Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

 

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022

 

BEAUTY IS BACK - 3 MAKEUP TRENDS TO FOLLOW

 
 

As the post-pandemic reality takes shape and consumer confidence slowly returns in line with the vaccine roll-out, we move forward with energy and optimism. Our latest What’s Up report outlines the bold creativity, energy and positivity with which consumers are facing everything from the return to socialization to the climate crisis. 

According to data from NPD, a third of US consumers plan to spend more this Holiday season, with almost two-thirds of consumers saying they are more comfortable shopping in-store than they were last year.  All signs point towards a rebound for the Beauty industry -  in the first half of 2021, makeup sales were +23% on 2019, and +22% on 2020. This over-arching positivity is evident in all of the core trends we highlighted this season; Beauty is being rebooted to meet the appetite for renewal and rebirth. 

 Our latest What’s Up report features 10 of the most exiting trends to follow to be ahead of the beauty game. Here is a little extract of 3 trends of our book.

#1 BEAUTY RESET

Source : Simihaze

 It’s time to hit the reset button. As we start to put some distance between the present and the pandemic, this is the moment for a Beauty recalibration. Exciting new brands, helmed by next-generation tastemakers, are breaking through with energy while established brands are taking the opportunity to realign their values with the new reality. We look ahead to the launch of Ariana Grande’s hotly tipped beauty line, r.e.m beauty, and check out the new brand Treslúce from creative powerhouse Becky G - a champion of contemporary LatinX culture. Similarly injecting bold expressionism into makeup, DJs, models and twin sisters Simi and Haze Khadra have launched their eponymous beauty line, Simihaze. Meanwhile, Sephora backs the rebirth of Fashion Fair - a 56-year old veteran of the Black beauty scene.

#2 FULL FLUSH

Source : Anna Sui NYFW 2021

What does a post-mask world look like? The transition from masks-on to masks-off is driving the trend for experimental product placement and colour-play, with flushed cheeks and temples signalling health and vitally to the world.  At NYFW, makeup artists at Anna Sui, Collina Strada, and Carolina Herrera applied blush high on the temples and across the eyes, as a contouring product to bring a new focus to alternative features. The message was clear; blushing-up is the new going-out makeup.  And in this experimental new beauty era, cheeks are not the only area on which to place blush. Eyes have taken on an even greater resonance over the past 18 months and now blush is being applied to underscore the power of the gaze. 

#3 JOYDRESSING GLAM

Source : Tom Ford NYFW 2021 & Saint Sintra NYFW 2021

The stage is set for beauty that is all about expressing unadulterated joy; from glitter drizzles to rhinestone-encrusted cat-eyes. Embodied by Tom Fords SS22 collection of glamorous sensuality, where jewelled brights and sequined fabrics were layered for a loose, louche silhouette, this next trend is all about The Glam. Capturing the Gen Z market for Y2K-inflected references, noughties club makeup popped on the NYFW catwalk at Saint Sintra and influenced the MUA for Private Policy. And plenty of brands are now tapping into this post-pandemic party spirit, with the likes of About Face, Iconic London and Danessa Myricks Beauty all dropping products that feature liquid glow, high-pigment glitter and infinite chrome. The party era is upon us.

Emotional Artistry - unleashing the color of FREEDOM

 
Photo by Alejandro Peralta from Pexels

Photo by Alejandro Peralta from Pexels

 

A new tide of optimism is being announced, unleashing freedom of expression through the uprise of artistic looks. The Beauty landscape broadens to new creative levels, propelled by GenZ brands that theatricalize self-expression and prioritize disruptive color looks. To fight boredom in lockdowns or celebrate restrictions lifting, emotional art remains the best way to reconnect with one's creativity. Artistic makeup makes a comeback with bold styles and colorful products. Moreover, with digital technology fully integrated into everyday life, new dimensions are explored in self-expression territories. 

Here is an extract of our latest trend reports revealing the new staging of color and the implication for innovation.

LIMITLESS HUMANOID

Infinity is now the limit of human creativity, as colored liners and ultra-pigmentation redefine makeup art. Fantasy with unique looks and dreamlike experiences prevail on social media – going above and beyond the body territory. During the Byredo makeup collection launch, the brand shared photos where the models have randomly applied different makeup textures all over their faces. Some creative Instagram accounts theatricalize colorful designs on the ears and lips, such as @marthamakeupartist, or showcase tricolor nail cascades at @nailshawty.

Source: Instagram @nailshawty nails art.

Source: Instagram @nailshawty nails art.

For makeup innovations, it creates a multitude of possibilities as consumers focus on self-expression. According to Spate NYC (May 2021), the searches and interest for inner eyeliner have grown +77.4% since last year. It resonates with the growing demand for colored liners: at Haus Laboratories with the Eye-Dentify Gel Pencil Eyeliner; at Freck Beauty with The Alien Eyes Lid Lick, which plays on offbeat semantics; and at Melolops with ultra-pigmented ink. Recently, About Face complemented its Matte Fluide Eye Paint collection with four limited-edition “Daytripper” pastel shades: a gentle lavender, soft aqua, tender green, and a mellow yellow. Inspired by the freedom and artistic expression of the ‘60s and ‘70s, the super-saturated chromatic pastels in the matte powder formula give a significant color impact for limitless looks. 

Source: About Face - Daytripper Matte Fluide Eye Paint

Source: About Face - Daytripper Matte Fluide Eye Paint

MOMA COUTURE

As lockdowns restrictions ease, consumers desire color cosmetics such as lipstick and blush more than ever. According to Spate NYC (May 2021), searches and interest for pink lipsticks have grown +18.9% since last year. Colors remain a vital element to create a self-universe. Suva Beauty Palette with ultra-saturated pigments cultivates this MOMA atmosphere and serves well the colorful ambitions. Suva Beauty re-edits and renames its eyeliner palette Hydra FX Collection of water eyeliner into “We make rainbows jealous” to celebrate Pride Month 2021. Byredo’s Prismic Palette includes a rainbow of 18-eyeshadow shade with high-impact glitter, neon matte, and metallic finish. Ciaté London released the Mascara Smiley in pink, yellow, and green and Lime Crime 51 Volumizing Mascara in green, purple, and blue.

Sources: Model.com and Byredo Prismic Palette // Hilda wearing Suva Beauty Hydra FX Collection

Sources: Model.com and Byredo Prismic Palette // Hilda wearing Suva Beauty Hydra FX Collection

GAMIFIED VICTORY

In the age of tech explosion, some gamers regularly bring out their old consoles and immerse themselves in their childhood adventures. The retro gaming aesthetic has been increasingly present outside gaming platforms with gamified products in the past months. For example, Kaja Beauty released Joystick Brightening Setting Powder, a powder applied with a joystick-shaped brush. Other brands developed experiential products like XX Revolution with Light Up Lip Gloss and Light Up Eyeshadow Palette Light's On that both include light and mirror to be reapplied in the dark. 

Other beauty consumers utilize the new gaming world as an area of futuristic and modern makeup. The lavender color emerges from this trend and recalls the transition to the metaverse. In Beauty, GenZ brand Dragun Beauty used Lavender as a core shade for its product and collaborated with Morphe for a collection inspired by the gaming universe. Digital Lavender will be the focal shift to tap into digital escapism with sensoriality and immersive designs, as seen previously with Sinful Color Essenchills Scented Lavender. Brands also explore this new territory with avatars-like looks thanks to products like Nomad - Iceland Fire and Ice Palette or Facelace’s eye stickers that bring in glitter and holographic eye shapes. 

Source: Facelace

Source: Facelace

Color cosmetics are making a comeback and so are bold looks. As an expression of freedom and optimism, consumers unveil colorful and artistic looks pushing further the creativity boundaries. “Limitless Humanoid” conveys this expression of infinite human possibilities, while “MOMA Couture” emphasizes the central place of colors. “Gamified Victory” brings the omnipresent gaming dimension into makeup. Old gaming nostalgias or futuristic metaverse are sources of creative art inspirations.

This blog post presents some extracts of our previous Beauty reports: What’s Up USA and Revivalism Makeup USA. Contact the agency for more information on full reports.
Follow Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation on Twitter and on Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

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