Why the US is the land of luxury opportunity

Photo: Tanya Bernard

American consumers are in a flamboyant state of mind.  Since the pandemic, the US has made an impressive economic recovery, with Bloomberg confirming the country’s status as a global leader in luxury consumerism.  And according to Euromonitor’s Global Wealth and Luxury Report 2022, by 2030, the US will be home to the world’s largest population of high-net-worth individuals and ultra-high-net-worth individuals.

1- Revealing new luxuriant aspirations

Take inspiration from recent luxury launches, activations, and AW22 collections which capture the contemporary sophistication of the US luxurian.

Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta / Tom Ford

• Overt Wealth: How do you show the world you’re a crypto-luxurian? A new limited-edition collaboration from Fendi and global digital asset management platform Ledger, has resulted in a collection of tech accessories designed to hold Ledger’s secure hardware crypto wallet. The collection was unveiled at Fendi’s Men’s AW22-23 fashion show on January 15.

• Day Luxe: For his AW22 collection, Tom Ford offset a monochrome color palette with sumptuous fabrications, that reinforced the desirability of the jewel box palette. Ford layered mono-colors to create depth and richness, bringing a heightened sophistication to daywear. 

• New Territories: Luxury brands are rediscovering the US and as the country gets wealthier, they are eyeing second - and even third-tier - cities as new retail hotspots. Prada is heading to Austin, Louis Vuitton will show its 2023 Cruise collection in La Jolla, California, and Kering has announced plans to expand its retail presence in Nashville and Atlanta.

2. Luxury’s new beauty codes

In our latest What’s Up US Makeup report, we highlight 10 of the latest trends for the US market, including the New Luxury Expression - a trend propelled by the buoyant US economy, ascending consumer optimism, a desire for higher sophistication, and to, quite frankly, look expensive.

The AW 22/23 catwalk season confirmed that sophistication is back. From haute hair styling to ultra-glam makeup, the luxury of freedom is being expressed through sophisticated new looks. And Americans are in the mood for a party - after months of restrictions, the return of socializing is a gift for those wanting to make a bold beauty statement.  In Beauty this manifests as a look that is equal parts Wall Street and 90s It Girl.

• Brown Brilliance: Intense chocolatey hues replace minimalist and neutral colors. Dark creamy lipsticks or coffee-and-cream nail polish are the new aesthetics to follow.

• Ultra-Comfort Matte: According to Spate, the number of searches using the term “Matte” has experienced +13,7% growth amounting to 762,4 K monthly searches. “Cream to Powder Foundation” was at +175,1% (Source: Spate NYC Tool - End March 2022 - Year Over Year).

• Monochromatic Statement: Color becomes a conduit for pleasure and self-expression, with vivid combinations and striking monochromes representing luxury’s new dynamism. Full-color looks make a bold statement, this is see-and-be-seen beauty that draws on layering mono-color to striking effect. 

This is an extract from our latest What’s Up US Beauty report for Spring 2022.

Our new What's Up report analyzes the latest evolution of the US Beauty market, decoding the societal changes and innovative paths of beauty brands, organized around ten inspirational trends.

Each trend is supported by examples of aspirational beauty archetypes, along with information on the new indie players, concepts and products that are changing the Beauty game. Every trend confirmation is backed by key data analysis provided by the Spate NYC Google search tool and Tribe Dynamics latest figures, allowing us to deliver you an even deeper level of actionable insight and market accuracy. 

Seventy pages, ten trends, unmissable insight.

contact us to ask for more information or for a quotation.

• #socialmedia #trends
• beauty
• Beauty
• clean beauty
• Conference
• Exhibition
• fashion
• fashion week
• insights
• Inspiration
• kbeauty
• Korea
• makeup
• Retail
• Skincare
• socialmedia
• sustainability
• tiktok
• trends
• Trends
• wellness

Why brands should think more about adaptive Beauty

Photo: Ron Lash via Pexels

In a world where 15% of the population are living with some form of disability and the number of people aged over-60 is set to double by 2050, it is now critical for brands to consider Adaptive Beauty as part of their strategy.

Representing a quarter of the population in the United States, people with disabilities hold an estimated spending power of $490 billion, yet their needs continue to be overlooked by many brands. Forward-thinking companies are beginning to bring solutions with adaptive products, tools and packaging that allow those with particular needs to be part of the Beauty conversation - without any concessions or limitations. We are already seeing early signs of a new approach to Beauty taking shape, where holistic empathy for all humans and for the planet is driving new product innovation and creative expression. 

Beauty Brands can take inspiration from other industries, which are making accessibility a priority.

1. Innovation in adaptive fashion and sportswear

   In fashion, Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2021 Adaptive Collection was designed specifically for adults and children living with disabilities. Nike has created a handsfree sneaker in the Go FlyEase, which works due to the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge holding the shoe in a steady open position. While Gen Z brand Rebirth Garment tackles accessibility through a body non-conformist lens, creating bold wearables and accessories for people on the full spectrum of gender, size and ability. Similarly pitching at a younger demographic Intimately is a new, trend-led adaptive lingerie brand that designs for individuals with reduced hand dexterity and shoulder mobility. There is also an Intimately mobile app where members of the disabled community can connect with one another.

2. Facilitating in-store access

   Pantene have partnered with blind broadcaster and TikTokker Lucy Edwards for the launch of their new NaviLens codes on Pantene Miracles products and display shelving. NaviLens is like a next-generation QR code;. users download the NaviLens app to scan with their mobile camera to receive the distance to the product, along with the necessary information contextualized, in this instance product information including descriptions of the bottle shapes.

   A Starbucks store located inside the Seoul National University Dental Hospital sets the tone for what truly adaptive retail can look like. The entire store, including back-of-house, is fully wheelchair accessible, and all staff are trained in basic Korean Sign Language. Other features include contactless speech-to-text voice recognition through a tablet, a Braille menu, and digital signage which lets customers track the progress of their order.

   Amplifying its commitment to size and skin tone inclusivity, Savage x Fenty’s new Las Vegas flagship leverages tech to create a more inclusive and safer shopping environment. The store features Fit:Match AI technology, using an iPhone to scan a shopper’s body dimensions in a matter of seconds. The app then provides product recommendations based on the user’s size and shape, allowing them to purchase without having to try on in-store.

3. Adaptive Beauty underway

   In Beauty, inclusivity and accessibility are also moving beyond the issue of skin color. Kohl Kreatives is a post-inclusive beauty brand specialising in tools supporting individuals with motor disabilities, transgender people and individuals going through, or recovering from, cancer treatment. The Flex Collection makeup brush set is tailored towards anyone with a motor disability or disease.

   Olay has developed the open-source and unpatented Easy Open Lid to widen the accessibility of the brand’s moisturiser products. The lid has winged sides and a raised top with added texture for grip, higher-contrast product labels and Braille text. The lid was developed in consultation with physical therapists, occupational therapists, and UX experts to improve usability for people with a wide range of dexterity issues. 

Adaptive Beauty is one of the trends we highlight in our latest USA Trend Report - The New State of Being. It is also one of the key highlights or our White Paper - The age of Fluidity - Trends 2022 and beyond.

Contact us for more information.

South Korea Trend Update: Deeper Sustainability

Innisfree / Instagram

The South Korean market has always showed its ability to meet global needs, seizing the opportunity to innovate in Retail and Beauty. New priorities have emerged from 2021, as the market - and consumers - adapt to the new normal.

One of the key trend we address in our latest WhatsUp Report, is the next-gen circularity, a new focus of K-Beauty as rising consumer consciousness around sustainability fuels brand innovation. South Korea’s shift towards value-driven consumerism is rising with - two-thirds (59.5%) of women aged between 25 and 39 interested in eco-friendly and natural cosmetics*.

Brands and retailers are meeting the moment for responsible purchasing with waste-free or refill store concepts and inspiring consumers with new eco-rituals.

#1 CIRCULAR RETAIL

InnisfreeJeju Color Picker Makeup

Leading brands are applying the principles of circularity to the retail environment, creating a joined-up, upcycled experience. Innisfree’s ground-breaking Recycle Store first opened in 2017, and became a green landmark thanks to the use of 230,00 upcycled bottles in its construction. The store underwent a refresh in May 2021, enhancing its commitment to waste-free retailing with an interactive bottle recycling point, and a space for workshops where customers can create their own upcycled beauty accessories or create artwork from expired makeup. There is also a corner of the store dedicated to spotlighting other eco-friendly brands.

#2 ECO ACADEMY

Aromatica Zero Station

Putting education at the centre of the consumer experience, the Aromatica Zero Station at Starfield Hanam in Gyeonggi-do (opened Oct 2021) is dedicated to helping consumers understand the brand’s rigorous approach to sustainability. Shoppers can learn about the carefully selected raw materials and five extraction techniques that go into making Aromatica products, whilst also learning how to properly separate, recycle and dispose of their empty containers.

#3 ECO-CONSCIOUS RITUALS 

Aromatica Wooden Dolphin Face & Body Massage Tool

Brands are also developing new eco-rituals around materiality and self-care. Aromatica’s Wooden Dolphin Face & Body Massage Tool is made from sustainably-sourced Belgian Beachwood and is designed to stimulate the nerves and blood vessels passing between the muscles. By stimulating the lymph nodes the tool helps to discharge toxins from the body. The tool's outer packaging is made from 100% upcycled paper derived from sugar cane by-products.

This is an extract of the agency’s latest report - What’s Up in Seoul, made in partnership with Latitude 37.

Font Picture: Hince

Contact us for more information.

Source : * Cosmorning / Opensurvey

THE AGE OF FLUIDITY - FIVE BEAUTY PREDICTIONS FOR 2022 AND BEYOND

Photo: Pexels - Valera Evane

“Beauty brands must adapt to the new normal, in order to benefit from the announced resilience of the beauty market,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation. 

Despite the rolling uncertainty of living in a With Covid world, McKinsey predicts that Beauty sales in 2022 will overtake the pre-pandemic levels of 2019. Consumer sentiment is optimistic, and the urge to create moments of escapism and entertainment in the midst of all the unpredictability - is very real. 

“TikTok fuels creativity and the shift towards self-education that happened over lockdown has enhanced consumers’ knowledge and skill-set. This creative autonomy, along with the rising digitalization of culture and the Gen Z influx are culminating to redefine Beauty. And in this new phase of aesthetic experimentation, makeup rebounds as a symbol of joy.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation.

In the future, consumers will learn the value of approaching life with a fluid mindset. If 2020-21 forced consumers to become rapidly adaptable, then 2022 and beyond will see them apply this flexible approach to deal with the dynamic motion of living in an uncertain world.

Taking this newfound adaptability into consideration, below, is a snapshot of the five key trends that will impact the industry in 2022 and beyond.

For the full white paper, please drop us a line.  

#1 From Sustainability to Beauty Uncompromised

Innisfree Seoul - Collaboration for good 

Innisfree reopened its recycling store with an enhanced commitment to waste reduction, which includes interactive spaces for workshops and lectures where customers can create their own upcycled beauty accessories. There is also a corner of the store dedicated to spotlighting other eco-friendly brands; the first to be highlighted was The Picker - a zero-waste platform that sells everyday household products.(Source: Innisfree Instagram) 

In 2022, purposeful beauty merges with sustainability to create a new beauty eco-system - one that is built upon uncompromising standards and principles. Consumers are pushing beyond ‘clean’ to a place of uncompromised wellbeing - where pleasure and personal beauty are achieved without detriment to people or the planet. The expectation is for nothing less than net-zero. 

The rising climate anxiety is propelling consumers into taking affirmative action - over half (51%) now factor in whether a product was produced with a traceable and transparent origin. And, attuned to the tropes of greenwashing rhetoric and marketing messages, consumers will drive brands to adopt proactive climate-positive strategies. 

When it comes to production, radical transparency is key. 61% of consumers say they struggle to tell whether a beauty product is ethically produced by looking at its packaging, while half of would like brands to make it easier for them to spot how a product was produced (Source: Poll of 2,000 adults by study by Wella's weDo/ Professional). Going forward, consumers will t to be told to The Who, The Where and The How behind each product. 

This signals a clear shift from sustainability to beauty uncompromised, where brands will need to reinforce their their transparency credentials.

Beauty brands can deliver assurances by putting transparency at the center of the product experience, freeing the consumer to enjoy and experiment without guilt or compromise. 

#2. From Color to Joyspotting

“Everyone should be able to have the freedom to enjoy makeup” - Danessa Myrick

Photo: Danessa Myrick Facebook

Joyspotting reveals a new facet of beauty, one where makeup is cumulatively self-care, a tool of transformation and a manifestation of self-fluidity.  

This is a trend borne from the Tiktokization of the Beauty industry - where creators and influencers encourage followers to escape from the rules and embrace the fluidity of experimentation. On TikTok, there’s no room for perfection or judgement, just joy - a third of users (31%) report turning to the app in order to lift their spirits.

Fuelled by these influences, Beauty in 2022 will be rich with aesthetic rebellion and fluid creativity. The face and body will become canvases for celebratory makeup looks. And consumer sentiment is firmly behind experimentation - Pinterest reports a spike in searches for mullet hairstyles (+190%); tooth gems (+85%); bejewelled eye looks (+110%) and rhinestone pedicures (+150%).

In the US, rising brand Danessa Myrick is connecting with next-gen Joyspotters through a strategy built on inclusion and artistry. The brand’s ethos that, ”everyone should be able to have the freedom to enjoy makeup,” speaks to the new fluidity.  The color-changing pigments of the brand’s signature Chrome Flakes are representative of the new wave of ephemeral and transformative products that are only just beginning to emerge. 

Creative ephemerality also comes to the fore, with new products and devices allowing users to easily switch up their beauty looks. In South Korea, nails become a vehicle for self-expression as the pandemic continues to stifle opportunities to showcase creative flair beyond the home. In response,  nails are getting bigger and bolder, popping with 3D accents of glitter, crystals and jewellery. In the future, Brands will approach the art of beauty as an act of pleasure, and those that can deliver an instant shot of happiness will connect with consumers, who are looking for products to lift them out of the pandemic slump. 

#3. From Inclusivity to Radical Adaptive Beauty

Noto Botanics, a gender-neutral beauty line, focuses on sustainable, organic and vegan products that are gender fluid and multiuse.

Photo: Noto Botanics Facebook

As we move towards a post-inclusive society the beauty industry will seek to further individualise its approach. The industry will need to push beyond skin-tone matching to encircle all aspects of inclusivity, including the Gen Z vs Mature skin silos. As we move forward,  fluidity will be treated with the same value and respect as accessibility and adaptability.

And as we evolve our understanding of what true inclusivity means, today’s diverse and multifaceted consumers will expect to be met with products that fit their exacting needs. Beauty products that radically adapt to individuality, moving from social specificities seen at the surface (skin tone, hair type, etc) to a profound understanding of the "underskin" mechanism, will continue to emerge.  And we are only just beginning to see what is possible, as brands start to come through with tailored products that more insightfully address biological or physical nuances. 

In the Future, the Beauty industry will take action to ensure that no consumer is left out of the conversation - regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, size or ability. Currently, 15% of the world’s population are living with some form of disability, and as the population ages, this number will only increase. Designing products, tools and packaging with this demographic in mind should be imperative for the industry. 

As the fashion industry makes strides towards full social inclusivity, the Beauty industry will keep pace to ensure no consumer is left out of the beauty conversation - regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, size or ability.  

#4- From Skinification to Augmented Underskin

Be Radiance infuse their makeup powders with probiotics, for a healthy approach to skin complexion.

Photo: Be Radiance

The pandemic has stirred the ultra-fetishization of wellness and the healthification of the beauty industry. With a preventive mindset becoming the new normality, consumers are focused on care and safety, and they crave potent, power-dosing ingredients across all of their beauty products. In response, brands are engineering products using the latest technological advances, while at the same time introducing new, biological semantics into the beauty narrative. 

Stories around skin barrier empowerment, microbiome and psychobiological enhancers, hormonal regulators and circadian champions will continue to break through, as brands add another level of science-proofing to the consumer experience. And in the years ahead, consumers will be alerted to a new discourse around the underskin. More and more brands come with sophisticated formula with “skin health” related ingredients. Be Radiance now infuse their makeup powders with probiotics, which activate with water to positively “colonize the microbiota” explains the brand. A global beauty approach of the skin, where makeup goes beyond color as it rebalances the skin while protecting it against external aggressions.

In the future, products that adapt to the rise of skin sensitivity will become critical for consumers who want to preserve their skin health, without sacrificing performance. In this context, the boundaries between makeup and skincare, food and beauty will blur. A new generation of hybrid products will explode the frontiers between traditional segments to levitate beauty to new horizons.

#5- From Home Spa to Temporal beauty Tech

L’Oreal’s AI-integrated hair coloring device presented at CES 2022

Tech is tapping the mood for fluidity, as innovation keeps pace with consumer demand for products that allow them to seamlessly switch-up their beauty looks, from home.  And science-backed products, temporary treatments and formulations engineered to cheat surgical procedures, appeal to those looking for sophisticated out-of-the-jar beauty solutions. 

Since the pandemic ushered in new ways of working and living, consumers quickly learned how to adapt and realised that joy can be found in impermanence. Now, the desire to eschew long-term commitments for temporary thrills is taking hold in beauty. Innovations at CES 2022 captured this creative ephemerality - from L’Oreal’s AI-integrated hair coloring device, the Colorsonic, to the handheld temporary tattoo-printing machine from start-up, Prinker.

Last year, we also began to track the rise of beauty ‘tweakments’ - where consumers opted for small, professional beauty hacks to elevate their everyday look. In the eye brow category, we have seen an upsurge of interest in procedures that will impact the brow segment in beauty. According to Spate data, eye brow lamination Google searches in 2022 reached 266.2K monthly search volume, rising +55.6 % year-over-year and searches for botox brow lift were +29,2%.

In the future, scientific legitimacy coupled with technological precision will allow consumers to achieve - and measure - next-level results, without the commitment of permanent procedures. 

Every year, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation reveals the Top Five Predictions and a white paper reserved for clients. Meet us at the Makeup in Los Angeles on February 23-24, 2022 to discover the Inspiration Bar around the four first topics and the Beauty Talks where creators of brands and experts of the industry will share their vision of the evolution of Beauty.

Beauty’s Bounceback IN USA

Pic: Pexels - Guilherme Almeida

The latest figures from The NPD Group underscore the rising mood of consumer optimism, as the US beauty industry emerges from last year +30% versus 2020 (the equivalent of $22bn in sales).  Fragrance was the best performing category (+49%) YoY, followed by haircare (+47%), makeup (+23%), and skincare (+18%).  

For many, returning to the office and the revival of social activities has fuelled the appetite for new products. Coupled with a lockdown diet of TikTok tutorials, consumers are feeling more creative and experimental than ever. According to NPD’s data, there was a growth in sales of cream and stick blushes - two products that have gained particular popularity on social media. Further to that, brands helmed by high profile influencers and creators had the highest revenue gains among all the makeup brand types. 

In the skincare category, sales of facial cleansers, creams, and serums, grew between 15% and 24%, versus 2020. Sales of targeted products, like eye and lip treatments, also increased. Clinical skincare brands contributed the highest revenue gains to the category, and surpassed natural as the largest brand type in skincare, based on revenue.

“As we move through 2022, the beauty companies that will thrive are those that harness the industry’s unique ability to spread joy, while also recognizing the opportunities of a changed consumer and retail environment. We can expect more change to unfold in 2022, but, along with these changes, new opportunities for the beauty industry will present themselves.” Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at NPD

In our latest trend report, The New State of Being - Makeup, our team charts beauty’s positive rebound and how optimistic consumer sentiment is not only driving the continued bounceback of the beauty market but is also translating into exciting new product directions. Our next report, The New State of Being - Skincare, will be available in March. 

MAKEUP BECOMES FAKEUP

PHOTO: @Paintlabco

Real-life and virtual life is blurring and impacting the beauty-representation and practices. Consumers are faking-it to achieve their beauty aspirations, using makeup shortcuts to achieve temporary transformations that lift their looks to new, hyper-realistic levels.  

Read about four directions deciphered by the agency that captures the emerging #FakeUp beauty trend, highlighted with key facts from Google searches from the SPATE NYC tool.

#1- Hyperrealism replaces surrealism

Hyper-real transformation is becoming the new beauty game, creating an inspiring space in which the real and the virtual now overlap and creating a fertile ground for creativity. Fake, oversized, synthetic, and hyper-volumized makeup looks dominate this space, reshaping conventional beauty standards and practices. Consumers are now looking to apply aesthetic tricks to their every day, using morphing tools and products to create exaggerated versions of themselves, albeit fleetingly.

Tapping the trend for creative transcience, Ephemeral is the LA tattoo studio that developed ink that is, ‘made to fade’ over the period of a year. Extreme exaggeration is also one of the key themes where new beauty falsies appear as “must-haves”. According to Spate NYC tools, Google searches for “eyebrow stamp” are at +359%, and “press-on nails” are at +10.7% in 2021.  

#2 - OUTERSIZE LASHES

False eyelashes are getting an upgrade this season. Lashes are becoming an area for bold, creative expression. A trend well-suited to the Insta generation, make this directional look more commercial by creating easy-to-follow guides and kits. The Mega Lash look springs directly from the digital landscape, and brands are meeting consumer demand for niche falsie products that deliver on outsize volume.  From the wet-look Lash Drip Icy Lashes by Kiss, to new ranges that tap the growing male falsie market, boom lashes are key to the hyper-real aesthetic.

#3 - HYBRID RUSH

Aesthetic practices are reinventing the rules as consumers opt for longer-lasting alternatives. The growing interest in hybrid lash extensions reveals consumers’ aim for an amplified lash look that combines heightened length with extra volume. Spate reports that there are on average 13.8K searches for “hybrid lash extensions” every month in the US, which is up +71.1% on last year (2021 vs 2020). Hybrid lashes can last up to 8 weeks but require special treatment, which brands need to consider when creating content and promoting products. With no current market leader in this space, there is a huge opportunity for brands to innovate with products and tools that cater to hybrid lash specificities.

#4 - NAIL INTRICACIES  

Nails also come under the magnifying class - literally - with consumers chasing products that can satiate the appetite for impulsive transformations. The popularity of artificial nails is at an all-time high - the latest forecasts predict the market will grow by $265.25M during 2022-2026, progressing at a CAGR of 5.59%. Google searches for “nail design” are up  +43.4%; “nail art” +56.1% and “French tips nails” +100.1% (in 2021 according to Spate Tool). Just like the trend for hyper-realistic makeup, the mood for nail art is overblown and exaggerated. Sophisticated falsies step in, allowing professionals and at-home consumers to customize elongated and elaborately shaped nails with surrealist art, unexpected textures, patterns and color combinations, and subversions of the classic French manicure. Pinterest has also recorded a spike in interest in creative nail art,  with searches for  “galaxy nail art” up +115% year on year, while searches for “ocean nails acrylics” have increased fives times over. 

This article is an extract of some go the key findings of our latest makeup report “The New State Of Being”. Contact us for more information.

BEAUTY IS BACK - 3 MAKEUP TRENDS TO FOLLOW

As the post-pandemic reality takes shape and consumer confidence slowly returns in line with the vaccine roll-out, we move forward with energy and optimism. Our latest What’s Up report outlines the bold creativity, energy and positivity with which consumers are facing everything from the return to socialization to the climate crisis. 

According to data from NPD, a third of US consumers plan to spend more this Holiday season, with almost two-thirds of consumers saying they are more comfortable shopping in-store than they were last year.  All signs point towards a rebound for the Beauty industry -  in the first half of 2021, makeup sales were +23% on 2019, and +22% on 2020. This over-arching positivity is evident in all of the core trends we highlighted this season; Beauty is being rebooted to meet the appetite for renewal and rebirth. 

 Our latest What’s Up report features 10 of the most exiting trends to follow to be ahead of the beauty game. Here is a little extract of 3 trends of our book.

#1 BEAUTY RESET

Source : Simihaze

 It’s time to hit the reset button. As we start to put some distance between the present and the pandemic, this is the moment for a Beauty recalibration. Exciting new brands, helmed by next-generation tastemakers, are breaking through with energy while established brands are taking the opportunity to realign their values with the new reality. We look ahead to the launch of Ariana Grande’s hotly tipped beauty line, r.e.m beauty, and check out the new brand Treslúce from creative powerhouse Becky G - a champion of contemporary LatinX culture. Similarly injecting bold expressionism into makeup, DJs, models and twin sisters Simi and Haze Khadra have launched their eponymous beauty line, Simihaze. Meanwhile, Sephora backs the rebirth of Fashion Fair - a 56-year old veteran of the Black beauty scene.

#2 FULL FLUSH

Source : Anna Sui NYFW 2021

What does a post-mask world look like? The transition from masks-on to masks-off is driving the trend for experimental product placement and colour-play, with flushed cheeks and temples signalling health and vitally to the world.  At NYFW, makeup artists at Anna Sui, Collina Strada, and Carolina Herrera applied blush high on the temples and across the eyes, as a contouring product to bring a new focus to alternative features. The message was clear; blushing-up is the new going-out makeup.  And in this experimental new beauty era, cheeks are not the only area on which to place blush. Eyes have taken on an even greater resonance over the past 18 months and now blush is being applied to underscore the power of the gaze. 

#3 JOYDRESSING GLAM

Source : Tom Ford NYFW 2021 & Saint Sintra NYFW 2021

The stage is set for beauty that is all about expressing unadulterated joy; from glitter drizzles to rhinestone-encrusted cat-eyes. Embodied by Tom Ford’s SS22 collection of glamorous sensuality, where jewelled brights and sequined fabrics were layered for a loose, louche silhouette, this next trend is all about The Glam. Capturing the Gen Z market for Y2K-inflected references, noughties club makeup popped on the NYFW catwalk at Saint Sintra and influenced the MUA for Private Policy. And plenty of brands are now tapping into this post-pandemic party spirit, with the likes of About Face, Iconic London and Danessa Myricks Beauty all dropping products that feature liquid glow, high-pigment glitter and infinite chrome. The party era is upon us.

Emotional Artistry - unleashing the color of FREEDOM

Photo by Alejandro Peralta from Pexels

A new tide of optimism is being announced, unleashing freedom of expression through the uprise of artistic looks. The Beauty landscape broadens to new creative levels, propelled by GenZ brands that theatricalize self-expression and prioritize disruptive color looks. To fight boredom in lockdowns or celebrate restrictions lifting, emotional art remains the best way to reconnect with one's creativity. Artistic makeup makes a comeback with bold styles and colorful products. Moreover, with digital technology fully integrated into everyday life, new dimensions are explored in self-expression territories. 

Here is an extract of our latest trend reports revealing the new staging of color and the implication for innovation.

LIMITLESS HUMANOID

Infinity is now the limit of human creativity, as colored liners and ultra-pigmentation redefine makeup art. Fantasy with unique looks and dreamlike experiences prevail on social media – going above and beyond the body territory. During the Byredo makeup collection launch, the brand shared photos where the models have randomly applied different makeup textures all over their faces. Some creative Instagram accounts theatricalize colorful designs on the ears and lips, such as @marthamakeupartist, or showcase tricolor nail cascades at @nailshawty.

Source: Instagram @nailshawty nails art.

For makeup innovations, it creates a multitude of possibilities as consumers focus on self-expression. According to Spate NYC (May 2021), the searches and interest for inner eyeliner have grown +77.4% since last year. It resonates with the growing demand for colored liners: at Haus Laboratories with the Eye-Dentify Gel Pencil Eyeliner; at Freck Beauty with The Alien Eyes Lid Lick, which plays on offbeat semantics; and at Melolops with ultra-pigmented ink. Recently, About Face complemented its Matte Fluide Eye Paint collection with four limited-edition “Daytripper” pastel shades: a gentle lavender, soft aqua, tender green, and a mellow yellow. Inspired by the freedom and artistic expression of the ‘60s and ‘70s, the super-saturated chromatic pastels in the matte powder formula give a significant color impact for limitless looks. 

Source: About Face - Daytripper Matte Fluide Eye Paint

MOMA COUTURE

As lockdowns restrictions ease, consumers desire color cosmetics such as lipstick and blush more than ever. According to Spate NYC (May 2021), searches and interest for pink lipsticks have grown +18.9% since last year. Colors remain a vital element to create a self-universe. Suva Beauty Palette with ultra-saturated pigments cultivates this MOMA atmosphere and serves well the colorful ambitions. Suva Beauty re-edits and renames its eyeliner palette Hydra FX Collection of water eyeliner into “We make rainbows jealous” to celebrate Pride Month 2021. Byredo’s Prismic Palette includes a rainbow of 18-eyeshadow shade with high-impact glitter, neon matte, and metallic finish. Ciaté London released the Mascara Smiley in pink, yellow, and green and Lime Crime 51 Volumizing Mascara in green, purple, and blue.

Sources: Model.com and Byredo Prismic Palette // Hilda wearing Suva Beauty Hydra FX Collection

GAMIFIED VICTORY

In the age of tech explosion, some gamers regularly bring out their old consoles and immerse themselves in their childhood adventures. The retro gaming aesthetic has been increasingly present outside gaming platforms with gamified products in the past months. For example, Kaja Beauty released Joystick Brightening Setting Powder, a powder applied with a joystick-shaped brush. Other brands developed experiential products like XX Revolution with Light Up Lip Gloss and Light Up Eyeshadow Palette Light's On that both include light and mirror to be reapplied in the dark. 

Other beauty consumers utilize the new gaming world as an area of futuristic and modern makeup. The lavender color emerges from this trend and recalls the transition to the metaverse. In Beauty, GenZ brand Dragun Beauty used Lavender as a core shade for its product and collaborated with Morphe for a collection inspired by the gaming universe. Digital Lavender will be the focal shift to tap into digital escapism with sensoriality and immersive designs, as seen previously with Sinful Color Essenchills Scented Lavender. Brands also explore this new territory with avatars-like looks thanks to products like Nomad - Iceland Fire and Ice Palette or Facelace’s eye stickers that bring in glitter and holographic eye shapes. 

Source: Facelace

Color cosmetics are making a comeback and so are bold looks. As an expression of freedom and optimism, consumers unveil colorful and artistic looks pushing further the creativity boundaries. “Limitless Humanoid” conveys this expression of infinite human possibilities, while “MOMA Couture” emphasizes the central place of colors. “Gamified Victory” brings the omnipresent gaming dimension into makeup. Old gaming nostalgias or futuristic metaverse are sources of creative art inspirations.

This blog post presents some extracts of our previous Beauty reports: What’s Up USA and Revivalism Makeup USA. Contact the agency for more information on full reports.
Follow Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation on Twitter and on Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

DIVE IN PREVIOUS ARTICLES OF THE BLOG

PICK ARTICLES FROM THE TAGS

• beauty
• makeup
• Skincare
• trends
• Trends

3 MUST-FOLLOW ON THE GRAM THAT EMBODY THE SPIRIT OF 2021

Unsplash / Georgia de Lotz

The Gram is not dead! After an unprecedented year, this social media was strengthened, deepened, and widened by users. The platform turned ten years old in 2020, with more than 1 billion people worldwide using Instagram everyday, 30 minutes a day, in 2021(Source).

For our dear trends hunters, we have selected three must-follow accounts that embody the spirit of 2021.

1) The “Skintellectual”

@seangarrette / 75,4k followers

On social media, a new wave of “Skintellectuals” shapes the way we use skincare. Cosmetics experts and skin enthusiasts are extremely well-read and know each must-have ingredients by heart.

First global ambassador of Fenty Skin, Sean Garrette, is a beauty aesthetician based in NYC. As a young black beautician, Sean is inclusivity-driven. He aims to make skincare as approachable and accessible as possible.

 Everyday, the "skinfluencer" deciphers products and ingredients for his community on his Instagram.

2) The Edgy Guru

@rowisingh

207k followers

With just over 200k influencers, Rowi is the must-follow new Edgy guru.

The Sydney-based make-up artist embodies the edgy approach of Gen Z to color and make-up looks. Inclusive, impactful, and saturated, she goes beyond the lines and the traditional pairings of shades.

She’s not afraid to mix all textures and effects, as long as it feels and looks never-seen. Breaking all codes, she aims to open new undiscovered paths to makeup. 

She is also an inclusive feminist.

“I love being able to communicate the strength and power of my South Asian womanhood,” she muses. “I’m empowered to visualize the natural fluidity between my culture and art.”

3/ The “Mood” Curator

@the.pinklemonade - 2,2M followers

Created by @fra_vullo, The Pink Lemonade is a shining example of "mood & Beauty curators" Instagram accounts. 

Made to inspire and to give indie artists visibility, these accounts are flowing all over social media. A perfect daily dose of everything Beauty (makeup looks, design, retail, photographers, pottery, etc.)

Each day, an image, to create a whimsical Cabinet de Curiosité.

One post a day = escapism, good vibes & indie inspiration.

Did you like this article? The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Agency publishes an Instagram trend-book every season, to help you keep up with the best trends from social media. Contact the agency for more information.

Follow the agency on Twitter ou Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

Top 5 Beauty PREDICTIONS for 2021 ( and Beyond)

Photo Credit - Isco

2020 has been the year of acceleration of significant trends and a year that has reshaped the market forever, as consumers have disrupted their behavior in the way they shop, their needs, and their beauty aspirations. As 2021 has started, hopes are emerging, and brands need to prepare for the new normal. 

Consumers have lived through a year of new experimentations, more in-depth knowledge through digitalization, and have had the time to think about what they truly value in their lives (and their Beauty). 

 2021 will be essential to reinvent, find new dimensions of excellence and luxury, redefine values, meet new requirements, and participate in resilience.

This article highlights 5 of our predictions in 2021 and beyond, based on key highlights from 2020 and the evolutions we expect for the future.

An extract of a white paper available at the agency. 

1.      From Transparency to Radical Traceability

As trust is the new currency, safety and wellness become key; brands will need to explore radical traceability solutions. 

Transparency is a prerequisite of conscious consumption, and 2020 has reinforced the need to make a safe choice for anything applied on skin. Moreover, reaching global wellbeing implies ethical decisions, especially in luxury.  IPSOS Luxury survey shows that 90% of the affluent Chinese expect brands to have an ethical/ecological commitment, and 88% expect them to respect animal wellbeing. More than words, consumers call for facts. 

According to the UEBT 2020 survey, consumers expect more information on packaging: 82% want to know the origin of ingredients, and 78% wish to know the social impact of sourcing local ingredients. In 2020, the discussion on ethical sourcing accelerated.  In the USA, Beautycounter has made a massive communication on responsible sourcing, pointing out the “clean” origing of their Mica and the urgence to fight against hidden forced labor. 

British E-Retailer, Cult, has cooperated with the blockchain technology platform Provenance to collect information about the source, ingredients, craftsmanship, and requirements of its products, and then use evidence to prove the authenticity of this information

2.      From "Skinification" to augmented "Healthification."

"Skinification" was the major trend in 2020, as consumers shifted from makeup to the "pandemic-proof" skincare market. But what 2020 has taught us is the importance of prevention for our health. According to Innova's Consumer Survey 2020, "six out of ten global consumers are increasingly looking for F&B products that support their immune health. One in three says that concerns about immune health increased in 2020 over 2019". 

A healthy complexion has always been the quintessence of Beauty, but consumers are actively looking at ingredients that bring more than a quick fix or beautiful makeup. According to WWD, Vitamins, supplements, and even homeopathic remedies experienced unprecedented levels of demand during the April coronavirus pandemic in the US. We have seen skincare transitioning to self-care, as consumers were spending more time at home, dealing with anxiety and their mental health. Interest in wellness has increased, and new brands are taking the stand to answer this new need. Psychotherapy brand Disciple offers a holistic approach to stress-relief and answers to anxiety-related skin issues such as acne.

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The British wellness DTC brand Nue Co. launched Forest Lungs, a fragrance "supplement" intended to "deliver the healing effects of nature to the body [and] support the reduction of everyday stress."   

3.      From Skintellectualization to "Science Inside"

The "skintellectualization" of Beauty has emerged as a significant trend in 2020, propelled by Gen Z. 

Empowered by digital tools, these consumers are armed with in-depth Beauty knowledge and are now "ingredient wizards", even more attentive to INCI. Online, they are building a digital Beauty library, thanks to all the knowledge passed on forums, Reddit, Youtube, and social media.

@Skincare By Hyram

Simultaneously, a new generation of influencers such as skincare guru @Hyram in the US or @Secret de Peau in France, deciphers every product. Ready to make the next leap, ingredient-focused brand Inkey List drives the trend with a pedagogical approach to imperfections, specific protocols, and a radical education of consumers.

While recent years' fascination for mystical wellness was key, led by gurus such as Gwyneth Paltrow, we now see a renewed quest for scientific legitimacy. 2020 was the year of the emergence of scientific expert brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm. Her website relaunch in September 2020 focused on more educational features, propelling the views to  + 400%, according to Glossy.Co, Dr. Barbara Sturm's success embodies this new quest for science reinforcement – calling for experts, doctors, PHD with solid backgrounds and claims backed with scientific facts. 

4.      From Sustainability to Eco Celebration

 The recent sanitary crisis led to an acceleration of the expectation of consumers for purpose-driven and sustainable solutions. Mc Kinsey mentions "sustainability first”, while 57% of consumers in Germany and the UK declared, "they had made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact."

2020 was a significant year in sustainability stand up from brands in all markets. From zero-waste dining restaurants, zero-waste design, second-hand fashion or trashion (fashion with trash), innovation with eco-friendly solutions have accelerated, pushing brands to rethink packaging, product-delivery system, and delivery. New refills solutions (ex Unilever, Clarins Eco-Bar, Shiseido) have propelled the concept of zero waste beyond Indie. In the USA, Clean retailer Credo has sped up their Clean 2.O philosophy prioritizing sustainability by announcing that in 2023 they will banish single-use packaging, from single-use masks to testing wands in store.  Same for Selfridges in the UK, progressing in reducing its "plastic footprint" banning wipes to plastic-based glitter. All-over bold moves in the context of a sanitary crisis.

5.      From Lockdown Beauty to Unleashing Freedom 

 2020 lockdown transformed homes into safe life-spaces and wellness sanctuaries. 

This "home-hubbing" behavior created new needs, like self-care, intimate skincare, or the quest for minimalism. Lockdown was also an opportunity to self-experiment. Makeup became a powerful tool to fight boredom and fuel personal creativity. From maximalist nudes to extreme color payoffs, "lockdown looks", we witnessed the rise of highly creative looks shared on social media. Some 46% of women and 41% of men said they've spent more time on social media during the pandemic (source: Business.com). Instagram story, Tik Tok, and Twitch thus became the perfect platforms to boost self-expression, fight boredom, and seek inspiration. These platforms privilege movement, fun, freedom, far away from the lavish looks of Instagram and the hybridization of the virtual and real world.

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Shining example: the collaboration Travis Scott x Byredo gave birth to the Space Rage perfume, which encapsulates the essence of space to fly from home. The virtual gathering also increased to connect meaningfully, express creativity, and feel alive. Beauty brands surfed the trend: Morphe collaborated with the d'Amelio sisters on TikTok, and ELF created ASMR-like videos for their new Mint Collection. New into cosmetics market, we also explore the impact of Twitch in Makeup.

The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, Consulting and Forecasting Agency, specialist of the Beauty world, just launched its latest Inspiration Makeup USA trend book. Interested? Feel free to contact us !

PARIS BEAUTY TOUR: 3 INDIE RETAIL SPOTS

Photo credits: Seasonly / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

While recent events have accelerated the digitalization of our lives, retail is still alive as consumers have not totally shifted to e-commerce. According to a recent survey Yougov for the French retail magazine LSA, close to 60 % of French consumers have modified their purchase habits since the quarantine. They are also privileging more local, neighborhood stores.

In Paris, new spaces are flourishing as the wave of Indie French Touch keeps blowing on the market. Discover three must-see spots in “la Capitale” that our team have enjoyed visiting:

SEASONLY - CLEAN AND CUSTOMIZATION

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Ingredients, yes, but seasonal! A very “French Potager” approach for the latest indie brand Seasonly, born in 2018, with a range of “clean, healthy, seasonal” cosmetics. The brand is one of the more emblematic brands of “Indie French Touch”, with an uncompromising philosophy of “short formulas, with a blacklisted no-list of ingredients, all actives and sourced, in recycled and recyclable packaging.”

At the Galeries Lafayette d'Hausmann, this is the very first corner for the brand. Services include 15 to 60 minutes skincare sessions inspired by face gym in “Seasonly Skin Studio in bubble-cabins” with head massages, Gua Sha, and “Extras” for neck and décolleté. The corner also includes star products like the Huile de Nuit, a botanical concentrate of 14 super-ingredients, or the Anti-Grisaille Sérum.

❤️: Special mention to a very indie, pastel, cocooning approach.

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, 2nd floor - 40, Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris

Rendez-vous sur place ou par téléphone au 01 42 93 20 28

https://seasonly.fr/

Horace - Frenchy Male Care

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

This is the first permanent store for the male skincare brand at the heart of the Marais, after promising beginnings in 2015. Pre and post-shaving care, high-end toothpaste, natural deodorants, male skincare … Horace is one of the pioneer French XY brands on the market, with 95% sourced from “natural ingredients”. In-store, service is truly made-to-measure for each skin type.

❤️: a sober yet high-end masculine decor, with the opportunity to try the brand’s very first perfume.

Horace 

68, rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris

 L:A BRUKET - HYGGHE IN PARIS

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

After a first store in Saint Sulpice, the Swedish skincare brand is opening this second 50 square-meters location in the Marais. According to its name ( « Lilla Bruket » means “Little Workshop"), the store adopts a Scandinavian warm look, yet extremely minimalistic, to better reflect the sustainable philosophy of the brand: non-gendered, 100% organic and Swedish skincare.

❤️ : a millennial yet minimalistic architecture to best express sustainability, naturality, and no-waste.

L:A BRUKET

77 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003 Paris

www.labruket.com

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation organizes Beauty Tours à Paris, and created a special Indie French Touch report book. Contact the agency for more information.
Follow the agency on Twitter ou Instagram: @cosmeticseeds

Photo credits: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

(Re)Awakening : The Future of Beauty and an Era of New Semantics in the US

Photo credits: Damiano Baschiera / Unsplash

(Re)Awakening“ is the title of the latest trend report from Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, an invitation to look to the future of American Beauty. While the market has decelerated in beauty (-36% in Prestige Beauty in Q2-2020 according to NPD Group), resilience and awakening are emerging, giving birth to unprecedented changes. Moreover, inherent changes and social movements accelerate product innovation and new semantics, changing the face of the Beauty industry.

Premium Beauty News met with the Forecasting team at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation – Leïla Rochet (Chief Inspiration Officer), Sarah Schnebert (Content Expert) & Stéphanie Muit (Beauty & Fashion Trends Forecaster) – for this prospective interview. Brands acting as “care-takers”, “Cancel Culture” era, post-inclusivity, “self-hubbing”: meet the future of Beauty.

Premium Beauty News - What are your methods for projecting the trends forecasting the future of Beauty?

Leïla Rochet - First, we position ourselves as translators of the major trends that will impact the Beauty of tomorrow, both in terms of representations and archetypes, but also behaviors. Our vision relies on a Prospective Intelligence Method based on a thorough analysis of the market (articles, studies, magazines, online media, social media, and Fashion Week), field visits, and product analysis (deciphering product innovations and storytelling). Our reports are enriched with insights from studies, on top of the forecasting chapters, to help rethink your strategies and innovations.

Sarah Schnebert - Our inspirations arise from various sources, from lyrics to the latest indie albums, to captions from Instagram accounts. That’s what we love about semantics: by nature, words are an ever-changing force of society. Every generation reinvents words every day, a phenomenon that has accelerated in our digitalized life. All the modern wording we highlight or we reinvent in our reports are inspired by these insights.

Stéphanie Muit - From disruptive looks to innovative fabrics, we are deeply inspired by Fashion and what’s happening on social media, especially in makeup. In 2020, “self platform” like TikTok, Depop or Animal Crossing has revolutionized fashion consumption and influence. The same goes for the new “see now, buy now” trend, the gathering of both genders on the runways as well as the “phygital“ Fashion Weeks. All these trends have challenged traditional norms, rhythm, and seasonality of the Fashion industry that will impact beauty.

Premium Beauty News - What do you mean by “(Re)Awakening”?

Leïla Rochet - When future reblossoms, the world will awake with new opportunities. We invite brands to stay “awake” and “aware” of everything that surrounds us and prepare for the new future. Today’s unrivaled situation reshaped collective consciousness, forced consumers to reconsider their priorities, and shuffled their relation to beauty. Consumers are well informed and very aware of modern issues and will be increasingly demanding. They will look for brands with values and act with compassion during these difficult times. In our trend, Health (Re)Boot, we explore health as a new marker of Luxury and Beauty. Looking “healthy” was already key – and more important than looking young, in a 2018 survey by Philips, and this will accelerate with new territories of healthiness. We’ve moved from well-being to being truly well. The COVID-19 reminded us how vulnerable we are, how fundamental our skin is, as an emotional, intimate layer, but also as protective armor.

Sarah Schnebert - For (Re)Awakening, the word “awake” is a direct reference to the post-woke world. Since the 2010’s, the concept of “wokeness” has been so fundamental in the US, liberating but also culturally reshaping, in terms of feminism, inclusivity, LGBTQUA+ justice etc. It is truly a paradigm shift. American society is now adamant, uncompromising, especially when it comes to semantics faux-pas. We’ve moved on from ”influence” to “relevance”, and this is game-changing in terms of communication.

Stéphanie Muit - The idea of (Re)Awakening is about rethinking values, priorities, how to be in sync with our identity, with the world. To be sustainable, brands need to meet these new demands and new consumer needs. In the era of Cancel Culture, they will be constantly challenged to question themselves, to better themselves.

Premium Beauty News - What does this mean for brands tomorrow ?

Leïla Rochet - As consumers are incredibly demanding, brands need to be ready to be called out, to face backlashes whenever they speak out. There have been a few examples unfortunately. In the (Re)Awakening era, they are being judged on their empathy and on their civic-minded attitude. We analyzed how US brands behaved during lockdown, from their call for solidarity to the way they acted. Some have embraced the role of “care-takers”. The future of Beauty will lie in the hands of creative drivers. For consumers, aspirational “superficial” perfection is out, they wish to portray the best version of their individuality, staying truthful and authentic, while cultivating and celebrating differences. This is even more significant in makeup, which has always been a tool for freedom and creativity.On Instagram and TikTok, makeup was used as a hedonistic force, fueling new aesthetics, with a surrealistic touch. By supporting this new freedom wave, and allowing consumers to express themselves, Beauty brands will generate intimacy and engagement.

(Re) Awakening, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation latest Makeup and Skincare reports. Since 2007, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is a Beauty Forecasting and Consulting office specialized in Beauty Innovation. Twice a year, the agency releases USA and Korea Beauty reports, as well as various trend-report, and targeted reports on demand. The agency is also specialized in Beauty Strategy, Concept creation or ideation, and storytelling for BtoB or B to C companies.

Follow the agency: Instagram / LinkedIn
Web: www.inspiration-creation.com
Mail: contact@inspiration-creation.com

4 INSIGHTS ON HOW THE CRISIS FUELED BEAUTY INNOVATIONS IN KOREA

Source: Cho Gi Seok 조기석 / @chogiseok

Hit by the pandemic at an early stage, it did not take long for South Korea to react with creative resilience. With its legendary spirit of innovation, the Beauty champion emerged stronger, led by savvy new generations and dedicated brands…

The latest What’s Up South Korea report launched by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency dives into the transformations of the K-market and its amazing source of inspiration for Beauty. Here is an extract of the 4 insights changing the game. (Contact us to get the full report!)

INSIGHT #1: “BEYOND K-BEAUTY: I WANT K-DEFENSE”

Although being one of the first countries hit by COVID-19, South Korea effectively contained the virus in just one month. Past health crises (SARS in 2002, H1N1 in 2009, and MERS in 2015, etc.) have prepared the country, and the world now considers South Korea to be a shining example of how to handle an outbreak. In Korean, media now proudly use the word “K-defense” to refer to their containment strategy.

In Beauty, this has also led to the rise of a new generation of skincare dedicated to a more modern twist of skin defense, including the rise of claims on building a natural skin barrier for a maximal protection.

INSIGHT #2: “HYGIENE BURST AND PURE SKIN IS MY NEW QUEST”

Product-wise, several brands offered tools to keep on with daily life while staying protected. Too Cool For School and Chicor boosted their hand sanitizer production to meet the growing demand. The brand BoHo offers new alternatives to purifying air with the Puristic Sterilizing Disinfectant - two ampoules broken at the last minute to clean the air. Caolion even created the V-Shield Sterilization Phone Patch, a phone protection that reduces floating bacteria in the air.

In skincare, the cleansing category also saw an upsurge, as well a peeling products, as the quest for pure skin became at the center of preoccupations.

INSIGHT #3: “HOW DO I DEAL WITH MASKING AND UNDERMASKING?”

Even though Koreans are used to protecting themselves with masks, the everyday usage is changing the rules of beauty and creating new needs. Fashion brand, Greedilous even launched a mask with unique designs and prints, inspired by their Spring Summer collection, priced at 59,000 won ($48), with all proceeds from the sales donated to charity. In April, the Korea Herald titled “masks have become Fashion statements“.

Moreover, skin now presents “undermask” issues (redness, breakouts, dryness, etc.) In South Korea, anti-pollution and acne product sales increased by 42% from February 1st to March 4th, compared to the same period last year (source: Naver).

Primera Repair Bean Cica Essence is infused with soybean and the famous tiger grass to improve damaged skin and enhance the skin’s ability to adapt. In makeup, along with the long lasting or waterproff claims, come the “ask-proof” claims and demonstrations. In makeup, Laneige created a video on Instagram showing how their new Neo Cushion Matte “doesn’t leave any marks on your masks!”

INSIGHT #4: “MY ROUTINE IS DIGITALIZED, HENCE MY SHOPPING BEHAVIOR”

With the COVID outbreak, South Koreans have spent more time on social media and apps, trying to connect with others. As their practices have changed, they seek to more meaningful content and a way to connect with those who share their values.

KPop group BTS performed live on YouTube, and various idols Livestreamed daily on Vlive. Beauty influencers joined, sharing their new tips. To fight social distancing blues, online challenges took platforms like Instagram and TikTok, like the most popular #Dalgonacoffe.

South Korea continues to flourish in retail opening with a focus on entertaining yet touchless experiences. The Lotte Duty Free Shop opened its first “Smart Store”, allowing consumers to scan QR codes for information, reviews or check-out using a mobile shopping cart.

More then ever, South Korea brands are champions of innovation and creativity. They actively disrupt the beauty market and are true sources of inspiration.

Hungry for more K-trend? These insights are excerpt from our latest What’s Up Seoul report, a deep dive into 8 prospective trends. Contact us for a quotation.

TREND ALERT! TIKTOK CHALLENGE "FOX EYES" IS THE NEW BROW LIFT

Source: Youtube / courtesy of Jamie Paige

Created in September 2016, rising social media star TikTok has hacked the Beauty game.

This new social network is becoming a huge beauty playground, a key social media platform for aesthetic inspiration and creative makeup experimentation. During the COVID crisis, TikTok was the house of rising beauty trends, especially in makeup.

Cosmetics Inspiration has released a white paper focusing on TikTok, including a recap of the most exciting beauty trends. One of the rising looks deciphered is the new #FoxEye (68 million views) and #FowEyeChallenge (18 million views). An instant Brow Lift effect obtained by shaving brows or using concealer tricks, and a floating eyebrow effect.

FELINE LOOKS, AND A WIDER CANVAS FOR MAKEUP

It started within the influence of Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, and Kendall Jenner, who most likely all recently underwent Botox brow lifts. The procedure, minimally invasive, has been one of the most popular demands of 2020.

The goal: an instant hack, with maximal effect. The subtle yet increasingly popular procedure creates more defined brow, and a more awake-looking eye area with just a few strategically placed taps of the syringe. The result: a sexier, “foxy” “feline” look. The arches of the brows are floating higher, and eyelids are more visible, therefore creating a larger canvas for eye makeup. The procedure also rejuvenates the forehead and eye areas.

ON TIKTOK: THE TREND RAPIDLY RAISING EYEBROWS

In a previous article, we deciphered the new importance of TikTok for young generations, and especially its huge impact on the Beauty market. With 40% of its users between 16 and 25 years old, TikTok is one of the most addictive social media platforms as 90% of those users go on the app more than once daily (Source: Forbes).

Because Beautistas are always one step ahead when it comes to makeup, it did not take long for the brow lift procedure to be hacked into a makeup routine.

With a huge shock factor (also why most videos went viral), TikTok users are shaving off the outside half of their eyebrows, before using a brow crayon to create a new straighter brow shape from their arches up toward their temples.

Some did even manage to skip the shaving part, like Korean TikTok-ker Daniel Ly (@ogabg), who only used concealer to get the look. The concealer hack, already been viewed over 4.3 million times, consists in an intricate routine of light concealer in five areas: under the outer corner of the eye up through the temple, in the inner corner of the eye, down the side of the nose, around the corner of the nose and under the lower lip line.

2020 AND BEYOND: THE NEW MINIMAL/MAXIMAL

Beauty is opening up to a new imaginative playground mixing nude-like skin (poreless) and maximizing features (with makeup, falsies, or makeup tricks). The fox eye trend embodies this new quest for a minimalistic yet high impact look.

Minimal/Maximal is one of the latest trend deciphered in our USA trend-report, “Reawakening”.

For more information on the report and on our TikTok White Paper, feel free to contact us !

ECO-TRANSMISSION - WHEN SUSTAINABILITY MEETS CULTURAL PRIDE IN South Korea

SS20 Re:code

Since the renewal of the country in the ’60s, South Korean is known for its fast development and constant technologic innovation. In the context of a hyper-digitalization and a strong pressure for efficiency, consumers seek more authenticity and respect in their daily life.

They are increasing looking to move at a slower pace and are looking to create harmony between culture and the planet. New cultural reappropriation is on the rise, especially amongst younger consumers and in the design and fashion arena. 

CULTURAL GATHERING AROUND AUTHENTIC SPACES

In design, art, retail, and architecture, a strong retro trend (Newtro) emerges, an echo to the consumer quest for more authenticity, slowness, and realness. Among the younger generation rises a sense of transmission with the past to anchor a sense of belonging to the Korean culture. We witness the rise of socials salons where people meet to discuss culture and a rise of regenerating spaces rather than the creation of new buildings. 

amore Songsu - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation/@cosmeticseeds

In October, Amore Pacific opened a new space, Amore Seongsu, dedicated to the discovery of their products, products can only be bought online. Presented as a "Healing Space", this new gallery sits in a former car repair shop in the up-and-coming area of Seongsu-dong. 

SLOW CONSUMPTION AND ZERO WASTE

Seoul, like all megacities in the world, is housing new zero waste stores to answer consumer’s increasing demand for more sustainable solutions. In the Seongsu area, called the Brooklyn of Seoul, healthy and sustainable stores pop up all around the neighborhood. Artists are opening ateliers, concept stores, and cafes that reflect a need for slow consumption. 

Source: Picer Korea

Alongside with this more cautious consumption is the rise of zero-waste initiatives. In 2018, a zero-waste global organization created "Wasteupso" in Seoul, a web store promoting a better way to use our daily product. It aims to become a brick and mortar sustainable place. Another, Picker Korea, opened in Seongsu a zero-waste shop and cafe also selling zero water shampoos like Plein de Vie. 

SUSTAINABLE LEADING 

Today, waste is one of the biggest problems for fashion and beauty. From creation to packaging, all the supply chain is coming up with solutions to change their impact on the world. To change the mentality, new initiatives take place in Korea, particularly in Seoul. 

Back in 2017, Seoul Upcycling Plaza was installed in Seongdong-guto to raise awareness on upcycling solutions, with conferences providing tangible ideas for the day-to-day behavior. For its second anniversary, the Seoul Upcycling Festival included various lectures, forums, and visitor-friendly programs. 

RE:code, the pioneer of sustainable fashion in Korea, took it a step further. For the SS20 fashion show, the brand welcomes guests to the showroom to discuss its approach to upcycling. As for the past collection, Kolon Industries (owner of Re:code), creates brand new designs with waste from unsold apparel. "Everything is crafted into something new", claims the brand. Additionally, RE:code employs North Korean asylum seekers, adding to their environment benefit a holistic approach to production.  

ECO-TRANSMISSION is a trend from Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest What's Up Korea trend reports, Makeup & Skincare. If you wish to order the upcoming report, contact the agency for more information.

TikTok - The Rising Star Of Social Beauty

What is happening on social media tells a lot about our society and the way people communicate. Just as society and its beauty standards constantly evolve, so too do the trends in social media continue to change. During the COVID crisis, social media engagement increased by 61%, and messaging across Facebook, Instagram and WhatsApp expanded by 40%+ among people ages 35 years and under (source: study on 25,000 consumers across 30 markets by Kantar).

The latest phenomenon: the video app TikTok, from the Chinese company Bytedance. With 40% of its users between 16 and 25 years old, it is also one of the most addictive social media plateforms as 90% of those users go on the app more than once daily (Source: Forbes).

Created in September 2016, this platform has now expanded its usage beyond Gen Z and reached 2 billion downloads, making it the most downloaded app in March 20202.

Source: Sensortower.com

Why is TikTok Hot?
TikTok is an interactive world of videos, with strong creative content that lets users connect with friends and admirers through likes, comments and hashtags. Compared to other social media, TikTok is about real-life authenticity, which proposes exhilarating challenges. It is crossing age and social boundaries as a way to express one’s true individuality. While much of the content uploaded to Instagram and YouTube is polished to perfection, TikTok — and its users — embrace silliness and fun with high expectation for serious value of some kind.

TikTok - Escape, Bonding and More

During the health crisis, TikTok provided an entertaining escape in times of anxiety as a way to connect with others in a hedonistic way. Just like Zoom, this is one of the platforms that have seen an acceleration in times when people missed social interaction the most. While a lot of individuals use the platforms for entertainment, the channel also provides a source for information and a way to take a voice in these difficult times. The World Health Organization (WHO) debuted on TikTok in February with a video on "How to Protect Yourself from the Coronavirus". The organization captures 2,2 million followers and 7,5 million likes.

TikTok - The New Influencer Playground.

TikTok is a new space for beauty conversation, with a high level of engagement. According to Talking Influencer, on TikTok, anyone can be an influencer. “Their algorithm gives every content creator the potential to go viral, whether they have 50 followers or 500,000 followers". This makes it one of the most accessible platforms for influencer marketing. The numbers skyrocketed,  like Abby Roberts (@abburartistery) with 327 million likes and 8,4 million followers. Power influencers now add this social media channel to their communication portfolio (like @KylieJenner with 79 million likes and 11 million followers.

TikTok - The Challenge Signature

The lockdown was also a driver for beauty conversation on social media and more importantly on TikTok. Through the challenges, people have created exciting experiments of beauty transformation. The latest craze: #tinyfacechallenge which surpassed 7 million views. In a period when people need to wear mask, people transform their features and create noses and lips on the upper part of their faces. It is also an interesting way to make fun of the new normal of wearing masks and to escape from the pressure of these difficult times.

TikTok - The New Tone of Beauty and Wellness Brands

Beauty brands have initiated their presence in this new arena, but still need to tailor messaging, their tone, specific to this social network. Brands such as ELF and Too Faced have actively created challenges.

Interesting initiatives have built around #ASMR, Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response, or ASMR, defined as content that evokes “light and pleasurable waves of relaxation in the head, neck, spine and throughout the rest of the body.” Brands including Huda Beauty, Sephora, Milk Makeup, ColourPop, Tarte Cosmetics, and Glow Recipe have posted TikTok videos tagged as #ASMR since March. In total, 22.7 billion views around this hashtag.

Embed Block

Add an embed URL or code. Learn more

In a nutshell, the landscape of beauty continues to evolve and some of the new social interactions initiated during lockdown, are certainly here to stay. This rising star in the social media arena reflects the changes taking place in beauty and the amazing influence of GenZ in the future of beauty.

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we source our inspiration from the various platforms that are reshaping beauty. To get more insights, ask us for our TikTok White paper.

Meet the Maker - Emmanuel Rey - The Yoga Sensei Behind Yuni Skincare

Emmanuel Rey - Co-Founder of Yuni Skincare

With the rise of Wellness, the face of beauty is morphing, and some indie brands have realized the importance of adapting the products to a change in consumer habits and the rise of more conscious consumption. Since the  launch of the brand back in 2015, we spotted Yuni Skincare a line of healthy, natural skincare and body products that save time, restore health, and relieve stress. Created by a couple of natural beauty pioneers and yoga teachers, Emmanuel Rey and Suzanne Dawson, the brand was one of the first offering a holistic vision of beauty, back when athleisure was booming in fashion, as well as indie brands in beauty. Our first encounter with the brand was in a Yoga space and since then, the brand has rolled out in major retailers, from clean retailers (Credo, The Detox Market) to retailers featuring clean retail brands, such as Target or Ulta.  In February, Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation had the pleasure to meet Emmanuel Rey, Co-founder of Yuni Skincare. A discussion that turned into an e-conversation during the confinement, a time of difficulty for all entrepreneurs. But also, a time of generosity as the company decided to send Yuni products to Four hospitals in New-York, collaborating to the effort and bringing comfort to those helping others.  

Namasté 🙏🏻Emmanuel for taking some of your precious time to answer our questions and for sharing your experience.

Leila: Yuni is quite a unique brand inspired by Yoga practices and a pioneer in clean beauty. What was your inspiration and how did you come up with this unique project?

Emmanuel: My partner Suzanne and I have worked in cosmetics for over 25 years, including 10 years at Aveda (Estee Lauder Companies) where she was Senior Vice President of Marketing and I was General Manager of North America. (ndlr: Aveda was one of the first companies responsible and using plant-based ingredients for beauty in the USA). When we left the corporate world in 2012, we decided to take a trip around the world and ended up becoming Ashtanga Yoga teachers in Greece. Beyond the unique experience of this moment, we realized the rise of athleisure brands in fashion, clothing adapted to active lifestyle such as Lululemon, Sweaty Betty, Lorna Jane, or Athleta.  But there was nothing in beauty. Our fellow students told us that they could not find brands that match their values and that understand their lifestyle. We ran in-depth studies and realized that active people like us were looking for natural and respectful solutions to save time, restore health and relieve stress. We started to think of solutions for these needs and this is how we created YUNI Beauty.

“active people like us were looking for natural and respectful solutions to save time, restore health and relieve stress.”

— Emmanuel Rey

L: A lot of Indie Beauty brands have immerged on the West Coast, especially in recent years. As a French native, living in the USA, why is California the new “gold mine” of beauty?

E: In the case of beauty and wellness, California has a lot of advantages. First of all, Californians are by nature interested in everything related to body and mind. It is a country in itself (38 million inhabitants) with a great diversity and a strong purchasing power. In addition, it is definitely a “trend-setter” for North America and sometimes for the world, especially in terms of consumption. Finally, it is a breeding ground for micro-enterprises and investors. It is also a region with a very pleasant quality of life and beautiful nature.

L: Mindfulness is becoming a major wave, all around the world. Anxiety has been growing as a key issue for urban consumers and with the recent covid crisis, brands that answer the need for recovery, mindfulness, will certainly receive positive consumer response. What are the most innovative products in your lines? How do you get your inspiration from?

E: We draw our inspiration from our own needs of tomorrow and from what we think are the questions without real answers. For us, lack of idea is never the problem. For YUNI, the concept of “Mindfulness' applies not only to create products which address the body and the mind, but also in the way we conceive them (natural ingredients, sustainable development), manufacture them ( factories with solar or wind energy, responsible packaging) and distribute them (from prestige to masstige, putting well-being within everyone's reach). For us "mindfulness" is a way of being fully aware of our actions. We strive to bring systematic innovation to all our products (what would be the reason otherwise?). For example, we see a real need for better quality sleep. In the United States, people sleep an average of 6 to 7 hours, often poorly, and often wake up. This is the reason we created several sleep products based on aromatherapy (Pillow Spray), the addition of recognized ingredients (Ashwaganda root, Melatonin…) in body products (Bedtime body essence) or the blend of plant-based ingredients (Passionflower, Gaba, L-tryptophan…) in an oral spray (Slumber oral spray) to use just before going to bed.

“ For us “mindfulness” is a way of being fully aware of our actions. ”

— Emmanuel Rey

L: When we met in LA, you mentioned how your day to day work and organization being flexible, working mostly from home. Far away from the traditional “office” and hierarchical companies of the past. Today, with the Covid Crisis, a lot of people are forced to work from their homes. Do you believe this is the model for the future?

E: In our case, it was due to severall factors: management of fixed costs during the launch phase, distances and chronic traffic jams in Los Angeles, access to talent. The time spent driving a car in Los Angeles is very unproductive and a source of stress. Many people are declared as self-employed, so we  have access to experienced people on an ad hoc or part-time basis. This type of staff does not require close management or direct training. We have now powerful communication tools available that allow this kind of approach. It takes a bit of practice, especially to establish a real human relationship, but I found this system quite ideal. I did not know that this would allow us to function without a hitch during this period of confinement.

L: We all hope that the post-confinement phase will happen soon but today, this is the new normality for a lot of people in the world. What would be the top  products from YUNI you would recommend and why?

E: In this very particular period, it seems to me that several YUNI products are relevant: Shower sheets or Flash Bath No Rinse for cleanliness, Count to Zen for restoring moisture loss due to frequent and was, My OM world to help relax, refresh and reset, Pocket Savasana for staying calm and meditate, Sleepy Beauty a Bedtime body essence to sleep well.

I would add the Sleepy Beauty Bakuchiol + biotic serum that we just launched. This serum brings real well-being to the skin and in these tough times, it is something that we all really need it.

To dive into YUNI’s world of beauty, have a look at their Instagram and visit www.Yunibeauty.com

Want more of the scoop on the clean beauty scene? Take a look at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s special dossier on clean beauty within its latest USA makeup inspiration report and contact the agency for more information.

THE NEW FACE OF GREEN BEAUTY IN BRAZIL

Simple Organic - courtesy of the brand

The consumption of natural, vegan and sustainable cosmetics continues to grow around the world, and same goes for Brazil, one of the biggest beauty market out there, as well as one of the richest country in Biodiversity. Despite the country's current economic recession, the beauty market grew about 10% in 2019, according to the company Sebrae, with numbers that surpass US$ 30 billion dollars. Aware of the global environmental crisis, and knowing that the devastation of Amazonian Forest has a big impact on global warming, the majority of Brazilians are and always have been more concerned of sustainable practices. Dive into the latest Brazilian trends and inspiring brands to follow.

BRAZIL: BUT FIRST, NUMBERS

According to data from the company Nielsen, 42% of Brazilian consumers changed somehow their consumption habits to reduce their impact on the environment, while 30% of interviewed pay attention to the ingredients and components of products.

Awareness among consumption is also significant: 58% do not buy products from companies that perform test on animal, anda glowing 65% do not buy from companies associated with unethical labor practices. 

According to the UEBT Barometer, 91% of Brazilians say it is important for them to contribute personally to preserving biodiversity and they expect companies to inform them on their concrete actions towards biodiversity preservation (88%). They are also increasingly interested in transparency and authenticity.

FROM CRISTAL MUNIZ TO MARTHA PEDALINO, THE FACES OF ZERO-WASTE INFLUENCE

In 2014, influencer Cristal Muniz decided to radically change her consumption habits and stop producing garbage. She created Uma Vida Sem Lixo (‘a life without trash’), a blog-diary to report her transition and spread dozens of recipes to swap and clean products and/or cosmetics. Today, what started as a diary is now a media with over 3 million visits, and Cristal has released a book and two ebooks.

And she is not the only zero-waste source of inspiration for Brazilians. It was on a trip to China that designer Martha Pedalino (@ajuntalocal) approached the culture of “Dao” - a Chinese expression for “tea ceremony” - and developed a passion for the centuries-old tradition of producing and consuming plants for medicinal use. Returning to Brazil, Martha started selling organic teas and body mists, leading to the explosion of ther own brand that expanded to cosmetics, a massively followed online presence and natural skincare workshops.

BRAZILIAN NATURAL DISRUPTION : 7 MUST FOLLOW

• TERRAL - BRAZILNESS SENSORIALITY

courtesy of the brand

The brand was created from the desire to use clean, natural, organic and nutritious products for the body. The scents are all made from pure essential oils, and preservatives used are pure and from nature, such as propolis, rosemary oil, tea tree oil. TERRAL offers a true sensory experience through its balms and body creams. Star product: the paste deodorant that, in addition to retain moisture, soothes inflamed skin.

Website / Instagram: @terralnatural

• BAIMS - BIODIVERSITY HEROE

courtesy of the brand

BAIMS is committed to a more fair and ethical world and to contribute to the maintenance of biodiversity on our planet. All products are organic, vegan, cruelty free, and the packaging, made with bamboo, is 100% recyclable. It is the first brand to use BBA ™ - BioBehenic Active, an active derivative of Pentaclethra Macroloba (Pracaxi) that has natural brigthening properties.

Highlights: Baims lipsticks, highly moisturizing yet on the “dirty nudes” side with edgy, discreet colors even for those who like dark tones.

Website / Instagram: @baimsnaturalmakeup

• ALMANATI - RECYCLING BEAUTY

courtesy of the brand

Also 100% natural, organic and cruelty-free. Almanati's packaging are either made of paper or produced from a derivative of sugar cane, both 100% recyclable. In addition, it contains raw materials from biodynamic agriculture, which respects the relationship between the living beings present in agricultural practice.

One of its biggest key difference: waterless formulas, substituted by aloe vera extract, such as the facial moisturizing cream, the facial cream gel, the moisturizing man facial cream and the hydrating body lotion.

Website / Instagram: @almanatibr

• SIMPLE ORGANIC - PLANT BASED EXPERT

courtesy of the brand

When founder Patricia Lima became a mother, she realized that she couldn’t use several products. She then founded Simple Organic, aiming to democratize natural beauty through organic and vegan products.

Must try: The Eye Balm, formulated with hyaluronic acid, sunflower oil and essential oils of lavender and chamomile.

Website / Instagram: @simpleorganic

• BIOART - BIODEGRADABLE GENTLENESS

courtesy of the brand

After having several allergies due to toxic cosmetics, Soraia Zonta mixed her own concerns with Nature’s treasures and created BioArt. Since 2010, the brand develop safe makeup with natural and organic assets. Another key concern of the brand: having formulations that produce waste able to return pure to nature, without polluting neither water nor soil.

Highlight: the bio-nourishing blush, formulated with a mix of different clays and tapioca as a powerful pigment. Can be used as a shadow or on the lips, if mixed with gloss.

Website / Instagram: @bioart

courtesy of the brand

• CARE Natural Beauty

Carrying the slogan of slow beauty - cosmetics that do not harm the environment, the company was launched in 2018, with products free of toxins, chemical components and heavy metals. In addition, they are vegan and cruelty-free. Star product: Care Natural Beauty's Multifunctional Blush, a cream-in-powder that melts when meeting skin. Enriched with natural vitamin E, grape seed oil, coconut oil and cupuaНu butter.

Website / Instagram: @carenaturalbeauty

As expert in trends, our agency has explored the worldwide expression of the Clean and Natural Beauty movement. Thanks to our Brazilian team member, Luisa, we are now exploring the new natural disruption happening in Brazil.

Contact us for more information.

RADICAL REINVENTION: DISRUPTING THE NEXT DECADE OF BEAUTY

Source: istock/@jeffbergen

Beauty is an ever-changing industry. Yet some changes make more of an impact than others. The more society changes, the more these changes cascade into the Beauty market.

During the last MAD conference of the Premium Beauty News in Paris, Leila Rochet, Founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, offered a keynote on how radical changes will be infusing the future of the beauty industry. “At the eve of the new decade, we are entering an era of Radical Reinvention that will influence the future of our industry”, explained Leila. This article is an extract of the presentation made at the end February 2020 in Paris.

As we enter a new decade, key contemporary shifts are impacting consumer behavior. We have entered an era where savvy consumers wish to be treated as individuals, where transparency is key, and where trust is the new currency. In this context, and even more in the light of the recent sanitary events, we will be witnessing major shifts affecting our Beauty industry and its future.

1. RADICAL BALANCE

The Standard Dose NYC - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

In the post-wellness world, balance is only the first step towards a more beautiful self.

In retail, new spaces to restore from urban anxiety invoke calm, quiet, coziness, and intimacy.

From global wellness to intimate wellness, latest developments show the need to reconnect with our most intimate self - our instincts, our emotions, our cycles, our sexual wellness. New indies brands like Dame Products are a declaration of sexual independence and health through pleasure. Cycle-oriented brands like Knours celebrates the female body in all its stages and hormones. The boom of CBD showed just how far destressing skin could go, and consumers are no longer scared when it comes to alternative ingredients.

Balance is shifting to mysticism, infused by a wave of witchy feminism and zodiac codes. It is this new era of New Age, the Gen Z especially have a mystical-driven culture. According to the Fullscreen Report, over a quarter of millennials agree that “horoscopes and astrology influence my purchasing decisions”.

2. RADICAL ENHANCEMENT

The Clean Market NYC - Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Tech and wellness are merging, creating human-centered tech, dedicated to skin perfection like a work of art. How is this new? Even more natural consumers are switching to this trend, which we mentioned in our previous article, Skin-icone Valley.

Injections bars and IV-on-the-go centers look like a mindful Glossier. They attract consumers who look for radical solutions or “tweakments”, that are perceived as taboo-free for the younger generations. The nomads turn to the hyaluropen. Less invasive touch ups are booming, and Beauty nurses are taking Instagram by storm (like @facebypinkie) and 3D printing technology inspired by advanced medical treatment. are offered in Spa (eg. Biologique Recherche).

3. RADICAL FREEDOM

Source: @jstyle_evellet.

We have shifted from the era of standard beauty, where brands were imposing beauty codes, to an era of self-acceptance of one’s singular beauty, where brands need to service consumers as individuals. Inclusivity is now longer a trend. It is a standard.

Consumers want brands to recognize diversity and help them celebrate every inch of their flaws or imperfection (face, body, skin). They increasingly look for brands that they can connect with, seeking brands driven by “human values”, while they themselves act like brands. Contemporary consumers see freedom as essential - freedom to experience (rather than possess), freedom to consume as they wish (and not just in traditional spaces), freedom of reflecting one’s true self (or at least the self you chose to portray thanks to the filters!).

Beauty becomes a symbol of change, everywhere in the world. From the plus size brand Jstyle Evelett in Korea (see our article here of female empowerment) to Naomi Watanabe for Shu Uemura. With the strong claim “a lipstick that makes the difference”, indie brand the Lipstick Lobby embodies the trend, with activist lipsticks that share profits with various American non-profits. Another recent example is the activist brand Lipslut that will be donating 100% of its profits to nonprofits such as the CDC Foundation (helping those impacted by the coronavirus).

Brands need to recognize they are not ruling what the beauty standards are anymore. Instead, they need to promote freedom of what consumers want.

4. RADICAL REGENERATION

The Detox Market, NYC- Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

According to the study of JWT, 90% of consumers agree that companies/brands have a responsibility to take care of the planet and its people. So consumers buy according to their convictions, they also expect brands to be purpose-driven.

We have entered a post-green era: the Greta effect, the fires in Australia, and other sanitary crisis are changing the game. As sustainability becomes the new normal, Beauty brands will need to meet consumers request for performance as well as a better tomorrow for all. The sustainable factor should not be hidden. It needs to be highlighted to boost desire. New Indie brands, such as Amalthea in France, offer upscale refillable solutions, as a natural service consistent with their values and missions statements.

The next step will ne longer be waste free, carbon neutrality, or recyclable beauty. It will be about making the necessary changes to enrich the world (or at least take action for the embetterment of tomorrow). The Detox Market launched a new initiative called the Earth CPR, taking action to become more sustainable as a business. Their objective is to become carbon negative by planting 500,000 trees this year and 2.5 million by 2025. “One thing we’ve been great at as a company is to make people aware of toxicity in personal care. Our next mission is to encourage people to switch to sustainable products. It’s clean beauty times 10,” says Romain Gaillard, founder of the Detox Market (Source: Beauty Independent).

Radical Reinvention is also the title of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest USA trend reports, Makeup & Skincare. If you wish to know more on each of these trends, contact the agency for more information.

SKIN-ICONE VALLEY: WHEN SKIN MEETS TECH

Photo Credits: @ P&G Opté

In 2020, tech is evolving. Now going hand in hand with wellness, innovations in the beauty category are propelled by technology. Data-driven tools, sex-tech, disruptive apps, IoT , AR, AI... From new devices presented at tech conferences to in-store intelligent tools, the tech revolution is changing the skin game. Dive in the new territories of Radical Reinvention.

Female Wellness on the rise

During the last Las Vegas CES conference, the best of innovations were introduced to tech-lovers. What was even more surprising was how tech had deeply been infused with wellness. Sex-tech only is a booming market, worth $32 billion in 2019 according to a recent study by the market research firm Technavio. During the CES, smart-vibrator company Lioness was a finalist for CES’ Last Gadget Standing award, thanks to its groundbreaking tools. Lioness’s smart vibrators use data to improve orgasms by tracking tension, temperature and pressure and syncing it to an app. Moreover, sexual wellness is increasingly associated with self-care, and even, with skin glow! Just like the effect of CBD, endorphins (Nature’s happiness) are expected to boost inner glow.

NASA-LIKE HOME THERAPIES

Data-driven approach of Beauty have also upgraded both Beauty services and products, as consumers can now self-measure their own face and body through connected objects. Innovative at-home options are rolling out at a rapid rate, like the new Genius Mask by Talika, based on NASA research, the first multifunction mask combining light therapy and electrostimulation, with a various choice of beauty care programmes (lifting, firming, toning etc.)

Source: sohu.com

Neutrogena Skin360TM and SkinScanner (Powered by FitSkin) is going further with a tool that directly empowers the Beauty user thanks to deep learning. This recent model is an upgrade of the model presented at the CES2019 and is able to analyze more than 100,000 skin pixels and deciphers the composition of skin with over 2,000 facial attributes. The app, now available on AppStore and Google Play helps track skin's progress everyday. The more the merrier: the more skin-data the tool will get, the more the app will be fueled, and be able to formulate made-to-measure recommendations.

Source: Neutrogena

Deep learning can also be adapted to smart and hyper-customized makeup. P&G Opte Precision System presented at the CES2020 (upgraded version) is a portable inkjet to achieve flawless complexion. The Opte wand scans the skin with an enhanced digital camera that captures 200 frames per second and instantly analyzes each image using a proprietary algorithm to detect tonal imperfections, not visible to the human eye. Than the custom thermal inkjet printer deposites picolitre droplets of Spot Optimizing Serum on target areas until there is a perfect color match with the surrounding skin tone.

P&G Opte Precision System - Source: P&G Press Release

MORPHING BEAUTY SERVICES

Paradoxically, digital technologies have made in-store experience more and more important. Especially for Gen Zers who thrives on pop-ups and new spaces. Retailer are now using Augmented Reality to enhance this experience, with AR mirror and 3D tools dedicated to beauty lovers.

Source: The Light Salon - Facebook

In the area of beauty services, we are witnessing the arrival of Light Salon services, home of LED technologies. At Harvey Nichols London or in several Nordstrom in the U.S., the Light Salon uses LED technologies and promises a “non-invasive, pain-free solution for the prevention and repair of ageing or damaged skin”. The company launched an at-home LED Mask Boost, made of soft silicone, to provide the necessary dose of light therapy at home (also proposed for the decolletage). At the Nordstrom beauty service area, the Light Salon space carry a special edition of the Nuori skincare line, so that tech can be complimented by a clean beauty regimen.

“Technology is infusing the skincare and wellness category. New efficient alternatives are now servicing an ever more savvy consumer. Brands need to rethink their innovation process in the light of these new tools, from product innovation, to services and in-store experience. Consumer-centric technologies will certainly change the landscape of beauty during this new decade” comments Leila Rochet, Founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Learn more on how skin meets technology in the latest trend report Radical Reinvention - Skincare Edition, created by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency. If you wish to know more about this trend or the full report, feel free to contact the agency.