoveries from the event, where award-winning innovations signalled the dominant role biotechnology would play in the future of clean beauty.

OUR TOP 5 INNOVATIONS:

Lutein-Fortified Beverage - Eye health support drink by Azelis

Winner of the Public Acclaim Achievement Award, the Lutein-Fortified Beverage is formulated to support eye health with three clinically-researched ingredients: lutein, lycopene, and zeaxanthin. These compounds are known for protecting against blue light and supporting visual function. The drink is flavoured with mandarin and features an innovative formula that keeps the active ingredients suspended in the liquid, ensuring consistent delivery. Consuming 2 to 3 mL daily for optimal eye support is recommended. 

Vecollage Fortify L - Biomimetic vegan collagen by Adara

Vecollage Fortify L, winner of the Best Innovation Award, is a skin-identical collagen obtained via biotechnology through yeast fermentation. As a biomimetic collagen, it allows for improved skin penetration and effective action. Moreover, it is highly effective in protecting the skin's network and preventing degradation. The increasing demand for collagen in skincare stands out as it aligns with the current market trend. Additionally, it has a solid ecological advantage, neither synthetic nor derived from animal sources.

Charcoal scrub - 100% upcycled exfoliating treatment by Laboratoire LBP 

This scrub, awarded Best Formulation this year, uses 100% natural, upcycled ingredients for sensitive skin. It includes charcoal from the food industry, rose water from Damask rose distillation, and a moisturizing agent derived from gin distillation with barley ferment. The treatment is applied in a thick layer and offers a pleasant sensory experience while being eco-friendly and completely clean.

Pschiit Beauté - Innovative nutri-cosmetics spray by Kares-Up

Aiming to simplify beauty routines, Pschiit Beauté is a nutri-cosmetics anti-ageing buccal spray that competed in the Public Acclaim Achievement category. Unlike traditional nutri-cosmetics, which often come in capsule formats that can feel too medicinal, this innovative spray offers a more approachable alternative. With just two sprays, it delivers a potent dose of anti-ageing ingredients, making it both practical and user-friendly. Its concentrated formula provides visible results with minimal effort. The sugar-free composition and pleasant rose flavour enhance the experience, encouraging seamless integration into daily habits.

Sensol 100 - Sustainable innovation in cosmetics by GreenTech

Sensol100, a functional ingredient that competed in the Innovation category, is derived from the refinement of upcycled avocado oil. A process of decolourization and deodorization transforms the oil into a light beige, butter-like texture. Rich in essential fatty acids, including oleic, linoleic, and palmitic acids, Sensol 100 plays a vital role in skin regeneration without relying on palm oil. Suitable for all types of emulsions, it is also ideal for tinted lip balms, providing excellent pigment dispersion and a silky texture similar to silicone, allowing for the replacement of silicones and mineral oils. Additionally, Sensol 100 has a coating effect on hair fibers, ensuring easy incorporation while offering beneficial biological properties. Its 100% natural composition features a simple and effective INCI.

THE CIC TAKE

Exhibitors demonstrated how beauty and wellness are increasingly interconnected as consumers’ well-being ambitions are closely tied to their relation to beauty. The event underscored the opportunity in targeted inner-outer solutions, while the realization of exciting new formats (beverages, buccal sprays) shows the potential to unlock new beauty rituals.

Our trend research and innovation consultancy is informed by our many visits to industry exhibitions and events, where our team tracks fresh-from-the-lab innovations and ingredients. Further insight and inspiration are available in the agency’s latest trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

Sporting BEAUTY: Expanding the codes of luxury

Credits: Getty Images/Christian Petersen/ Shacarri Richardson

As the dust settles after the spectacular closing ceremony of the Paris Olympics, the intersection of two powerful cultural forces—luxury and sports—comes into sharp focus. In recent years, the worlds of sports and fashion have converged in unexpected ways, with athletes transforming from mere sports icons into fashion and beauty trendsetters. This evolution redefines luxury perception, moving it beyond the confines of traditional elegance and into the realm of strength, resilience, and aspirational living.

The Olympics have accelerated this trend, solidifying the connection between sports, luxury, and beauty like never before. As luxury strategist Eric Briones aptly puts it, "As luxury Maisons seek new avenues of influence, aligning with sports movements—particularly the Olympics—means becoming part of a broader cultural shift." For fashion and beauty brands, this is an opportunity to redefine female beauty as not just glamorous but also powerful and healthy—a vision that resonates deeply with a Millennial audience increasingly devoted to fitness and wellness as a lifestyle.

In this article, we explore how the codes of luxury and beauty are being expanded through the lens of sports culture, and what this means for brands looking to stay ahead in an ever-evolving marketplace.

Luxury meets Sports – Fostering common values

Credits: Louis Vuitton/LVMH

LVMH made a culture-changing move when it became the first luxury brand to sponsor the Olympic Games, with a partnership valued at 150 million euros (accounting for nearly 1% of the conglomerate’s 2023 profits). The investment reflects LVMH's commitment to expanding its influence far beyond athlete endorsements and its desire to align itself with the aspirations and ideals of athletes and sports fans alike. 

The premiumization of the Olympics signals a clear shift in power dynamics and is part of the wider "luxuryfication" of sports, which sees brands increasingly targeting middle-class consumers seeking to emulate the lifestyles of elite athletes. What unites these, apparently distant, universes is the pursuit of excellence and quality.

From Chaumet-designed medals to French athletes wearing Berluti-designed outfits at the opening ceremony, and medal bearers donning vintage-style, distinctly French LVMH uniforms, the House’s influence has been evident. And LVMH's investment has already yielded impressive results. The brand has dominated social media conversations surrounding the Games, generating significantly more value than its competitors.

Connecting Beauty, Athletes, and Volunteers – A new era of influencers

The Olympics have always been a platform for showcasing athletic excellence, but today, they're also playing a pivotal role in ushering in a new era of influencers. With gender parity achieved for the first time and the rising influence of Gen Z, beauty culture is becoming an integral part of the sporting landscape.

Gen Z’s seamless integration of beauty into their everyday lives has led to a surge in sports and beauty partnerships, with brands like Glossier and Fenty Beauty leaning into the global exposure of the Olympics to extend their influence with this cohort. 

Glossier's ongoing partnership with the US women's basketball team not only provides athletes with beauty products but also leverages their massive social media following to propel the brand even further in the minds of consumers. As the popularity of the sport, and the individual profile of its star players, continues to soar, Glossier becomes intertwined with a powerful projection of style, success, and excellence. It’s a magnetic mix, and we can expect to see more of these types of collaborations in the future. 

Always a brand taking the most inclusive approach, Fenty Beauty brought another type of influencer to global attention during the Games - the volunteer. Over 600 of them, aged 18 to 21,  received Fenty Beauty makeup kits and tutorials, which allowed them to create “designated looks” with guidance from an on-site MUA (Source: Forbes). The global TV exposure of volunteers during the medal ceremonies ensured Fenty products were consistently on show. 

Beauty - An empowering medium in sports 

Credits: Getty Images/Sam Barnes / Sha'Carri Richardson (left) and Noah Lyles (right)

Forget race times, this year, the Olympics was captivated by a new kind of performance: beauty. Athletes like Sha'Carri Richardson used bold nails, expressive hairstyles, and tattoos to tell their personal stories of resilience and self-belief. From Richardson's Olympic-themed nail gems, emblazoned with her iconic "I'm not back. I'm better" message, to Noah Lyles' electric blue "icon" nails, beauty became a platform for self-expression and empowerment.

It was evident that beauty is increasingly being embraced by athletes as a means of amplifying their stories and achievements on a global stage. In this way, beauty has become an effective medium for connecting supreme health with personal identity.  This taps into a powerful cultural shift: 70% of consumers now prioritize health and appearance, and athletes embody that perfect blend (Source: McKinsey & Co - The top wellness trends in 2024 - January 2024). Beauty brands are taking notice, integrating with sports to connect with an audience where fitness is a core part of their self-identity. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

In this evolving landscape, luxury brands are venturing into the sports arena, aligning their ambitions with a new cultural movement and embracing values of resilience, health, and elevated performance. 

The Olympics have helped to propel a new vision of femininity, one where beauty is intrinsically linked to success. And brands are already adapting to this cultural shift by forging targeted partnerships with sports stars. Serena Williams’ Wyn Beauty, launched in April 2024, exemplifies this integration. Marketed as “makeup you can move in,” Wyn Beauty combines clean, high-performing ingredients with innovative textures designed for active lifestyles. This approach underscores a growing focus on sweat and smudge-proof formulas, addressing the needs of consumers who value both performance and aesthetics.

Similarly, the Athletic Cosmetic Company’s water-resistant mascara, The G.O.A.T. The Greatest of All Time (January 2024), highlights the shift towards cosmetics that withstand rigorous activity. These developments reflect the broader trend of blending beauty with sports, catering to the evolving demands of an active and style-conscious audience.

Further insight and inspiration on the new perceptions of luxury and the links between sport and beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

Gen Alpha – Next Gen Power

Photo: Indu - source Instagram

Generation Alpha is making waves in the beauty industry as indirect purchasers but also as a major influence over other generations. However, the #SephoraKids phenomenon – young skintellectuals buying into adult-skewed beauty brands - has raised concerns regarding marketing to minors and has triggered a wave of scrutiny into beauty brand ethics. Now, this cohort of 2 billion is being catered to by a new wave of brands that speak directly to their needs. 

Who is Gen Alpha?

Gen Alpha is the generation born from 2010 (to 2025), totaling over 2 billion people worldwide - making them the largest generational cohort. More than digital natives, they are also the first generation to experience remote services - from streamed entertainment to virtual classrooms.

Beauty addicts

Gen Alpha is a generation of beauty addicts, with teens now spending an average of $324 annually on core beauty products, up +23% YoY (Source: US - Piper Sander). Gen A’s projected combined spending power in 2024 exceeds $5.39 trillion, surpassing Millennials and outpacing Gen Z. It is clear that there is a huge opportunity for brands to capture the imaginations of this highly engaged demographic.

Major household influencers

Gen Alpha exert more influence over their parents than any other generation that has preceded them - 92% of Gen Alpha parents say their children regularly introduce them to products, services, or brands (Source: DKC’s analytics group). This influence extends over nearly every product category, including Prestige beauty, where spending in households with children outpaces those without (16% vs 6%, Source: Circana). Prestige fragrance sales among higher-income households (over $100,000) with children also grew at twice the rate compared to households without children (Source: Circana Q1, 2024). 

Creating a new Eldorado

Progressive brands are beginning to walk the tightrope between appealing to Gen Alpha skintellectuals while mitigating the ethical dilemma of promoting responsible skincare usage. 

These include brands like Indu (UK), which has just secured $5.1M in seed funding (led by Unilever Ventures) and will launch into US stores in 2025. Formulated for and by teens, Indu works with a community of over 250 young consumers to develop its product range and marketing campaigns. In June, the brand launched the Indu 101 blog - a content platform designed to educate teens about skincare and provide a safe space for experimenting with new makeup trends. Also taking an educational approach, teen skincare brand Byoma (UK) has created the “MiSKINformed” campaign to highlight misinformation in the skincare space.  Bubble (US) recently collaborated with the Pixar movie Inside Out 2 (a movie about the mental health experiences of a pre-teen) to create a three-step barrier-boosting routine designed to address “your days’ ups and downs”. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

Between business opportunities and ethical dilemmas, brands must consider this generation with caution. Successful brands already operating in this space (outlined above) not only share an affordable and accessible price point but also share a transparent approach that appeals to both Alphas and their parents.  Brands must propose age-appropriate answers to young consumers’ needs and take on the role of educators and myth-busters (as we’ve seen Dove and Kiehl’s do to great effect recently).

As Alphas exert their influence over the industry, the agency continues to pay close attention to their behaviors and needs. To understand the specificities of this fascinating new generation of beauty consumers and explore new business opportunities, contact us today for your Gen Alpha Beauty report. In the meantime, you can explore our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the USA: Higher Perspectives, where we dive into the current dynamics shaping the makeup sector.

Design Inspiration: Copenhagen

Photo Credit: Tekla

During June 12-14, international brands and designers descended on the Danish capital for 3daysofdesign. This year’s festival asked exhibitors to “Dare to Dream”, and imagine radical design solutions to today’s challenges. 

Leading Scandinavian brands, including Hay, Tekla, Hem, and Muuto, took part in exhibitions and pop-ups all across the city, showcasing new products, novel concepts and unexpected collaborations. This year, a number of beauty brands also exhibited, exploring the axis of lifestyle and well-being through a series of immersive activations.

At 3daysofdesign, radical ideas tackled contemporary issues – sustainability, inclusivity, health, well-being - but with an emphasis on the type of elevated beauty, emotion and craft that is intrinsic to Scandinavian savoir-faire. 

Within this dream realm, unconventional ideas emerged, carrying profound meanings that hinted at possibilities once thought unattainable.  Designers explored uncharted territory with natural and recycled materials, pushing boundaries for a healthier planet and a more empowered future. While beauty brands demonstrated the overlap of lifestyle, emotion and well-being, via a series of intentional and purposeful activations. Read on to discover Cosmetics IC’s highlights:

The Ordinary x Home in Heven

Photo credits: Frederik Lentz Andersen

The Ordinary, known for its affordable, considered skincare, collaborated with NYC-based conceptual glass studio Home in Heven to create an interactive installation that explored the theme of sustainable reuse.  Riffing on the brand’s core pillar of transparency, Heven created sculptural (fully working) glass bathroom vanities, made from recycled The Ordinary bottles. 

Aesop Aromatorium

Photo Credits: Brian Buchard / Aesop

Aesop introduced the multi-sensorial Aromatorium at Transcendence, a new exhibition concept in Refshaleøen. Curated by renowned Danish architect Frederikke Aagaard, Transcendence seeks to challenge our understanding, perception, and acceptance of materials in the objects and experiences around us.

The Aromatorium invites visitors to tell the time through scent - fragrances are chosen to reflect different times of the day and are dispensed directly on the wrists via a lab-like device. The travelling booth (first shown at Milan Design Week) brings Aesop’s fragrances to life in a uniquely multi-sensorial way. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

The relationship between the home and personal well-being is reinforced by the growing presence of beauty brands at key global design events.  Dive deeper into the latest wellness trends in our Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, available now.

Inspiration Tours: Introducing Berlin

Art Museum - Berlin - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Renowned for its avant-garde art scene, cutting-edge nightlife and conceptual retail, Berlin never fails to inspire. Cosmetics IC recently visited the cultural capital to discover how one of Europe’s most vibrant cities is becoming a key hub for Beauty inspiration. Art Director Solène Albecq reveals her three must-visit stores.

1- HIGHSNOBIETY

Highsnobiety - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Unter den Linden 40

10117 Berlin

Open: Monday to Saturday 11am-7pm 

www.highsnobiety.com

ID Sheet

Purveyor of street and sneaker culture Highsnobiety has opened a new flagship store in the heart of Berlin’s Mitte district.  With a raw, industrial aesthetic, the store’s interior embraces the type of utilitarian aesthetic synonymous with 20th-century Berlin architecture. The material palette includes concrete, styrofoam, glass and stainless steel, which provides the ideal minimalistic backdrop to the meticulously curated collection of menswear, womenswear, accessories, sneaker, lifestyle and beauty brands. 

Inspiration Seeds

Agility is a key component of the store experience - the vast space is designed for flexibility, and will become a space for community interactions and brand activations. The aim is to build a real-life cultural hub on par with Highsnobiety’s online profile. 

2- LAUNDROMAT

Laundromat - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Stargarder Strasse 74

10437 Berlin

Open: Tuesday to Friday 2pm-8pm, Saturday 11am-8pm

ID Sheet

Laundromat is a new store concept from Adidas that offers clothing rentals, curated second-hand items and collaborations with local artists. Adidas branding is kept to a discreet minimum - the aim here is to emphasise sustainability through rentals and by extending clothing lifespans. Local rental platform Pool offers a hand-picked selection of Adidas items, while the Berlin-based Westend Vintage provides an edit of cult retro streetwear and sneakers (collaborators will change regularly). 

Inspiration Seeds

This is a bold concept from Adidas, which leverages Gen Z’s appetite for re-sell and second-hand clothing to elevate its sustainability message. The store, designed to resemble a laundromat, is a constantly evolving space that is intended to platform local creatives, artists and brands that share a community-centric, planet-friendly approach.

3- FRAU-TONIS PARFUME

Frau-Tonis Parfume - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Zimmerstraße 13

10969 Berlin

Open: Monday to Wednesday 10am-6pm, Thursday to Saturday 10am to 7pm

www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

ID Sheet

A must-visit for fragrance buffs, Frau-Tonis Parfume produces contemporary, unisex scents inspired by nature and the city itself. The minimalistic philosophy extends to the brand’s marketing (there is none) and their sales approach is one of customer-led exploration. All scents are made in Berlin. 

Inspiration Seeds 

Customers are invited to create their own perfumes, assisted by brand scent experts, and made at the in-store workshop. Everything here is about clarity and transparency - of ingredients and process.

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation. Contact the team today for more information.

CONTACT US

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)

IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris),  our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023. 

• GFC Life Science – Camellia Stem-Exo (Korea) 

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

• Exolab Italia – Exo Elixir Camellia Sinensis (Italy)

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair. 

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

• CHAMeditech – CHA-Centella CA6 Probiotic EV & CHA-Tremella TF1 Probiotic EV (Korea)

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors 

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

• LipoTrue – Frag-Brillin remastered™ (Spain)

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

• Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – Corneopeptyl™ (Swiss - recently bought by Clariant)

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

• Odycea – Opal Alga GW (France) 

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.

2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY 

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

• Active Concepts – AC Exovitalize (Italy) 

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

• Bicosome – Bicobiome® (Spain) 

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

• CORE Biogenesis – Peauvita™ (France) 

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.

3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

AI-assisted development

• Bloomage Biotechnology – Bloomcolla™ Coll III (China) 

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

• Cargill – Actigum™ Care (USA)

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.

The Cosmetics IC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities. 

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

The Cosmetics IC Take

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)

Beauty Soundbites: Higher Futures, MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024

For MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024, Cosmetics IC hosted a series of four Beauty Talks to highlight the agency’s predictions for the year ahead. We will be highlighting the key talking points from some of our sessions and sharing a snapshot of the interviews that took place with a panel of top industry players, here on the Cosmetic Seeds blog. A full summary of all four talks, including in-depth interviews, key products and takeaways, is available now.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - Leila Rochet / Capsum - Sébastien Bardon / Haus Labs by Lady Gaga - Gloria Ryu

The Beauty Talk: Higher Futures - The transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty

Exploring the axis of artistry and science, performance and sensation, Higher Futures represents the agency’s analysis of the transformative power of a science-centric approach to beauty. The arrival of new technologies presents brands with bold opportunities to innovate and meet the rising expectations for exceptional solutions and elevated experiences. 

“There is a growing demand for very emotionally compelling and liberating physical experiences. Consumers are looking for groundbreaking experiences, groundbreaking innovation, extraordinary performance levels. It is beyond what they were looking for in the past, especially in the performance arena, but also in sensoriality.”  Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC

This desire for elevated experiences has been building since COVID, and in today’s polycrisis era, it has become an even more essential facet of the beauty routine. Consumers’ need for enhanced performance inspired a refocus of Lady Gaga’s Haus Labs in 2020, as the brand switched to a science-led innovation strategy. Critically, Haus Lab’s shift also introduced a new level of sensoriality into the beauty experience. This is a key facet of the work of Capsum - a contract manufacturer that specializes in microfluidic encapsulation technology, which makes it possible to assemble ingredients in a radically new way, controlling stability and heightening the sensory effect.  Joining Leila to discuss how a science-centric approach is transforming the world of beauty was Sebastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum and Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs By Lady Gaga.

Read on for a snapshot of Leila’s wide-ranging interview with Sebastien and Gloria from February 2024:

Leïla Rochet: Gloria, can you tell us about the decision to relaunch Haus Labs with a scientific approach?

Gloria Ryu: Our patented Fermented Arnica was born while experimenting with one of our R&D partners. Sarah Tanno, who is our Global Artistry Director, Lady Gaga, and the rest of the team were in the lab brainstorming on what we could do from a material perspective, and how to build products from the inside out - very much starting from the raw material phase. With our foundation, it's been marketed that we spent 10,000 hours in the lab, developing that product, an insane number of hours! It's very interesting because our pillars are artistry, science, and inclusivity and for us, it's about the intersection of those three. 

Leïla: Sébastien, you introduced microfluidic technology to the Beauty industry. Can you explain what that is?

Sébastien Bardon: When you develop custom products you use between 10 and 50 ingredients, and as you do in your kitchen, you mix them all together, right? But what we do is that we separate them into different phases, which can be up to five different phases, and then we produce the product one drop at a time. So we're making millimeter-sized drops of oil, containing the perfume and actives, that are going to be dropped into the hydrophilic formula. 

The reason we decided to apply microfluidics to Beauty is because you can bring multiple benefits. I think the simplest benefit is the visual aspect - we create products that are beautiful, and that helps brands differentiate one from the other. 

Leïla: Gloria, how do you see the skinification shift in relation to Haus Labs?

Gloria: I love the fact that our consumers and our community are so much more savvy, and really push brands to elevate from a higher standard of quality, execution, and performance. So it challenges us to push our partners to figure out that delicate balance between artistry, and performance.

Leïla: And what does skinification mean to Capsum?

Sébastien: It is obviously about adding active ingredients to your makeup, but it's also about bringing a new skin feel to makeup. We have achieved this with some brands, making makeup products that have a really nice skin feel, and freshness. They also speak for themselves because they have encapsulated pigments, and as a consumer, you understand very clearly this product is going to give you a makeup effect.

Leïla: Gloria, as head of PD, can you tell us a little more about the challenges in creating makeup that is both artistic and skincare-driven?

Gloria: Lady Gaga is an incredible futurist and visionary and her team has such a high standard of excellence in terms of performance. It’s got to withstand her dancing and performing two hours on stage, and when she takes it off her skin shouldn’t be red or irritated. It's a very fluid approach, it's the art and science synergy.

The Cosmetics IC Take

Haus Labs and Capsum demonstrate how science and technology can be applied beyond performance to elevate the artistry and sensoriality of a product, placing innovation at the heart of product storytelling. A science-centric approach is now an essential strategy for brands to meet consumers’ ever-evolving expectations for sustainability, performance and sensoriality.

Contact the team today for a full summary and transcript of our session with Gloria and Sebastian, and all of the Beauty Talks presented exclusively at MakeUp in Los Angeles, available as one comprehensive report. Our 2024 trend white book, The Age of Thrill, is also available now.

MEET THE FOUNDER - Talking Clean Beauty with Annie Jackson, CEO and Co-Founder of Credo

Annie Jackson is one of the most influential female leaders in the US, she has been a key player in the beauty space since her early career with Estee Lauder before becoming part of the team that launched Sephora USA. Just over a decade ago, Annie co-founded the clean beauty retailer Credo, which is now firmly established as one of America’s top sustainable beauty champions. 

“Annie Jackson is one of the leading voices in the clean beauty and sustainability movement. As co-founder and now CEO of Credo, Annie is uniquely positioned to offer insight into the evolution of the clean beauty space and share her thoughts on how the industry must adapt to ensure a better tomorrow. With value being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, brands are being driven to consider the future implications of products. Credo is a pro-active steward of progress, working alongside brands to evolve sustainability standards that go far beyond current consumer expectations.” Leila Rochet – Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

At the recent MakeUp in Los Angeles event, Annie joined our Chief Innovation Officer, Leila Rochet, to discuss one of the agency’s key trends for 2024 - Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future.

Read on for an exclusive extract of Leila and Annie’s Beauty Talk, where Annie shares her vision for the future of clean beauty and reveals the shifting priorities of Credo consumers.

Leila Rochet: How did your journey into Beauty unfold, leading to your role today as CEO of Credo? 

Annie Jackson: We started on the concept for Credo back in 2013 and opened our first store in 2015. We just opened our 16th location. We are a physical retail concept. While digital is very important to any business today, meeting the customers where they are in neighborhoods, where people are living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, and investing in their health, is where you will find a Credo. We want people to be able to explore and find new brands, try the products, and work with our estheticians and makeup artists. And that's our continued focus. 

Back in 2013 we really wanted to see if you could make a brand that was as efficacious as a conventional beauty brand in formula and packaging but with primarily plant ingredients in more sustainable options. We took the cue from the organic food movement and realized that people were investing in healthier options and educating themselves on what products they wanted to buy.  So we were curious, could we find enough brands to fill this store? We opened our first store in San Francisco, going head to head-with conventional beauty brands. We started with about 60 brands and we have 105 today. About a quarter of those brands we started with are still with us a decade later. 

Leila: There must have been a lot of challenges when you started. How do they compare to the challenges you face today? 

Annie:  Well, I think I can safely say for any entrepreneur or any founder out there, it's never a straight line. We had the COVID crisis in the middle of trying to grow a physical retail business, which is extremely capital-intensive.  Also, when we started we had this ecosystem of brands which were really celebrating finding a retail partner and wanted to grow alongside us.  The customer base has now grown so much that these brands are scaling and growing into bigger retailers, which is amazing. The fact that retailers with a larger footprint than Credo are committed to putting safer products on their shelves is an amazing thing. But from a business standpoint, it becomes quite challenging because that hurts our market share. It's a tricky one.

Yet, it hasn't made us any less passionate about what we do. We are striving to make a positive impact in the beauty industry and so we're often shoulder to shoulder with our competitors - Sephora, Ulta, Detox Market, and others. But you know, we're all in this together. And I think the more we can band together to make better choices for human health, it's a good thing.

Leila: How do you make sure that the products that you sell in your retailers are the safest ones? 

Annie: Before, we were manually checking products against our standard, but today we use a technology platform called Novi. We've also invested in a rock star team of impact specialists who come from environmental, toxicology, and science backgrounds, to help guide us. Today,  what we're doing as an organization is questioning if there could be a better way. For us, the secret sauce is finding brands that are not just meeting our standards, they're exceeding them, or they have a path to exceed. What makes me so proud of the brand community that we have is that these people have rolled up their sleeves and done the hard work - they're paying more money, and they're taking more time to bring products to market. And they're challenging the contract manufacturing community to look at other ingredients and explore other options. 

Leila: How do you help your consumers navigate all these changes and what are you seeing as their priority? 

Annie: From the outset, our customers have always been concerned about packaging. In the early days, while we vetted brands against a restricted substance list,  consumers were always saying, “I hate all this plastic!”. Customers are absolutely invested in being part of the solution. We co-founded the packaging collection program Pact Collective along with other stakeholders, but we also have the conversation on the selling floor about what is recyclable. The next thing that's top of mind for us is looking at ingredients that have no data and examining the assumption that they're safe or good for you. So we're starting to dig into that with Chem Forward, who are a nonprofit partner. It may mean that some products at Credo go away, but, you know, that's why we're here and that's the work that we're doing today.

Leila: According to Nielsen IQ - 61% of US consumers associate sustainability with benefiting the planet, while just 26% associate it with societal contributions. Credo has been active on matters like ethical sourcing of Mica, do you see ethical transparency as the next step for the industry?

Annie: Yes, I do. I think whether people are buying beauty products, or beer, or cars, they are much more invested in finding out information before they choose a product. And so it could be a source of ingredients, it could be packaging, it could be what a founder says on social media… it could be all of those pieces together. Gen Z has the highest bar of any customer out there, and they expect you to have all these things in place. They want the product to be all those things, with an entry-level price point, and a cool look and feel. They want it all. And that generation is growing up, they've got more spending power, and those are the brands that they're looking for. So I think it's a super exciting time. 

Leila: Education is one of Credo's core pillars - what tools and techniques do you use to educate consumers?

Annie: We have an education team and we invest most of our time in terms of associated selling preparation on training. Our dream is to have our brands be as well known on the selling floor as the brand founders themselves know them. We want our sales associates to know our brands intimately, so we spend most of our time on education, in terms of brand product knowledge, but also on what our standards are. I would say probably the most engaged customer that we have at Credo is someone who's expecting a child. These people are typically really invested in the choices they're making. 

Leila: In a previous interview in Vogue Business, you talked about moving “beyond clean beauty”, can you explain what you mean by this? 

Annie: It's really about moving beyond the restricted substance list, and understanding that the customer has embraced a much more holistic view of what clean or green beauty means to them. It involves packaging, people, ethics… just real transparency. I can say from experience that Beauty is a pretty opaque industry, and it’s not inherently forthcoming about what's in products, and who the people are that these brands are working with. By no means does Credo have everything figured out perfectly, but we're digging into things that should be very transparent to the customer. That's what people expect today. 

When I was talking about going beyond clean, it is because people tend to hear “clean beauty”, and they just think of ingredients, and that's it. But we're embarking on meeting our first sustainable packaging milestone this year, where our brand partners needed to reach 50% or greater PCR content. We put that out in the universe in 2020 and that's where we've been spending most of our time. From an ingredients standpoint, it's much more cut and dry, like, do you have these ingredients, or don't you? But on the packaging front, it's really been us linking arms with our brand partners and saying, we got to do better. We have to at the end of the day. The reality is we're in an industry where we sell products, and so if you're going to do that then let's invest in things that are just better for people and the planet.

KEY TAKEAWAYS:

• Consumers want increasingly healthier options that align with their healthy lifestyles and are educating themselves before making purchase decisions.

• Brands must be prepared to pay more and work harder to achieve outstanding results and push the culture of clean beauty forward. Dig deeper, and engage with technology platforms to help validate ingredients and materials.

• Packaging remains a key sticking point for the beauty industry and is a top concern for sustainably-motivated consumers. 

• Young consumers have a much wider definition of clean beauty that encompasses ingredient safety, packaging, ethical sourcing, and social purpose.

• Retailers should center education in staff training and services to meet the consumer’s level of knowledge and enhance the product discovery experience on the shop floor.

To discover more about our key territory for 2024, Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future, contact the Cosmetics IC team today for your copy of our 2024 White Book: The Age of Thrill. Many thanks to the wonderful Annie Jackson, and all of our brilliant guest speakers at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024!

White Book 2024: The Age of Thrill

Death to Stock - Photo by Fanette Guilloud

As technology and science become integral facets of our always-evolving lifestyles, a growing demand emerges for elevated and indulgent experiences.  Our latest White Book explores The Age of Thrill, an era energized by radical innovations that will deliver extraordinary sensations and take performance levels to extreme new heights.

In an era marked by uncertainties and polycrisis, there is a growing demand for emotionally compelling and exhilarating physical experiences, especially with our ever-evolving lifestyles. Consumers are now invigorated by groundbreaking innovations that offer extra-ordinary sensations while elevating performance to unprecedented levels.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

The agency has identified the following five trends for 2024 and beyond, which represent the need for brands to meet heightened expectations around performance, creativity, and sustainability. 

1/ HIGHER FUTURE: The transformative impact of science-centric approaches 

In the future, all experiences will be hybrid, and product innovation will be committed to maximizing performance. New technologies and scientific discoveries, forefronted by Artificial Intelligence, will transform consumers' expectations, taking results-focused beauty to even higher levels. 

• AI will revolutionize retail experiences and services. In the summer of 2023, Ulta Beauty partnered with Haut AI to bring personalized skincare diagnostics to the in-store experience. Haut AI has also developed SkinGPT - a skincare platform that uses generative AI to visually simulate the effects of products over time, based on a combination of a personalized quiz, uploaded images, and clinical data.

• AI-powered bots will become a familiar feature outside of the professional salon space, meeting the demand for faster and budget-friendly options. Offering quick and affordable nail polish applications ($10) the mani-bot Clockwork is growing its presence across the US with a strategic focus on residential complexes and airports.

• In beauty, a mindset rooted in science and focused on solutions is making waves and is being embraced by consumers driven by tangible outcomes. Amorepacific’s latest innovation, the Lipcure Beam (CES Innovation Award 2024 – Korea) employs precision sensor and diagnostic technology to deliver next-level care.  The device’s cap diagnoses the moisture levels and condition of the lips, while a brush-like applicator emits customized visible light to aid in lip care.

2/ TRANSIENT UTOPIA: Revisiting the codes of lifestyle

Beauty adapts to always-on-the-move lifestyles, as the thirst for leisure and the rising nomad economy drive innovation. The travel surge calls for refreshed routines and simpler, smarter formats that reimagine the practical nature of makeup. 

• At PFW SS24, (September 2023 - France) Miu Miu presented a collection inspired by the future omni-traveler. Workwear was mixed with beachwear, sportswear was paired with eveningwear, as the brand played with the concept of “prototypical fashion”, reflecting the growing eclecticism of people’s daily lives. 

• Climatic changes will continue to impact choices and behaviors, calling for new cooling sensations and soothing textures. Like those offered by the After Sun Gel from cult suncare brand Vacation (April 2023), which is primed to cool and soothe the skin after sun exposure.

• Demand for intelligent SPF hybrids will rise as daily defense becomes central to the preparation for a better future. Combining a cooling sensation with SPF 50+, the TIRTIR Off The Sun Air Mousse SPF 50+ (April 2023 - Korea) features 2% Zero-Cooling Complex which is proven to reduce skin temperature by -4.8 degrees Celsius.

3/EXTRA-VAGANCE: Bringing the extraordinary into the everyday

Consumers are turning to lavish indulgences and grandiose gestures as a riposte to the daily grind of the recession. A new cohort of thrill-seekers are maxing out on experiences and eschewing convention to party through the permacrisis, exemplified by the monumental economic success of Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour.

• Every aspect of Beyonce’s wardrobe and makeup for her Renaissance tour was analyzed and dissected on social media (#renaissancetour has garnered 3.9B views on TikTok), triggering a flurry of copycat looks and giving wings to the concept of #concertmakeup.

• Celebratory looks are rising, and consumers are looking to their favorite idols for inspiration on how to introduce lavish gestures into their every day. In Korea, crystal nose-bridge embellishments have become a new way to wear face gems, thanks to fans spotting them on K-pop idols Jennie and Rosé from Blackpink during their Coachella performance. The look went viral on social media, with fans rushing to recreate the distinctive look.

• Unseen Beauty (UK) is one brand that is driven to deliver extraordinary experiences, bringing unexpectedly luxe finishes to makeup. The  SPECTRA Eye Colour contains glass microspheres, half-coated with aluminum to transform the product into a bright, reflective silver under a phone camera's flash. Making it the ideal accompaniment to a night out.

4/ SYMBIOTIC EDEN: Adapting for a better future

Value is being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, driving brands to consider the future implications of products. As the climate crisis continues to unfold, innovation will come to the foreground of beauty as consumers look for solutions to increasingly prominent issues caused by environmental deterioration. 

• Waste solutions will continue to rise, and will be encircled into new retail concepts. Greez (February 2023 - France) is a resale platform for unsold cosmetics, while This is Beauty (June 2023 – US) is an online retailer that works with global brands to keep products with damaged packaging away from landfill.

• The acceleration of vertical farming (employed to great success by Ulé and Caudalie), opens up new territories of tech-driven sustainable sourcing. German brand Gezeiten worked with marine biologists and biotechnologists to study over a hundred compounds to develop Earth Marine CellTech Complex® - a combination of patented marine extracts and a mineral-rich submarine water concentrate. The complex is at the core of its new Face Cream (April 2023), which is packed with active biotech ingredients.

• Plastic-free solutions will continue to rise with packaging companies like Verity (US) proposing metal as a solution for beauty, or Notpla (UK) which is exploring the potential of regenerative packaging(UK).

5/ EXPANDED CARE: Emotional-bonding beauty

As stress levels continue to rise in this period of permacrisis (61% of Americans say their stress is at an all-time high, while 89% of Chinese adults are actively seeking ways to reduce stress), emotional-bonding becomes essential in daily behavior.

• In beauty, this manifests in the rise of comfort-boosting textures and new psychodermatalogical narratives, which are propelled by TikTok. The issue of skin sensitivity and barrier protection presents a new opportunity for brands to innovate from the perspective of emotional care.  The success of Rare Beauty (expected to exceed $300 million in sales in 2023 according to Fast Company), opens the path to more emotion-infused beauty products. 

• Circadian beauty will continue to flourish as consumers look to align their well-being goals with their skincare ambitions. Complimentary skincare and supplement brand You’re Looking Well (UK)  has developed the Night Pill & Night Cream (August 2023) to help users optimize their sleep. Infused with ingredients to prepare the body for rest and help the skin recover, the two products work in tandem with the skin’s circadian rhythm to deliver a well-rested glow and a clear mind.

• Clariant has been exploring the potential of neurocosmetics primed to tackle the effects of lack of sunlight exposure on the mood, and the skin.  In a presentation titled, "An Innovative Light-biomimetic Solution Stimulating Feel-good Hormones and Cognitive Relaxation to Tackle Lack of Sunlight Exposure and Dull Skin" Mathilde Frechet of Clariant outlined how the butterfly plants rich tormentic acid content enhances cognitive relaxation and skin complexion by amplifying the vitamin D pathway and hormonal production. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

This culture of thrill-seeking will impact our vision of beauty, awakening a more pluriversal mindset and establishing next-level expectations, propelling beauty in a Protopian trajectory.

For the full version of our White Book, or for more information on any of our innovation and forecasting services, drop us a line today.

Ingredient Inspiration: Cosmet’Agora 2024

Arthur Mazi via Unsplash

The 16th edition of Cosmet’agora was held in Paris on 16 - 17 January 2024, showcasing the latest ingredient and formulation innovations. Fresh from the event, our Scientific & Product Expert, Enora Le Roux, deciphers the emerging ingredient trends that will impact tomorrow’s beauty. Below, discover 3 fields of innovation to inspire your future product creation.

“This year saw the influx of technology and science as the answer to tomorrow’s primary concerns around issues of sustainability, innocuity, and wellness.”  Scientific & Product Expert at Cosmetics IC, Enora Le Roux. 

1. Biotech - When nature meets new extraction technologies

Google search data reveals there is still high demand for biotech ingredients (+7.5% YoY, with a forecast increase of +24.3% over the next 12 months, according to Spate), as consumers lean into the possibilities of tech-enhanced nature to support their high-performance expectations. 

Provital – CircanblueTM (July 2023)

As the conversation around cyclical biorhythms gains traction in the wellness space (#circadianrhythm – 116.6M views on TikTok, January 2024) Provital demonstrates how overexposure to digital technology disrupts the peripheral circadian clocks in the skin, which play a key role in regulating its physiological metabolism. 

In response, Provital developed Circanblue™,  a vegan postbiotic active obtained via a plant-based fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. It re-synchronizes the skin’s natural circadian cycle after this has been altered by excessive Blue Light exposure - a concern growing amongst consumers on social media (#bluelight – 471.8M views on TikTok, January 2024) as they align their wellness and skincare goals.

Key Assets:

Vegan postbiotic / Obtained through biotechnology from cabbage (fermentation) / Regulates the skin’s circadian clock 🡪 “circabiology – science of resynchronization” / Regulates the impact of Blue Light on the circadian cycle

Lipotrue – Calisensix (January 2024)

Addressing rising cases of skin sensitivity, Lipotrue has developed Calisensix, a unique solution that resolves neurogenic inflammation while at the same time enhancing pleasant sensations in the skin.

Calisensix™ targets sensitive skin from both a holistic (sensorial) and biological approach, using plant stem cell technology obtained from the bark of white willow and tomato plants. There is growing interest in the potential regenerative benefits of stem cells for skincare - Spate reports a +27% increase in Google searches YoY( 2022 vs 20223), while TikTok views of #stemcells have clocked over 231.7M (January 2024).

Key Assets:

Resolves neurogenic inflammation / Targets nociception in keratinocytes / Boosts PIEZO1 to enhance pleasant sensations in sensitive skin

Biolie – Garnet Red (January 2024)

Meeting the continued demand for ultra-healthy cosmetics ingredients, Biolie has developed a solvent and water-free enzymatic extraction process - a zero-waste, 100% green technology. This bio-based enzymatic extraction method enables the creation of natural actives from plant-based raw materials, such as microalgae, beechnut, chicory seed, and lettuce. The lab’s latest ingredient, launched at the show, is Garnet Red - a natural lipophilic red dye for makeup and skincare applications.

Key Assets:

Natural antioxidant / Stable to heat and UV / Sustainable, 100% natural / Vegan alternative to Carmin

2. Longevity - Answering pro-aging/pre-aging concerns

The science and semantics of longevity are entering the skincare conversation, as the desire to live longer and healthier impacts consumers’ expectations of skincare performance. Biohacking culture, spurred by outrageously ambitious procedures undertaken by Silicon Valley billionaires, is taking over TikTok, with views of #reverseaging videos clocking over 180.7M views (January 2024).

In skincare, “anti-aging” ingredients are now “pro-longevity” ingredients. 

Lubrizol – Uplevity e-Lift Peptide (September 2023)

Tapping into the rising interest in Microcurrent Facials (+27% increase in Google searches in 2023 vs 2022, according to Spate), Lubrizol has captured the uplifting and firming results of microcurrent devices into a sustainable and naturally derived tetrapeptide. The powerful active mimics the benefits of electrical stimulation on the skin, increasing collagen production and improving mitochondrial function for an anti-aging effect. 

Key Assets:

Peptidic active / For lifting and firming effect / Focus on the up of the face (eye contour) / Inspired by the effect of the microcurrent tools: stimulate an electric stimulation of the derma (cell contraction) / Results at 7 and 28 days

Mibelle – RejuveNAD (November 2023) 

The role of NAD+ in cellular processes continues to gather interest, with consumer searches for NAD up +24.2% YoY (2023 vs 2022, Spate), as they investigate ways of boosting regeneration for anti-aging results. 

RejuveNAD™from Mibelle introduces the possibility of boosting NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications (rather than via supplements). The ingredient, derived from indoor-farmed sunflower sprouts,  targets age-related processes by optimizing cellular functions, and revitalizing the skin by naturally boosting levels of NAD+. According to Mibelle, the skin looks eight years younger in 42 days. Google searches for NAD have increased +24.2% YoY 

Key Assets:

NAD booster / For skin longevity / Obtained from sunflower sprouts from indoor farming / Acts on 5 of the 9 pillars of skin aging

3. Adaptive: Formulating for climate-adaptive freshness 

The post-pandemic revenge travel surge is set to continue, with 54% of respondents saying they’ll take even more international trips in 2024 than they did in 2023 (Going – The State of Travel – 2024). A culture of nomadism is fuelling a new category of Flexcare - beauty adapted for the unique specificities of travel, which prioritizes convenience and freshness. In this context, we noted several key innovations that center claims of climate-adaptiveness and refreshing sensations. 

The return of travel and rising global temperatures are driving consumers to search out cooling and refreshing sensations - TikTok views of the hashtags #skincarecooling and #skincooling are at 280.1M and 43.8M, respectively ( January 2024).

Unipex – Frozen Glow - Meeting this rising demand is Unipex’s Frozen Glow, which is formulated for a deeply refreshing effect. Frozen Glow contains peppermint leaf water, which stimulates blood circulation to restore the skin’s radiance and impart cooling and toning benefits. 

Key Assets:

Solid emulsion water/wax / Contains H2Olixir Peppermint from Berkem for purifying, toning, and refreshing / A combination of two inverse emulsifiers: Evicare® PGPR from Evident & GlucateTMDO from Lubrizol / Using a new brand’s technology to add hydrophilic actives

PolymerExpert – AquaStick

Combining the need for a convenient format with refreshing effects, the AquaStick is formulated to deliver the fresh feeling of water on the skin, with the soothing sensation of a cream. There is huge interest in on-the-go suncare formats - TikTok views of the hashtag #skincarestick are at 277.8B (January 2024) - presenting a huge opportunity for innovation.

Key Assets: 

Innovating galenic: solid format with 50% of aqueous phase / 100% natural fragrance with aquatic notes that enhance the sensation of freshness

Roelmi France - Ready Stick Go

Designed specifically to combat the effects of sports on the skin, the water-free stick contains microbiota actives that impart a cooling effect while keeping the skin hydrated during activities.

Key Assets:

Water-free / Fast hydration / Cooling effect / Multitasking functionality 

Special thanks to all the exhibitors for taking the time to explain their new ingredients.

The Cosmetics IC Take

In our latest Skincare Inspiration from the US report – Transformative Beauty - we explore the product and ingredient innovations impacting the US market and decipher the implications for future innovations.

Contact us today for your copy, and for details of our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024). Find us at booth L36, where we will host our signature Inspiration Bar and Beauty Talks, highlighting our future predictions for 2024 and beyond.

Trend Inspiration: Maison&Objets 2024

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

With the theme of Tech Eden, the 30th-anniversary edition of Maison&Objet (18-22 January, Paris) invited exhibitors to consider how the symbiosis of technology and nature will inform future design scenarios. 

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Coralie Arme, Forecasting & Insights Consultant, explored the show at Paris’ Parc Expo Villepinte, to uncover the top 3 fields of innovation to inspire future-focused solutions for the beauty industry. 

“This year's theme explored the vital links between technology and nature, showcasing future-facing design that improves overall well-being and prioritizes environmental sustainability.” Coralie Arme, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Consultant in Forecasting and Insights. 

1.Symbio-tech: Augmenting nature

WINT Design Lab perfectly embodied the show’s symbiotic emphasis, as the Berlin-based design and research lab explored the relationship between ecological and technological responsibilities.

The studio overcomes disciplinary silos to tackle today's challenges through various projects including bio-textile innovation. Collaborating with biotech startup Mimotype, WINT has developed a high-performance outdoor textile created from 100% collagen. Through this future-proof innovation, the design lab is tapping into the potential of quick iteration cycles.

In beauty,  there is a growing normalization of human augmentation through technology (AI-supported healthcare, adaptive and personalized systems, circadian rhythm lighting, etc).  Harnessing technology to stimulate natural processes, Solaris Laboratories’ LED Intensive Hair Growth Stimulating Brush is an advanced hair and scalp treatment technology that helps prevent hair loss and reverse thinning hair. 

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Solaris Laboratories NY - Photo by Cosmetics IC

2. Upscaling waste: Imagining new-gen materials

Mâche&Maché is a culinary design studio committed to exploring the hyper-future of food. For the show, at the “Inspire me!” by Peclers corner, the studio showcased “Papier Alimentaire” - an edible (and decorative) packaging material made from waste fruit and vegetables designed for large-scale use in the food industry. According to the studio, for sustainable food to be widely accepted, it must offer a more desirable experience than today's standard fare.

In the wellness corner, Japanese brand Incense Kitchen showcased a new incense created from repurposed matcha. The brand advocates recycling matcha into tea incense (instead of perfume) to prevent the wasteful disposal of fine matcha particles in factory machines and air purifiers, providing an alternative and more sustainable outcome.

Mâche&Maché x Peclers - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Incense Kitchen - Photo by Cosmetics IC

3. Healing homes: Anti-anxiety interiors

When one crisis follows another, the actions needed to respond sometimes seem out of reach. Modern society is gripped by an anxiety epidemic, and designers are charged with providing solutions that holistically ease discomfort. The notions of sensoriality and fluidity are thus at the heart of tomorrow's design challenges. 

Furniture and objects exhibited sinuous, undulating curves to give everyday settings the air of primitive landscapes with spiritual dimensions. Roundness is as de rigueur as ever, transforming living spaces into cocoons of comfort. Sofas, armchairs, and chairs play a common score, that of an enveloping, reassuring hug.

Mathieu Lehanneur's "Outonomy" offers an alternative vision of survivalist habitats. By questioning the kind of life we want to lead, Outonomy proposes a return to an original cave, with the comforts we no longer wish to give up.

In beauty, Austrian skincare brand Be […] my friend uses only the purest organic, plant-based ingredients to provide maximum care for the skin, while at the same time minimizing stress. The two pillars of the brand are to elevate the way the skin is treated, while simultaneously elevating the way the environment is treated. 

“Outonomy” by Mathieu Lehanneur - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Be [..] my friend - Photo by Cosmetics IC

The Cosmetics IC Take

Tech Eden suggests a Protopian vision of the future - a natural awakening, enriched by technological innovations - from biotextiles and 3D printing to AI-powered design. Nature remains omnipresent through radical interpretations of color, form, and material.

In our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US report - Protopian Beauty - we investigate the latest product innovations in the US and explore how technological acceleration is paving the way for a  more progressive future. For more information on this report, and for details on our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024) - drop us a line today.