TIKTOK INSPIRATIONaL trends BEAUTY TRENDS - # january23

@hayley_bui /@garabceluru/ @zoekimkenealy - TikTok

No social platform has impacted Beauty quite in the way that TikTok has. The platform’s unique algorithm allows for any creator (be it a big brand or unique user) to go viral, propelling the site’s reputation as a space for discovery.

TikTok-onomics

Over half of all users (52%) now say they discover new products on the platform, a behavior that has shifted TikTok from a social network to an experiential media. Its influence on beauty trends, the success of new brands, the revival of long-forgotten products and the reinvention of heritage brands is propelling the industry to new levels of innovation and creativity. Based on our ranking on the total of followers, Huda Beauty is the #1 ranked Beauty brand on TikTok, with 8.4 million followers and 173.2 million likes. Next, is Kylie Cosmetics with 3.4 million followers and 24.4 million likes, followed by Florence By Mills at #3 (2.8 million followers and 47.2 million likes), Kaja at #4 (1.7 million followers and 25.4 million likes) and Fenty at #5 (1.5 million followers and 24.5 million likes).

Below, discover 3 key TikTok trends in January to inspire new beauty directions over the year ahead:  

1- I’M COLD

The counter-response to last summer’s sunburn blush trend is this season’s “I’m Cold” makeup. With over 234.8M views on TikTok, #Imcoldmakeup is defined by flushed rosy cheeks, a red-tipped nose, frosted lids and clear or frost-bitten lips. 

Much like the Clean Girl trend, the wintery makeup look is about enhancing the natural flush through elevated artistry. Blush is the key product here, which is applied on the apples of the cheeks upwards, across the bridge of the nose and to the tip. Some TikTokkers are even recreating chapped lips by applying cream blush around the lip line. 

Influencers to follow:

@zoekimkenealy #greenscreen I think this is my favorite TikTok I’ve ever made even tho I felt so basic going outside and taking selfies with my Starbucks it was also the highlight of my day hehe it’s Makeup for serotonin feels and hallmark movie time! It’s the im cold it’s winter and the holidays and fall makeup look tutorial. #wintermakeup #fallmakeuplook #coldmakeup #maccosmetics #benefitcosmetics #makeupforever #wintermakeuplook ♬ august - Taylor Swift

@trulue THIS IS THE CUTEST MAKEUP LOOK!!❄️ @zoekimkenealy you’re beautiful and this idea is amazing💖 #blush #viralmakeup #makeuptutorial #grwm ♬ Ice Dance (From "Edward Scissorhands") - Ashton Gleckman

Rising Hashtags:

#Imcoldmakeup: 234.8M / #wintermakeup: 192.6M views

2 - CRYING MAKEUP

Another trend propelled by TikTok MUA Zoe Kim Kenealy, “Crying Makeup” recreates the effects of a post-crying face - typified by a tear-streaked complexion, red eyes, smudged liner, and flushed cheeks. 

In Kenealy’s viral tutorial, she uses blush to create a soft redness around the eyes, nose, and cheeks while applying a liquid, glitter eyeshadow to make the eyes appear teary. Glitter gel is also applied to the face to replicate tears, while lips are smudged with lipstick and gloss. Key products include Fenty Beauty’s Double Cheek’d Up - a limited-edition duo of cream blush shades -  AMTS Liquid Glitter Shadow in 02, NYX Professional Makeup Slide On Lip Pencil, and EM Cosmetics Soft Spoken Lips in Manifest and Intuition. About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss is applied for a wet-look shine on the eyelids, cheeks, and cupid’s bow.

Influencers to follow:

@zoekimkenealy #greenscreen crying makeup look tutorial 😅 Can I go as a crying person for Halloween or is that not a thing #cryingmakeup #tearmakeup #cryingeyes #makeupforhalloween ♬ Show Me How (Album V) - Men I Trust

@karikarikari im sure a look like this is useful for something?? #fyp #makeup #grwm ♬ Woozy - Glass Animals

Rising Hashtags:

#cryingmakeuptutorial: 25.3B views / #makeupgirlcrying: 91.1M views / #crygirlmakeup: 101.3M views

3 - DISAPPEARING BROWS

 From bleached brows to no brows, TikTokkers move the statement brow into another dimension by removing them altogether. The latest evolution in the brow trend cycle, sees brows disappear as bold TikTokkers move on from laminated, fluffy, and super-skinny to play with a more experimental new look. 

Doja Cat spurred the trend when she recently shaved off her brows and replaced them with drawn-on abstract shapes and colours, paving the way for TikTok creators to experiment with their own artistic no-brow looks. Cue TikTokkers sharing ‘shaving’ videos as they remove their own brows and play with a more extreme beauty narrative, some other present tutorials using correctors and concealers to create the #disappearingbrows look.

Influencers to follow:

@torycarrasco #makeuptutorial #noeyebrows ♬ Twist - Korn

@madykennedy Part 2- Coloir correcting the brows to make them ✨disappear✨ #browblocking #makeuptips #creativemakeup ♬ original sound - madykennedy

Rising Hashtags:

#eyebrowsdisappear: 9.7B views / #eyebrowdisappearfilter: 71.1M views / #missingeyebrowfilter: 5.8M views / #missingeyebrow: 5.7M views/

#noeyebrowstrend: 241.1M views

THE CIC Take

Beauty trends are increasingly being shaped and propelled by peer-to-peer communities, with TikTok the favored platform for interaction, advice, inspiration and education.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our new Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok January 2023)

The Age of Connection: 5 Predictions for 2023 and Beyond

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation presents 5 key predictions that will shape the Beauty industry in 2023 and beyond, as we look ahead with optimism, creativity and conviction. 

Through a period of polycrisis, consumers are discovering strengths that they never knew they had. They are more resilient, more adaptable and more connected than they ever realised.  And if recent global events have proven anything, it is that health, freedom, and the future of the planet are all deeply interwoven.  The success of one relies on the success of another. 

“Our future is symbiotic. And yet, the desire for individual recognition and expression remains a prescient driver.  As we move forward, consumers will continue to explore the special tension that exists between collective responsibility and personal growth, and between the quest for the optimised self and for globalised empathy,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. 

For a deep dive into 4 of these key trends, we hope you can join us at the next edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles, on February 16 & 17 2023. Leila Rochet will be hosting a series of Beauty Talks where she will be joined by industry insiders to explore many of the themes outlined below. See the trends illustrated through the latest products sourced from all over the globe at our Inspiration Bar.

Book your place here!

The predictions:

1. Eco-Collectivism: From Sustainability to Augmented Empathy

Armed with increased knowledge, consumers will drive brands even harder to alter their behaviours in order to recenter humanity, source with respect, honour community and support rigorous ethical practices. In 2023 brands must become empathetic ambassadors, and respond to a new generation of eco-socio intellectuals. 

Results from the 2022 UEBT Biodiversity Barometer demonstrate there is now a global consensus that while planetary health is a clear priority in the minds of consumers, so are issues surrounding workers' rights and equality. Sustainability issues are now rightly being understood in the context of wider geo-political events. Taking a strong stand on bio-diversity, French brand Eclo is a clean eco-native that only works with ingredients that are local to its Brittany HQ and which also help regenerate the soil and the seabed. 

Taking a collective responsibility approach, Indigenous-owned brands often balance respect for nature with individual growth. Operating within this type of intrinsically holistic value system The Yukon Soaps Company uses native, wild botanicals hand-picked by elders and local young people. The brand teaches harvesting practices that foster an emotional connection to the land. Through these shared experiences, the company triggers acts of healing within the Yukon community. 

2.  Artphoria: From Colour-Dosing to Creative-Finessing

Gen Z’s takeover of social media has created a space where niche is the norm, and micro-expressions are the new mainstream. This mindset shapes a new generation of beauty connoisseurs, who bring a fine art approach and an exacting attitude to the beauty sphere. As consumer confidence grows and their skills continue to develop thanks to the TikTok explosion, we see a growing desire to express individuality through exquisite artistry. 

Daring to be rare is something to be encouraged by brands, and those that speak to individuality and trigger creativity through wild innovation will gain traction. Pleasing is a brand that inspires consumers to master micro-artistry, coupled with an approach that is embracive of every identity. Its ultra-inclusive storytelling paves the way for a “Flat Age Society” where traditional age segmentation has diminishing influence. Pleasing also encapsulates another key element - escapism. 

3. Future ArchiTech: From Innovation Hunters to Progress Pioneers

The answer to tomorrow's challenges lies in adopting a science-first and solution-focused approach. This mindset is permeating the beauty sector, where radical innovation is welcomed by today’s logical and results-driven consumers. Younger generations are facing global challenges with a practical mindset, leaning into science and technology to forge world-changing solutions. STEM careers (science, technology, engineering and maths) are now the  #1 attraction for Gen Z, according to a recent study, with particular popularity among females and people of colour. 

Brands must embrace this appetite for innovation, leaning into other categories for inspiration to deliver game-changing solutions. Aeir is one such beauty brand that is using the latest technology to develop future-facing products. Combining their experiences at Tesla and the École Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne (ECAL), the brand founders have created a next-gen wellness fragrance that utilises NASA technology, zero extraction, bioengineering and generations-old craftsmanship.

Engineered nature will also propel the sustainability narrative in 2023, as more brands invest in bio-science innovation to deliver smart, and green, solutions. In 2022 we saw Ulé (France) and Monday Musem (South Korea) lead the way with the adoption of vertical farming techniques. At Ulé, experts create plant extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris, which allows the brand to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant in the process. Monday Museum’s Pink Inspiration Cream Drop uses red clovers cultivated using smart farm technology that is said to save up to 70% energy.

4. The Optimised Self:  Exploring the Personal Ecosystem

We are entering an era of intimately adaptive beauty that responds to the individual or is tailored specifically for individual needs.  Deep care is delivered on both an emotional and physical level as personal healing becomes a priority. Science and technology are leveraged to understand and accentuate your individuality, with an emphasis on inner beauty rather than aesthetic transformations.

The continued fetishization of health and immunity will drive the creation of unexpected territories, ushering in new opportunities for beauty supplements, skin-optimising trackers, AI-aided personalization, and at-home beauty devices that deliver ultra-bespoke and professional results. In fact, consumer interest in beauty tech is set to continue to increase continuously over the next five years, reaching $8.93 billion by 2026.

With personal growth and self-improvement becoming central drivers, brands are expanding the opportunities for health and well-being optimization. Homecare brand byMATTER has added a bio-active bedding collection to its range of cleaning products, which is designed to optimise skin health. Pillowcases made from Seawell, an innovative material formulated with seaweed and enriched with collagen, facilitate an exchange of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants between fabric and skin while users are asleep.

Providing a wellness wearable that restores inner balance, Lokai is a holistic bracelet infused with white beads that contain Himalayan water (a ‘high’ ingredient) and black beads containing clay sourced from the Dead Sea (a ‘low’ ingredient). The idea is that the secret ingredients will keep wearers hopeful and humble, accordingly. 

5. The Emotional Biome: From Self-Care to Mind-Care 

In a world that is perceived as super fragile, there is a heightened focus on mental wellness, brain care and psychological healing. Beauty that delivers emotional benefits on top of functional benefits will gain traction, as consumers look to balance feelings of vulnerability with products and experiences that simultaneously provide care and protection.

Consumers will also use beauty as a means of expressing their innermost feelings, as they re-focus on personal growth and inner tranquillity. The role of functional fragrances will become heightened, as consumers and brands explore the idea that perfume can deliver benefits that go way beyond scent.  This is an idea explored by American light artist  James Turrell who has developed a collection of crystal light panels and perfumes for Lalique, which play on the abstract concept of the light we see in our dreams. Turrell brings this ethereal quality to life in the form of tangible colour but also in the form of an abstract emotion, pushing “beyond what we think we know”.

Beauty imbued with cerebral and cognitive influence will play to the growing brain care category. Brain health supplements are forecast to grow at a CAGR of 8.3% from 2022 to 2030, as consumers explore new routes to optimise mind-care.

(Image: Anna Shvets via Pixels)

FROM LIVING WELL TO AGEING WEll…WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO GROW OLD?

Cottonbro - Via Pexels

Anti-aging is often cited as a top concern among beauty consumers, and yet, the very definition of what it means to age (and specifically to “get old”) is changing. A recent survey by Toluna x Harris Interactive reveals French consumers’ shifting perceptions of aging.

This interesting survey provides numerous insights on consumers perception and attitude towards ageing. We made a deep dive into the published results to highlight the report’s key takeaways and explore what this means for the Beauty industry.

The perception of ageing - a state of mind

According to the French, it’s impossible to assign a number to old age. When asked at what age one can consider someone as “being old”, 50% refuse to give a precise answer. However, on average, most respondents consider “old” to be 68 years, although this estimation differs widely depending on the age of the respondent (ranging from an average of 58 years for those under 35 to 74 years for those 65 and over). The perception of what it means to “be old” also depends on the social context. In a corporate context, the French consider the threshold to be lower at 54 years.

In fact, in the eyes of the French, age is much more a question of state of mind (85%) or state of health (81%) than chronological age (50%). Younger people, on the other hand, attach much more importance to age (73% among 18–24-year-olds).

Ageing synonymous of positive values

The French express a very optimistic image of maturity. For them, being ”old” means above all being able to pass on their life experience to others (88%), having more perspective (85%), and having more time for themselves (83%) and for their loved ones (81%). 

While some negative aspects are also associated with old age - considering that things were better before (71%), no longer understanding young people (62%), or having a less full social life (51%) - the French refuse to associate age with disconnection from society.

The French say they enjoy the company of their elders, especially when they are part of their family: 90% say they enjoy spending time with “old” family members. 

From bliss to risks: Ambivalent feelings

The French are relatively calm about the prospect of their own aging, 71% of them claim to be serene (but only 16% consider themselves very serene), while 29% admit to feeling anxious. However, these feelings differ by gender: while 80% of men say they are serene, only 63% of women say the same.

This serenity stems from the fact that the French associate old age with several positive life stages: access to property, settling down as a couple, having children, having grandchildren. However, other stages show that serenity in the face of advancing age remains relative. 

French people accept that there are certain markers of advancing age, such as a change in their physical appearance and feeling disconnected from the vocabulary and expressions of young people. However, age-related pain and cognitive decline are far greater concerns. 42% of French people say they are especially afraid of the risk of becoming dependent, and this prospect is much more worrying than the risk of isolation (15%) or changes in physical appearance (14%).

An aging society: A challenge and an opportunity 

The rapidly aging population is seen as both a challenge - the need to rethink social models - and an opportunity - the chance to make money.  French consumers are concerned as to how well society is prepared for this demographic change: only 46% believe that it is well anticipated, dropping to 38% among those 65 and older.

The fate of their elders is a real matter of concern for French people. Even after the Covid-19 crisis, two-thirds of French people (66%) consider that we do not care enough about the health of seniors in general. Thus, the 65+ age group feels that their financial situation (82%) and their opinion (81%) are not given enough attention.

The CIC Take:

• The industry must change the semantics around aging to reflect consumers’ more positive attitudes. Brands should increase representation of older skin types, taking a true-aging rather than anti-aging approach.

• Consumers are more concerned with aging healthily than reversing the aging process. Brands must take a holistic approach to the aging category.

• Middle age is a key territory for innovation - consumers in this demographic are optimistic about the aging process but are currently being underserved and overlooked.

(Source: Toluna x Harris Interactive Les Zooms de l’Observatoire Cetelem 2022: Survey 2/3 What does aging mean?)

SOURCING WITH RESPECT - CONSUMER’S GROWING EXPECTATIONS

Photo: Maksim Goncharenok via Pexels

The Brazilian hero brand; Chinese consumers high expectation in sourcing of natural ingredients; and the consumer push for fair wages; the latest findings from the 2022 Union of Ethical BioTrade global survey reveal a picture of growing biodiversity awareness and an increasingly expectant consumer.

On October 19, 2022, Leila Rochet, CIC’s Chief Innovation Officer and also Consultant for the UEBT, was in Grasse for the annual UEBT conference, where the team unveiled the results of its latest global biodiversity survey, conducted by Harris Interactive/Toluna. 

Since UEBT began back in 2009, the world looks like an entirely different place. Change that has never been so marked or occurred so rapidly than in the past two years. The pandemic forced everyone to take stock of their environment - quite literally - and since UEBT’s last in-person event in 2019, consumers have taken the time to get better informed on the impact of their purchases. In the interim years, they have grown to value brands and companies that act today to improve tomorrow.

Reflecting on this seismic consumer shift, the UEBT barometer was changed - moving on from measuring improvement of biodiversity awareness (which is now globally high) to focusing on more nuanced insights and behaviours. This year, a total of 14 questions were asked to more than 6,000 people spanning 6 countries (France, UK, Germany, Brazil, USA and China). 

Below is a summary of the key findings:

1 - The Biodiversity Boom

Biodiversity is chosen by 21% of global consumers as their second most urgent concern, ranking second after climate change, from a pre-set list of five topics. In Brazil and China, biodiversity is ranked as number one, while in Germany, a country where biodiversity awareness is still low (76%), it ranks as the fourth most important concern after climate change, plastic pollution and forest loss.

What is clear is that biodiversity is of significant interest to consumers. In fact, 54% of those surveyed said it was very important to them to have information regarding a product’s impact on biodiversity listed on the product packaging or web page, only slightly lower in importance than the list of ingredients. This figure goes up to 61% amongst those consumers who have the highest awareness of biodiversity and reaches 61% among consumers who buy natural beauty brands. Respondents in Brazil appear to be particularly interested in these issues, scoring the highest for each item. Importance is also given to labels that validate a company’s ethical practices, being especially very important to consumers in Brazil (76%), China (46%) and France (42%).

2 - The Human Imperative

A total of 9 out of 10 respondents agree that it is the obligation of humans to protect nature, and 82% believe they can have an impact by buying products from companies that respect biodiversity.  A figure that is also high on expectations they have regarding companies. 53% think it is a moral obligation for companies to respect biodiversity and the figure has increased since 2020. They want to be informed of the actions and expect companies to take a stand, for example, when the agreement for nature is adopted at the end of this year.

3 - Fairness and Ethical Practices

When asked to select the most important actions taken by companies from a pre-given list of 18 items, paying a fair price and a decent wage takes the #4 position. Ethical practices, especially relating to biodiversity and the protection of nature, are expected from brands. To note,  in the Top Five, paying fair prices or decent wages and protecting the bees are mentioned by half of the sample as very important actions. These results are even higher among women below 30 years old.  57% said it is very important that companies address reforestation and 50% mentioned fair prices.

4 - Brands perceived as the most supportive of biodiversity

So which brands are considered to take most concrete action to respect people and biodiversity? Only a few brands clearly stood out spontaneously in all countries, except for Brazil. 72% of consumers could name just one beauty or food brand, with younger consumers, consumers aware of biodiversity and women being ahead of other cohorts.

In France, 25% of respondents mentioned Yves Rocher (in augmentation vs 2020). In Germany, Nivea is mentioned by 21% (with higher level among men). To note that 19% of natural brand purchasers cited Weleda (joint top with Nivea). In the UK, The Body Shop was mentioned by 24% of respondents ( 33% for female respondent)s. From the US, all figures are low - Burt's Bees’ heritage in beekeeping helps the brand score 12% overal. Like previous years, Natura emerges as the clear biodiversity champion in Brazil with 69% of mentions overall (up from 55% in 2020), rising to 73% amongst females over 30 years old. In China, L’Oréal reaches the first position with 21% and respondents mention more prestige brands.

The CIC Take:

• Consumers are increasingly aligning respect for biodiversity with respect for people (in terms of fair wages, etc). Ethical practices (and therefore, transparency) are now top consumer priorities.

• Opportunities exist for brands to own the natural/ green beauty conversation in their territories - with the exception of Brazil, there is no clear natural beauty hero brand.

• Chinese consumers have high expectations and are important natural beauty brand buyers.

The UEBT Biodiversity Barometer Full report can be downloaded on the www.biodiversitybarometer.org website.

Traceability in Action: Elevating evidence over storytelling

As conscious consumption becomes ever more mainstream, Clarins’ new “field to client” traceability platform, T.R.U.S.T., gives access to every product’s digital passport.

According to the latest UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) report, 52% of consumers agree that it is very important for companies to communicate the origin of ingredients on their packaging or web pages. And consumers (54%) would also like to have information on how the product’s creation impacts biodiversity. Evidence clearly supports growing consumer interest in traceability and the power of transparency to drive purchase decisions.

According to Katalin Berenyi, Global General Manager of Clarins, “Clarins T.R.U.S.T., is our first traceability platform using blockchain technology, a breakthrough innovation in the beauty industry. Each of our guests can now use their product batch number to track all major steps of the product journey: from field, to factory, to their home.”

Clarins’ use of blockchain cleverly connects consumers to every product’s origin story, from the farms and fields where the brand sources its plants, to the factory in France where products are manufactured. The launch follows an industry-wide push to deliver deeper data around sourcing, safety and environmental impact.

Aveda was one of the first beauty brands to launch a blockchain traceability initiative back in 2019, and since then, brands including Guerlain (with its Bee Respect campaign) and vertical farming pioneers, Ulé, have made traceable innovation central to their brand story.

Consumers, however, are not convinced that companies do act positively on people and biodiversity – 24% of those surveyed say they are confident that companies pay serious attention to ethical sourcing of biodiversity.

The CIC Take:

The launch of T.R.U.S.T marks another significant milestone in the journey to transparency and sets the tone for a new era of evidence-based marketing for the Beauty industry.

GYM BEAUTY - From Sweat-care to self-care

Photo: Elina Fairytale via Pexels

Consumers’ hyper-concentration on all things health-related has spawned a wealth of recent product launches aimed at the post-pandemic Wellness Seeker. Now, beauty brands are taking to the gym and creating a new space for cosmetics and skincare products that address the physiological shifts experienced before, during and after workouts. 

Pushing beyond performance

We’ve seen brands successfully tap the workout market before, with targeted makeup products primed to withstand intense performance (see, CliniqueFIT launched in 2017 and Tarte’s 2016 line ) but the latest iteration of gym beauty involves a more holistic approach. Where previously brands have focused on gym-proof makeup, today’s consumer is not solely concerned with maintaining their glow on the treadmill. Consumers are looking for products that continue working well after their workout has ended, addressing their post-exercise skincare needs, actively smoothing, soothing and tightening, and enhancing their overall gym experience.

This month Revolution unveiled its new GYM line - a collection of products (including workout accessories) that are formulated not just to hold up to exercise but to actively address workout-specific skincare needs. Featuring products that respectively cool, relieve, tighten and firm the skin, the range also includes a metal Gua Sha and face roller to lift and sculpt, taking the body-boosting narrative one step further. 

A new space for self-care

In light of the post-Covid wellness surge, Revolution has spotted an opportunity to connect with consumers through the introduction of new self-care rituals centred around the workout experience. Shifting the emphasis away from pure endurance makeup to consider broader gym-related beauty needs from a wellness perspective, Revolution is carving out new territory.

It joins other brands that are leveraging the demand for more holistic care, such as the UK brand Face Gym which builds on the idea of “facial fitness”, providing a workout for the face through the use of multiple tools inspired by the kind of equipment usually found in the yoga studio. Face Gym has successfully developed a narrative of aesthetic care in a sport-inspired environment. In the US, the upsurge of wellness athleisure has seen leading brands including Lululemon and Alo Yoga expand beyond yoga pants into beauty lines. These brands are transitioning from their focus on “studio-to-street” fashion, and are moving towards the for “studio-to-beauty” expansions. Deeply rooted in mindfulness and wellbeing, such products will be sure to interest beauty buyers in their quest for self-optimising, self-care brands.

THE CIC TAKE:

To tap this emerging sector, brands must go beyond performance-proof cosmetics and consider the wider wellness opportunity that lies in developing pre-and-post workout products, tapping the growing demand for whole body and mind care. Embrace fitness semantics to engage health-focused beauty buyers who will take every opportunity to optimise their wellbeing.

SOCIETAL WELLNESS - REDEFINING BEAUTY

Photo: David Suarez via Unsplash

Driven by the idea of collective responsibility, consumers are redefining the concept of care, moving the emphasis away from the self and onto their community. Brands are being challenged to follow where sentiment is leading, and more than ever before, beauty in the US is being seen as a rallying voice for change.

In our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, we explore the trend for Societal Wellness, where values-driven consumers are challenging brands to take a stand on the big issues and address beauty’s developing role as a therapeutic medium.

As the US grapples with a mental health crisis (10.6% of young people in the US identify as having severe depression, with multiracial youth at the most risk) and growing division over reproduction rights, now is not the time for brands to stay silent. Brands that fail to stand up and be counted may lose the support of their core consumerbase - one in four Gen Z will not spend with a brand that does not take a stance on the big issues. Intrinsic values trump external validation for this powerful cohort.

Below is a taster from our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, where we explore the trend for Societal Wellness through three distinct pathways: 

• SOUL-CARE - BEYOND WELLNESS

In the grip of a mental health crisis, consumers are seeking solutions that lie outside of conventional thinking and practices. This creates an interesting opportunity for beauty brands, particularly as consumers become more open to alternative treatments that allow them to access deeper emotional healing. Brands are exploring the universes that exist around spiritual wellness, medicinal psychedelics and ritualistic healing in order to engage consumers with the pursuit of a deeper wellness that goes beyond the surface.

• ACCESSIBILITY ENHANCED - BEAUTY FOR ALL

As consumers propel the momentum around social awareness, Pride celebrations and Black History Month are growing in significance as opportunities to bring attention to the contributions, and struggles, of marginalized people. In this context, consumers are challenging brands to deliver on their diversity best practices, and move forward with BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ talent at the fore. NPD reports that in the 12 months ending in February 2022, Black-founded beauty sales increased by 45%, while the rest of the market grew by 30%. 

• POLITIBEAUTY - BRANDS FOR CHANGE

As we live through a period marred by huge civil unrest and global crisis, brands are realizing that they need to be vocal in order to connect with today’s politicized consumers. In the wake of the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe Vs Wade, many key beauty brands have taken a bold stance on abortion rights and issues around women’s equality. The pro-choice message chimes with the overwhelming backlash to the verdict amongst Gen Z . Since the decision was made, well over 100 beauty and wellness brands have joined the Don’t Ban Equality coalition to protect access to reproductive healthcare. 

A full copy of the report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now. Drop us a line for more details, and discover an in-depth analysis of the US makeup sector through six emerging universes and 18 pathways to innovation.

A SNAPSHOT OF FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRENDS - FOCUS ON COLOR

Photo: Chandri Anggara from Unsplash

As part of our ongoing partnership with intelligence platform, Spate, we dive into the data behind their latest consumer report and decode what it means for the French and US beauty sectors.  

“Spate’s rich data analysis brings deeper insight to our understanding of these distinct markets,”  explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “We are able to leverage Spate’s search analysis data to confirm our prospective vision. It also helps us to better understand nuanced cultural differences and consumer behaviours.”

Spate’s latest report reveals the behavioural specificities emerging from each market. Here are our three major takeaways from the July 2022 France & America: Hair & Makeup Trends Report:

• The rise of warm red tones for hair color

In both countries, warm red tones dominate search volume changes. In France, searches for ginger hair are +2.0K; burgundy +1.3K; auburn +1K; and copper +700.  While red is the warmest color for French consumers, rising interest in babylights (+1.1K) also suggests a desire for subtlety. Likewise, in the US, red hair is the most searched for hair color with a volume increase of +213.4K, with copper (+36.2K), auburn (+35.8K), ginger (+32.3K) and red highlights (+29.0K) also all featuring in the top ten.  

Across both countries consumers are using more nuanced search descriptors to find their desired hair shade, often searching for various colors alongside red hair, demonstrating a growing desire for tonal color with dimension and depth - as well as suggesting a desire for individuality.

As we noted from Spate’s previous report on the US/France skincare market, French consumers lean into the classics - and the hair color category is no exception, with L’Oreal holding out as the most searched-for brand. However, US consumers appear to be more open to challenger brands, such as overtone  (+1.4K), adore hair colour (+350) and creme of nature (+260), which top out as the brands with the greatest search volume increase YoY. 

• Lipstick at the centre of interest

Lipsticks score high by search volume increase in both countries (+14% in France, +37,5% in the US). It is therefore not surprising that lipstick sales have seen a + 28% rise in Q2 -2022 in the US according to NPD. 

Long-wear and glossy are at the top of the list for French consumers (+1.7K and +1.1K respectively), while shine (+35.2K) and lasting (+16.1K) score highest for the US. 

Interestingly for a country so defined by its love of the classics, magic/colour-changing lipstick is a rising category for French consumers, breaking into the top three most-searched-for benefits with an increase of +770 YoY. 

• Eyeliners shift from classic to contemporary

Searches for eyeliner are at +8.9% in France and +11% in the US. While white and brown eyeliner are owning overall search volume in both territories, blue eyeliner is also increasingly growing on the consumer radar (+230 in France and +19.1K in the US). Green is also breaking through in the US at +12.5K, with classic black dropping into third place for both countries. 

The CIC Take 

French consumers are slowly shifting away from the classics, and are exhibiting growing interest in on-trend, contemporary colors and formulations. The uptick in searches for more niche lipstick benefits (such as ‘color-changing’, ‘waterproof’ and ‘sheer’) present opportunities for brands to inspire with innovative new concepts.  What is emerging is a shift towards greater expressions of individuality, which is apparent in growing searches for nuanced hair colors and bolder eyeliners. 

Download the full report here.

What’s Next

The agency will explore this opportunity in detail at the upcoming MakeUp in New York event, where Leila will be joined by Olivier Zimmer and Addison Cain of Spate to discuss the major global drivers fuelling the appetite for pleasure and individual expression. In the second of four Beauty Talks hosted by the agency at Makeup in New York, Leila, Olivier and Addison will deep dive into Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure, leveraging the most recent Spate consumer data insights, based on the analysis of online search data from the US, France and the UK.

Meet the team at the MakeUp in New York, September 14 & 15, 2022 at River Pavilion - Javits Center, New York

Beauty Talk #2 - Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure

September 14, 3:30 pm – 4:15 pm at the Beauty Agora

Seoul - The Retail Creative Hub

All aboard the Seoul Train!

In July we were finally able to resume our Seoul Inspiration Tour - our expert-curated guide to the beauty capital, created in partnership with South Korean retail experts, Latitude37.

We couldn’t have been happier to guide clients through a packed itinerary that covered K-beauty hot spots, pop-ups, cult brands, cool cafes, must-see exhibitions and the trendiest bars. Every single destination was selected by us, along with Latitude 37, with the sole aim to fire inspiration.

Below, is just a small taster of the type of retail hot spots you can expect from a week’s itinerary in the K-beauty capital.

1/ Dior Pop-Up - Luxury Redefined

Photo Credit: Dior

location: 7, Yeonmujang 5-gil, Seongsu-dong

product: RTW, accessories, cafe

dates: Until 2025

dior.com

Redefining the very idea of a pop-up, Dior goes BIG for Seoul, with a three-year plan to bring experiential luxury retail to the city’s trendy Seongsu-dong district. The facade of the vast 1,700 sqm building features a metal mesh structure with a glass roof, recalling the company’s newly renovated headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. The multi-storey boutique also features a cafe, where visitors can sup in front of a large digital screen that reproduces a trompe l’oeil replica of the gardens of Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, Normandy.

2/ Ader Space 3.0 - Sci-fi leap into the future

Ader Space - Photo by Latitude 37 for Cosmetics IC

location: 518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu

product: contemporary streetwear, accessories , cafe

adererror.com

Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store, in the Sinsa-dong area of Gangnam district, takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, Ader Error 3.0 is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. A changing room can double as a noraebang singing room, another opens to a room with a bunk bed, fixtures and fittings move on demand, and to reach the cafe, visitors have to walk through a hotel-like hallway.

 3/ Uncommon - Cashless redesigned

Credit: Uncommon store - Photo Yongjoon Choi

location: The Hyundai Seoul, 108 Yeoui-daero, Sixth Floor

product: convenience store

@uncommonstore_official

 The ultimate convenience store- cashless, staffless and all app-controlled, Uncommon comes from local architecture and design studio Archi@Mosphere. Before entering the store, consumers download an app, and then scan their phones at the entrance. They can then shop snacks, drinks, fresh fruits and a selection of toiletries with the app taking control of all payments. The store interior is a mash-up of minimalist futurism with retro signage.

Our Inspiration Tours

We tailor every Inspiration Tour to our client’s exacting needs, so drop us a line today to take the next step on your inspiration journey.

Every tour is guided and comes with a complete book with description, addresses and inspiration seeds.

DISRUPTION FOR THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY

photo: Maksim Gonchareno - Pexels

We’ve reached the climate crisis point, and as business leaders grapple with the challenges of sustainable sourcing and production, it’s clear that we are about to enter a period of disruption.

Sustainability First

New research from Bain & Company outlines the unsustainability of our current rate of consumption - we are using the equivalent of 1.75 times the earth’s natural resources every year. Businesses are now putting the principles of the circular economy into action as they try to get a handle on this crisis. And those in charge are full of positive intentions - the supply chain executives interviewed by Bain and Company say they are planning to double the share of the revenue from circular products and services by 2030.

They must follow the example of indie disruptors by examining how circular sourcing and production can actually spur growth and ultimately reduce costs; convert waste into assets, invest in biotech, look at ways of reducing and recycling carbon, and develop packaging with a continuous lifecycle.

Learning from Beauty

In the Beauty industry, we have seen how circular innovation has been pivotal to the success of insurgent brands, such as Plus Body Wash and its dissolvable sachets; Noble Panacea’s refill keepsakes, and the lab-grown actives that power Biossance products. Transitioning to a circular business model is now key to survival, as consumers demand accountability and action.

In our latest skincare report - The New State of Being - we highlight the key prospective theme of Empathy Awakened, through which we explore three pathways to a more sustainable and equitable future.

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses. 

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

Photo: Essence - Facebook

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K.  Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K). 

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three.  The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K.  Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches.  The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319. 

CIC TAKE

• The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.

• With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.

• Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.

The post-pandemic skincare reboot

CREDIT: COURTESY CAY SKIN

Healthy not perfect, is the new skincare mantra, as consumers prioritize care for the long term over short-term beautification. In our latest skincare report, A New State of Being: Inspiration from the US, we highlight the trend for Rebooted Defense, as consumers shift to a prevention-over-cure mindset.

With summer approaching, suncare and skin health are at the forefront of our minds, as we explore three pathways to innovation for brands looking to tap the rebooted skincare consumer:

1/ The barrier boom: The interest in the skin barrier has accelerated within younger consumer demographics, largely thanks to the educational content pushed by derma-influencers on TikTok- the hashtag #skinbarrier has clocked over 300 million views. Derma-positioned products are accelerating as consumers become more cautious, moving away from the goal of short term glow toward long term health. In this context, barrier cream is rising on the consumer radar - according to Spate, there are 8.5K searches on average every month in the US for ‘Barrier Repair’, a surge of +67.9% on last year. Pitched at Gen Z consumers, Byoma is an accessible, affordable, and approachable skincare brand that strengthens the skin and boosts the skin barrier with simple, effective formulations. Taking an educational approach, they explain the why and the how behind skin barrier repair on their Instagram.

2/ Hybridised suncare: In the US, more than 9,500 people are diagnosed with skin cancer every day, and rates of melanoma have been rising rapidly over the last thirty years.  With no more Covid restrictions and sunnier days driving Americans to spend increasing amounts of time outdoors, skintellectual consumers are seeking products that double-down on offering UV protection whilst maintaining a healthy biome. This is giving rise to the hybridisation of the sun-skincare categories, with many suncare native brands now widening the scope of their range. Sun Bum, which was known solely as a surfer’s sun protection brand, launched into the skincare sector in June 2021. The launch of Cay Skin the from Winnie Harlow under the motto "a skincare brand for everyone under the sun," is the perfect illustration of the new generation of suncare products: inclusive - with textures adapted to all skintones, skincare driven - with a custom blend of gentle island-based ingredients and high performance skincare actives and sustainable (silicone free- reef safe).

3/Skincare takes a trip: Consumer understanding of ‘health’ now encompasses both mental and physical vulnerabilities, with the skin being the barometer of internal health and general wellbeing. Alternative new wellness spaces and practices are emerging that meet contemporary lifestyle demands, with nature, medicine and micro-dosing converging to challenge conventional thinking. This preventative mindset is fuelling demand for alternative treatments and experiences that are designed to boost mental health,  such as ketamine therapy, guided psychedelic trips and micro-dosing. Speaking to Vogue.com, Sarah Chapman points toward self-care’s important role in maintaining mental wellbeing; “a radiant, clear complexion is a strong indication that the body is in a healthy state.”  Delivering an emotional boost through the power of scent, The Nue Co’s The  Mind & Body Fragrance is a unisex fragrance supplement that invigorates mental energy and boosts focus, using patented olfactory technology.  

The CIC Take:  In the post-pandemic reboot, psycho-biological care presents an exciting new sub-category for skincare brands to merge physical and emotional health.  As our knowledge of the effect external aggressors can have on our skin increases, our approach to skincare is changing to one of defense and protection.  Hitched to this is a growing understanding of physio-emotional synchronicity, as the skin becomes a barometer of our holistic wellbeing.

For a detailed dive into Rebooted Defense and other key US skincare trends, our extensive report, A NEW STATE OF BEING: Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now.

Contact us for more details.

London Calling! Inspiration Tours Return

London calling!

After months of silence, new retail concepts are emerging. Here is a quick recap from our latest Inspiration Tour, where we uncovered inspiring new hot spots, and immersive pop-ups.

1. JACQUEMUS x Selfridges 

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

name: Jacquemus Le Bleu

type: Fashion & Accessories

location: Selfridges, London

design: Random Studio, Jacquemus

dates: 03.05.22 – 04.06.22 

At London department store Selfridges, French fashion designer Simon Jacquemus has unveiled a series of surrealist pop-up installations, including a luxury bag vending machine and a swimming pool-inspired changing room.  Titled, Le Bleu, the immersive space is a surrealistic interpretation of the designers’ own bathroom.

Customers can shop the pop-up for exclusive colorways of the label's Chiquito and Bambino bags, as well as a mix of hoodies, tees, and select items from the recent Le Splash collection. Playing with the conventional retail format, customers can also access a  24-hour vending machine which is located behind the main store. The machines are filled with rows of bags and accessories, allowing customers to shop any time of day or night.

The CIC Take: This exciting project combines exclusive products with immersive experiences, and continues to reinforce Selfridge's position as London’s leading experiential retailer. Le Bleu strategically targets Gen Z, captivating customers through engaging new retail formats that organically gain traction on digital platforms such as Instagram and TikTok.

2. BALENCIAGA, New Bond Street

name: Balenciaga

type: Fashion & Accessories

location: 24/25 New Bond Street, London

design: Sub, Demna

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

Balenciaga’s latest London store follows the brand’s ambition to redefine luxury from the low points of the pandemic. The result, created in collaboration with Berlin design studio, Sub, is a modern take on raw luxury.

The interior reveals the bones of the building; exposed elements, an industrial material palette of concrete, resin and stainless steel, and limited use of virgin materials result in a striking, Brutalist space that challenges customers to look at products in a different way.

Dutch Designer Tejo Remy, created stand-out furniture for the store, including seating made from compacted bales of deadstock clothing, provoking shoppers to reconsider the lifecycle of materials.

The CIC Take: Balenciaga’s new store design strategy challenges customers to reassess the codes of luxury. Moreover, Balenciaga is taking a low-key approach to promoting store openings – an approach we have seen many brands testing, as consumers become wary of the hard sell method. 

3. GLOW BAR, Mortimer Street

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

name: Glow Bar

type: Beauty services

location: 70 Mortimer Street, London

Glow Bar focuses on holistic stress management solutions, alongside a retail, spa and cafe environment - it’s a unique self-care destination where women can drink adaptogen elixirs and then sweat out the stress in a state-of-the-art infrared sauna.

Sasha Sabapathy founded Glow Bar with the mission to help other women manage their stress levels by applying the strategies she learned to combat her own anxiety, which includes drinking adaptogenic herbal remedies, taking regular infrared saunas, aromatherapy and, of course, crystals. 

The CIC Take: Glow bar is an exciting new wellness retail concept where beauty, wellbeing and skincare blend with socialising and community-building. The space provides shopping, treatments, and a café all under one roof to create a true wellness lifestyle destination - specifically targeted at addressing women’s physiomotional needs.

4. GLOSSIER, King Street

name: Glossier

type: Makeup, skincare

location: 43 King St Covent Garden, London

design: Glossier

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

Located in one of Covent Garden piazza’s oldest surviving buildings, Glossier’s first international outpost impressively marries grandeur with modernity. Designed by the brand’s in-house team, the store is bathed in Glossier’s signature pink hue, with marble accents, perforated metal walls and parquet flooring. Original architectural features including arches and cornices add to the sense of opulence. In-store features include mirrors emblazoned with Glossier's slogan, "You Look Good”, and a "wet bar" where shoppers can play with testers and freshen up at individual sinks.

The CIC Take: The store design playfully balances heritage with Glossier’s fresh, modern style to create a dynamic space filled with tactile architectural elements. The “wet bar” sampling area represents a welcome return to in-store testing, encouraging touch and play in the post-pandemic beauty space.

OUR INSPIRATION TOURS ARE BACK…

Feeling inspired? For a more detailed tour of London’s vibrant beauty scene - from the legacy department stores to the latest pop-ups, the cult boutiques to the indie disruptors - then drop us a line to find out all you need to know about our curated Beauty Tours.

Come and join our team on an inspirational retail safari through London’s brightest and best beauty hot pots.

A Snapshot of French and American Trends - Focus on Skincare

Photo: Cottonbro via Pexels

To announce our new partnership with Spate, we kick off a series of updates from the Google search specialists with a deep dive into the latest consumer data analysis from the French Beauty sector. 

“We have been using the Spate US tool to support our Trend reports for two years now - it has become an invaluable asset as it allows us to enrich our research and observations with reliable, and insightful data. We are thrilled that the company is extending into France and other countries, to bring a much clearer understanding of cultural trends and consumer shifts, on a global scale,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Understanding cultural specificities through country-specific data analysis is an incredibly useful tool - particularly in the case of France and the US where cultural and historical differences are more marked. The latest data from Spate allows us to better understand the differences and similarities trending in both countries.

1. French hooked on the classics:

   The laser focus on skincare propelled by the pandemic is in decline, as French consumers shift their focus onto beautification. Yet, within the skincare space, what is emerging from Spate’s data is a picture of a French consumer who is hooked on classic products and brands, but with an eye on innovative ingredients that blend science with nature. 

   In the US market, novel and on-trend formats, such as face mask sticks (with an increase of +168.4K avg monthly searches) and gua sha oil (+7.2K avg monthly searches) are proving popular, while in France it is the trusted, classic products that are driving the most traffic. Serum tops out the most searched for in the face category (with a search volume increase of +4.8K avg monthly searches), with consumers looking for serum-based solutions to target spots, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. For the US consumer, anti-aging is the top concern with searches for ‘face serum + wrinkles’ averaging 21K searches per month.

2. Brand searches confirm natural and derma-brand interest:

   Confirming the dominance of the classics in the French consumer psyche, Clarins is the most popular brand (+7.4K increase in average monthly searches), followed by other tried-and-tested brands including Caudalie (+7.2K avg monthly searches) and La Roche Posay (+3.7K avg monthly searches). The most popular Clarins product is the Clarins Double Serum, reflective of serums as the top change driver amongst French consumers. 

3. Ingredient appeal - tech vs nature:

   Despite interest in scientific ingredients being less prevalent amongst French consumers compared to those in the US, what is emerging is a rising interest in alternative plant-derived ingredients. Notably, carrot oil is experiencing a surge in France (searches are +7.75% YoY, averaging 2.3K per month). Spate notes that in France, searches for ‘huile de carotte peau claire’, (‘light skin carrot oil’), suggests consumers are using the ingredient to treat skin discoloration or lighten the skin. 

   Scientific actives are also having a bit of a moment (albeit more tentatively than when these ingredients began to spike in the US some years ago), represented in search volume increases for salicylic acid (+856 avg monthly searches), spironolactone (+357 avg monthly searches), and bakuchiol (+281 avg monthly searches). Also in ascendance is niacinamide, which has had a search surge of +35.8% YoY alongside skincare in 2022.

The CIC x Spate Take: 

The classics reign in France. While US consumers are trend-led, French consumers are more comfortable with familiar, tried-and-tested brands and products. Yet, rising interest in scientific ingredients and innovative plant-derived alternatives presents an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers by revamping popular formats with exciting new ingredients. 

About Spate: The Spate dashboard analyzes over 20 billion online search signals to answer crucial questions for the beauty and wellness industry. They launch their French data set this month. The figures in this article and the report include France & US Google Search from April 2021 to March 2022 vs. April 2020 to March 2021. Don’t hesitate to download the report here.

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Join Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Leila Rochet for a unique Beauty Talk with Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, at Makeup in Paris on June 17 at 2:00 pm.

Register here for your seat.

Announcing Ulé - An Intrapreneurial Venture

The launch of Ulé in early May marked the culmination of a two-year collaboration between our agency and the Shiseido Group. Rooted in innovation and transparency, Ulé is a truly ground-breaking new beauty brand. 

“The goal of the brand is to respond to the growing concerns of consumers who are looking for more transparency from the industry as well as a prioritization of nature that integrates mindful technology to ensure uncompromising performance and safety,” explains Lindsay Azpitarte, Founder of Ulé. “With Ulé, the Shiseido Group is pioneering a new vision of beauty: reasoned beauty.”

1/ Born of an intrapreneurial mindset

The project was created in the spirit of “intrapreneurship” – a core team sitting within the Shiseido Group, guided and assisted by a blend of in-house and outside experts selected by the Creator Lindsay Azpitarte and Marketing Director Sandrine Henrie.  The agency’s Leila Rochet brought her expertise in innovation, and was joined by formulation specialist Frederic Burtin, ethno-botanist Patrice André and nutritionist Beatrice de Reynal. This core team was also supported by the Shiseido structure, led by Christophe Hadjur, which oversaw the regulatory and manufacturing aspects of the launch. 

The resulting brand structure marries the agility and ingenuity of a start-up with all the regulatory tools and testing processes of a 150-year old business.

2/ The vertical farming future

With transparency a driving motivation for Lindsay, finding a new way to bring potent, local ingredients to the formulation was key. Instead of sourcing from the other side of the world, usually in dry format, the scientists and experts worked on creating extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris. Working alongside urban agriculture start-up Tower Farm, Ulé is able to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant - leaf to root -  in the process. This partnership ensures 100% traceable plants and 100% fresh extracts.

“With our indoor method, we can recreate a new land where the plant is preserved and avoids stress, like it's wrapped in cotton wool. This allows the true nature of the plant to be revealed and also gives us access to molecular profiles that have never been worked on before. We can be extremely innovative, even working with recognised plants," explains Patrice André, Ethnobotanist for Ulé.

Ulé has created an eco-venient local solution using less land and less water. Smart technology creates the perfect environmental conditions for every plant - 19 individual factors are monitored 24/7. 

3/ Three complementary plants

Potent Ayurvedic plants that have been used since ancient times were selected for their synergistic effect on skin resilience; Coleus for protection, Centella for regeneration and Tulsi to destress. Combined, these plants represent the trifecta of botanical beauty. 

 4/ A unique method of extraction

The process of creating Ulé’s powerful botanic blend begins just 150km from the farm. The cold extraction method is inspired by age-old techniques and begins with extracting the water of the plant to create a concentrated extract, followed by the slow maceration of the plant to derive a pure botany tincture. This proprietary method has been developed by scientists to create the most potent extract of the three plants, which are at the core of all the serum formulas (at 55%).

5/ Positive vision of resilience

Ulé is a lifestyle brand that believes that beautiful skin is resilient, able to maintain its vitality and gracefully adapt to the changing world around it.  The brand is infused with positivity and liveliness, approaching the botanical and sustainability space with zeal. Nature is respected, allowing users to find their joie de vivre. 

This lightness is reflected throughout the brand’s narrative - product names are a twist of French and English such as Joie de Youth, Oh la Plump, Tout est Clear, and Avoir It All.  Playful semantics are of course balanced with a rigorous dedication to efficiency; products are supplemented with peptides, hyaluronic acid, pre-pro-post biotics, and even CBD. And the brand supports its vision with skin, gender and age-inclusive visuals - every product has been tested on all tones of beauty phototypes..

6/ Keeping a sustainable mindset

True to Lindsay’s original vision, Ulé is built on the spirit of radical traceability. It is a rigorously local brand - 84% of ingredients are sourced in France, 96% of which are of minimum natural origin. Products are packaged in ultra-light glass bottles, bio-sourced Sudapac lids and printed with eco-responsible lacquers. With its laser focus on traceability and provenance, Ulé has developed products that travel just 340 km from seed to bottle. 

CIC’s Take: 

Tomorrow’s brands cannot succeed without a sustainably-minded approach - work on the concept of Conscious Beauty before even working on the project itself. 

"I think that we should aim for 'reasoned beauty', i.e. acting transparently and consciously, realizing the impact of our actions. Innovation can no longer be just about performance and pleasure, it must also be accompanied by a holistic approach to improvement, and a more respectful attitude towards the skin, nature, the environment and towards people." 

Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation 

Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022

Why the US is the land of luxury opportunity

Photo: Tanya Bernard

American consumers are in a flamboyant state of mind.  Since the pandemic, the US has made an impressive economic recovery, with Bloomberg confirming the country’s status as a global leader in luxury consumerism.  And according to Euromonitor’s Global Wealth and Luxury Report 2022, by 2030, the US will be home to the world’s largest population of high-net-worth individuals and ultra-high-net-worth individuals.

1- Revealing new luxuriant aspirations

Take inspiration from recent luxury launches, activations, and AW22 collections which capture the contemporary sophistication of the US luxurian.

Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta / Tom Ford

• Overt Wealth: How do you show the world you’re a crypto-luxurian? A new limited-edition collaboration from Fendi and global digital asset management platform Ledger, has resulted in a collection of tech accessories designed to hold Ledger’s secure hardware crypto wallet. The collection was unveiled at Fendi’s Men’s AW22-23 fashion show on January 15.

• Day Luxe: For his AW22 collection, Tom Ford offset a monochrome color palette with sumptuous fabrications, that reinforced the desirability of the jewel box palette. Ford layered mono-colors to create depth and richness, bringing a heightened sophistication to daywear. 

• New Territories: Luxury brands are rediscovering the US and as the country gets wealthier, they are eyeing second - and even third-tier - cities as new retail hotspots. Prada is heading to Austin, Louis Vuitton will show its 2023 Cruise collection in La Jolla, California, and Kering has announced plans to expand its retail presence in Nashville and Atlanta.

2. Luxury’s new beauty codes

In our latest What’s Up US Makeup report, we highlight 10 of the latest trends for the US market, including the New Luxury Expression - a trend propelled by the buoyant US economy, ascending consumer optimism, a desire for higher sophistication, and to, quite frankly, look expensive.

The AW 22/23 catwalk season confirmed that sophistication is back. From haute hair styling to ultra-glam makeup, the luxury of freedom is being expressed through sophisticated new looks. And Americans are in the mood for a party - after months of restrictions, the return of socializing is a gift for those wanting to make a bold beauty statement.  In Beauty this manifests as a look that is equal parts Wall Street and 90s It Girl.

• Brown Brilliance: Intense chocolatey hues replace minimalist and neutral colors. Dark creamy lipsticks or coffee-and-cream nail polish are the new aesthetics to follow.

• Ultra-Comfort Matte: According to Spate, the number of searches using the term “Matte” has experienced +13,7% growth amounting to 762,4 K monthly searches. “Cream to Powder Foundation” was at +175,1% (Source: Spate NYC Tool - End March 2022 - Year Over Year).

• Monochromatic Statement: Color becomes a conduit for pleasure and self-expression, with vivid combinations and striking monochromes representing luxury’s new dynamism. Full-color looks make a bold statement, this is see-and-be-seen beauty that draws on layering mono-color to striking effect. 

This is an extract from our latest What’s Up US Beauty report for Spring 2022.

Our new What's Up report analyzes the latest evolution of the US Beauty market, decoding the societal changes and innovative paths of beauty brands, organized around ten inspirational trends.

Each trend is supported by examples of aspirational beauty archetypes, along with information on the new indie players, concepts and products that are changing the Beauty game. Every trend confirmation is backed by key data analysis provided by the Spate NYC Google search tool and Tribe Dynamics latest figures, allowing us to deliver you an even deeper level of actionable insight and market accuracy. 

Seventy pages, ten trends, unmissable insight.

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Why brands should think more about adaptive Beauty

Photo: Ron Lash via Pexels

In a world where 15% of the population are living with some form of disability and the number of people aged over-60 is set to double by 2050, it is now critical for brands to consider Adaptive Beauty as part of their strategy.

Representing a quarter of the population in the United States, people with disabilities hold an estimated spending power of $490 billion, yet their needs continue to be overlooked by many brands. Forward-thinking companies are beginning to bring solutions with adaptive products, tools and packaging that allow those with particular needs to be part of the Beauty conversation - without any concessions or limitations. We are already seeing early signs of a new approach to Beauty taking shape, where holistic empathy for all humans and for the planet is driving new product innovation and creative expression. 

Beauty Brands can take inspiration from other industries, which are making accessibility a priority.

1. Innovation in adaptive fashion and sportswear

   In fashion, Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2021 Adaptive Collection was designed specifically for adults and children living with disabilities. Nike has created a handsfree sneaker in the Go FlyEase, which works due to the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge holding the shoe in a steady open position. While Gen Z brand Rebirth Garment tackles accessibility through a body non-conformist lens, creating bold wearables and accessories for people on the full spectrum of gender, size and ability. Similarly pitching at a younger demographic Intimately is a new, trend-led adaptive lingerie brand that designs for individuals with reduced hand dexterity and shoulder mobility. There is also an Intimately mobile app where members of the disabled community can connect with one another.

2. Facilitating in-store access

   Pantene have partnered with blind broadcaster and TikTokker Lucy Edwards for the launch of their new NaviLens codes on Pantene Miracles products and display shelving. NaviLens is like a next-generation QR code;. users download the NaviLens app to scan with their mobile camera to receive the distance to the product, along with the necessary information contextualized, in this instance product information including descriptions of the bottle shapes.

   A Starbucks store located inside the Seoul National University Dental Hospital sets the tone for what truly adaptive retail can look like. The entire store, including back-of-house, is fully wheelchair accessible, and all staff are trained in basic Korean Sign Language. Other features include contactless speech-to-text voice recognition through a tablet, a Braille menu, and digital signage which lets customers track the progress of their order.

   Amplifying its commitment to size and skin tone inclusivity, Savage x Fenty’s new Las Vegas flagship leverages tech to create a more inclusive and safer shopping environment. The store features Fit:Match AI technology, using an iPhone to scan a shopper’s body dimensions in a matter of seconds. The app then provides product recommendations based on the user’s size and shape, allowing them to purchase without having to try on in-store.

3. Adaptive Beauty underway

   In Beauty, inclusivity and accessibility are also moving beyond the issue of skin color. Kohl Kreatives is a post-inclusive beauty brand specialising in tools supporting individuals with motor disabilities, transgender people and individuals going through, or recovering from, cancer treatment. The Flex Collection makeup brush set is tailored towards anyone with a motor disability or disease.

   Olay has developed the open-source and unpatented Easy Open Lid to widen the accessibility of the brand’s moisturiser products. The lid has winged sides and a raised top with added texture for grip, higher-contrast product labels and Braille text. The lid was developed in consultation with physical therapists, occupational therapists, and UX experts to improve usability for people with a wide range of dexterity issues. 

Adaptive Beauty is one of the trends we highlight in our latest USA Trend Report - The New State of Being. It is also one of the key highlights or our White Paper - The age of Fluidity - Trends 2022 and beyond.

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South Korea Trend Update: Deeper Sustainability

Innisfree / Instagram

The South Korean market has always showed its ability to meet global needs, seizing the opportunity to innovate in Retail and Beauty. New priorities have emerged from 2021, as the market - and consumers - adapt to the new normal.

One of the key trend we address in our latest WhatsUp Report, is the next-gen circularity, a new focus of K-Beauty as rising consumer consciousness around sustainability fuels brand innovation. South Korea’s shift towards value-driven consumerism is rising with - two-thirds (59.5%) of women aged between 25 and 39 interested in eco-friendly and natural cosmetics*.

Brands and retailers are meeting the moment for responsible purchasing with waste-free or refill store concepts and inspiring consumers with new eco-rituals.

#1 CIRCULAR RETAIL

InnisfreeJeju Color Picker Makeup

Leading brands are applying the principles of circularity to the retail environment, creating a joined-up, upcycled experience. Innisfree’s ground-breaking Recycle Store first opened in 2017, and became a green landmark thanks to the use of 230,00 upcycled bottles in its construction. The store underwent a refresh in May 2021, enhancing its commitment to waste-free retailing with an interactive bottle recycling point, and a space for workshops where customers can create their own upcycled beauty accessories or create artwork from expired makeup. There is also a corner of the store dedicated to spotlighting other eco-friendly brands.

#2 ECO ACADEMY

Aromatica Zero Station

Putting education at the centre of the consumer experience, the Aromatica Zero Station at Starfield Hanam in Gyeonggi-do (opened Oct 2021) is dedicated to helping consumers understand the brand’s rigorous approach to sustainability. Shoppers can learn about the carefully selected raw materials and five extraction techniques that go into making Aromatica products, whilst also learning how to properly separate, recycle and dispose of their empty containers.

#3 ECO-CONSCIOUS RITUALS 

Aromatica Wooden Dolphin Face & Body Massage Tool

Brands are also developing new eco-rituals around materiality and self-care. Aromatica’s Wooden Dolphin Face & Body Massage Tool is made from sustainably-sourced Belgian Beachwood and is designed to stimulate the nerves and blood vessels passing between the muscles. By stimulating the lymph nodes the tool helps to discharge toxins from the body. The tool's outer packaging is made from 100% upcycled paper derived from sugar cane by-products.

This is an extract of the agency’s latest report - What’s Up in Seoul, made in partnership with Latitude 37.

Font Picture: Hince

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Source : * Cosmorning / Opensurvey

THE AGE OF FLUIDITY - FIVE BEAUTY PREDICTIONS FOR 2022 AND BEYOND

Photo: Pexels - Valera Evane

“Beauty brands must adapt to the new normal, in order to benefit from the announced resilience of the beauty market,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation. 

Despite the rolling uncertainty of living in a With Covid world, McKinsey predicts that Beauty sales in 2022 will overtake the pre-pandemic levels of 2019. Consumer sentiment is optimistic, and the urge to create moments of escapism and entertainment in the midst of all the unpredictability - is very real. 

“TikTok fuels creativity and the shift towards self-education that happened over lockdown has enhanced consumers’ knowledge and skill-set. This creative autonomy, along with the rising digitalization of culture and the Gen Z influx are culminating to redefine Beauty. And in this new phase of aesthetic experimentation, makeup rebounds as a symbol of joy.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation.

In the future, consumers will learn the value of approaching life with a fluid mindset. If 2020-21 forced consumers to become rapidly adaptable, then 2022 and beyond will see them apply this flexible approach to deal with the dynamic motion of living in an uncertain world.

Taking this newfound adaptability into consideration, below, is a snapshot of the five key trends that will impact the industry in 2022 and beyond.

For the full white paper, please drop us a line.  

#1 From Sustainability to Beauty Uncompromised

Innisfree Seoul - Collaboration for good 

Innisfree reopened its recycling store with an enhanced commitment to waste reduction, which includes interactive spaces for workshops and lectures where customers can create their own upcycled beauty accessories. There is also a corner of the store dedicated to spotlighting other eco-friendly brands; the first to be highlighted was The Picker - a zero-waste platform that sells everyday household products.(Source: Innisfree Instagram) 

In 2022, purposeful beauty merges with sustainability to create a new beauty eco-system - one that is built upon uncompromising standards and principles. Consumers are pushing beyond ‘clean’ to a place of uncompromised wellbeing - where pleasure and personal beauty are achieved without detriment to people or the planet. The expectation is for nothing less than net-zero. 

The rising climate anxiety is propelling consumers into taking affirmative action - over half (51%) now factor in whether a product was produced with a traceable and transparent origin. And, attuned to the tropes of greenwashing rhetoric and marketing messages, consumers will drive brands to adopt proactive climate-positive strategies. 

When it comes to production, radical transparency is key. 61% of consumers say they struggle to tell whether a beauty product is ethically produced by looking at its packaging, while half of would like brands to make it easier for them to spot how a product was produced (Source: Poll of 2,000 adults by study by Wella's weDo/ Professional). Going forward, consumers will t to be told to The Who, The Where and The How behind each product. 

This signals a clear shift from sustainability to beauty uncompromised, where brands will need to reinforce their their transparency credentials.

Beauty brands can deliver assurances by putting transparency at the center of the product experience, freeing the consumer to enjoy and experiment without guilt or compromise. 

#2. From Color to Joyspotting

“Everyone should be able to have the freedom to enjoy makeup” - Danessa Myrick

Photo: Danessa Myrick Facebook

Joyspotting reveals a new facet of beauty, one where makeup is cumulatively self-care, a tool of transformation and a manifestation of self-fluidity.  

This is a trend borne from the Tiktokization of the Beauty industry - where creators and influencers encourage followers to escape from the rules and embrace the fluidity of experimentation. On TikTok, there’s no room for perfection or judgement, just joy - a third of users (31%) report turning to the app in order to lift their spirits.

Fuelled by these influences, Beauty in 2022 will be rich with aesthetic rebellion and fluid creativity. The face and body will become canvases for celebratory makeup looks. And consumer sentiment is firmly behind experimentation - Pinterest reports a spike in searches for mullet hairstyles (+190%); tooth gems (+85%); bejewelled eye looks (+110%) and rhinestone pedicures (+150%).

In the US, rising brand Danessa Myrick is connecting with next-gen Joyspotters through a strategy built on inclusion and artistry. The brand’s ethos that, ”everyone should be able to have the freedom to enjoy makeup,” speaks to the new fluidity.  The color-changing pigments of the brand’s signature Chrome Flakes are representative of the new wave of ephemeral and transformative products that are only just beginning to emerge. 

Creative ephemerality also comes to the fore, with new products and devices allowing users to easily switch up their beauty looks. In South Korea, nails become a vehicle for self-expression as the pandemic continues to stifle opportunities to showcase creative flair beyond the home. In response,  nails are getting bigger and bolder, popping with 3D accents of glitter, crystals and jewellery. In the future, Brands will approach the art of beauty as an act of pleasure, and those that can deliver an instant shot of happiness will connect with consumers, who are looking for products to lift them out of the pandemic slump. 

#3. From Inclusivity to Radical Adaptive Beauty

Noto Botanics, a gender-neutral beauty line, focuses on sustainable, organic and vegan products that are gender fluid and multiuse.

Photo: Noto Botanics Facebook

As we move towards a post-inclusive society the beauty industry will seek to further individualise its approach. The industry will need to push beyond skin-tone matching to encircle all aspects of inclusivity, including the Gen Z vs Mature skin silos. As we move forward,  fluidity will be treated with the same value and respect as accessibility and adaptability.

And as we evolve our understanding of what true inclusivity means, today’s diverse and multifaceted consumers will expect to be met with products that fit their exacting needs. Beauty products that radically adapt to individuality, moving from social specificities seen at the surface (skin tone, hair type, etc) to a profound understanding of the "underskin" mechanism, will continue to emerge.  And we are only just beginning to see what is possible, as brands start to come through with tailored products that more insightfully address biological or physical nuances. 

In the Future, the Beauty industry will take action to ensure that no consumer is left out of the conversation - regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, size or ability. Currently, 15% of the world’s population are living with some form of disability, and as the population ages, this number will only increase. Designing products, tools and packaging with this demographic in mind should be imperative for the industry. 

As the fashion industry makes strides towards full social inclusivity, the Beauty industry will keep pace to ensure no consumer is left out of the beauty conversation - regardless of age, gender, race, ethnicity, size or ability.  

#4- From Skinification to Augmented Underskin

Be Radiance infuse their makeup powders with probiotics, for a healthy approach to skin complexion.

Photo: Be Radiance

The pandemic has stirred the ultra-fetishization of wellness and the healthification of the beauty industry. With a preventive mindset becoming the new normality, consumers are focused on care and safety, and they crave potent, power-dosing ingredients across all of their beauty products. In response, brands are engineering products using the latest technological advances, while at the same time introducing new, biological semantics into the beauty narrative. 

Stories around skin barrier empowerment, microbiome and psychobiological enhancers, hormonal regulators and circadian champions will continue to break through, as brands add another level of science-proofing to the consumer experience. And in the years ahead, consumers will be alerted to a new discourse around the underskin. More and more brands come with sophisticated formula with “skin health” related ingredients. Be Radiance now infuse their makeup powders with probiotics, which activate with water to positively “colonize the microbiota” explains the brand. A global beauty approach of the skin, where makeup goes beyond color as it rebalances the skin while protecting it against external aggressions.

In the future, products that adapt to the rise of skin sensitivity will become critical for consumers who want to preserve their skin health, without sacrificing performance. In this context, the boundaries between makeup and skincare, food and beauty will blur. A new generation of hybrid products will explode the frontiers between traditional segments to levitate beauty to new horizons.

#5- From Home Spa to Temporal beauty Tech

L’Oreal’s AI-integrated hair coloring device presented at CES 2022

Tech is tapping the mood for fluidity, as innovation keeps pace with consumer demand for products that allow them to seamlessly switch-up their beauty looks, from home.  And science-backed products, temporary treatments and formulations engineered to cheat surgical procedures, appeal to those looking for sophisticated out-of-the-jar beauty solutions. 

Since the pandemic ushered in new ways of working and living, consumers quickly learned how to adapt and realised that joy can be found in impermanence. Now, the desire to eschew long-term commitments for temporary thrills is taking hold in beauty. Innovations at CES 2022 captured this creative ephemerality - from L’Oreal’s AI-integrated hair coloring device, the Colorsonic, to the handheld temporary tattoo-printing machine from start-up, Prinker.

Last year, we also began to track the rise of beauty ‘tweakments’ - where consumers opted for small, professional beauty hacks to elevate their everyday look. In the eye brow category, we have seen an upsurge of interest in procedures that will impact the brow segment in beauty. According to Spate data, eye brow lamination Google searches in 2022 reached 266.2K monthly search volume, rising +55.6 % year-over-year and searches for botox brow lift were +29,2%.

In the future, scientific legitimacy coupled with technological precision will allow consumers to achieve - and measure - next-level results, without the commitment of permanent procedures. 

Every year, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation reveals the Top Five Predictions and a white paper reserved for clients. Meet us at the Makeup in Los Angeles on February 23-24, 2022 to discover the Inspiration Bar around the four first topics and the Beauty Talks where creators of brands and experts of the industry will share their vision of the evolution of Beauty.