Seoul - The Retail Creative Hub

All aboard the Seoul Train!

In July we were finally able to resume our Seoul Inspiration Tour - our expert-curated guide to the beauty capital, created in partnership with South Korean retail experts, Latitude37.

We couldn’t have been happier to guide clients through a packed itinerary that covered K-beauty hot spots, pop-ups, cult brands, cool cafes, must-see exhibitions and the trendiest bars. Every single destination was selected by us, along with Latitude 37, with the sole aim to fire inspiration.

Below, is just a small taster of the type of retail hot spots you can expect from a week’s itinerary in the K-beauty capital.

1/ Dior Pop-Up - Luxury Redefined

Photo Credit: Dior

location: 7, Yeonmujang 5-gil, Seongsu-dong

product: RTW, accessories, cafe

dates: Until 2025

dior.com

Redefining the very idea of a pop-up, Dior goes BIG for Seoul, with a three-year plan to bring experiential luxury retail to the city’s trendy Seongsu-dong district. The facade of the vast 1,700 sqm building features a metal mesh structure with a glass roof, recalling the company’s newly renovated headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. The multi-storey boutique also features a cafe, where visitors can sup in front of a large digital screen that reproduces a trompe l’oeil replica of the gardens of Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, Normandy.

 

2/ Ader Space 3.0 - Sci-fi leap into the future

Ader Space - Photo by Latitude 37 for Cosmetics IC

location: 518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu

product: contemporary streetwear, accessories , cafe

adererror.com


Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store, in the Sinsa-dong area of Gangnam district, takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, Ader Error 3.0 is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. A changing room can double as a noraebang singing room, another opens to a room with a bunk bed, fixtures and fittings move on demand, and to reach the cafe, visitors have to walk through a hotel-like hallway.

 3/ Uncommon - Cashless redesigned

Credit: Uncommon store - Photo Yongjoon Choi

location: The Hyundai Seoul, 108 Yeoui-daero, Sixth Floor

product: convenience store

@uncommonstore_official

 The ultimate convenience store- cashless, staffless and all app-controlled, Uncommon comes from local architecture and design studio Archi@Mosphere. Before entering the store, consumers download an app, and then scan their phones at the entrance. They can then shop snacks, drinks, fresh fruits and a selection of toiletries with the app taking control of all payments. The store interior is a mash-up of minimalist futurism with retro signage.

Our Inspiration Tours

We tailor every Inspiration Tour to our client’s exacting needs, so drop us a line today to take the next step on your inspiration journey.

Every tour is guided and comes with a complete book with description, addresses and inspiration seeds.

 

DISRUPTION FOR THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY

photo: Maksim Gonchareno - Pexels

We’ve reached the climate crisis point, and as business leaders grapple with the challenges of sustainable sourcing and production, it’s clear that we are about to enter a period of disruption.

Sustainability First

New research from Bain & Company outlines the unsustainability of our current rate of consumption - we are using the equivalent of 1.75 times the earth’s natural resources every year. Businesses are now putting the principles of the circular economy into action as they try to get a handle on this crisis. And those in charge are full of positive intentions - the supply chain executives interviewed by Bain and Company say they are planning to double the share of the revenue from circular products and services by 2030.

They must follow the example of indie disruptors by examining how circular sourcing and production can actually spur growth and ultimately reduce costs; convert waste into assets, invest in biotech, look at ways of reducing and recycling carbon, and develop packaging with a continuous lifecycle.

Learning from Beauty

In the Beauty industry, we have seen how circular innovation has been pivotal to the success of insurgent brands, such as Plus Body Wash and its dissolvable sachets; Noble Panacea’s refill keepsakes, and the lab-grown actives that power Biossance products. Transitioning to a circular business model is now key to survival, as consumers demand accountability and action.

In our latest skincare report - The New State of Being - we highlight the key prospective theme of Empathy Awakened, through which we explore three pathways to a more sustainable and equitable future.

Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

 

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022

 

Why brands should think more about adaptive Beauty

Photo: Ron Lash via Pexels

In a world where 15% of the population are living with some form of disability and the number of people aged over-60 is set to double by 2050, it is now critical for brands to consider Adaptive Beauty as part of their strategy.

Representing a quarter of the population in the United States, people with disabilities hold an estimated spending power of $490 billion, yet their needs continue to be overlooked by many brands. Forward-thinking companies are beginning to bring solutions with adaptive products, tools and packaging that allow those with particular needs to be part of the Beauty conversation - without any concessions or limitations. We are already seeing early signs of a new approach to Beauty taking shape, where holistic empathy for all humans and for the planet is driving new product innovation and creative expression. 

Beauty Brands can take inspiration from other industries, which are making accessibility a priority.


  1. Innovation in adaptive fashion and sportswear

    In fashion, Tommy Hilfigers Spring 2021 Adaptive Collection was designed specifically for adults and children living with disabilities. Nike has created a handsfree sneaker in the Go FlyEase, which works due to the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge holding the shoe in a steady open position. While Gen Z brand Rebirth Garment tackles accessibility through a body non-conformist lens, creating bold wearables and accessories for people on the full spectrum of gender, size and ability. Similarly pitching at a younger demographic Intimately is a new, trend-led adaptive lingerie brand that designs for individuals with reduced hand dexterity and shoulder mobility. There is also an Intimately mobile app where members of the disabled community can connect with one another.


  2. Facilitating in-store access

    Pantene have partnered with blind broadcaster and TikTokker Lucy Edwards for the launch of their new NaviLens codes on Pantene Miracles products and display shelving. NaviLens is like a next-generation QR code;. users download the NaviLens app to scan with their mobile camera to receive the distance to the product, along with the necessary information contextualized, in this instance product information including descriptions of the bottle shapes.

    A Starbucks store located inside the Seoul National University Dental Hospital sets the tone for what truly adaptive retail can look like. The entire store, including back-of-house, is fully wheelchair accessible, and all staff are trained in basic Korean Sign Language. Other features include contactless speech-to-text voice recognition through a tablet, a Braille menu, and digital signage which lets customers track the progress of their order.

    Amplifying its commitment to size and skin tone inclusivity, Savage x Fentys new Las Vegas flagship leverages tech to create a more inclusive and safer shopping environment. The store features Fit:Match AI technology, using an iPhone to scan a shopper’s body dimensions in a matter of seconds. The app then provides product recommendations based on the user’s size and shape, allowing them to purchase without having to try on in-store.


  3. Adaptive Beauty underway

    In Beauty, inclusivity and accessibility are also moving beyond the issue of skin color. Kohl Kreatives is a post-inclusive beauty brand specialising in tools supporting individuals with motor disabilities, transgender people and individuals going through, or recovering from, cancer treatment. The Flex Collection makeup brush set is tailored towards anyone with a motor disability or disease.

    Olay has developed the open-source and unpatented Easy Open Lid to widen the accessibility of the brand’s moisturiser products. The lid has winged sides and a raised top with added texture for grip, higher-contrast product labels and Braille text. The lid was developed in consultation with physical therapists, occupational therapists, and UX experts to improve usability for people with a wide range of dexterity issues. 


Adaptive Beauty is one of the trends we highlight in our latest USA Trend Report - The New State of Being. It is also one of the key highlights or our White Paper - The age of Fluidity - Trends 2022 and beyond.

Contact us for more information.


THE AGE OF FLUIDITY - FIVE BEAUTY PREDICTIONS FOR 2022 AND BEYOND

Photo: Pexels - Valera Evane

Beauty brands must adapt to the new normal, in order to benefit from the announced resilience of the beauty market,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation. 

Despite the rolling uncertainty of living in a With Covid world, McKinsey predicts that Beauty sales in 2022 will overtake the pre-pandemic levels of 2019. Consumer sentiment is optimistic, and the urge to create moments of escapism and entertainment in the midst of all the unpredictability - is very real. 

TikTok fuels creativity and the shift towards self-education that happened over lockdown has enhanced consumers’ knowledge and skill-set. This creative autonomy, along with the rising digitalization of culture and the Gen Z influx are culminating to redefine Beauty. And in this new phase of aesthetic experimentation, makeup rebounds as a symbol of joy.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation.

In the future, consumers will learn the value of approaching life with a fluid mindset. If 2020-21 forced consumers to become rapidly adaptable, then 2022 and beyond will see them apply this flexible approach to deal with the dynamic motion of living in an uncertain world.

Taking this newfound adaptability into consideration, below, is a snapshot of the five key trends that will impact the industry in 2022 and beyond.

For the full white paper, please drop us a line.  

#1 From Sustainability to Beauty Uncompromised

Innisfree Seoul - Collaboration for good 

Innisfree reopened its recycling store with an enhanced commitment to waste reduction, which includes interactive spaces for workshops and lectures where customers can create their own upcycled beauty accessories. There is also a corner of the store dedicated to spotlighting other eco-friendly brands; the first to be highlighted was The Picker - a zero-waste platform that sells everyday household products.(Source: Innisfree Instagram) 

In 2022, purposeful beauty merges with sustainability to create a new beauty eco-system - one that is built upon uncompromising standards and principles. Consumers are pushing beyond ‘clean’ to a place of uncompromised wellbeing - where pleasure and personal beauty are achieved without detriment to people or the planet. The expectation is for nothing less than net-zero. 

The rising climate anxiety is propelling consumers into taking affirmative action - over half (51%) now factor in whether a product was produced with a traceable and transparent origin. And, attuned to the tropes of greenwashing rhetoric and marketing messages, consumers will drive brands to adopt proactive climate-positive strategies. 

When it comes to production, radical transparency is key. 61% of consumers say they struggle to tell whether a beauty product is ethically produced by looking at its packaging, while half of would like brands to make it easier for them to spot how a product was produced (Source: Poll of 2,000 adults by study by Wella's weDo/ Professional). Going forward, consumers will t to be told to The Who, The Where and The How behind each product. 

This signals a clear shift from sustainability to beauty uncompromised, where brands will need to reinforce their their transparency credentials.

Beauty brands can deliver assurances by putting transparency at the center of the product experience, freeing the consumer to enjoy and experiment without guilt or compromise. 

#2. From Color to Joyspotting

Everyone should be able to have the freedom to enjoy makeup” - Danessa Myrick

Photo: Danessa Myrick Facebook

Joyspotting reveals a new facet of beauty, one where makeup is cumulatively self-care, a tool of transformation and a manifestation of self-fluidity.  

This is a trend borne from the Tiktokization of the Beauty industry - where creators and influencers encourage followers to escape from the rules and embrace the fluidity of experimentation. On TikTok, there’s no room for perfection or judgement, just joy - a third of users (31%) report turning to the app in order to lift their spirits.

Fuelled by these influences, Beauty in 2022 will be rich with aesthetic rebellion and fluid creativity. The face and body will become canvases for celebratory makeup looks. And consumer sentiment is firmly behind experimentation - Pinterest reports a spike in searches for mullet hairstyles (+190%); tooth gems (+85%); bejewelled eye looks (+110%) and rhinestone pedicures (+150%).

In the US, rising brand Danessa Myrick is connecting with next-gen Joyspotters through a strategy built on inclusion and artistry. The brand’s ethos that, ”everyone should be able to have the freedom to enjoy makeup,” speaks to the new fluidity.  The color-changing pigments of the brand’s signature Chrome Flakes are representative of the new wave of ephemeral and transformative products that are only just beginning to emerge. 

Creative ephemerality also comes to the fore, with new products and devices allowing users to easily switch up their beauty looks. In South Korea, nails become a vehicle for self-expression as the pandemic continues to stifle opportunities to showcase creative flair beyond the home. In response,  nails are getting bigger and bolder, popping with 3D accents of glitter, crystals and jewellery. In the future, Brands will approach the art of beauty as an act of pleasure, and those that can deliver an instant shot of happiness will connect with consumers, who are looking for products to lift them out of the pandemic slump. 

#3. From Inclusivity to Radical Adaptive Beauty

Noto Botanics, a gender-neutral beauty line, focuses on sustainable, organic and vegan products that are gender fluid and multiuse.

Photo: Noto Botanics Facebook

As we move towards a post-inclusive society the beauty industry will seek to further individualise its approach. The industry will need to push beyond skin-tone matching to encircle all aspects of inclusivity, including the Gen Z vs Mature skin silos. As we move forward,  fluidity will be treated with the same value and respect as accessibility and adaptability.

And as we evolve our understanding of what true inclusivity means, today’s diverse and multifaceted consumers will expect to be met with products that fit their exacting needs. Beauty products that radically adapt to individuality, moving from social specificities seen at the surface (skin tone, hair type, etc) to a profound understanding of the "underskin" mechanism, will continue to emerge.  And we are only just beginning to see what is possible, as brands start to come through with tailored products that more insightfully address biological or physical nuances. 

In the Future, the Beauty industry will take action to ensure that no consumer is left out of the conversation - regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, size or ability. Currently, 15% of the world’s population are living with some form of disability, and as the population ages, this number will only increase. Designing products, tools and packaging with this demographic in mind should be imperative for the industry. 

As the fashion industry makes strides towards full social inclusivity, the Beauty industry will keep pace to ensure no consumer is left out of the beauty conversation - regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, size or ability.  

#4- From Skinification to Augmented Underskin

Be Radiance infuse their makeup powders with probiotics, for a healthy approach to skin complexion.

Photo: Be Radiance

The pandemic has stirred the ultra-fetishization of wellness and the healthification of the beauty industry. With a preventive mindset becoming the new normality, consumers are focused on care and safety, and they crave potent, power-dosing ingredients across all of their beauty products. In response, brands are engineering products using the latest technological advances, while at the same time introducing new, biological semantics into the beauty narrative. 

Stories around skin barrier empowerment, microbiome and psychobiological enhancers, hormonal regulators and circadian champions will continue to break through, as brands add another level of science-proofing to the consumer experience. And in the years ahead, consumers will be alerted to a new discourse around the underskin. More and more brands come with sophisticated formula with “skin health” related ingredients. Be Radiance now infuse their makeup powders with probiotics, which activate with water to positively “colonize the microbiota” explains the brand. A global beauty approach of the skin, where makeup goes beyond color as it rebalances the skin while protecting it against external aggressions.

In the future, products that adapt to the rise of skin sensitivity will become critical for consumers who want to preserve their skin health, without sacrificing performance. In this context, the boundaries between makeup and skincare, food and beauty will blur. A new generation of hybrid products will explode the frontiers between traditional segments to levitate beauty to new horizons.

#5- From Home Spa to Temporal beauty Tech

L’Oreal’s AI-integrated hair coloring device presented at CES 2022

Tech is tapping the mood for fluidity, as innovation keeps pace with consumer demand for products that allow them to seamlessly switch-up their beauty looks, from home.  And science-backed products, temporary treatments and formulations engineered to cheat surgical procedures, appeal to those looking for sophisticated out-of-the-jar beauty solutions. 

Since the pandemic ushered in new ways of working and living, consumers quickly learned how to adapt and realised that joy can be found in impermanence. Now, the desire to eschew long-term commitments for temporary thrills is taking hold in beauty. Innovations at CES 2022 captured this creative ephemerality - from L’Oreal’s AI-integrated hair coloring device, the Colorsonic, to the handheld temporary tattoo-printing machine from start-up, Prinker.

Last year, we also began to track the rise of beauty ‘tweakments’ - where consumers opted for small, professional beauty hacks to elevate their everyday look. In the eye brow category, we have seen an upsurge of interest in procedures that will impact the brow segment in beauty. According to Spate data, eye brow lamination Google searches in 2022 reached 266.2K monthly search volume, rising +55.6 % year-over-year and searches for botox brow lift were +29,2%.

In the future, scientific legitimacy coupled with technological precision will allow consumers to achieve - and measure - next-level results, without the commitment of permanent procedures. 

Every year, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation reveals the Top Five Predictions and a white paper reserved for clients. Meet us at the Makeup in Los Angeles on February 23-24, 2022 to discover the Inspiration Bar around the four first topics and the Beauty Talks where creators of brands and experts of the industry will share their vision of the evolution of Beauty.

Beauty’s Bounceback IN USA

Pic: Pexels - Guilherme Almeida

The latest figures from The NPD Group underscore the rising mood of consumer optimism, as the US beauty industry emerges from last year +30% versus 2020 (the equivalent of $22bn in sales).  Fragrance was the best performing category (+49%) YoY, followed by haircare (+47%), makeup (+23%), and skincare (+18%).  

 

For many, returning to the office and the revival of social activities has fuelled the appetite for new products. Coupled with a lockdown diet of TikTok tutorials, consumers are feeling more creative and experimental than ever. According to NPD’s data, there was a growth in sales of cream and stick blushes - two products that have gained particular popularity on social media. Further to that, brands helmed by high profile influencers and creators had the highest revenue gains among all the makeup brand types. 

 

In the skincare category, sales of facial cleansers, creams, and serums, grew between 15% and 24%, versus 2020. Sales of targeted products, like eye and lip treatments, also increased. Clinical skincare brands contributed the highest revenue gains to the category, and surpassed natural as the largest brand type in skincare, based on revenue.

 

“As we move through 2022, the beauty companies that will thrive are those that harness the industry’s unique ability to spread joy, while also recognizing the opportunities of a changed consumer and retail environment. We can expect more change to unfold in 2022, but, along with these changes, new opportunities for the beauty industry will present themselves.” Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at NPD

 

In our latest trend report, The New State of Being - Makeup, our team charts beauty’s positive rebound and how optimistic consumer sentiment is not only driving the continued bounceback of the beauty market but is also translating into exciting new product directions. Our next report, The New State of Being - Skincare, will be available in March. 

 

BEAUTY IS BACK - 3 MAKEUP TRENDS TO FOLLOW

 
 

As the post-pandemic reality takes shape and consumer confidence slowly returns in line with the vaccine roll-out, we move forward with energy and optimism. Our latest What’s Up report outlines the bold creativity, energy and positivity with which consumers are facing everything from the return to socialization to the climate crisis. 

According to data from NPD, a third of US consumers plan to spend more this Holiday season, with almost two-thirds of consumers saying they are more comfortable shopping in-store than they were last year.  All signs point towards a rebound for the Beauty industry -  in the first half of 2021, makeup sales were +23% on 2019, and +22% on 2020. This over-arching positivity is evident in all of the core trends we highlighted this season; Beauty is being rebooted to meet the appetite for renewal and rebirth. 

 Our latest What’s Up report features 10 of the most exiting trends to follow to be ahead of the beauty game. Here is a little extract of 3 trends of our book.

#1 BEAUTY RESET

Source : Simihaze

 It’s time to hit the reset button. As we start to put some distance between the present and the pandemic, this is the moment for a Beauty recalibration. Exciting new brands, helmed by next-generation tastemakers, are breaking through with energy while established brands are taking the opportunity to realign their values with the new reality. We look ahead to the launch of Ariana Grande’s hotly tipped beauty line, r.e.m beauty, and check out the new brand Treslúce from creative powerhouse Becky G - a champion of contemporary LatinX culture. Similarly injecting bold expressionism into makeup, DJs, models and twin sisters Simi and Haze Khadra have launched their eponymous beauty line, Simihaze. Meanwhile, Sephora backs the rebirth of Fashion Fair - a 56-year old veteran of the Black beauty scene.

#2 FULL FLUSH

Source : Anna Sui NYFW 2021

What does a post-mask world look like? The transition from masks-on to masks-off is driving the trend for experimental product placement and colour-play, with flushed cheeks and temples signalling health and vitally to the world.  At NYFW, makeup artists at Anna Sui, Collina Strada, and Carolina Herrera applied blush high on the temples and across the eyes, as a contouring product to bring a new focus to alternative features. The message was clear; blushing-up is the new going-out makeup.  And in this experimental new beauty era, cheeks are not the only area on which to place blush. Eyes have taken on an even greater resonance over the past 18 months and now blush is being applied to underscore the power of the gaze. 

#3 JOYDRESSING GLAM

Source : Tom Ford NYFW 2021 & Saint Sintra NYFW 2021

The stage is set for beauty that is all about expressing unadulterated joy; from glitter drizzles to rhinestone-encrusted cat-eyes. Embodied by Tom Fords SS22 collection of glamorous sensuality, where jewelled brights and sequined fabrics were layered for a loose, louche silhouette, this next trend is all about The Glam. Capturing the Gen Z market for Y2K-inflected references, noughties club makeup popped on the NYFW catwalk at Saint Sintra and influenced the MUA for Private Policy. And plenty of brands are now tapping into this post-pandemic party spirit, with the likes of About Face, Iconic London and Danessa Myricks Beauty all dropping products that feature liquid glow, high-pigment glitter and infinite chrome. The party era is upon us.

Emotional Artistry - unleashing the color of FREEDOM

 
Photo by Alejandro Peralta from Pexels

Photo by Alejandro Peralta from Pexels

 

A new tide of optimism is being announced, unleashing freedom of expression through the uprise of artistic looks. The Beauty landscape broadens to new creative levels, propelled by GenZ brands that theatricalize self-expression and prioritize disruptive color looks. To fight boredom in lockdowns or celebrate restrictions lifting, emotional art remains the best way to reconnect with one's creativity. Artistic makeup makes a comeback with bold styles and colorful products. Moreover, with digital technology fully integrated into everyday life, new dimensions are explored in self-expression territories. 

Here is an extract of our latest trend reports revealing the new staging of color and the implication for innovation.

LIMITLESS HUMANOID

Infinity is now the limit of human creativity, as colored liners and ultra-pigmentation redefine makeup art. Fantasy with unique looks and dreamlike experiences prevail on social media – going above and beyond the body territory. During the Byredo makeup collection launch, the brand shared photos where the models have randomly applied different makeup textures all over their faces. Some creative Instagram accounts theatricalize colorful designs on the ears and lips, such as @marthamakeupartist, or showcase tricolor nail cascades at @nailshawty.

Source: Instagram @nailshawty nails art.

Source: Instagram @nailshawty nails art.

For makeup innovations, it creates a multitude of possibilities as consumers focus on self-expression. According to Spate NYC (May 2021), the searches and interest for inner eyeliner have grown +77.4% since last year. It resonates with the growing demand for colored liners: at Haus Laboratories with the Eye-Dentify Gel Pencil Eyeliner; at Freck Beauty with The Alien Eyes Lid Lick, which plays on offbeat semantics; and at Melolops with ultra-pigmented ink. Recently, About Face complemented its Matte Fluide Eye Paint collection with four limited-edition “Daytripper” pastel shades: a gentle lavender, soft aqua, tender green, and a mellow yellow. Inspired by the freedom and artistic expression of the ‘60s and ‘70s, the super-saturated chromatic pastels in the matte powder formula give a significant color impact for limitless looks. 

Source: About Face - Daytripper Matte Fluide Eye Paint

Source: About Face - Daytripper Matte Fluide Eye Paint

MOMA COUTURE

As lockdowns restrictions ease, consumers desire color cosmetics such as lipstick and blush more than ever. According to Spate NYC (May 2021), searches and interest for pink lipsticks have grown +18.9% since last year. Colors remain a vital element to create a self-universe. Suva Beauty Palette with ultra-saturated pigments cultivates this MOMA atmosphere and serves well the colorful ambitions. Suva Beauty re-edits and renames its eyeliner palette Hydra FX Collection of water eyeliner into “We make rainbows jealous” to celebrate Pride Month 2021. Byredo’s Prismic Palette includes a rainbow of 18-eyeshadow shade with high-impact glitter, neon matte, and metallic finish. Ciaté London released the Mascara Smiley in pink, yellow, and green and Lime Crime 51 Volumizing Mascara in green, purple, and blue.

Sources: Model.com and Byredo Prismic Palette // Hilda wearing Suva Beauty Hydra FX Collection

Sources: Model.com and Byredo Prismic Palette // Hilda wearing Suva Beauty Hydra FX Collection

GAMIFIED VICTORY

In the age of tech explosion, some gamers regularly bring out their old consoles and immerse themselves in their childhood adventures. The retro gaming aesthetic has been increasingly present outside gaming platforms with gamified products in the past months. For example, Kaja Beauty released Joystick Brightening Setting Powder, a powder applied with a joystick-shaped brush. Other brands developed experiential products like XX Revolution with Light Up Lip Gloss and Light Up Eyeshadow Palette Light's On that both include light and mirror to be reapplied in the dark. 

Other beauty consumers utilize the new gaming world as an area of futuristic and modern makeup. The lavender color emerges from this trend and recalls the transition to the metaverse. In Beauty, GenZ brand Dragun Beauty used Lavender as a core shade for its product and collaborated with Morphe for a collection inspired by the gaming universe. Digital Lavender will be the focal shift to tap into digital escapism with sensoriality and immersive designs, as seen previously with Sinful Color Essenchills Scented Lavender. Brands also explore this new territory with avatars-like looks thanks to products like Nomad - Iceland Fire and Ice Palette or Facelace’s eye stickers that bring in glitter and holographic eye shapes. 

Source: Facelace

Source: Facelace

Color cosmetics are making a comeback and so are bold looks. As an expression of freedom and optimism, consumers unveil colorful and artistic looks pushing further the creativity boundaries. “Limitless Humanoid” conveys this expression of infinite human possibilities, while “MOMA Couture” emphasizes the central place of colors. “Gamified Victory” brings the omnipresent gaming dimension into makeup. Old gaming nostalgias or futuristic metaverse are sources of creative art inspirations.

This blog post presents some extracts of our previous Beauty reports: What’s Up USA and Revivalism Makeup USA. Contact the agency for more information on full reports.
Follow Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation on Twitter and on Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

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3 MUST-FOLLOW ON THE GRAM THAT EMBODY THE SPIRIT OF 2021

Unsplash / Georgia de Lotz

Unsplash / Georgia de Lotz

The Gram is not dead! After an unprecedented year, this social media was strengthened, deepened, and widened by users. The platform turned ten years old in 2020, with more than 1 billion people worldwide using Instagram everyday, 30 minutes a day, in 2021(Source).

For our dear trends hunters, we have selected three must-follow accounts that embody the spirit of 2021.

1) The “Skintellectual”

Capture d’écran 2021-02-16 à 13.23.23.png

@seangarrette / 75,4k followers

On social media, a new wave of “Skintellectuals” shapes the way we use skincare. Cosmetics experts and skin enthusiasts are extremely well-read and know each must-have ingredients by heart.

First global ambassador of Fenty Skin, Sean Garrette, is a beauty aesthetician based in NYC. As a young black beautician, Sean is inclusivity-driven. He aims to make skincare as approachable and accessible as possible.

 Everyday, the "skinfluencer" deciphers products and ingredients for his community on his Instagram.

2) The Edgy Guru

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@rowisingh

207k followers

With just over 200k influencers, Rowi is the must-follow new Edgy guru.

The Sydney-based make-up artist embodies the edgy approach of Gen Z to color and make-up looks. Inclusive, impactful, and saturated, she goes beyond the lines and the traditional pairings of shades.

She’s not afraid to mix all textures and effects, as long as it feels and looks never-seen. Breaking all codes, she aims to open new undiscovered paths to makeup. 

She is also an inclusive feminist.

I love being able to communicate the strength and power of my South Asian womanhood,” she muses. “I’m empowered to visualize the natural fluidity between my culture and art.”

3/ The “Mood” Curator

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@the.pinklemonade - 2,2M followers

Created by @fra_vullo, The Pink Lemonade is a shining example of "mood & Beauty curators" Instagram accounts. 

Made to inspire and to give indie artists visibility, these accounts are flowing all over social media. A perfect daily dose of everything Beauty (makeup looks, design, retail, photographers, pottery, etc.)

Each day, an image, to create a whimsical Cabinet de Curiosité.

One post a day = escapism, good vibes & indie inspiration.

 

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Agency publishes an Instagram trend-book every season, to help you keep up with the best trends from social media. Contact the agency for more information.


Follow the agency on Twitter ou Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

Top 5 Beauty PREDICTIONS for 2021 ( and Beyond)

Photo Credit -  Isco

Photo Credit - Isco

2020 has been the year of acceleration of significant trends and a year that has reshaped the market forever, as consumers have disrupted their behavior in the way they shop, their needs, and their beauty aspirations. As 2021 has started, hopes are emerging, and brands need to prepare for the new normal. 

Consumers have lived through a year of new experimentations, more in-depth knowledge through digitalization, and have had the time to think about what they truly value in their lives (and their Beauty). 

 2021 will be essential to reinvent, find new dimensions of excellence and luxury, redefine values, meet new requirements, and participate in resilience.

This article highlights 5 of our predictions in 2021 and beyond, based on key highlights from 2020 and the evolutions we expect for the future.

An extract of a white paper available at the agency. 

1.      From Transparency to Radical Traceability

As trust is the new currency, safety and wellness become key; brands will need to explore radical traceability solutions. 

Transparency is a prerequisite of conscious consumption, and 2020 has reinforced the need to make a safe choice for anything applied on skin. Moreover, reaching global wellbeing implies ethical decisions, especially in luxury.  IPSOS Luxury survey shows that 90% of the affluent Chinese expect brands to have an ethical/ecological commitment, and 88% expect them to respect animal wellbeing. More than words, consumers call for facts. 

According to the UEBT 2020 survey, consumers expect more information on packaging: 82% want to know the origin of ingredients, and 78% wish to know the social impact of sourcing local ingredients. In 2020, the discussion on ethical sourcing accelerated.  In the USA, Beautycounter has made a massive communication on responsible sourcing, pointing out the “clean” origing of their Mica and the urgence to fight against hidden forced labor. 

British E-Retailer, Cult, has cooperated with the blockchain technology platform Provenance to collect information about the source, ingredients, craftsmanship, and requirements of its products, and then use evidence to prove the authenticity of this information

2.      From "Skinification" to augmented "Healthification."

"Skinification" was the major trend in 2020, as consumers shifted from makeup to the "pandemic-proof" skincare market. But what 2020 has taught us is the importance of prevention for our health. According to Innova's Consumer Survey 2020, "six out of ten global consumers are increasingly looking for F&B products that support their immune health. One in three says that concerns about immune health increased in 2020 over 2019". 

A healthy complexion has always been the quintessence of Beauty, but consumers are actively looking at ingredients that bring more than a quick fix or beautiful makeup. According to WWD, Vitamins, supplements, and even homeopathic remedies experienced unprecedented levels of demand during the April coronavirus pandemic in the US. We have seen skincare transitioning to self-care, as consumers were spending more time at home, dealing with anxiety and their mental health. Interest in wellness has increased, and new brands are taking the stand to answer this new need. Psychotherapy brand Disciple offers a holistic approach to stress-relief and answers to anxiety-related skin issues such as acne.

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The British wellness DTC brand Nue Co. launched Forest Lungs, a fragrance "supplement" intended to "deliver the healing effects of nature to the body [and] support the reduction of everyday stress."   

 

3.      From Skintellectualization to "Science Inside"

The "skintellectualization" of Beauty has emerged as a significant trend in 2020, propelled by Gen Z. 

Empowered by digital tools, these consumers are armed with in-depth Beauty knowledge and are now "ingredient wizards", even more attentive to INCI. Online, they are building a digital Beauty library, thanks to all the knowledge passed on forums, Reddit, Youtube, and social media.

@Skincare By Hyram

@Skincare By Hyram

Simultaneously, a new generation of influencers such as skincare guru @Hyram in the US or @Secret de Peau in France, deciphers every product. Ready to make the next leap, ingredient-focused brand Inkey List drives the trend with a pedagogical approach to imperfections, specific protocols, and a radical education of consumers.

While recent years' fascination for mystical wellness was key, led by gurus such as Gwyneth Paltrow, we now see a renewed quest for scientific legitimacy. 2020 was the year of the emergence of scientific expert brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm. Her website relaunch in September 2020 focused on more educational features, propelling the views to  + 400%, according to Glossy.Co, Dr. Barbara Sturm's success embodies this new quest for science reinforcement – calling for experts, doctors, PHD with solid backgrounds and claims backed with scientific facts. 

4.      From Sustainability to Eco Celebration

 The recent sanitary crisis led to an acceleration of the expectation of consumers for purpose-driven and sustainable solutions. Mc Kinsey mentions "sustainability first”, while 57% of consumers in Germany and the UK declared, "they had made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact."

2020 was a significant year in sustainability stand up from brands in all markets. From zero-waste dining restaurants, zero-waste design, second-hand fashion or trashion (fashion with trash), innovation with eco-friendly solutions have accelerated, pushing brands to rethink packaging, product-delivery system, and delivery. New refills solutions (ex Unilever, Clarins Eco-Bar, Shiseido) have propelled the concept of zero waste beyond Indie. In the USA, Clean retailer Credo has sped up their Clean 2.O philosophy prioritizing sustainability by announcing that in 2023 they will banish single-use packaging, from single-use masks to testing wands in store.  Same for Selfridges in the UK, progressing in reducing its "plastic footprint" banning wipes to plastic-based glitter. All-over bold moves in the context of a sanitary crisis.

5.      From Lockdown Beauty to Unleashing Freedom 

 2020 lockdown transformed homes into safe life-spaces and wellness sanctuaries. 

This "home-hubbing" behavior created new needs, like self-care, intimate skincare, or the quest for minimalism. Lockdown was also an opportunity to self-experiment. Makeup became a powerful tool to fight boredom and fuel personal creativity. From maximalist nudes to extreme color payoffs, "lockdown looks", we witnessed the rise of highly creative looks shared on social media. Some 46% of women and 41% of men said they've spent more time on social media during the pandemic (source: Business.com). Instagram story, Tik Tok, and Twitch thus became the perfect platforms to boost self-expression, fight boredom, and seek inspiration. These platforms privilege movement, fun, freedom, far away from the lavish looks of Instagram and the hybridization of the virtual and real world.

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Shining example: the collaboration Travis Scott x Byredo gave birth to the Space Rage perfume, which encapsulates the essence of space to fly from home. The virtual gathering also increased to connect meaningfully, express creativity, and feel alive. Beauty brands surfed the trend: Morphe collaborated with the d'Amelio sisters on TikTok, and ELF created ASMR-like videos for their new Mint Collection. New into cosmetics market, we also explore the impact of Twitch in Makeup.


The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, Consulting and Forecasting Agency, specialist of the Beauty world, just launched its latest Inspiration Makeup USA trend book. Interested? Feel free to contact us !

ECO-TRANSMISSION - WHEN SUSTAINABILITY MEETS CULTURAL PRIDE IN South Korea

SS20 Re:code

SS20 Re:code

Since the renewal of the country in the ’60s, South Korean is known for its fast development and constant technologic innovation. In the context of a hyper-digitalization and a strong pressure for efficiency, consumers seek more authenticity and respect in their daily life.

They are increasing looking to move at a slower pace and are looking to create harmony between culture and the planet. New cultural reappropriation is on the rise, especially amongst younger consumers and in the design and fashion arena. 

CULTURAL GATHERING AROUND AUTHENTIC SPACES

In design, art, retail, and architecture, a strong retro trend (Newtro) emerges, an echo to the consumer quest for more authenticity, slowness, and realness. Among the younger generation rises a sense of transmission with the past to anchor a sense of belonging to the Korean culture. We witness the rise of socials salons where people meet to discuss culture and a rise of regenerating spaces rather than the creation of new buildings. 

amore Songsu - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation/@cosmeticseeds

amore Songsu - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation/@cosmeticseeds

In October, Amore Pacific opened a new space, Amore Seongsu, dedicated to the discovery of their products, products can only be bought online. Presented as a "Healing Space", this new gallery sits in a former car repair shop in the up-and-coming area of Seongsu-dong. 

SLOW CONSUMPTION AND ZERO WASTE

Seoul, like all megacities in the world, is housing new zero waste stores to answer consumer’s increasing demand for more sustainable solutions. In the Seongsu area, called the Brooklyn of Seoul, healthy and sustainable stores pop up all around the neighborhood. Artists are opening ateliers, concept stores, and cafes that reflect a need for slow consumption. 

Source: Picer Korea

Source: Picer Korea

Alongside with this more cautious consumption is the rise of zero-waste initiatives. In 2018, a zero-waste global organization created "Wasteupso" in Seoul, a web store promoting a better way to use our daily product. It aims to become a brick and mortar sustainable place. Another, Picker Korea, opened in Seongsu a zero-waste shop and cafe also selling zero water shampoos like Plein de Vie. 

SUSTAINABLE LEADING 

Today, waste is one of the biggest problems for fashion and beauty. From creation to packaging, all the supply chain is coming up with solutions to change their impact on the world. To change the mentality, new initiatives take place in Korea, particularly in Seoul. 

Back in 2017, Seoul Upcycling Plaza was installed in Seongdong-guto to raise awareness on upcycling solutions, with conferences providing tangible ideas for the day-to-day behavior. For its second anniversary, the Seoul Upcycling Festival included various lectures, forums, and visitor-friendly programs. 

Recode Nodeul island space.jpg

RE:code, the pioneer of sustainable fashion in Korea, took it a step further. For the SS20 fashion show, the brand welcomes guests to the showroom to discuss its approach to upcycling. As for the past collection, Kolon Industries (owner of Re:code), creates brand new designs with waste from unsold apparel. "Everything is crafted into something new", claims the brand. Additionally, RE:code employs North Korean asylum seekers, adding to their environment benefit a holistic approach to production.  

ECO-TRANSMISSION is a trend from Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest What's Up Korea trend reports, Makeup & Skincare. If you wish to order the upcoming report, contact the agency for more information.

TikTok - The Rising Star Of Social Beauty

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What is happening on social media tells a lot about our society and the way people communicate. Just as society and its beauty standards constantly evolve, so too do the trends in social media continue to change. During the COVID crisis, social media engagement increased by 61%, and messaging across Facebook, Instagram and WhatsApp expanded by 40%+ among people ages 35 years and under (source: study on 25,000 consumers across 30 markets by Kantar).

The latest phenomenon: the video app TikTok, from the Chinese company Bytedance. With 40% of its users between 16 and 25 years old, it is also one of the most addictive social media plateforms as 90% of those users go on the app more than once daily (Source: Forbes).

Created in September 2016, this platform has now expanded its usage beyond Gen Z and reached 2 billion downloads, making it the most downloaded app in March 20202.

 
Source: Sensortower.com

Source: Sensortower.com

 

Why is TikTok Hot?
TikTok is an interactive world of videos, with strong creative content that lets users connect with friends and admirers through likes, comments and hashtags. Compared to other social media, TikTok is about real-life authenticity, which proposes exhilarating challenges. It is crossing age and social boundaries as a way to express one’s true individuality. While much of the content uploaded to Instagram and YouTube is polished to perfection, TikTok — and its users — embrace silliness and fun with high expectation for serious value of some kind.

TikTok - Escape, Bonding and More

During the health crisis, TikTok provided an entertaining escape in times of anxiety as a way to connect with others in a hedonistic way. Just like Zoom, this is one of the platforms that have seen an acceleration in times when people missed social interaction the most. While a lot of individuals use the platforms for entertainment, the channel also provides a source for information and a way to take a voice in these difficult times. The World Health Organization (WHO) debuted on TikTok in February with a video on "How to Protect Yourself from the Coronavirus". The organization captures 2,2 million followers and 7,5 million likes.

 
 

TikTok - The New Influencer Playground.

TikTok is a new space for beauty conversation, with a high level of engagement. According to Talking Influencer, on TikTok, anyone can be an influencer. “Their algorithm gives every content creator the potential to go viral, whether they have 50 followers or 500,000 followers". This makes it one of the most accessible platforms for influencer marketing. The numbers skyrocketed,  like Abby Roberts (@abburartistery) with 327 million likes and 8,4 million followers. Power influencers now add this social media channel to their communication portfolio (like @KylieJenner with 79 million likes and 11 million followers.

TikTok - The Challenge Signature

The lockdown was also a driver for beauty conversation on social media and more importantly on TikTok. Through the challenges, people have created exciting experiments of beauty transformation. The latest craze: #tinyfacechallenge which surpassed 7 million views. In a period when people need to wear mask, people transform their features and create noses and lips on the upper part of their faces. It is also an interesting way to make fun of the new normal of wearing masks and to escape from the pressure of these difficult times.

 
tiktok challenge.jpeg
 

TikTok - The New Tone of Beauty and Wellness Brands

Beauty brands have initiated their presence in this new arena, but still need to tailor messaging, their tone, specific to this social network. Brands such as ELF and Too Faced have actively created challenges.

Interesting initiatives have built around #ASMR, Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response, or ASMR, defined as content that evokes “light and pleasurable waves of relaxation in the head, neck, spine and throughout the rest of the body.” Brands including Huda Beauty, Sephora, Milk Makeup, ColourPop, Tarte Cosmetics, and Glow Recipe have posted TikTok videos tagged as #ASMR since March. In total, 22.7 billion views around this hashtag.

 
 
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In a nutshell, the landscape of beauty continues to evolve and some of the new social interactions initiated during lockdown, are certainly here to stay. This rising star in the social media arena reflects the changes taking place in beauty and the amazing influence of GenZ in the future of beauty.

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we source our inspiration from the various platforms that are reshaping beauty. To get more insights, ask us for our TikTok White paper.

Meet the Maker - Emmanuel Rey - The Yoga Sensei Behind Yuni Skincare

Emmanuel Rey - Co-Founder of Yuni Skincare

Emmanuel Rey - Co-Founder of Yuni Skincare

With the rise of Wellness, the face of beauty is morphing, and some indie brands have realized the importance of adapting the products to a change in consumer habits and the rise of more conscious consumption. Since the  launch of the brand back in 2015, we spotted Yuni Skincare a line of healthy, natural skincare and body products that save time, restore health, and relieve stress. Created by a couple of natural beauty pioneers and yoga teachers, Emmanuel Rey and Suzanne Dawson, the brand was one of the first offering a holistic vision of beauty, back when athleisure was booming in fashion, as well as indie brands in beauty. Our first encounter with the brand was in a Yoga space and since then, the brand has rolled out in major retailers, from clean retailers (Credo, The Detox Market) to retailers featuring clean retail brands, such as Target or Ulta.  In February, Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation had the pleasure to meet Emmanuel Rey, Co-founder of Yuni Skincare. A discussion that turned into an e-conversation during the confinement, a time of difficulty for all entrepreneurs. But also, a time of generosity as the company decided to send Yuni products to Four hospitals in New-York, collaborating to the effort and bringing comfort to those helping others.  

Namasté 🙏🏻Emmanuel for taking some of your precious time to answer our questions and for sharing your experience.

Leila: Yuni is quite a unique brand inspired by Yoga practices and a pioneer in clean beauty. What was your inspiration and how did you come up with this unique project?

Emmanuel: My partner Suzanne and I have worked in cosmetics for over 25 years, including 10 years at Aveda (Estee Lauder Companies) where she was Senior Vice President of Marketing and I was General Manager of North America. (ndlr: Aveda was one of the first companies responsible and using plant-based ingredients for beauty in the USA). When we left the corporate world in 2012, we decided to take a trip around the world and ended up becoming Ashtanga Yoga teachers in Greece. Beyond the unique experience of this moment, we realized the rise of athleisure brands in fashion, clothing adapted to active lifestyle such as Lululemon, Sweaty Betty, Lorna Jane, or Athleta.  But there was nothing in beauty. Our fellow students told us that they could not find brands that match their values and that understand their lifestyle. We ran in-depth studies and realized that active people like us were looking for natural and respectful solutions to save time, restore health and relieve stress. We started to think of solutions for these needs and this is how we created YUNI Beauty.

active people like us were looking for natural and respectful solutions to save time, restore health and relieve stress.
— Emmanuel Rey

L: A lot of Indie Beauty brands have immerged on the West Coast, especially in recent years. As a French native, living in the USA, why is California the new “gold mine” of beauty?

E: In the case of beauty and wellness, California has a lot of advantages. First of all, Californians are by nature interested in everything related to body and mind. It is a country in itself (38 million inhabitants) with a great diversity and a strong purchasing power. In addition, it is definitely a “trend-setter” for North America and sometimes for the world, especially in terms of consumption. Finally, it is a breeding ground for micro-enterprises and investors. It is also a region with a very pleasant quality of life and beautiful nature.

L: Mindfulness is becoming a major wave, all around the world. Anxiety has been growing as a key issue for urban consumers and with the recent covid crisis, brands that answer the need for recovery, mindfulness, will certainly receive positive consumer response. What are the most innovative products in your lines? How do you get your inspiration from?

 
YUNI_Sleepy Beauty_0256_rd1.jpg
 

E: We draw our inspiration from our own needs of tomorrow and from what we think are the questions without real answers. For us, lack of idea is never the problem. For YUNI, the concept of “Mindfulness' applies not only to create products which address the body and the mind, but also in the way we conceive them (natural ingredients, sustainable development), manufacture them ( factories with solar or wind energy, responsible packaging) and distribute them (from prestige to masstige, putting well-being within everyone's reach). For us "mindfulness" is a way of being fully aware of our actions. We strive to bring systematic innovation to all our products (what would be the reason otherwise?). For example, we see a real need for better quality sleep. In the United States, people sleep an average of 6 to 7 hours, often poorly, and often wake up. This is the reason we created several sleep products based on aromatherapy (Pillow Spray), the addition of recognized ingredients (Ashwaganda root, Melatonin…) in body products (Bedtime body essence) or the blend of plant-based ingredients (Passionflower, Gaba, L-tryptophan…) in an oral spray (Slumber oral spray) to use just before going to bed.

For us “mindfulness” is a way of being fully aware of our actions.
— Emmanuel Rey

L: When we met in LA, you mentioned how your day to day work and organization being flexible, working mostly from home. Far away from the traditional “office” and hierarchical companies of the past. Today, with the Covid Crisis, a lot of people are forced to work from their homes. Do you believe this is the model for the future?

E: In our case, it was due to severall factors: management of fixed costs during the launch phase, distances and chronic traffic jams in Los Angeles, access to talent. The time spent driving a car in Los Angeles is very unproductive and a source of stress. Many people are declared as self-employed, so we  have access to experienced people on an ad hoc or part-time basis. This type of staff does not require close management or direct training. We have now powerful communication tools available that allow this kind of approach. It takes a bit of practice, especially to establish a real human relationship, but I found this system quite ideal. I did not know that this would allow us to function without a hitch during this period of confinement.

L: We all hope that the post-confinement phase will happen soon but today, this is the new normality for a lot of people in the world. What would be the top  products from YUNI you would recommend and why?

E: In this very particular period, it seems to me that several YUNI products are relevant: Shower sheets or Flash Bath No Rinse for cleanliness, Count to Zen for restoring moisture loss due to frequent and was, My OM world to help relax, refresh and reset, Pocket Savasana for staying calm and meditate, Sleepy Beauty a Bedtime body essence to sleep well.

I would add the Sleepy Beauty Bakuchiol + biotic serum that we just launched. This serum brings real well-being to the skin and in these tough times, it is something that we all really need it.

 
yuni--pillow-spray-hero.jpg
 

To dive into YUNI’s world of beauty, have a look at their Instagram and visit www.Yunibeauty.com

Want more of the scoop on the clean beauty scene? Take a look at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s special dossier on clean beauty within its latest USA makeup inspiration report and contact the agency for more information.

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THE NEW FACE OF GREEN BEAUTY IN BRAZIL

Simple Organic - courtesy of the brand

Simple Organic - courtesy of the brand

The consumption of natural, vegan and sustainable cosmetics continues to grow around the world, and same goes for Brazil, one of the biggest beauty market out there, as well as one of the richest country in Biodiversity. Despite the country's current economic recession, the beauty market grew about 10% in 2019, according to the company Sebrae, with numbers that surpass US$ 30 billion dollars. Aware of the global environmental crisis, and knowing that the devastation of Amazonian Forest has a big impact on global warming, the majority of Brazilians are and always have been more concerned of sustainable practices. Dive into the latest Brazilian trends and inspiring brands to follow.

BRAZIL: BUT FIRST, NUMBERS

According to data from the company Nielsen, 42% of Brazilian consumers changed somehow their consumption habits to reduce their impact on the environment, while 30% of interviewed pay attention to the ingredients and components of products.

Awareness among consumption is also significant: 58% do not buy products from companies that perform test on animal, anda glowing 65% do not buy from companies associated with unethical labor practices. 

According to the UEBT Barometer, 91% of Brazilians say it is important for them to contribute personally to preserving biodiversity and they expect companies to inform them on their concrete actions towards biodiversity preservation (88%). They are also increasingly interested in transparency and authenticity.

FROM CRISTAL MUNIZ TO MARTHA PEDALINO, THE FACES OF ZERO-WASTE INFLUENCE

In 2014, influencer Cristal Muniz decided to radically change her consumption habits and stop producing garbage. She created Uma Vida Sem Lixo (‘a life without trash’), a blog-diary to report her transition and spread dozens of recipes to swap and clean products and/or cosmetics. Today, what started as a diary is now a media with over 3 million visits, and Cristal has released a book and two ebooks.

And she is not the only zero-waste source of inspiration for Brazilians. It was on a trip to China that designer Martha Pedalino (@ajuntalocal) approached the culture of “Dao” - a Chinese expression for “tea ceremony” - and developed a passion for the centuries-old tradition of producing and consuming plants for medicinal use. Returning to Brazil, Martha started selling organic teas and body mists, leading to the explosion of ther own brand that expanded to cosmetics, a massively followed online presence and natural skincare workshops.

BRAZILIAN NATURAL DISRUPTION : 7 MUST FOLLOW

  • TERRAL - BRAZILNESS SENSORIALITY

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

The brand was created from the desire to use clean, natural, organic and nutritious products for the body. The scents are all made from pure essential oils, and preservatives used are pure and from nature, such as propolis, rosemary oil, tea tree oil. TERRAL offers a true sensory experience through its balms and body creams. Star product: the paste deodorant that, in addition to retain moisture, soothes inflamed skin.

Website / Instagram: @terralnatural

  • BAIMS - BIODIVERSITY HEROE

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

BAIMS is committed to a more fair and ethical world and to contribute to the maintenance of biodiversity on our planet. All products are organic, vegan, cruelty free, and the packaging, made with bamboo, is 100% recyclable. It is the first brand to use BBA ™ - BioBehenic Active, an active derivative of Pentaclethra Macroloba (Pracaxi) that has natural brigthening properties.

Highlights: Baims lipsticks, highly moisturizing yet on the “dirty nudes” side with edgy, discreet colors even for those who like dark tones.

Website / Instagram: @baimsnaturalmakeup

  • ALMANATI - RECYCLING BEAUTY

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

Also 100% natural, organic and cruelty-free. Almanati's packaging are either made of paper or produced from a derivative of sugar cane, both 100% recyclable. In addition, it contains raw materials from biodynamic agriculture, which respects the relationship between the living beings present in agricultural practice.

One of its biggest key difference: waterless formulas, substituted by aloe vera extract, such as the facial moisturizing cream, the facial cream gel, the moisturizing man facial cream and the hydrating body lotion.

Website / Instagram: @almanatibr

  • SIMPLE ORGANIC - PLANT BASED EXPERT

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

When founder Patricia Lima became a mother, she realized that she couldn’t use several products. She then founded Simple Organic, aiming to democratize natural beauty through organic and vegan products.

Must try: The Eye Balm, formulated with hyaluronic acid, sunflower oil and essential oils of lavender and chamomile.

Website / Instagram: @simpleorganic

  • BIOART - BIODEGRADABLE GENTLENESS

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

After having several allergies due to toxic cosmetics, Soraia Zonta mixed her own concerns with Nature’s treasures and created BioArt. Since 2010, the brand develop safe makeup with natural and organic assets. Another key concern of the brand: having formulations that produce waste able to return pure to nature, without polluting neither water nor soil.

Highlight: the bio-nourishing blush, formulated with a mix of different clays and tapioca as a powerful pigment. Can be used as a shadow or on the lips, if mixed with gloss.

Website / Instagram: @bioart

courtesy of the brand

courtesy of the brand

  • CARE Natural Beauty

Carrying the slogan of slow beauty - cosmetics that do not harm the environment, the company was launched in 2018, with products free of toxins, chemical components and heavy metals. In addition, they are vegan and cruelty-free. Star product: Care Natural Beauty's Multifunctional Blush, a cream-in-powder that melts when meeting skin. Enriched with natural vitamin E, grape seed oil, coconut oil and cupuaНu butter.

Website / Instagram: @carenaturalbeauty

As expert in trends, our agency has explored the worldwide expression of the Clean and Natural Beauty movement. Thanks to our Brazilian team member, Luisa, we are now exploring the new natural disruption happening in Brazil.

Contact us for more information.

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SKIN-ICONE VALLEY: WHEN SKIN MEETS TECH

Photo Credits: @ P&G Opté

Photo Credits: @ P&G Opté

In 2020, tech is evolving. Now going hand in hand with wellness, innovations in the beauty category are propelled by technology. Data-driven tools, sex-tech, disruptive apps, IoT , AR, AI... From new devices presented at tech conferences to in-store intelligent tools, the tech revolution is changing the skin game. Dive in the new territories of Radical Reinvention.

Female Wellness on the rise

During the last Las Vegas CES conference, the best of innovations were introduced to tech-lovers. What was even more surprising was how tech had deeply been infused with wellness. Sex-tech only is a booming market, worth $32 billion in 2019 according to a recent study by the market research firm Technavio. During the CES, smart-vibrator company Lioness was a finalist for CES’ Last Gadget Standing award, thanks to its groundbreaking tools. Lioness’s smart vibrators use data to improve orgasms by tracking tension, temperature and pressure and syncing it to an app. Moreover, sexual wellness is increasingly associated with self-care, and even, with skin glow! Just like the effect of CBD, endorphins (Nature’s happiness) are expected to boost inner glow.

NASA-LIKE HOME THERAPIES

Data-driven approach of Beauty have also upgraded both Beauty services and products, as consumers can now self-measure their own face and body through connected objects. Innovative at-home options are rolling out at a rapid rate, like the new Genius Mask by Talika, based on NASA research, the first multifunction mask combining light therapy and electrostimulation, with a various choice of beauty care programmes (lifting, firming, toning etc.)

Source: sohu.com

Source: sohu.com

Neutrogena Skin360TM and SkinScanner (Powered by FitSkin) is going further with a tool that directly empowers the Beauty user thanks to deep learning. This recent model is an upgrade of the model presented at the CES2019 and is able to analyze more than 100,000 skin pixels and deciphers the composition of skin with over 2,000 facial attributes. The app, now available on AppStore and Google Play helps track skin's progress everyday. The more the merrier: the more skin-data the tool will get, the more the app will be fueled, and be able to formulate made-to-measure recommendations.

 
Source: Neutrogena

Source: Neutrogena

 

Deep learning can also be adapted to smart and hyper-customized makeup. P&G Opte Precision System presented at the CES2020 (upgraded version) is a portable inkjet to achieve flawless complexion. The Opte wand scans the skin with an enhanced digital camera that captures 200 frames per second and instantly analyzes each image using a proprietary algorithm to detect tonal imperfections, not visible to the human eye. Than the custom thermal inkjet printer deposites picolitre droplets of Spot Optimizing Serum on target areas until there is a perfect color match with the surrounding skin tone.

 
P&G Opte Precision System - Source: P&G Press Release

P&G Opte Precision System - Source: P&G Press Release

 


MORPHING BEAUTY SERVICES

Paradoxically, digital technologies have made in-store experience more and more important. Especially for Gen Zers who thrives on pop-ups and new spaces. Retailer are now using Augmented Reality to enhance this experience, with AR mirror and 3D tools dedicated to beauty lovers.

 
Source: The Light Salon - Facebook

Source: The Light Salon - Facebook

 

In the area of beauty services, we are witnessing the arrival of Light Salon services, home of LED technologies. At Harvey Nichols London or in several Nordstrom in the U.S., the Light Salon uses LED technologies and promises a “non-invasive, pain-free solution for the prevention and repair of ageing or damaged skin”. The company launched an at-home LED Mask Boost, made of soft silicone, to provide the necessary dose of light therapy at home (also proposed for the decolletage). At the Nordstrom beauty service area, the Light Salon space carry a special edition of the Nuori skincare line, so that tech can be complimented by a clean beauty regimen.

“Technology is infusing the skincare and wellness category. New efficient alternatives are now servicing an ever more savvy consumer. Brands need to rethink their innovation process in the light of these new tools, from product innovation, to services and in-store experience. Consumer-centric technologies will certainly change the landscape of beauty during this new decade” comments Leila Rochet, Founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Learn more on how skin meets technology in the latest trend report Radical Reinvention - Skincare Edition, created by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. If you wish to know more about this trend or the full report, feel free to contact the agency.









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FEMALE EMPOWERMENT & INCLUSIVITY RISE IN SOUTH KOREA

Credits: Harper’s Bazaar Korea, April 2019

Credits: Harper’s Bazaar Korea, April 2019

2020 will mark a continued disruption for Korea. Korean women are pushing back against beauty standards and disrupting the traditional model of femininity. An unprecedented movement of feminism and body positivity in the country with the highest number of cosmetic procedures per capita worldwide…

If Korea is one of the most innovative hub of the beauty market, it’s no secret that the K-society is still highly conservative. But this paradox is less and less accurate in 2020. For the past few month, liberating movements are rising, fueled by a quest for freedom that has shaken up the representation of beauty and liberated the routines.

“ESCAPE THE CORSET”, “SKIP CARE” : A CALL FOR FREEDOM

As seen in our previous What’s Up Korea 2019, the "Escape the Corset" movement blown up on social and traditional media. Former beauty blogger, Cha Ji-won, decided to throw away her makeup and start a feminist YouTube channel (375k followers). On TV, the famous female news presenter Lim Hyeon-ju, sparked sensation by wearing glasses on air, and the cosmetic brand Missha featured a model with a glamour short hair. Korean women want to break free from the high Korean beauty standard, which used to be one of the a guarantee of success in the Korean society.

Needless to say that in the new social context, a 10-step beauty regimen is perceived as a form of labor. One that only women are expected to perform, and for which they are in no way compensated - apart from finding a "good husband". According to The Guardian, a third of young women in Korea have undergone plastic surgery. To that purpose, the "skipcare" movement aims to reduce the number of steps of K-Beauty routines. The movement is mainly led by Jullai, with hybrid products like the Bounce Essence Oil Toner which both cleanses and hydrates. "The focus was on reducing the number of steps, liberating women and their skin from timely skincare routines" says CK, Jullai’s founder.

LOV YOU BOD! BODY POSITIVITY IS KOREAN

Moreover, body-positivity coming from the US went strong for the very first time in Korea. Beauty activist, Jiwon Park (@3xl_joy), started an Instagram account dedicated to her plus-size body. With over 7.3M views, the "I am not pretty" YouTube video by Beauty blogger, Lina Bae, was one of the hottest trends. In the video, she shows herself putting on makeup then removing it, while sharing some hateful comments she received like "You are a pig" or "You should get eye surgery". She concludes: "I am not pretty but that’s okay. Don’t compare yourself to social media. You are special the way you are." "Your body is full of wonderful things" , "love your body" claims the very first Korean body positive makeup brand, LovBod, with products like the Bum Bum Mask for buttock definition.

Credits: Lovbod

Credits: Lovbod

KOREAN INCLUSIVITY : IS THIS THE END OF THE FAIR WHITE SKIN?

More and more voices are finding expression through the Korean beauty industry. In our previous article, we deciphered the boom of a more fluid male Beauty. Inclusivity-wise, a few black Korean models make an entrance, like influencer Han Hyun-min, or Joel Roberts, the first African American model to join top Korean modeling agency YG KPlus. As darker skin tones are part of neo-archetypes we observes on the media, beauty brands now dive into the trend with new products targeted for inclusive tones. 

Credits: influencer & model Han Hyun-min

Credits: influencer & model Han Hyun-min

This year, two campaigns played the inclusivity game: Espoir, for their new silk-fit foundation Colorful Nude (the campaign includes dark-toned models, as well as male and bi-racial models), and Pony Effect with the new Effect Stay Matte Lip Color.

Espoir / Courtesy of the brand

Espoir / Courtesy of the brand

And today? After this first disruption, Korean beauty market is merging to more innovative fem-powered action, and inclusive trends are blooming. Want to find out more about thoses codes? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency just created a new What’s Up report book dedicated to the Seoul Hub. Contact us for more information.






OUR 3 FAVORITE BRANDS FROM THE INDIE BEAUTY EXPO IN LONDON

Credits: Unsplash / Emiliano Vittoriosi

Credits: Unsplash / Emiliano Vittoriosi

When it comes to innovations, the Indie Beauty Expo is always an inspiration. Indie Brands have been shaking the beauty markets during the last decade, and 2020 will certainly see new interesting brands blooming. We spotted 3 brands, at the latest IBE London event, that embody tomorrow’s trends.

For its second edition, the London Indie Beauty Expo made quite the buzz. According to the organization, the event saw a 20% increase in exhibiting brands, confirming that the indie movement is still roaring.

From a rising Male Beauty to the celebration of Sexual Wellness, we had the pleasure to harness the next Beauty trends and meet the most exciting entrepreneurs of 2019. In this sea of innovations, three brands stood out, as they truly capture where the market is heading. Read more- and get inspired!

•Baûbo - French, sex-positive Vulva Care, what else ?

“I put The Balm right after sex, and it immediately soothed me” comments Carlotta, 28, on the brand’s website. Is this the future of skincare reviews? Taboo-free, open-minded conversations celebrating the female form in all its glory. Exit puritanism! Paris-based Baûbo leads the way, with 3 organic, Made in France and B-corp certified balms. One is a tonifying formula for post-partum bodies, another for universal care (including babies), and the third to “daily hydrate, soothe and soften the vulva, at the slightest discomfort.”

❤️: the taboo-free feminist tone, in line with a new sex-positive culture of consent coming from the US. Special mention to the “eco-aware” packaging, the first 90% recycled glass cosmetic container in the world, with Braille stickers.

 
Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

 

🏠 : Baûbo (📸insta : @bauboparis)

•Skin Sapiens - When “skincare” rhymes with “activism“

As its name suggests, Skin Sapiens is for skin that knows what’s right. Crowdfunded and launched in December, the UK brand aims for total transparency, in line with the Clean Beauty wave. The 6 products (3 for babies and 3 for grown-ups) are made from ingredients exclusively purchased from audited farms, in packs created from the “highest possible recycled content”.

❤️: the very inspiring strong, activist semantics, that embody 2019’s new narratives. “Let’s do it”, “welcome to a new age in skincare”, “we’re on a mission”, “let’s cut out nonsense”, “nothing hidden / nothing wasteful / nothing oversold”. Also, the brand alerts that “the bottles and tubes may be slightly imperfect, as they are made using repurposed plastic bottles sourced in the UK.” The beauty of imperfection.

🏠 : Skin Sapiens (📸insta : @skinsapiens)

 
Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

 

•Maiiro: a sustainable La Mer

Can an anti-plastic brand be hyper-glamorous? With Maiiro, it could very much be the case. The Guernsey-based brand beautifully mixes locally-sourced marine botanicals with sustainable packs. At the core of all products, the “Kelpogen5”, a signature complex made in-house of five seaweed extracts (astaxanthin, oarweed, bladderwrack, wakame and thongweed) for their powerful antioxidant properties. All organic, and vegan, of course.

❤️: an indie sustainable version of La Mer, in sophisticated 100% recyclable and 41% biodegradable packs.

🏠 : Maiiro

 
Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

 

Did you like this article ? Contact us to know more about the current Indie Beauty !

Previous articles on Indie Brands in the blog: here

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THE RISE OF THE INDIE FRENCH TOUCH - OUR 3 FAVORITES FROM THE MADE IN FRANCE EXHIBITION

Photo credits: Mahkeo

Photo credits: Mahkeo

Who said “Indie” only came from the US? French Beauty brands are blooming with a renewed creativity, disrupting the indie game with the French savoir-faire. Vive la Révolution!

American indie brands have deeply changed the beauty game. Viral, small, quick, disruptive, they constantly challenge us and keep us on our toes. But this indie wave goes way beyond the US frontiers, sparking a global trend that is now cascading on Europe.

In France, new small artisan brands are bubbling, disrupting the indie game through the lenses of French codes. A fascinating wave that we call Indie French Touch, where Beauty rhymes with artisan, sustainability and, of course, effortless chic.

During the 8th edition of the Made in France Exhibition, we had to pleasure to meet with the most inspiring entrepreneurs, and discovered 3 French brands that perfectly embody the trend.

•L’Accent - Chestnuts from the French Cévennes and “dermo-maquilage”

As if transforming chestnuts into foundation wasn’t enough of a miracle, new indie brand L’Accent goes one step further and invents the French word “dermo-maquilage” to express the perfect mix between skincare and makeup. Founded by two cosmetics experts, L’Accent hand picks chestnuts and grind them into a super-fine, tinted, moisturizing powder, naturally enriched with antioxidants and polyphenols. The very first Beauty chestnut spread.

❤️: "from tree to skin" : a beautiful idea that celebrates the French notion of “terroir”, with a strong innovative process (chestnut powder).

🏠 L’Accent (📸insta : @laccentcosmetics)

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

•Les Simples de Charlotte (“Charlotte’s Simples”) - When Witchy French Apothecary meets Luxury

We love the quote “simplicity is complexity resolved” - and this beautiful brand might just perfectly embodies it. Master herbalist Charlotte chose the word “simple” for its philosophy, deeply rooted in nature and authenticity (“simples” were also the name to call medicinal herbs back in the Middle Ages). Everyday, this modern druid hand-picks herbs and transform them into “simple” potions (hydrolats, essential oils, macerated extracts slowly heated by the sun…) to create “minimalistic and organic” cosmetics.


❤️: The very notion of artisan skincare. We get back to an antique knowledge of French apothecary in a preserved Nature, and enjoy a land where time stand still.

🏠Les Simples de Charlotte (📸insta : @lessimplesdecharlotte)

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

•Môme care - (Finally) Kids friendly skincare

Môme (in French,“offspring”) first started off in the US, the very land of Clean Beauty, and is just starting to take off in France. The brand is 100% Made in France and 100% safe, with skincare specially targeted for the little ones. After a first refillable deodorant, Môme launched its first everything skincare product, “Crème Indispensable”, that comes in 3 different sizes : “S” (5 to 10 year old) to “L” (15 and +). And - of course - it’s all blue, white and red.

❤️: the cutest version of Clean Beauty à la Française, very 2019.

🏠Momecare (📸insta : @momecareinc)

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Did you like this article ? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency created a trend-report dedicated to the Indie French Touch. Contact us for more information.

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HOW EUPHORIA IS REVEALING THE NEXT STEPS IN MAKEUP…AND GEN Z’S CORE INSIGHTS

Credits: courtesy of HBO

Credits: courtesy of HBO

Since its release in June, the HBO series is the biggest phenomenon in Beauty, cascading from Instagram to the Fashion Week. What key learnings do we draw from the teen fiction?

With over 30 000 mentions, the hashtag #euphoriamakeup is one of the hottest trend on the Gram in 2019. Though it’s not the first time makeup looks are inspired from a work of fiction, Euphoria is undeniably changing the game. 

A 360° BEAUTY PHENOMENON 

In only eight episodes, the HBO teen series has sparked a worldwide trend, inspiring millions of Gen Zers, and cascading on the Fashion Week in the blink of an eye. From Helmut Lang’s strokes of neon to Eckhaus Latta’s fantasy lids, we dare say designers were (unconsciously?) inspired by Euphoria.

Igor Saringer, a 22-year-old from Brazil, went one step further and created a special Euphoria Instagram filter, with 10 iconic looks from the show, such as the “white clouds”, the neon green or the yellow eye shadow with white eyeliner accent. Most of these looks are deeply rooted in current trends: unconventional and edgy lids, with bright neons or geometrical drawings, paired with glowy, “no makeup makeup” complexions. 

The name behind this artwork: Doniella Davy, who also worked on Oscar-winning Moonlight, a beautiful movie depicting the journey of a young gay black little boy in Atlanta. Needless to say the makeup artist (@donni.davy) knows a thing or two about teenagers. And it might just be why Euphoria is touching the world of Beauty on so many levels.

The best Euphoria looks recreated by makeup artists and influencers (extract from our Instabook. Credits: @jazzmynejay @celine_bernaerts @olgadann)

The best Euphoria looks recreated by makeup artists and influencers (extract from our Instabook. Credits: @jazzmynejay @celine_bernaerts @olgadann)

EMOTIONS IN MOTION: WHAT MAKEUP REALLY MEANS TO GEN Z

Is reality inspiring Euphoria, or is it the other way around?

“Most of my inspiration came from what kids are doing right nowexplains Doniella Davy. " These young people are pushing the boundaries and not living by mainstream archetypes or stereotype” Indeed, Euphoria tries to depict a generation, riding the wave of inclusivity by showing teens of all races and gender, including marginalized populations such as Rue, the main character who is also battling with depression and drug addiction. 

Furthermore, it’s Doniella Davy’s special use of makeup that highlights the most important insight of Gen Z right now.

“I believe these Gen Z kids and artists are coming up with a new language of self-expression through makeup. It’s so brave and bold to me that I really fell in love with what I was seeing on Instagram (…) There's subliminal emotional messages always in all the makeup." 

A phenomenon that we see all through Euphoria: Rue’s glitter tears to express the complexity of her temper, witty yet melancholic by “catching light in different angles using the reflective texture of glitter” so that the tears appear and disappear, or the multi-neon look of Jules to express her “optimistic and playful” side, but paired with a bare face to give it a “less-femme vibes”, expressing her innocence. Makeup here is thus used to signal emotions and paint character’s personalities and development throughout the series. 

“It’s one of the most important trend that we have seen these past few months” explains Leïla Rochet, founder of the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. “For young generations, makeup has become a whole new language, a way to send messages, to let creativity flow, to feel fierce and proud, to celebrate body-positivity.”

An art of painting the surface…That may actually goes skin-deep. Who said Gen Z was shallow? 

 

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency created “Emotions in Motion”, an exclusive US trend-report centered around emotions, along with an “Insta-book”, a digest of the hottest trends on Instagram. Contact us for more information.

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MEET THE MAKER: A COFFEE WITH SOOHYANG, THE HOTTEST K-ENTREPRENEUR OF 2019

Source: instagram

Source: instagram

During our trend-hunting sessions in Seoul, we had the opportunity to meet with the amazing Soohyang Kim, founder of one of the most exciting K-fragrance brand, who is spreading its scented creations all over the world…

It’s hard to miss Soohyang Kim- if not impossible. Apart from being gorgeous, glamorous and sophisticated, the Korean entrepreneur is also highly best-friend material. With the power to draw inspiration from simple pleasures (fashion, iced coffee, vintage music or Netflix), she created Soohyang in 2015, an all-natural scented brand with a signature millennial pink. Because “life is better when you smell nice”. So simple – yet, so relatable. Fun fact: “Soohyang”, in Korean, means “excellent fragrance”. And the brand is excellent indeed: with stores all over the world (Germany, USA, UK, France, Taiwan, Ukraine…), 33 original fragrances and prestigious collaborations (Lululemon, CGV, Barneys New York…), Soohyang has been getting serious heat. Her secret? Being herself. And loving her fans. Meet an inspirational maker.

Leila (our founder) and Soohyang met a few years ago and know enjoy spending time together around a coffee in Seoul, Paris and New York.

Credits: courtesy of the brand

Credits: courtesy of the brand

(Leila) : What would be your definition of luxury ?

(Soohyang) : For me, luxury means time. People think it’s all about money, but people want to buy time. And not only time for themselves, but time as a concept: they buy very nice things that never grow old, many years from now.

(L) : Could you tell us more about your brand Soohyang? How do you see it in the Korean landscape ? 

(S) : My line is more than Asian, it’s a lot of my own character. It’s my personality: simple but stylish! Pure, graphic…It represents my everything: my mother, this country, the women…I just want to prove that Asian can be connected to the world. I was a music promoter before, I worked 8 years for a record company. I love music, all music, old and new, it’s something that makes me very happy. I never grow old if I can listen to music! And the company was so small, I did a lot of things, from 9 to 3 every day! I was working so hard. And then after 8 years, I realized music and perfume were connected. The composer and perfumer both use codes and notes, they create from there. And the result represents who you are: the taste, the smell…So I created my brand in 2013, seven years ago, from this feeling. At that moment in Korea, there wasn’t much indie fragrances, my approach was quite new at the time. People liked that, and the fact that the place was really small and hidden. Now, we are getting bigger, as we are in New York, Hong Kong, London, L.A. in a really cute yellow location, or Paris in a green one.

(L) : What are the future steps for your brand?  

(S) : When I started in Korea, it was very new, so I have a responsibility for the future followers to keep doing good things, and doing things my own way. That’s why it needs to be a slow progression. All I want is to make customers happy, make them proud of me, proud of our products…I think I finally found my way with this brand!

(L): Your brand was selected to be featured in the KBeauty Event at the Carousel at Bloomingdales. You attended few VIP events in New York last week. How did it go?

Yes it is exciting to be in New York and to discuss with people in the city. This is an important step in the brand’s international development. We had the privilege to get an outstanding press and welcome here in the USA: articles in Vogue, Forbes, etc. The perspectives for us are huge and I have tons of ideas to move the brand to the next level.

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency publishes a Korean trend-report twice a year. Contact the agency for more information.

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