TikTok: 2023 End of Year Inspiration

To wrap up a year of inspiration, the CIC team has analysed the TikTok trends that dominated in the last months of 2023 - from superhero-inspired effects and sugar-glazed wintery hues to intentionally unsettling makeup. 


1. RAINBOW MASK

With its links to the LGBTQIA+ pride flag, Rainbow Mask makeup involves creating a spectrum of colours across the eye area, in the shape of a superhero mask. To begin, two strips of tape are placed on the face, above and below the eyes, to create a defined area for applying makeup.

White eyeshadow powder is then applied as a base, with different colours layered on top to create a rainbow effect. The tape is removed to reveal the mask effect. For finishing touches, the look is enhanced with hand-drawn artistry, gems and 3D embellishments.

There are alternative approaches, such as James Charles' preference for a mask in shades of pink with clouds, but the fundamental concept remains the same.

Key hashtags: #rainbowmask: 3.5M views / #rainbowmakeup: 349.5M views

Key influencers: @lucasrodgerss/ @mimiermakeup/ @beatsbydeb/ @nikkietutorials/ @jamescharles  

 
 

2. Sugar Plum Fairy

Once again, Hailey Bieber triggered another viral makeup trend, this time fusing food-inspired narratives with her signature, Clean Girl coquettishness to declare winter 23/24, Sugar Plum Fairy season. Inspired by her childhood role in The Nutcracker, Bieber posted a festive look that riffs on the ballet’s iconic Land of Sweets segment, using sugary, shimmery pink hues with plum undertones.

To create the look, bright pink blush is extended from the cheeks to the temple and draped across the bridge of the nose and the eyes to create a frost-bitten glow.  Plum, berry, warm pink, and mauve colours are also used by TikTokkers, reflecting the look on different skin tones. Defining her brows and adding a subtle glow with highlighter, Bieber then adds faux freckles. The look is completed by the Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment in the limited-edition shade Jelly Bean (a shimmery sheer pink).

Sugar Plum Fairy makeup builds on several key trends that surfaced last year (most of which were perpetuated by Bieber herself), blending the glow of #CleanGirl with the pink hues of #Balletcore.

Rising hashtags: #sugarplumfairy: 129M views/ #ballet: 19.8B views/ #balletcore: 1.4B views

Key influencers: @haileybieber/ @alissajanay1/ @victorialyn

 
 

3. Uncanny Valley Makeup

The Uncanny Valley trend, popularised by creator Emilia Barth, gained widespread attention at the end of 2023, thanks to her unsettling transformation into a humanoid robot. Using pale foundation and concealer, liquid eyeliner, and contour powder, Barth mimics the plasticky appearance of a robot’s skin, creating an eerily captivating effect.

The look is inspired by the slightly awkward imagery often generated by AI, which has flooded the public consciousness in recent months. TikTokkers have been quick to capture this uneasy aesthetic by recreating the almost otherworldly looks. Part robotic and part doll-like, the finished result is purposefully unnerving, with TikTokkers adding exaggerated facial expressions and haunting choral music to double-down on the uncanny effect. The trend now extends beyond mere makeup application, to include an Uncanny Valley-inspired filter. With its esoteric and unconventional themes, #UncannyValley occupies the same universe as #weirdcore and #dreamcore, as Gen Z continues to explore increasingly extreme and subversive narratives as a form of self-expression.

Rising hashtags: #uncannyvalleymakeup: 233.5M views

Key influencers: @blonde.girlyy/ @mimiermakeup/ @yodelinghaley 

 
 

The Cosmetics IC Take

TikTok continues to prove to be a vital indicator of the motivations of Gen Z, and our latest Trend Book, Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US is enriched with the latest TikTok data (provided by our partner, Spate), which feeds our prospective research and trend analysis. In it, we explore the latest consumer shifts and how these are impacting makeup - including the evolution of subversive messaging, as consumers embrace increasingly unconventional - and unhinged - aesthetics.

Contact us today for more information on Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US.

The Female Gaze: Radically Redefining Korean Femininity

Self-expression, equality, and independence: these are the prominent demands of young Korean women, who, despite continued obstruction, are pushing against established narratives to rewrite the rules of femininity. 

 

Photo credit - Oddtype via Instagram

 

Our latest What’s Up Korea report delves into what has become one of the biggest social-cultural shifts in Korea - the rise of feminism and the emergence of new aesthetic codes. With 64% of Korean women in their 20s supporting feminism, this is an issue that is already influencing and shaping K-beauty trends, giving rise to gender-neutral, masculine, and rebellious looks.  

Read on to discover key highlights from The Female Gaze - one of five key territories identified in our full What’s Up Korea report - as femininity is radically redefined by the next generation.

1. 4B BEAUTY

South Korea has had a recent history of bold feminist action, from the call to “free the corset” in the late 2010s to today’s radical “4B” movement. The formation of 4B marks an ideological shift as young Korean women mobilize to shake up societal expectations. The four "B’s" are based on the following four principles: Bihon (no to heterosexual marriage), Bichulsan (no to childbirth), Biyeonae  (no to dating), and Bisekseu (no to heterosexual sexual relationships). 

This radical new thinking bleeds into beauty, fuelling  #utilitycore and #militarycore trends on social media, as women absorb traditionally masculine codes into their beauty sphere and K-pop idols proudly go makeup-free. At Seoul Fashion Week, highly functional and gorpcore-esque, clothing came in a muted, military palette that was echoed in the minimalist, colorless and barefaced makeup looks, spotted at Ajobyajo and BLR.


2. GRUNGE GODDESS

Breaking the rules of traditional makeup, the emergence of alternative looks is closely aligned with the rise of feminism. We are tracking a growing trend for glossy lids, hand-drawn freckles (+33.7% YoY increase in Naver searches - Spate NY Tool - Oct 2022 to Nov 2023 vs Oct 2021 to Nov 2022), dark under eyes, teeth gems, bleached eyebrows and piercings. At Fashion Week, the aesthetic was elevated at Vegan Tiger, where models sported exaggerated freckles and glossy lids, while at HEEYONGHeE, the only obvious sign of makeup was a dark purple undereye. Here, hair was almost greasy, with loose strands falling all over the face for a messy, don’t care look.


3. WARRIOR GLAM

Coming out fighting, young women are going to war with the patriarchy. South Korean women are being shown in a new, empowering light - from the success of the new feminist thriller Green Night (starring Fan Bingbing) to the bold feminist lyrics in the debut single of girl group Nugu. Against this backdrop, fashion and beauty are becoming key weapons to articulate women’s dissatisfaction with outdated ideologies. At Fashion Week, Holy Number 7 took inspiration from the boxing gym, with models sporting sparring gloves and head protectors as accessories. In beauty, a more sophisticated coolness emerges, far from the romantic and girly aesthetic that defines mainstream Korean tastes. New brands are inspiring consumers to embrace their individuality, such as the vegan-certified Oddtype, which proposes an embracing of individuality, and beauty that cannot be defined by one type. This brings a fresh perspective to the Korean beauty space, that breaks away from cliches. 

THE COSMETICS IC TAKE

Shifting gender politics in Korea will have global implications for the beauty industry, as young Korean women move away from conventional beauty tropes to embrace more radical and expressive looks. This departure will have a huge impact on cosmetics innovation, changing the direction of the Hallyu beauty wave as brands must adapt to stay relevant to politically engaged and empowered consumers.

To get your copy of the full What’s Up Korea report, to arrange a personalised Seoul Inspiration Tour, or for a specialist Seoul Retail Report, contact us today.

TIKTOK: OCTOBER TREND INSPIRATION

Source : @itsbeautybybrit / @hhheathermichelle / @sofiarichiegrainge

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover which autumnal food is inspiring the latest viral makeup trend and the lip look championed by TikTok’s newest super-influencer, Sofia Richie.

  1. BETTY BOOP MAKEUP

The Betty Boop makeup trend has taken TikTok by storm, with the hashtag #bettyboopmakeup amassing an impressive 305.2 million views. This captivating challenge encourages users to transform their appearance to resemble the animated icon, Betty Boop. From the bold red lips to the signature hairstyle, participants showcase their creativity in recreating the vintage look of this legendary character. The meticulous attention to detail extends to the eyebrows, as users artfully shape and style them to mirror Betty's high, rounded arc.

Notably, views experienced a significant surge in October, suggesting a correlation with preparations for Halloween. This trend underscores the TikTok community's creativity and responsiveness, seizing the opportunity to metamorphose into one of pop culture's most iconic figures.    

Key Influencers: @itsbeautybybrit / @madddnot

Rising Hashtag:  #bettyboopmakeup 305.2M views

2. PUMPKIN SPICE MAKEUP

Pumpkin spice flavours have become synonymous with autumn,  capturing the warm essence of the season. And as food narratives continue to cascade into beauty, unsurprisingly TikTokkers have now turned the coffee shop favourite into a viral beauty trend.  

Pumpkin Spice Makeup is characterised by a monochromatic bronzed look, while Pumpkin Spice Latte Makeup is distinguished by warmer honey tones with shades of orange and cinnamon. 

What makes these trends particularly attractive is their ease of replication. Monochromatic brown tones create a coherent and warm aesthetic, underscoring that an abundance of colours isn't always necessary. Simplicity and warmth are the keys to an elegant and timeless autumn look.

Key Influencers: @hhheathermichelle / @giofilmedthis

Rising Hashtags: #pumpkinspicelattemakeup: 5.9M views / #pumpkinspicemakeup: 25.1M views / #pumpkinmakeup: 69.8M views

CONCEALER LIPS 

The influencer Sofia Richie (@sophiarichiegrainge – 3.4M followers on Tiktok) recently sparked a new craze for #concealerlips (65.9M views) when she ditched vampy autumnal hues for ombré nudes.

In her viral TikTok tutorial, Richie used a combination of YSL's Candy Glaze in shades 14 (Scenic Brown) and 15 (Showcasing Nude), applying the tones in a tapping motion to the lips. She then placed a dab of concealer in the centre, creating a delicate ombré finish.  

Once popular in the early 2000s, concealer lips have faded from the makeup scene with the rise of barely-there nudes, but the recent revival (although receiving mixed reactions) can be linked to the rise of Latte and Pumpkin Spice makeup looks.

Key Influencers: @sofiarichiegrainge/ @kellystrackofficial

Rising Hashtag: #concealerlips: 66.3M views

The CIC Take:

Latte Makeup continues to exert influence, as the trend moves in a new direction dictated by the season. The popularity of the look is strongly linked to the universal appeal of brown tones and the ease of recreation - signalling a preference for simplified routines.

Inspiration Tour: Paris Retail Snapshot

Source: Sephora Champs Elysées - Photo: Cosmetics IC

The CIC team opens the address book on our home city, Paris, revealing our top three destinations for beauty inspiration - from a reinvigorated flagship to a cult new favourite.  

Read on to discover 3 of the Cosmetics IC Paris retail highlights:


Mind Oasis by Rituals

33 Avenue des Champs-Élysées

www.rituals.com

Source: Rituals Champs Elysées - Image: Cosmetics IC

ID Sheet

With its warm and welcoming atmosphere, the Mind Oasis spa from Rituals offers a unique experience dedicated to mental relaxation and well-being. Taking a holistic approach aimed at soothing both the body and the mind, the spa offers two distinct experiences: Mental Relaxation and Hydromassage. The space comprises a 250-square-meter Rituals boutique on the ground floor and a 300-square-meter spa on the upper floor, featuring six Mental Relaxation cabins and nine Hydromassage beds.

Inspiration Seeds

This immersive well-being space responds to contemporary aspirations for unique wellness experiences. Appealing to time-pressured consumers, the spa offers relatively short services that can be undertaken during a lunch break or between appointments - the Mental Relaxation treatment lasts for 30 minutes, while a Hydromassage session takes just 20 minutes. Involving the latest technologies, including 4D sound stimulations, haptic vibrations and LED lights, treatments are designed to relieve tension and reinvigorate the body.



Sephora

72 Av. des Champs-Élysées

www.sephora.fr

Source: Sephora Champs Elysées - Image: Cosmetics IC

ID Sheet

The iconic Sephora flagship on the Champs-Élysées (originally opened in 1996) recently reopened after a major renovation. Spanning 1,200 square meters, the new store design takes its inspiration from Parisian architecture - it features a 90-meter central aisle with stone paving and decorative details inspired by 19th century ironwork. The store comprises different thematic spaces covering fragrance, skincare, makeup, haircare, and beauty services, bringing together a lively and in-depth mix of over 300 luxury brands and cult labels. 

Inspiration Seeds

Despite the grand renovation and impressive interior that gives the store a very clearly defined sense of place, what really marks this store out is the commitment to service. Haircare, skincare and brow maintenance are all covered, while a VIP lounge provides exclusive services to top-tier clients, including massages and makeup sessions. Enhancing the experience are animations like "Hot on Social Media" and "Fragrance Discovery" while at the back, an engraving workshop allows customers to personalize their fragrance bottles. The reopening of the store coincides with the build-up to the busy Holiday period, and re-establishes Sephora as Paris’s foremost beauty destination just in time for the Olympics. 




Source: La French Beauty - Image: Cosmetics IC

ID Sheet

Founded by Sébastien Guerra, La French Beauty is a concept store that features a meticulously curated edit of 38 independent French cosmetic brands (known as “roommates”) that share a commitment to responsible practices. Described by Guerra as a "friendly, joyful, and passionate co-living space," La French Beauty captures France’s creative sensibility and commitment to craft. Categories covered include skincare, makeup, haircare, fragrance, supplement and babycare.

Inspiration Seeds

The store’s mix of cult and indie French brands makes it one of the best places in the city to source new product inspiration. Stocking well-known names such as All Tigers, Absolution, Huages (specializing in CBD), Madame la Présidente, Kadalys, Kerzon, and those catering to children and babies like Ouate and Poupon, it offers a diverse product range. Guerra hosts weekly in-store activities and events, including discussions, product trials, and meetings with brand founders, cultivating a lively and engaged community of French beauty fans.


The CIC Take

Paris has one of the most diverse beauty retail scenes, covering everything from legacy luxury brands to emerging independents, that proudly promote their “Made in France” credentials.

Our uniquely curated Inspiration Tours offer a comprehensive exploration of Paris and the richness of French craftsmanship - contact us today for your guide.     

FLEXCARE: Skincare adapts to a transient world

We are living in a world in a constant state of flux and our latest trend report, Transformative Beauty: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, encourages brands to lean into the desire for change.

Photo Credit: Utu

The growing influence of nomadic lifestyles and surge in travel feed into the transformative narrative, as major lifestyle shifts present new opportunities for brands. FLEXCARE is one of six universes presented in our report as defining the next phase of skincare and wellness. In this perspective territory, we explore how the impulse to travel and the influx of untethered lifestyles must be met with multitasking products that fit with, and adapt to, transient needs. Below is a snapshot from the FLEXCARE universe, offering an insight into two major new drivers: the desire for cooling sensations in the context of rising temperatures and the need to redefine practicality for the new era of on-the-go lifestyles.

1- COOLBOMING: Resort sensoriality

As society adapts to rising temperatures, keeping cool is a new imperative, leading to innovation in fabrics and formulations that offer relief from the heat. Clothing brand LifeLabs has developed CoolLife technology - a polyethylene fabric that regulates body heat to cool the wearer’s temperature 3°F more effectively than comparable fabrics. While in beauty, new textures and tools that deliver refreshing effects are replicating the same cooling sensations. 

  • The Chasin’ Rabbits Ice-Cold Soothing Serum Roller (May 2023) provides pore-tightening and cooling in one gesture. The surgical steel roller applicator glides over the skin to deliver an instant cooling sensation.

  • The After Sun Gel (April 2023) from cult US suncare brand Vacation is a modern take on nostalgic aloe vera aftersun products but with a refreshing non-sticky, alcohol-free formula infused with cucumber, and Bisabolol. The gel is cool-to-touch, bringing soothing relief to sun-exposed skin.

2- TRANSIENT ADAPTIVE: Reinventing practicality

Since the pandemic, increasing numbers of young people have been drawn to a nomadic lifestyle, while at the same time people are spending more time outdoors (linked to the mental health benefits of nature and the travel boom). These lifestyle shifts, combined with rising sustainability concerns and the global financial crisis, are driving the market for #summerskincare (230M TikTok views) miniatures and multiuse products adapted to on-the-go and outdoor lifestyles. 

  • New brand Utu developed the Tinted Sunscreen Stick Broad Spectrum SPF50 (May 2023) specifically for people with a love for the outdoors - the stick is marketed as "the perfect companion for every adventure under the sun".

  • New products are designed to combat the effects of humidity on the skin. Florence by Mills’ Mind Over Matte-R Oil Blotting Stick (July 2023) is an oil blotting stick, which blurs and minimizes shine for a visibly smooth, matte appearance. While the First Aid Beauty Anti-Chafe Stick (April 2023) addresses the issue of skin chafing by creating a sweat-resistant shield that lasts for 10,000 steps. 

THE CIC TAKE

With half of US consumers intending to travel more in 2023 than they did last year (Source: Forbes Advisor Survey, August 2023), the nomadic lifestyle shift will continue to grow demand for  skincare products that are easy-to-use and portable, while also driving the need for intelligent suncare and quick fixes that reinvent practicality for the nomadic age.


The full report, Transformative Beauty: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, is available right now - please contact the team today for more information. 

(Image: courtesy Utu)

TIKTOK: September Trend Inspiration

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover the next food-inspired beauty trend and the controversial music video that is inspiring TikTokkers to experiment with provocative beauty looks. 


1. STRAWBERRY MAKEUP by Hailey Bieber 🍓💋

Naming skin trends after food has become a trend in itself, and despite some backlash, TikTokkers continue to latch on to these buzzy terms. From latte makeup to potato makeup, food-related shades are capturing the imagination. 

In August, strawberry makeup went viral, thanks to Hailey Bieber uploading a photo of herself with a dewy, fresh look, signed off with the emojis: 🍓💋. In doing so, she inadvertently created this summer’s signature beauty trend, #strawberrymakeup. Perhaps not coincidentally, Bieber timed her strawberry post with the launch of a new lip treatment flavour by her brand Rhode; Strawberry Glaze. 

The strawberry makeup look is defined by a quick, fresh summer makeup that continues Bieber’s signature style of a glowy, rosy, light complexion created using creamy products. The T-zone is illuminated, while the contour is accentuated by a darker bronzer. The key element is "false freckles", which have been a constant feature over the summer. Finally, the lip contour is worked with a lip pencil and then a gloss to finish.

Key Influencers: @andrea_subotic/ @jamescharles / @glowwithnorhane

Rising Hashtags: #strawberrymakeup – 308.6M views / #strawberrygirl – 60.4M views (September 14, 2023)

Spate Data: TikTok searches for Strawberry Makeup +4386,5% YoY (September 11, 2023)

2. CONTROVERSY by Doja Cat🩸🥀

Doja Cat has never been shy of courting controversy and her latest song, “Paint the Town Red”, is her most provocative creation yet. The TikTok-famous dance anthem flirts with themes of satanic worship, feeding the cultural appetite for transgressive content. In the music video, she is seen embracing the grim reaper, throwing raw meat, wearing pentagrams and devil horns. 

Doja Cat’s creative subversions have a loyal following on social media, triggering copycat makeup looks inspired by the themes explored in her controversial content. Adjacent looks play with the aesthetic codes of Paint the Town Red: new romantic, vampiric and gothic gestures,  blood red lips outlined with a darker pencil, black and red graphic eyes, fake blood artistry and mis-applied mascara. 

Key Influencers: @tyra.mua/@makeup.lois/ @k.figaszewska/ @jeamyblessed/ @anemariemua/ @sophiasinot

Rising Hashtags:  #dojacat – 28.3B views/  #demonsdojacat – 3.4M views/ #painttownred – 6.9M views/ I paint the town red makeup – 18M views (September 14, 2023)

3. WRINKLE ART - taking it back to 2018 -🌪️

The latest creative beauty hack doing the rounds on TikTok was spurred by @nettart (27.7K followers on Tiktok), who created the look that she calls, "metallic chic". To achieve a wrinkle-effect, the model is asked to squeeze their eyes shut tightly, and then metallic pigment is worked over the folds of the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Once the eyes are open a stencil-like effect is created from the negative space of the folds.

Key Influencers: @catquinn / @josiezhou1028/ @meicrosoft/ @f.bermann/ @arsonblue/ @julias_makeup_palette

Rising Hashtag: #wrinklemakeup – 97.8K views (September 14, 2023

The CIC Take

The popularity of Doja Cat’s often shocking social media content confirms the shift towards transgressive beauty influences. Brands should take confidence in the consumer appetite for edgy, alternative looks and develop products that fuel the desire for subversive experiences: such as sticky, visceral textures, gore embellishments, and prosthetics that dramatically alter the features.

TIKTOK: SUMMER Trend Inspiration

Sources: @makeupbysamathaharvey - @millieleer - @luvyurselfboo

Every month the CIC team takes the pulse of social media to unearth the strongest beauty signals. This Summer, it was impossible to avoid the impact of Barbie and the dominance of one colour - pink, but as ever, TikTokers made the trend their own with interesting subversions. Brown was another key colour, as #LatteMakeup went viral and users recreated the effects of summery, bronzed skin in monochrome caramel tones.

The state of the economy is never far from consumers’ minds, and frugal themes are being reflected in beauty in increasingly interesting ways. Last month, users creatively demonstrated the multifunctionality of a single product, prompting followers to strip back their makeup kits to the bare essentials.

Overall, summer was defined by ingenuity and creativity, as TikTokkers demonstrated makeup’s transformative power. Read on to discover the top three trends for Summer 2023:

  1. ANTI-BARBIE

With the release of the movie Barbie, directed by Greta Gerwig, makeup looks inspired by the iconic doll have multiplied (#barbiemakeup: +183K Instagram posts/ 833.6M TikTok views). Pink (specifically Pantone 212) and blue dominate, while eye looks are a focus, inspired by the "double cut crease" or "siren eyes" trend. In the most commercial expression of the trend, influencers are recreating classic Barbie eyes to a soundtrack of Aqua’s infamous Barbie Girl (1997) tune.

Key Influencers: @makeupbysamanthaharvey / @franduartmakeup / @isabelleikpeme 

Inevitably there has been a creative backlash as people denounce the race to perfection (and the proximity to plastic surgery). Influences from drag queen culture (such as tyra.mua's @trixiemattel-inspired look) to the world of Tim Burton result in more pronounced and exaggerated looks that distort the ultra-perfect aesthetic. Influencers are also juxtaposing the saccharine pink of Barbie with the darker themes of the movie Oppenheimer  (#barbenheimer 501.5M TikTok views) to create contrasting pink-black looks. 

However, where this trend becomes really interesting is when TikTokers confront the pressure to be perfect by using makeup to depict the cosmetic procedures it takes to be Barbie beautiful. And finally, the trend comes back to a strong message of self-acceptance, as users reverse the heavily contoured, pink-hued look to reveal their natural beauty. Ultimately, the Anti-Barbie trend is a message of hope and acceptance. By rejecting the pressure to be perfect, people are encouraged to embrace and celebrate their authentic appearance.

2. LATTE MAKEUP 

Propelled by Hailey Bieber’s transition from Clean Girl to bronzed goddess, this trend is growing by the day. Latte makeup consists mainly of warm, brown hues (the predominant tones are caramel and coffee) for the eyes and face, while lips are nude or glossy. Cheeks are further sculpted with bronzer to create a radiant glow.  The surge is confirmed by Spate which shows that TikTok searches for Latte Makeup are at 33.7M, while views of the hashtag  #lattemakeup are at 129.9M. One of the main appeals of this trend, and pivitol to its virility on social media, is its inclusive nature - the warm, brown palette suits a range of skin tones and types, unlike Vanilla Girl or Clean Girl which skews towards Eurocentric ideals. 

Diverting from the wholesome glow of Latte Makeup, #EspressoMakeup (7.5M views) is being dubbed as the trend’s “grungier sister” on social media. This take involves deeper and darker tones to create a more intense and sultry look that focuses on the eyes. A demi-matte complexion is blushed with bronzing pearls, while the eyes are outlined in dark brown pencil and coloured with chocolate-hued shadow which is smudged to create an intense smoky effect. 

Key Influencers: @millieleer / @alissajanay / @daniellestrada / @chiaraadelgrosso / @stellafragkoulaki / @jacinta_spencer

Rising Hashtags: #lattemakeuplook 22.7M views / #bronzymakeup 50.9M views / #glowymakeup 1.1B views / #smokeyeye 967M views

3. “I ONLY WEAR…”

This recurring trend peaks at a time when cost-consciousness is at the forefront of consumers’ minds. It involves the frequent and multifunctional use of one favoured product, but can be applied to any product in the makeup kit, from concealer to lipstick.

Concealer: Applied in quantity, it ultimately replaces a foundation. It is applied to targeted areas of the face and blended, or used as contour.

Key Influencers: @teaspahiu / @froartistry / @luvyurselfboo

Rising Hashtags: #ionlywearconcealer 20.7M views / #fullcoverageconcealer 105.1M views / #onlyconcealermakeup 3.5M views

Lipstick: Here the idea is to demonstrate the possibility of the multifunctionality of a lipstick; it can be used as blush, eyeshadow or contouring stick, depending on its colour.

Key Influencers: @mimiermakeupusa/ @lenkalul/ @runscay

Lip Stain: Lip ink is applied generously to the lips, cheeks, eye area, left to dry and gently removed. The stain of colour lasts for several hours (or even days). TikTokkers are demonstrating the multifunctionality of the product, and showing how routines can be reduced down to one core product. 

Key Influencers: @suzi_sina / @cicihaskill / @gillianxgrace

THE CIC TAKE

With the release of Greta Gerwig’s blockbuster, we have finally reached peak #Barbiecore. While pink has proliferated, it has been interesting to see how a large quota of TikTokkers have used the moment to reassert messages of self-acceptance and individuality. The backlash again reaffirms how Gen Z likes to cast a critical creative eye on mainstream trends and subvert expectations. Success awaits brands that can leverage this desire for disruption.

Our latest Makeup Inspiration from the USA trend book explores the transformative power of makeup and takes a deep dive into the social shifts shaping the next phase of beauty. Contact us today for more information on how to get hold of your copy.

The figures and data in this article are dated July 2023.

INSPIRATION TOUR: SEOUL RETAIL SNAPSHOT

This month, CIC Chief Inspirations Officer Leila Rochet has been shopping and gallery hopping in Seoul, traversing the K-beauty capital to source the latest cult products, cutting-edge innovations and creative inspirations to feed the agency’s trend division.

When it comes to Beauty it’s hard to beat South Korea for innovation - from ground-breaking formulations, game-changing trend directions and awe-inspiring retail concepts. And retail has never been so dynamic, propelled by local brands that play with the codes of K-style.

Read on to discover 3 of Leila’s Seoul retail highlights:

1. ADER ERROR

518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, the space is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. Ader is also phygital retailing pioneer - customers can shop and try on goods virtually via Zepeto, take an online VR tour, or interact with in-store digital artworks and interfaces.

Inspiration Seeds: The store’s emphasis on experience encourages customers to truly discover, and engage with, the products. The giant fountain at the centre of the store is a highlight, but in the Ader world nothing is quite as it seems: a changing room can also double as a noraebang singing room, fixtures and fittings move on demand. 

2. WIGGLE WIGGLE.ZIP

1 Eonju-ro 168-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This joyful multilevel concept store truly lives up to the lifestyle brand’s motto of, “let's make the obvious fun”. And so, over four floors, you will discover a riot of super-colourful homewares, accessories, pet products, toiletries and trinkets featuring the brand’s signature flower or bear motif. 

Inspiration Seeds: A favourite with K-Pop icons including BLACKPINK’s Jennie, Wiggle Wiggle.Zip is unapologetically playful. The store features a number of key interactive areas that are primed for Instagram photos and TikTok videos, where shoppers can pose with props against colourful backdrops, hang around in ‘upside down’ rooms or try out toiletries in a section styled like a cutesy home bathroom. 


3. THE PERFUME CLUB BY SOOHYANG

28 Seongsui-ro 7-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul

Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This unique perfume gallery plays to rising connoisseurship by presenting a library of scents. Situated in a former perfume factory, the under-the-radar retail space and workshop is purposefully moody and mysterious, creating a sophisticated environment in which to discover luxury scents by Soohyang. 

Inspiration Seeds: This hidden gem in the upcoming neighbourhood of Seongsu is dedicated to the discovery of new scents. Presented as a social space where people can come together over a common interest in scent, it is a unique space that perfectly illustrates Seoulista’s rising interest in perfumes.

The CIC Take:

Our bespoke Inspiration Tours are uniquely tailored guides to key cities covering retail, galleries, museums, architectural hot spots, and the coolest places to eat and drink. Our partners, Latitude37, are our boots-on-the-ground in Seoul, and as local retail experts - we work closely with the Latitude team to ensure our guides are packed with the latest hotspots and openings.

Following our recent research trip, we can also compile a detailed Retail Report where we will explore the latest openings, consumer shifts and social influences impacting Seoul’s dynamic retail scene.

If you are interested in an Inspiration Tour of Seoul (or any other Beauty city) or a Retail Report please drop us a line today to discuss your needs!

All pictures are from our Agency and copyright protected. Please do not share without prior approval.

TIKTOK: How Current Affairs, TV & CINEMA Shape Beauty Trends

Sources: @daniellemarcan - @chicwithkels - @thisartperson

TikTok analysis allows us to take the pulse of the Beauty consumer, and track their current priorities and motivations, in real-time. This month, current affairs and key moments from trending TV series and just-released movies are rapidly repurposed and translated into makeup moments. 

Epiphenomena and "fait divers" play a crucial role in shaping TikTok beauty trends. This is when unexpected and seemingly unrelated events capture public attention and inspire creative interpretations within the beauty community.

Even events that on the surface appear wholly unrelated to beauty become unique storytelling opportunities for makeup enthusiasts. In recent weeks, the Titan submarine tragedy sparked interest in #titanic makeup tutorials as the contemporary incident brushed up against historical tragedy and filmic icon.

TikTok's fast-paced and viral nature is the perfect conductor for amplifying the influence of epiphenomena, transforming news stories and pop culture events into catalysts for innovative and engaging beauty trends that capture the collective imagination.

 

1. Mermaidcore

Mermaidcore rises once again, resurfacing off the back of the release of the hit film Ariel, starring Halle Bailey. Mermaids are an enduring reference point for fantasy femininity - at New York Fashion Week, Bach Mai showed a siren-inspired collection, complete with fishtail silhouettes, shimmering fabrics and iridescent makeup. Megan Thee Stallion also made her triumphant return to the red carpet in a mermaidesque gown made by the designer.

TikTokkers are taking inspiration from the mythical sea creature to create luminous and enchanting makeup looks that are defined by the use of light chromatic palettes in shades of blue and off-white. Looks are strongly inspired by the #angelicmakeup trend (64.8M views), where the complexion is fresh and light, and amplified by highlighter and pink blush. Eyes are innocent and soft, with a preference for light shades such as white or sky blue in iridescent or chrome, and the ethereal look is finished off with cultured pearls to the face. Hair is either worn loose and wavy or slicked back with products for a just-out-of-the-water #wethairlook (104.3M views).

Rising Hashtags:

#mermaidaesthetic: 128.8M views / #mermaidcore: 318.1M views / #glittereyeshadow: 1.1B views / #chromemakeup: 82.5M views / #sirenmakeuplook: 4.1M views

Key Influencers:

@thisartperson / @evamillersha

2. Titanic Comeback

The recent tragedy of Titan, the submersible that imploded during its descent into the North Atlantic Ocean on an expedition to view the wreck of the Titanic, captured global attention. For over a week, the search and rescue mission dominated the news cycle.

TikTok’s unique algorithm and its role as Gen Z’s preferred search engine means that new stories often, organically, become trending topics on the platform. As users are flooded with associated hashtags that prompt discovery, a simple news story can become the genesis of myriad trends.

In this context, the all-pervading Titan story led consumers to rediscover the story of the original Titanic, pushing James Cameron’s 1997 movie back up the Netflix rankings. Makeup influencers have been recreating the makeup look of the film’s leading character, Rose (played by Kate Winslet), which is typified by a creamy complexion, soft pink blush, taupe eye shadow and matte red lips. Full brows and auburn ringlets complete the look.

Rising Hashtags:

#titanicmakeup: 1.4M views / #titaniccosplay: 1.1M views / #rosedawson: 4M views

Key Influencers:

@geenahunt / @msmaverickmuse / @yanabelyaeva_

 3. The Idol Look

The HBO series The Idol proves that controversy is the perfect catalyst for creativity. Starring Lily-Rose Depp and The Weekend, the sexually-charged series follows the relationship between a failing pop singer and an enigmatic club owner/cult leader.  While the show’s confrontational sex scenes have hit the headlines, it has also captured the imagination of Gen Z thanks to its sleazy-glam aesthetic that leans into Euphoria territory. 

Influencers are recreating two key looks of Jocelyn (played by Depp) - her on-stage look (glitter, graphic-lined eyes inspired by Y2K Britney and Christina Aguilera) and her everyday look (sultry, matte lips, smokey eyes, natural skin).


Rising Hashtags:

#lilyrosedeppmakeup: 36.2M views / #theidolemakeup: 6.9M views / #lilyrosedeep: 3.6B views

Key Influencers:

@kristinaamcnabb / @daniellemarcan / @romaneinnc

The CIC Take

Gen Z, being avid consumers of entertainment media, eagerly embrace the beauty looks and styles portrayed by their favorite characters. Iconic on-screen aesthetics find their way onto TikTok, where users enthusiastically recreate and adapt them to their own personal style.

The influence of news, streaming series and cinema on beauty trends reflects the power of storytelling and visual media in shaping cultural norms and inspiring creativity among younger generations.

 

MakeUp in Paris 2023 - Key Innovations From The Show

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This year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, held at the Carrousel du Louvre on June 14 and 15 2023, provided a typically insightful two days. Exhibitors, spanning the global colour cosmetics sector, showed formulations and packaging that overall emphasised sustainability and technological innovation, promising to propel Beauty into a far more responsible and progressive space. 

Thank you to everyone who stopped by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation booth - whether it was introducing you to the work of the agency or catching up with existing clients and old friends - it was an absolute pleasure. Inbetween hosting our Inspiration Bar we took the opportunity to scout the show for the latest innovations and soak up inspiration from the lively conference schedule. 

From eco-lipstick cases to next-gen bio-blenders and formulas which champion hybridisation and sensoriality read on to discover the agency’s key highlights and takeaways from this year’s event.


Innovation Winners

Day #1 kicked off with the Innovation and Trend (IT) Awards - where a jury of 10 industry professionals honoured the most innovative products and tools being showcased at the event. Here are this year’s winners:

Ticking boxes on sustainability, adaptability and on-the-go functionality, the Multi-Intensity Brush from Texen allows users to create complete makeup looks with a single brush. A rotating mechanism allows users to adjust the length and density of the tuft to accommodate a number of different applications. The brush’s tuft, handle and ferrule can also be customised in terms of shape and material, and the product can also be developed for eyes and lips.

Formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients and exclusively certified natural cosmos raw materials, this injectable powder marries ultra-sensoriality with sustainability. The powders have been developed without the use of microplastics, talc, silicones and my synthetic film-forming agents. The result is a high-touch, high-performance creamy texture that delivers a high-impact shine.

Within the same category, Aircos (Anjac Health & Beauty Group) received a special commendation for their Hypnotic Very Noir compact eyeshadow. Featuring a creamy-powdery texture and an intense, golden-black metallic effect, the shadow.

This highly sensorial blush doubles down on delivering skincare benefits, thanks to the infusion of watermelon pulp and seed oil. Creamy and ultra-blendable, the blush has a delicate watermelon fragrance. The innovative case, designed by Belotti, also features floating pigments and active ingredients inside the base, resembling watermelon seeds. A great example of how to create a playful product packed with functionality. 

Receiving a special mention for technical innovation, Chromavis Fareva for Maya, features a new technology enabling multi-colour heat-cast visuals with high relief and definition down to 1 centimetre. It was presented in a cast texture formulated with 94% natural ingredients, extra slippery, creamy and enveloping, contrasting with the vibrant, deep colours and 3D relief.

The environmental impact of this product is two-fold - the case is 100% aluminum (including the cap and shell) while the refillable mechanism adds a further facet of sustainability. The case itself can be customised with a range of finishes. 

The CIC Take

If you dropped by our booth during the show and would like to continue the conversation, drop us a line today to discuss how we can bring our Inspiration Bar directly to you, stocked with products to your specification!

The next edition of MakeUp in Paris will be held on May 29-30 2024

Inspiration from the US: 3 SKINCARE TRENDS

Photo: Unsplash Dynamic Wang

During this period of perma-crisis, the rules of skincare are being rewritten as consumers navigate their way through compound stresses. In this context, darkness becomes a safe space, new semantics enter the skincare conversation and Gen Z continues to reinvent the very definition of self-perfection. Comfort and care are key drivers, but consumers are forging unexpected pathways to their new skincare goals.

In our latest deep-dive report, Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, the agency proposes 6 territories for innovation, drawing on the latest consumer shifts, social media trends, data analysis and product launches.

Below, is a snapshot of three core trends from the full 50-page report, which is available to order today.

1- Future Pioneers: Precious Synthetics

In pursuit of hyper-specific solutions, consumers are leaning even deeper into science and technology - hitching their skincare goals to the latest world-changing innovations. Science fascinates a new generation of consumers who are more engaged in scientific content than ever, with S.T.E.M. (Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics) careers now the #1 attraction for students in the US. Living through the pandemic and witnessing first-hand how science can directly improve society, drives the desire to realise science’s potential for positive change.

  • Precious Synthetics

Safe synthetics pose valuable solutions for two key consumer demands - potent efficacy and sustainable sourcing. Brands have an opportunity to change the narrative around chemicals by clarifying ingredient benefits and stepping up the sustainability story. The educational approach of brands such as  Paula’s Choice, The Ordinary and The Inkey List, pivots on their ingredient-first positionings. Their collective successes positively impact the perception of safe chemicals.

The benefits of the 6 pro-collagen peptides that power Paula’s Choice’s Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster (February 2023) are clearly explained on the product packaging. The formulation harnesses newly researched peptide technology to target key proteins in the skin’s extracellular matrix. These signal proteins rebuild, strengthen and firm the skin at a deeper level with six pro-collagen peptides. Herbivore Botanicals has introduced 5% THD vitamin C into its ingredient list - an ultra-stable ingredient that improves the look of dark circles. It is the star ingredient of the Super Nova 5% THD Vitamin C Brightening Eye Cream (January 2023) which is further powered by antioxidant-rich turmeric and caffeine. 

2 - Level-Up the Derma Story: Barrier Boom

Trust and proven efficiency become central to the derma game, as super-informed consumers seek professional-level products with medicalised claims. Fuelled by the surge in online medical influencers and the desire for proof of extreme efficiency, the skincare narrative is changing. The conversation is ramped-up to dermatologist-level, as once-professional terms, such as the skin biome, enter the lexicon of the everyday skincare consumer.

  • Barrier Boom

The awareness of biome-care has accelerated in the past six months in-line with growing reports of skin sensitivity. Spate figures confirm consumers’ concerns - searches for Barrier Repair are up +8.6% and there is a spike in searches for adjacent ingredients, including Ceramides (+35.6%), Panthenol (+168%) and Peptide Moisturizers (+96.2%).

Ingredients that specifically recruit bacteria to depollute the skin offer the best protection against environmental aggressors, meaning that pre/probiotics have become the norm in new barrier care products. Powered by pre-biotic beta-glucan and post-biotic lactococcus ferment lysate, Bliss’ Mighty Biome Pre/Pro-Biotics + Barrier Aid Deep  Cleansing Balm melts into the skin to dissolve makeup, sunscreen and impurities while also hydrating to restore the skin’s balance. Packed with 5 ceramides and panthenol, the Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream (January 2023) from Dr. Jart+ is a fast-absorbing, cushiony moisturizing cream. Vitamin-derived panthenol increases moisture and reinforces the skin barrier for more water retention.

3- Counterculture: Dark PotencY

In the grip of global unrest, the counter-culture offers an alternative refuge. The darkness conceals the unconventional and becomes an invitation to take a less-traveled path to happiness. Feelings of fear, nihilism and despair lead to controversial expressions of beauty, and a reframing of darkness as a state of comfort and safety. Ugly ingredients and uncanny visuals offer a strangely seductive counterpoint to the overly-sanitized side of skincare.

  • Dark Potency

In the permacrisis era, darkness is not wholly negative - new, optimistic perspectives emerge as consumers find happiness in unexpected places. This is a trend that first began circulating on social media, where #witchtok has clocked over 39.6B views and where iterations of the gothic trend have been propelled by Gen Z. Google searches for Southern Goth Aesthetic are predicted to increase +5.9% over the next 12 months, according to Spate. 

Rituel de Fille embraces the spectrum of goth-adjacent visuals and witchcraft semantics - creating products that viscerally connect with the #witchtok universe. The moisturizing skin mist Thorn Milk (October 2022) takes on a mesmerizing property - appearing like droplets of blood in water. The brand also plays with viscerality - creating unexpected textures and product experiences. No more so than in the pulpy, jelly sensation of Thorn Pulp (October 2022) - a cleansing balm with a uniquely strange texture that feels almost fleshy.


The CIC Take

This manifesto for innovation prepares brands for a future that is rapidly being shaped by driven and demanding consumers who are seeking scientific solutions and unconventional pathways to well-being.

This is an extract of our latest report - Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, is the agency’s latest report.

Contact us today for information on how to get hold of the full 50-page report.

NB: * Source: Spate tool USA- Data from End february 2023 .

Clean Beauty London: Top 5 Innovations

Clean Beauty returned to London for its 2nd edition in April, delivering two days of inspiration and innovation to brands stepping up to meet the growing demand for conscious beauty. 

There’s nothing we enjoy more at CIC than a spot of radical innovation, and Clean Beauty made sure that it was hard to ignore this year’s trailblazing creations. InnoZone, was a new area that helpfully gathered together a selection of 20 of the industry’s latest developments in the fields of natural and renewable raw materials, eco-design, and green chemistry.

Here are the CIC Top 5 innovations from this year’s event: 

1- Tint Me Up by Artcosmetics (IT)

The water-activated Tint Me Up skin-perfecting tablets transform into a soft, coloured complexion mousse on contact. The tablets contain over 80% natural ingredients and come in recyclable and refillable paper packaging. 

2- REGENIGHT™ by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (FR)

Also catching our eye was REGENIGHT™ -a breakthrough active ingredient that taps the burgeoning beauty sleep category. Incorporating upcycled extracts from Australian tea tree oil, the formula reduces skin fatigue by stimulating the melatonin pathway to aid recovery and regeneration. 

3- SPF15 Face Cream by Icc SRL (IT)

In the natural and renewable materials section, Icc SRL showcased an SPF15 face cream that contains renewable alternatives to the usual chemical-based ingredients, including watercress, Lepidum Sativum and almond oil. 

4- Waterproof Clean Mascara by ITIT Cosmetics (IT)

Containing calendula oil from plants grown at a vertical farm, and recycled wild apple seed oil (a byproduct from the food industry), this breakthrough formula encapsulates two key pillars of Clean Beauty - waste reappropriation and sustainable sourcing.  Every component of the packaging is made with recycled and renewable materials, including a biobasedbrush derived from casto plants

5- In & Out Beauty Capsules Collection by Tecnocosmesi S.P.A (IT)

Representing the burgeoning nutricosmetics sector, these lipo-soluble and vegan capsules promise to boost the beautification benefits of cosmetics by providing important functional nutrients to enhance the skin from within. 


The CIC Take

Waterless and single-dose formats stood out amongst the most promising innovations at this year’s show, and along with renewable raw ingredients, these concepts are reshaping the Clean Beauty sector into a waste-free, plastic-free space.

Our latest What’s Up and Inspiration books provide a clear outlook on the current trends in sustainable beauty - contact us today for your copy.

Or why not meet us at MakeUp in Paris? On June 14 & 15, the CIC team will be at Carrousel du Louvre (Booth E18) offering a talk-through of our latest insight reports, alongside hosting a showcase of the hottest new product innovations, sourced from all over the globe. Click here for more info.

Genderful Beauty: Makeup for men hits the mainstream

Source: Pleasing x Marco Ribeiro

Thanks to an influx of TikTok creators, the male makeup category is finally having its moment. Fuelled by the boom in #GRWM (Get Ready With Me) videos, men are more comfortably - and confidently - experimenting with colour cosmetics. In a short period of time, the trend for male makeup has shifted from the red carpet to the shelves of High Street retailers. 

Our agency’s latest US Makeup Inspiration book: Beauty’s New Manifesto, explores this new arc of masculine beauty, defined not by an aesthetic ambiguity but by an embracing of all male archetypes. 

1- Do you want to #GRWM (Get Ready With Me)?

With 96.4B views on TikTok, the #GRWM hashtag has become one of the most popular in the beauty sphere, as creators share their multistep makeup routines with their followers. Its popularity among male users and content creators has accelerated since the pandemic, propelling the normalisation of men-in-makeup and creating strong consumer demand for male-leaning products and messaging. 

Male makeup brand Stryx has built a strong TikTok following thanks to its #GRWM content, which is often fronted by its founder Jon Shanahan. Stryx pushes the boundaries of male beauty beyond gender fluidity: videos where a moustached Shanahan shows how to apply makeup often perform better than those featuring men without facial hair. This type of content is helping to propel men-in-makeup into a new space of acceptance.

Key hashtags: 

 #GRWM: 96.4B views

#mensmakeup: 363.7 million

#boysmakeup: 22M views

2- A Pleasing Sentiment

In our US Makeup Inspiration book, we highlight the continued influence of Harry Styles’ Pleasing.  The brand continues to drive a powerful and genderful approach with inclusive visuals that show products against all genders, skintones and ages.  Pleasing empowers men to be part of the colour cosmetics conversation.

The brand’s recent collaborations - a makeup range with fashion designer Marco Ribeiro (September 2022) and the Pollinators nail varnish micro-collection (April 2023) - are designed to encourage infinite experimentation through bold colors - whatever your gender. 

Taking a leaf from Pleasing’s playbook, Good Weird is a new genderless Gen Z beauty brand (March 2023) founded by two men and fronted by American model, actor and skateboarder Evan Mock. The brand’s hero product is a bronzer stick that comes in a range of skin-inclusive shades.

3- Mainstreaming Masc Beauty

As the momentum behind male makeup gathers pace, High Street retailers and mass market brands are recognising the growing demand for male-focused products. 

UK retailer Boots is bolstering its male grooming offer with the introduction of UK indie brand, Shakeup Cosmetics. The range on offer will include an undereye concealer, tinted BB moisturiser and lip-plumping gel. While in late 2022 Rimmel London named Olympic athlete Tom Daley as tit’s first-ever global male beauty ambassador. 

The CIC Take

The consumer perception of masculine stereotypes is rapidly evolving thanks to a new era of male beauty icons and the democratization of skincare and beauty, propelled by TikTok. There is an opportunity for brands to be bold and pitch to the growing male market with messages of creativity and freedom of expression. 


For more insight into the metamorphosis of the male beauty category, and others, our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US book is available right now. Contact us today for your copy. 

Enter the ALT ERA

We’re entering a new cultural phase, where trends emerge from the most unexpected sources and where niche references challenge conventional thinking - and aesthetics. Consumers are trying to survive the metacrisis in any way they can - and are being driven toward the less-traveled path to happiness.

Comfort is found in unconventional places and ugly ingredients and uncanny visuals offer a strangely seductive counterpoint to the overly-sanitized side of skincare.

Our latest inspiration book, Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, explores the rise of Counter-Culture. Below is a snapshot of one facet of this territory: Trash Beauty, which proposes how the discarded and rejected are becoming valued commodities.

1- Upstreaming Waste

The perception of waste shifts from a thing of ugliness to a critical ingredient. Searches for Upcycling are experiencing a +4.4% increase YoY while searches for Recyclable are averaging at 534.5K a month (Source: Spate).  The fashion industry leads beauty in this trend, as brands invest in sustainable material alternatives, and forge a new luxury narrative centered on circularity.

  • Sustainable brand Pangaia has developed a denim jacket made from 100% recycled cotton. The jacked is made from NuCycl - a trademarked lyocell fiber that contains a mix of pre-and post-consumer textile waste.

2 - Unlikely Heroes

In skincare, the upcycling of food waste has accelerated in recent years as byproducts from the food and drink industry have found their way into the ingredient listings of luxury products.

  • UK natural skincare brand Haeckels has created a new product range using the coffee bean waste discarded by WatchHouse - a British coffee brand. The Oat Milk Moisturizing Lotion is formulated using coffee beans, avocado seeds and oat milk.

3- Mud, Mud, Mud

As consumers become more comfortable with messy ingredients and textures, dirty wellness experiences are rising as they are onboarded to the mineral-rich benefits of mud. On TikTok, videos of #mudbaths have over 159.2M views.

  • A new UK-based restaurant pop-up, Dish The Dirt, hopes to further destigmatize soil by making it the focus of immersive, multi-sensory dining experiences. The meal is designed to connect diners with food and soil in a sensorial, innovative manner to underscore the importance of soil nutrition and regeneration.

The CIC Take:

It’s an exciting time for Beauty, as we see individual expression take precedence over homogeneity and we see the impact of more avant-garde, confrontational and challenging influences. Brands have an opportunity to be bold here and excite consumers with unusual, waste ingredients and visceral textures that add a new dimension to their storytelling while also upholding sustainable values.



For a more detailed analysis of Trash Beauty, and the 6 X3 other trends impacting skincare, contact us today to find out how to get hold of our report: Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare Inspiration from the US.

Photo credit: Unsplash Amanda Souza

TIKTOK INSPIRATIONAL BEAUTY TRENDS - February 2023

TikTok analysis allows us to take the pulse of the Beauty consumer, and track their current priorities and motivations, in real time. From the latest Beauty hacks to the most meme’d moment from NYFW, February’s trending TikTok content is united by the themes of reinterpretation, rebellion and resourcefulness.

Sources: @elpltt - @jennseren - @molchanovamua


Read on to discover 4 leading Beauty inspirations from February 2023:

1. ANTI-VALENTINE: THE CREATIVE COUNTER-RESPONSE

Rising Hashtags:

#antivalentinesdaymakeup: 3.6M views

As Valentines Day approached, an international holiday typified by a proliferation of pink and an outpouring of love, a counter-movement emerged on TikTok - one which offered a response to the idealized version of romance. Instead, TikTokers embraced their broken hearts and expressed their lovesickness through darkly artistic looks. 

At a time when consumers are chasing alternative aesthetics and challenging conventional beauty tropes, the post-breakup look and revenge face emerge as new artistic expressions. Rising alongside adjacent trends such as #CryingMakeup, #ColdGirl, #GlamGoth and #WednesdyAddamsMakeup, the Anti-Valentines look is typified by glistening faux tears, tracked mascara, the dominance of the color black, fake piercings and trashy, barbed heart artistry. 

Influencers to follow:

@jennseren, @emilytembymakeu, @elpltt, @trinsmakeups

 
 

2. BIG RED BOOTS: NYFW’S MOST VIRAL MOMENT

Rising Hashtags:

#bigredboots: 49M views / #mschf: 1.5B views

It was almost impossible to hide from those MSCHF red boots in February, as every social platform was flooded with influencer posts or memes parodying their cartoonish proportions. Beauty TikTokers and Instagrammers were quick to jump on the hype and appropriate their viralability with irreverent reinterpretations of their bold, red, form. With the help of moldings in the shape of the shoe, nail artists were able to reproduce the model perfectly and create micro-versions for the tips of their nails.

The boots arguably stole most of the NYFW headlines, driving plenty of traffic toward their creators, the Brooklyn-based fashion and art collective, MSCHF. Inspired by Astro Boy, the oversize boots were a piece of creative risk-taking - merging gaming nostalgia with the aesthetics of a metaversal x real-world crossover. But a word of warning for brands - in this era of heightened eco-responsibility, consider the environmental impact of short-term gimmicks. Is there life beyond the hype? 

Influencers to follow:

@aminaoui,@nailsbymei,@bellabacademy,@threadbeauty

 
 

3. PRODUCT DEVIATION: THERE’S ALWAYS A PLAN B

Ever creative, particularly in this tough economic time, TikTokkers are exploring new applications for tried-and-tested products, highlighting new uses that deviate from their primary function or illustrating useful hacks for Beauty emergencies.

  • LIP CRAYON HACK

Imagine a scenario where you’re babysitting before a big night out but you’ve forgotten your makeup kit…Don’t panic! The latest hack to go viral on TikTok shows how a children’s coloring pencil can be used as a lip liner. Just moisten with a touch of water and apply to the lips.

Influencer to follow:

@mimiermakeup

  • CREAM BLUSH HACK

A clever hack that combines convenience and personalization, the idea here is to mix your lipstick (any from your kit) with a liquid foundation to create a unique cream blush color and texture of your liking. 

Influencer to follow:

@beautybaycom

  • PINK UNDEREYES

Rising Hashtags:

#pinkundereyetrend: 59.1M views

Undereye concealer is given added depth and impact by applying pink cream/liquid blush directly on top (before the concealer has been blended) to create a more luminous and fresh finish.

Influencers to follow:

@beautyybylucyy, @jennseren

 
 

4. DIY LIPGLOSS: COST-EFFECTIVE CUSTOMIZATION

Resourcefulness continued to inspire content with the homemade lipgloss trend. Ingenious and inexpensive, TikTokers are creating their own unique shade of lip gloss by mixing transparent gloss with an eyeshadow color of their choice. 

Influencer to follow:

@molchanovamua

 

 

THE CIC TAKE

  • Consumers continue to value creativity, but TikTokers are expanding beyond playful artistry to illustrate new cost-saving and personalization techniques that address current consumer pain points.

  • Experimental riffs on emotional makeup looks should encourage brands to take risks, and use more subversive messaging and visuals that tap into the growing appetite for the unconventional.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our latest Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok February 2023)

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS23: BEAUTY FOCUS 

At the recent Paris Couture shows, trending hair and makeup looks were given sophisticated status. From grown-up Gothic Allure to a sumptuous twist on Clean Girl, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of the 5 key hair and beauty trends to watch:

#1 - Vanilla Girl 

Clean Girl continues to evolve into new territories of minimalism, and Couture week introduced the latest interpretation of the trend: Meet, Vanilla Girl. 

Source: Schiaparelli - Vogue Runway

The warmer, cosier sister of Clean Girl has been gaining momentum on TikTok, where #vanillagirlmakeup currently has 20.7M views.  As the name suggests, this is a more comfortable aesthetic, characterized by soft, buttery textures and neutral colours such as off-white, beige and cream. In Paris, Schiaparelli MUA Pat McGrath referenced the trend through candlelit skin, achieved using a soft matte base accented with a subtle rosy blush applied to the apples and up to the cheekbones. For the lips, a dewy pink balm completed the look. 

#2 - The Return of The Side Fringe 

In recent trend reports, CIC has tracked the growing influence of Kidult Beauty, as creators and consumers play with child-like aesthetics and references to create grown-up looks. This sense of childhood experimentalism seeped into Couture this season, where ultra-short and side-swept fringes evoked memories of self-inflicted home haircuts and early Noughties teen idols. 

Source visual: Armani Privé - Vogue Runway

At Viktor & Rolf, super-short fringes echoed the collection’s overarching Surrealist theme. Hair stylist Olivier Schawalder played with proportion with styles that featured short and blunt fringes paired with sleek, slightly bouffant ponytails.  On the front row at Schiaparelli, Kylie Jenner wore her bangs swept to the side and curved over one eye. 

#3 - Gothic Allure

The influence of Wednesday Addams is far-reaching and for Couture, MUAs put a sophisticated spin on the glam-goth aesthetic, demonstrating its potential to appeal beyond Wednesday’s core Gen Z audience. 

Source visual: Valentino - Julien Da Costa for Le Figaro

At Ronald van der Kemp, Marcello Costa referenced the classic goth aesthetic of matte white base and black lips but contemporized the look with bleached brows and a dramatic, smokey eye with shimmery red undertones. For Valentino, Pat McGrath looked to 80s Club Kids for inspiration with makeup looks that accentuated each model's individuality while playing to sub-culture themes. Many sported matte berry or black vinyl lips, heavily-lined eyes and a dramatic veil blush. 

#4 - ‘20s Redux

Source visual: Dior - ELLE

Serving up references to the iconic women of the 1920s, Dior’s show was rich with sophisticated hair and beauty notes. Guido Palau created hairstyles from the Joséphine Baker school of kiss curl artistry, creating immaculately sculpted looks with not a hair out of place. Short styles were centre-parted and sleeked down, or hair was braided and pulled back into low buns. Even baby hairs were neatly incorporated into each style.  

#5 - All that Brows 

Source visual: Mugler - Vogue Runway

Special attention was given to brows and lashes, as MUAs distorted conventions to play with colour and textural expectations. Echoing the social media trend for “Anti-It Girl” aesthetics, disappearing or bleached brows continue to trend strongly and were spotted at  Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexandre Vauthier and Valentino, among many others.  The blanked-out brow was often offset by juxtaposing, lash and eye looks. At Mugler, neon liner hovered just above the brow and was colour-matched with extra-long lashes. 

The CIC Take

TikTok’s influence is even being felt at Couture level. Key trends that have been buzzing on the platform are being reinterpreted with a luxury focus - from baby hair artistry to soft goth sophistication. Our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto explores how TikTok is helping to change global beauty expectations. Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

Maison & Objet Paris 2023: Interior Inspirations 

Photo by Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

In the midst of this permacrisis, the latest edition of Maison & Object centered design that encourages consumers to refocus and reconnect. The imperative was to “Take Care”; take care of nature, yourself and each other, while also protecting culture, craft and heritage. 

In essence, this was a year for Slow Design, but out went the conventional minimalist aesthetics traditionally associated with the movement, and in came a bolder, more colorful expression of nature and artistry. It echoes the shift in Beauty, where consumer expectations for heightened creativity go hand-in-hand with expectations for care.

Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

#1 - The Home Cocoon: claiming for soothing spaces
The pandemic forced a slower pace of life, demanding consumers spend more time in their homes or appreciating the simple pleasures of nature. The idea of finding comfort in these intimate cocoons remains an important driver for consumers, and for many designers provided a key source of inspiration.  

In this new era, calm isn’t always equivocal with minimalism but is associated with homely, colorful and multi-textured interiors. Sensorial color, hyper-tactile surfaces, juxtaposing patterns and references to the outdoors elicit feelings of warmth and comfort. 

Laura Gonzalez drew inspiration from the tales of the Arabian Nights and the evocative scenes at Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech to create her installation, The revelation came to me from the East. In partnership with Schumacher, Gonzalez created an opulent scenography rich with woven fabrics, carved wood, ceramics and glassware. A color palette of amber,  burnt orange, mahogany and terracotta were accented with pops of green and blue (in reference to Majorelle) to create an evocative mis-en-scene. 

#2  New Ancestral: learning from the Past

Artisanal (and community) preservation is aligned with sustainability, as designers embraced the wonder of ancient handcraft and environmental practices. Craftspeople move to the forefront of design and artful upcycling is celebrated as a desirable skill.

Maison Intègre is an interior design brand based in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, where they create furniture and objects in bronze using the ancestral lost wax technique. Each piece is crafted by hand with recycled metal and is only produced in limited numbers.

Preserving the tradition of French craftsmanship, Galerie MAY produces exceptional furniture incorporating marquetry, lacquer and ceramics, with a decidedly contemporary flourish.

#3 - Regal Nature: praising the natural world

Nature has become the great unifier and healer in a period of upheaval and design is embracing the nature-trend aesthetic. Objects unveil figurations of nature elements putting the light on the animal and vegetal world. 

For the collaboration of Christian Lacroix and Vista Alegre, nature becomes a highly-decorative element to be treasured, reinforcing the precociousness of its vulnerability. Each piece in the collection of fine porcelain is inspired by the beauty and intricacy of nature; with names such as “butterfly parade” and “primavera”.

Home scent brand Erbolinea turns nature motifs into objects of luxury, topping glass reed diffusers with decorative ceramic pine cones and fruits, while Ateliers C&S Davoy places a menagerie of meticulously handmade 3D butterflies in an opulent gold frame. 

#4 - Raw Tactility: feeling through touching

Raw materials and rough, hand-thrown textures speak to the need for touch and sensorial interaction. Interiors dominated by a material palette consisting of wood, marble, travertine and clay, along with the colors of nature have a holistically soothing effect. 

Demand for these tactile materials and calming colors increased during the pandemic as consumers brought elements of wellness design into their homes. Now, designers are incorporating raw materials into ergonomic furniture concepts to create restful, cocooning interior elements. 

#5 - Playful Nostalgia: building a portal to Youth

In a state of permacrisis, playful design offers a safe space. A nostalgic vision that is connected to childhood memories, colors and motifs, emerges as a comforting form of escapism. Retreating into a child-like universe of no stress, no pressure, and no anxiety has become a form of self-soothing.

At Maison et Objet, the spirit of joyful exuberance was captured in the retrospective of Jean Charles de Castelbajac, where an edit of iconic interior pieces by the flamboyant designer confirmed the joy to be found in self-expression. While luxury fragrance brand Mr&Mrs* played with child-like references for their exclusive collection of products designed in collaboration with Guarda Annusa Godi.  

#6 – Awesome Color: designing Melanine decors

Striking color combinations and graphic arrangements are reminiscent of the Memphis Group, which is finding a new audience among Gen Z and Millennials looking to express artistic flair in the home environment. Brilliant simplicity and geometric shapes are emboldened with clashing hues of green, yellow, red, and blue… energy encapsulated by Ettore Sottsass’s iconic Carlton Shelves.

Avant-garde Belgian design collective valerie_objects showcased a collection of simple, geometric wall paintings surrounded by a halo of light from Tramonti Lighting, alongside chairs in paintbox brights by Swiss brand, SILENT. Inspired by various art movements in history, Futurismo presented fine porcelain tableware in vibrant, contrasting colors, and geometric shapes. 

#7  A Versatile Approach: betting on hybridity

With responsible consumption being a key theme at this year’s event, many brands took a versatile approach to design, showcasing products that can be used both inside and outdoors.  Just as we have seen the demand for hybrid and multifunctional beauty products surge, consumers will adopt this mindset across all of their purchase decisions as they seek more sustainable solutions. Increasingly hybrid lifestyles will call for adaptive and versatile interiors. 


The CIC Take:

Slow Living is evolving into Mindful Appreciation, as consumers keep the core principles of living consciously but add their own unique sense of joy and respect for artistry. 

For brands, this will translate into radical new methods of production that are ever more respectful of the environment, and considerate of the well-being of the planet and its inhabitants. Craftsmanship and expertise will be placed at the heart of the creative process. 


The message of Take Care echoes the core theme of our latest White Paper: The Age of Connection, where we highlight the need for Beauty brands to recognize the symbiotic relationship between people and planet. Drop us a line today to get hold of your copy.

The FRAGILE Power of Influencers - Focus on France

Source: Unsplash+

How much influence do influencers really have?  A recent study from Toluna France highlights consumers’ shifting relationship with influencers and their growing expectations for more authentic and purposeful interactions. 

Like almost every other country, France is experiencing the power of influencers. Despite new consumer expectations, tapping the influencer network remains a key way for brands to connect with French Gen Z social addicts. Here are 3 interesting points to highlight from this very rich and interesting survey.

1. The influence of influencers 

Overall, 53% of French consumers admit to following influencers, rising to 84% of Gen Z. Instagram is the preferred channel for influencer consumption at 69%, followed by TikTok at 39%. Among the digital native Gen Z, 89% prefer Instagram for content, and 58% prefer TikTok.


2. Trust is not a given

Pop culture is rife with caricatures and exaggerations of influencers, compounding an overall negative impression - a feeling held by 51% of all French consumers. The image of an influencer is a delicate asset for brands to manage and consumers are increasingly expecting more nuance and authenticity from these relationships. Only 41% trust brands that communicate through influencers. 

Consumers indicate that influencers represent a key source of discovery for new trends (89% overall / 91% for Gen Z), but only 50% say they view influencers as role models. Herein lies the influencer paradox - they are well-known, but not necessarily trusted, and yet two-thirds of consumers (61%) say influencers have an impact on major social issues, such as the environment or inclusion.

3. A symbiotic future

The research suggests that influencers still have a key role to play in the consumer-brand relationship, but expectations have evolved beyond pure product placement/ discovery.  

Nearly 8 in 10 (79%) French consumers expect brands to act more responsibly and extend this to how they engage with influencers. Consumers wish influencers to explore more important topics, reflecting their own shifting priorities. The subjects that consumers believe brands should engage influencers with include global warming (59%), social inequalities (57%), disability (49%) and minority rights (44%).

THE CIC TAKE

As consumers adopt more purposeful purchasing patterns, influencers must connect by becoming advocates for relevant social issues and topics, such as the environment, diversity, and equality. In this way, influencers can build trust and organically guide consumers toward brands.

When trust is not a given, brands need to manage influencer relationships with care. Create a more symbiotic dynamic where CSR values are authentically aligned with choices, and look towards flourishing micro-influencers for an authentic route in.

At Cosmetics IC, we feed our inspiration reports with insights and from our constant observation of social media. Ask about our monthly Instagram Book highlighting the key Beauty influencer's trends, the top 5 brands in EMV in the US, and the latest Instagram looks in Beauty.

Source: Toluna 

What's next for 'Clean Girl'?

Pic: Averie Woodard via Unsplash

In our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto, we explore the future direction of the Clean Girl aesthetic, as consumers evolve the trend into artistic new territories. 

One of the key aesthetics that emerged in 2022

The Clean Girl look centers on neutral, barely-there makeup, effortless yet glossy hair, and neat but understated nails.

This hyper-clean aesthetic continues to capture consumers’ imaginations, but in the fast-paced world of TikTok, #cleanbeauty (2Bn views) is already evolving into new expressions of minimalism. Consumers are leading with artistry, applying elevated skills to their daily routines to create brilliantly bare-faced beauty looks that shift the no-makeup makeup narrative.

How the #CleanGirl trend is influencing Beauty

Looking at Google search data, analysed by our partners at Spate, ultra-clean aspirations are moving in an ‘ultra-soaked’ direction. Shower-fresh and weather-bitten makeup looks are emerging as the next iterations of Clean Girl. 

Spate reveals an upsurge in wet-adjacent search terms including ‘juicy’, ‘dewy’, ‘glossy’, ‘glass’ and ‘jelly’. Year-on-year Google searches for ‘Dewy’ are up +73.6% and ‘Dewy Skin’ is +40.6%, (based on Google searches – 2022 vs 2021).

The Clean Girl aesthetic is not just for the face, we’re also seeing the trend reflected in a growing desire for minimalist nails, as seen in our latest analysis of nail trends.

 What it means for Beauty innovation

Consumers understand that there’s more to immaculate skin than meets the eye and they are scouting for products that double-down on benefits - pairing hydration with skin-smoothing - to create the best canvas for their Bare Artistry. 

Inspired by the K-beauty trend for skin slugging, new techniques that drench the skin (and hair) in ultra-rich moisture are becoming mainstream, thanks to social media. This movement is inspiring a new generation of clean foundations with super-moisturising capabilities, which are loaded with active ingredients inlcuding hyaluronic acid and precious oils; according to Spate figures, ‘Water-based Foundation’ searches are at +43.9% YoY.  Sales of prestige radiant foundations also increased by 42% from January to the end of October 2022, while sales of prestige highlighters increased by 24% (Source: NPD). 

Among the key launches in this space, which are highlighted in our report, is Westman Atelier’s Vital Skincare Complexion Drops (August 2022) which has the texture of a serum and the beauty of a skin tint. As a “bare skin” magnifier, it improves skin quality thanks to the inclusion of Tsubaki oil, ginseng and pomegranate extract.

TikTokers are moving on from matte to embrace still-in-the-shower wet looks, and this new direction is about achieving the ultimate all-over gloss on the skin, lids, lips and hair.  It’s a look that can be obtained with About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss or the Gloss Medium formula from Pleasing, which can be used across the lips, eyes and face to create a radiant allover, high-velocity sheen or applied over pigments to elevate color and obtain a more glossy finish.

The CIC Take

There is an opportunity for brands to investigate new hyper-clean narratives, pairing the fundamentals of the clean aesthetic (hydrated and flawless skin, understated beauty) with creative new interpretations; from ‘I’m Cold’ to ‘Shower Makeup’. These are trends born and evolving on TikTok, where Gen Z creators are expressing the notion of ‘healthy’ in increasingly novel and artistic ways.

We explore the evolution of the hyper-clean trend, and much more, in our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto. As ever, our research is supported by Spate’s invaluable data insights. Contact us today for more details.

TIKTOK INSPIRATIONaL trends BEAUTY TRENDS - # january23

@hayley_bui /@garabceluru/ @zoekimkenealy - TikTok

No social platform has impacted Beauty quite in the way that TikTok has. The platform’s unique algorithm allows for any creator (be it a big brand or unique user) to go viral, propelling the site’s reputation as a space for discovery.

TikTok-onomics

Over half of all users (52%) now say they discover new products on the platform, a behavior that has shifted TikTok from a social network to an experiential media. Its influence on beauty trends, the success of new brands, the revival of long-forgotten products and the reinvention of heritage brands is propelling the industry to new levels of innovation and creativity. Based on our ranking on the total of followers, Huda Beauty is the #1 ranked Beauty brand on TikTok, with 8.4 million followers and 173.2 million likes. Next, is Kylie Cosmetics with 3.4 million followers and 24.4 million likes, followed by Florence By Mills at #3 (2.8 million followers and 47.2 million likes), Kaja at #4 (1.7 million followers and 25.4 million likes) and Fenty at #5 (1.5 million followers and 24.5 million likes).

Below, discover 3 key TikTok trends in January to inspire new beauty directions over the year ahead:  

1- I’M COLD

The counter-response to last summer’s sunburn blush trend is this season’s “I’m Cold” makeup. With over 234.8M views on TikTok, #Imcoldmakeup is defined by flushed rosy cheeks, a red-tipped nose, frosted lids and clear or frost-bitten lips. 

Much like the Clean Girl trend, the wintery makeup look is about enhancing the natural flush through elevated artistry. Blush is the key product here, which is applied on the apples of the cheeks upwards, across the bridge of the nose and to the tip. Some TikTokkers are even recreating chapped lips by applying cream blush around the lip line. 

Influencers to follow:

 
 
 

Rising Hashtags:

#Imcoldmakeup: 234.8M / #wintermakeup: 192.6M views

2 - CRYING MAKEUP

Another trend propelled by TikTok MUA Zoe Kim Kenealy, “Crying Makeup” recreates the effects of a post-crying face - typified by a tear-streaked complexion, red eyes, smudged liner, and flushed cheeks. 

In Kenealy’s viral tutorial, she uses blush to create a soft redness around the eyes, nose, and cheeks while applying a liquid, glitter eyeshadow to make the eyes appear teary. Glitter gel is also applied to the face to replicate tears, while lips are smudged with lipstick and gloss. Key products include Fenty Beauty’s Double Cheek’d Up - a limited-edition duo of cream blush shades -  AMTS Liquid Glitter Shadow in 02, NYX Professional Makeup Slide On Lip Pencil, and EM Cosmetics Soft Spoken Lips in Manifest and Intuition. About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss is applied for a wet-look shine on the eyelids, cheeks, and cupid’s bow.

Influencers to follow:

 
 
 

Rising Hashtags:

#cryingmakeuptutorial: 25.3B views / #makeupgirlcrying: 91.1M views / #crygirlmakeup: 101.3M views

3 - DISAPPEARING BROWS

 From bleached brows to no brows, TikTokkers move the statement brow into another dimension by removing them altogether. The latest evolution in the brow trend cycle, sees brows disappear as bold TikTokkers move on from laminated, fluffy, and super-skinny to play with a more experimental new look. 

Doja Cat spurred the trend when she recently shaved off her brows and replaced them with drawn-on abstract shapes and colours, paving the way for TikTok creators to experiment with their own artistic no-brow looks. Cue TikTokkers sharing ‘shaving’ videos as they remove their own brows and play with a more extreme beauty narrative, some other present tutorials using correctors and concealers to create the #disappearingbrows look.

Influencers to follow:

 
 
 

Rising Hashtags:

#eyebrowsdisappear: 9.7B views / #eyebrowdisappearfilter: 71.1M views / #missingeyebrowfilter: 5.8M views / #missingeyebrow: 5.7M views/

#noeyebrowstrend: 241.1M views

THE CIC Take

Beauty trends are increasingly being shaped and propelled by peer-to-peer communities, with TikTok the favored platform for interaction, advice, inspiration and education.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our new Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok January 2023)