PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS23: BEAUTY FOCUS

At the recent Paris Couture shows, trending hair and makeup looks were given sophisticated status. From grown-up Gothic Allure to a sumptuous twist on Clean Girl, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of the 5 key hair and beauty trends to watch:

#1 - Vanilla Girl 

Clean Girl continues to evolve into new territories of minimalism, and Couture week introduced the latest interpretation of the trend: Meet, Vanilla Girl. 

Source: Schiaparelli - Vogue Runway

The warmer, cosier sister of Clean Girl has been gaining momentum on TikTok, where #vanillagirlmakeup currently has 20.7M views.  As the name suggests, this is a more comfortable aesthetic, characterized by soft, buttery textures and neutral colours such as off-white, beige and cream. In Paris, Schiaparelli MUA Pat McGrath referenced the trend through candlelit skin, achieved using a soft matte base accented with a subtle rosy blush applied to the apples and up to the cheekbones. For the lips, a dewy pink balm completed the look. 

#2 - The Return of The Side Fringe 

In recent trend reports, CIC has tracked the growing influence of Kidult Beauty, as creators and consumers play with child-like aesthetics and references to create grown-up looks. This sense of childhood experimentalism seeped into Couture this season, where ultra-short and side-swept fringes evoked memories of self-inflicted home haircuts and early Noughties teen idols. 

Source visual: Armani Privé - Vogue Runway

At Viktor & Rolf, super-short fringes echoed the collection’s overarching Surrealist theme. Hair stylist Olivier Schawalder played with proportion with styles that featured short and blunt fringes paired with sleek, slightly bouffant ponytails.  On the front row at Schiaparelli, Kylie Jenner wore her bangs swept to the side and curved over one eye. 

#3 - Gothic Allure

The influence of Wednesday Addams is far-reaching and for Couture, MUAs put a sophisticated spin on the glam-goth aesthetic, demonstrating its potential to appeal beyond Wednesday’s core Gen Z audience. 

Source visual: Valentino - Julien Da Costa for Le Figaro

At Ronald van der Kemp, Marcello Costa referenced the classic goth aesthetic of matte white base and black lips but contemporized the look with bleached brows and a dramatic, smokey eye with shimmery red undertones. For Valentino, Pat McGrath looked to 80s Club Kids for inspiration with makeup looks that accentuated each model's individuality while playing to sub-culture themes. Many sported matte berry or black vinyl lips, heavily-lined eyes and a dramatic veil blush. 

#4 - ‘20s Redux

Source visual: Dior - ELLE

Serving up references to the iconic women of the 1920s, Dior’s show was rich with sophisticated hair and beauty notes. Guido Palau created hairstyles from the Joséphine Baker school of kiss curl artistry, creating immaculately sculpted looks with not a hair out of place. Short styles were centre-parted and sleeked down, or hair was braided and pulled back into low buns. Even baby hairs were neatly incorporated into each style.  

#5 - All that Brows 

Source visual: Mugler - Vogue Runway

Special attention was given to brows and lashes, as MUAs distorted conventions to play with colour and textural expectations. Echoing the social media trend for “Anti-It Girl” aesthetics, disappearing or bleached brows continue to trend strongly and were spotted at  Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexandre Vauthier and Valentino, among many others.  The blanked-out brow was often offset by juxtaposing, lash and eye looks. At Mugler, neon liner hovered just above the brow and was colour-matched with extra-long lashes. 

The CIC Take

TikTok’s influence is even being felt at Couture level. Key trends that have been buzzing on the platform are being reinterpreted with a luxury focus - from baby hair artistry to soft goth sophistication. Our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto explores how TikTok is helping to change global beauty expectations. Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

Maison & Objet Paris 2023: Interior Inspirations

Photo by Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

In the midst of this permacrisis, the latest edition of Maison & Object centered design that encourages consumers to refocus and reconnect. The imperative was to “Take Care”; take care of nature, yourself and each other, while also protecting culture, craft and heritage. 

In essence, this was a year for Slow Design, but out went the conventional minimalist aesthetics traditionally associated with the movement, and in came a bolder, more colorful expression of nature and artistry. It echoes the shift in Beauty, where consumer expectations for heightened creativity go hand-in-hand with expectations for care.

Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

#1 - The Home Cocoon: claiming for soothing spaces
The pandemic forced a slower pace of life, demanding consumers spend more time in their homes or appreciating the simple pleasures of nature. The idea of finding comfort in these intimate cocoons remains an important driver for consumers, and for many designers provided a key source of inspiration.  

In this new era, calm isn’t always equivocal with minimalism but is associated with homely, colorful and multi-textured interiors. Sensorial color, hyper-tactile surfaces, juxtaposing patterns and references to the outdoors elicit feelings of warmth and comfort. 

Laura Gonzalez drew inspiration from the tales of the Arabian Nights and the evocative scenes at Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech to create her installation, The revelation came to me from the East. In partnership with Schumacher, Gonzalez created an opulent scenography rich with woven fabrics, carved wood, ceramics and glassware. A color palette of amber,  burnt orange, mahogany and terracotta were accented with pops of green and blue (in reference to Majorelle) to create an evocative mis-en-scene. 

#2  New Ancestral: learning from the Past

Artisanal (and community) preservation is aligned with sustainability, as designers embraced the wonder of ancient handcraft and environmental practices. Craftspeople move to the forefront of design and artful upcycling is celebrated as a desirable skill.

Maison Intègre is an interior design brand based in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, where they create furniture and objects in bronze using the ancestral lost wax technique. Each piece is crafted by hand with recycled metal and is only produced in limited numbers.

Preserving the tradition of French craftsmanship, Galerie MAY produces exceptional furniture incorporating marquetry, lacquer and ceramics, with a decidedly contemporary flourish.

#3 - Regal Nature: praising the natural world

Nature has become the great unifier and healer in a period of upheaval and design is embracing the nature-trend aesthetic. Objects unveil figurations of nature elements putting the light on the animal and vegetal world. 

For the collaboration of Christian Lacroix and Vista Alegre, nature becomes a highly-decorative element to be treasured, reinforcing the precociousness of its vulnerability. Each piece in the collection of fine porcelain is inspired by the beauty and intricacy of nature; with names such as “butterfly parade” and “primavera”.

Home scent brand Erbolinea turns nature motifs into objects of luxury, topping glass reed diffusers with decorative ceramic pine cones and fruits, while Ateliers C&S Davoy places a menagerie of meticulously handmade 3D butterflies in an opulent gold frame. 

#4 - Raw Tactility: feeling through touching

Raw materials and rough, hand-thrown textures speak to the need for touch and sensorial interaction. Interiors dominated by a material palette consisting of wood, marble, travertine and clay, along with the colors of nature have a holistically soothing effect. 

Demand for these tactile materials and calming colors increased during the pandemic as consumers brought elements of wellness design into their homes. Now, designers are incorporating raw materials into ergonomic furniture concepts to create restful, cocooning interior elements. 

#5 - Playful Nostalgia: building a portal to Youth

In a state of permacrisis, playful design offers a safe space. A nostalgic vision that is connected to childhood memories, colors and motifs, emerges as a comforting form of escapism. Retreating into a child-like universe of no stress, no pressure, and no anxiety has become a form of self-soothing.

At Maison et Objet, the spirit of joyful exuberance was captured in the retrospective of Jean Charles de Castelbajac, where an edit of iconic interior pieces by the flamboyant designer confirmed the joy to be found in self-expression. While luxury fragrance brand Mr&Mrs* played with child-like references for their exclusive collection of products designed in collaboration with Guarda Annusa Godi.  

#6 – Awesome Color: designing Melanine decors

Striking color combinations and graphic arrangements are reminiscent of the Memphis Group, which is finding a new audience among Gen Z and Millennials looking to express artistic flair in the home environment. Brilliant simplicity and geometric shapes are emboldened with clashing hues of green, yellow, red, and blue… energy encapsulated by Ettore Sottsass’s iconic Carlton Shelves.

Avant-garde Belgian design collective valerie_objects showcased a collection of simple, geometric wall paintings surrounded by a halo of light from Tramonti Lighting, alongside chairs in paintbox brights by Swiss brand, SILENT. Inspired by various art movements in history, Futurismo presented fine porcelain tableware in vibrant, contrasting colors, and geometric shapes. 

#7  A Versatile Approach: betting on hybridity

With responsible consumption being a key theme at this year’s event, many brands took a versatile approach to design, showcasing products that can be used both inside and outdoors.  Just as we have seen the demand for hybrid and multifunctional beauty products surge, consumers will adopt this mindset across all of their purchase decisions as they seek more sustainable solutions. Increasingly hybrid lifestyles will call for adaptive and versatile interiors. 

The CIC Take:

Slow Living is evolving into Mindful Appreciation, as consumers keep the core principles of living consciously but add their own unique sense of joy and respect for artistry. 

For brands, this will translate into radical new methods of production that are ever more respectful of the environment, and considerate of the well-being of the planet and its inhabitants. Craftsmanship and expertise will be placed at the heart of the creative process. 

The message of Take Care echoes the core theme of our latest White Paper: The Age of Connection, where we highlight the need for Beauty brands to recognize the symbiotic relationship between people and planet. Drop us a line today to get hold of your copy.

The FRAGILE Power of Influencers - Focus on France

Source: Unsplash+

How much influence do influencers really have?  A recent study from Toluna France highlights consumers’ shifting relationship with influencers and their growing expectations for more authentic and purposeful interactions. 

Like almost every other country, France is experiencing the power of influencers. Despite new consumer expectations, tapping the influencer network remains a key way for brands to connect with French Gen Z social addicts. Here are 3 interesting points to highlight from this very rich and interesting survey.

1. The influence of influencers 

Overall, 53% of French consumers admit to following influencers, rising to 84% of Gen Z. Instagram is the preferred channel for influencer consumption at 69%, followed by TikTok at 39%. Among the digital native Gen Z, 89% prefer Instagram for content, and 58% prefer TikTok.

2. Trust is not a given

Pop culture is rife with caricatures and exaggerations of influencers, compounding an overall negative impression - a feeling held by 51% of all French consumers. The image of an influencer is a delicate asset for brands to manage and consumers are increasingly expecting more nuance and authenticity from these relationships. Only 41% trust brands that communicate through influencers. 

Consumers indicate that influencers represent a key source of discovery for new trends (89% overall / 91% for Gen Z), but only 50% say they view influencers as role models. Herein lies the influencer paradox - they are well-known, but not necessarily trusted, and yet two-thirds of consumers (61%) say influencers have an impact on major social issues, such as the environment or inclusion.

3. A symbiotic future

The research suggests that influencers still have a key role to play in the consumer-brand relationship, but expectations have evolved beyond pure product placement/ discovery.  

Nearly 8 in 10 (79%) French consumers expect brands to act more responsibly and extend this to how they engage with influencers. Consumers wish influencers to explore more important topics, reflecting their own shifting priorities. The subjects that consumers believe brands should engage influencers with include global warming (59%), social inequalities (57%), disability (49%) and minority rights (44%).

THE CIC TAKE

As consumers adopt more purposeful purchasing patterns, influencers must connect by becoming advocates for relevant social issues and topics, such as the environment, diversity, and equality. In this way, influencers can build trust and organically guide consumers toward brands.

When trust is not a given, brands need to manage influencer relationships with care. Create a more symbiotic dynamic where CSR values are authentically aligned with choices, and look towards flourishing micro-influencers for an authentic route in.

At Cosmetics IC, we feed our inspiration reports with insights and from our constant observation of social media. Ask about our monthly Instagram Book highlighting the key Beauty influencer's trends, the top 5 brands in EMV in the US, and the latest Instagram looks in Beauty.

Source: Toluna 

What's next for 'Clean Girl'?

Pic: Averie Woodard via Unsplash

In our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto, we explore the future direction of the Clean Girl aesthetic, as consumers evolve the trend into artistic new territories. 

One of the key aesthetics that emerged in 2022

The Clean Girl look centers on neutral, barely-there makeup, effortless yet glossy hair, and neat but understated nails.

This hyper-clean aesthetic continues to capture consumers’ imaginations, but in the fast-paced world of TikTok, #cleanbeauty (2Bn views) is already evolving into new expressions of minimalism. Consumers are leading with artistry, applying elevated skills to their daily routines to create brilliantly bare-faced beauty looks that shift the no-makeup makeup narrative.

How the #CleanGirl trend is influencing Beauty

Looking at Google search data, analysed by our partners at Spate, ultra-clean aspirations are moving in an ‘ultra-soaked’ direction. Shower-fresh and weather-bitten makeup looks are emerging as the next iterations of Clean Girl. 

Spate reveals an upsurge in wet-adjacent search terms including ‘juicy’, ‘dewy’, ‘glossy’, ‘glass’ and ‘jelly’. Year-on-year Google searches for ‘Dewy’ are up +73.6% and ‘Dewy Skin’ is +40.6%, (based on Google searches – 2022 vs 2021).

The Clean Girl aesthetic is not just for the face, we’re also seeing the trend reflected in a growing desire for minimalist nails, as seen in our latest analysis of nail trends.

 What it means for Beauty innovation

Consumers understand that there’s more to immaculate skin than meets the eye and they are scouting for products that double-down on benefits - pairing hydration with skin-smoothing - to create the best canvas for their Bare Artistry. 

Inspired by the K-beauty trend for skin slugging, new techniques that drench the skin (and hair) in ultra-rich moisture are becoming mainstream, thanks to social media. This movement is inspiring a new generation of clean foundations with super-moisturising capabilities, which are loaded with active ingredients inlcuding hyaluronic acid and precious oils; according to Spate figures, ‘Water-based Foundation’ searches are at +43.9% YoY.  Sales of prestige radiant foundations also increased by 42% from January to the end of October 2022, while sales of prestige highlighters increased by 24% (Source: NPD). 

Among the key launches in this space, which are highlighted in our report, is Westman Atelier’s Vital Skincare Complexion Drops (August 2022) which has the texture of a serum and the beauty of a skin tint. As a “bare skin” magnifier, it improves skin quality thanks to the inclusion of Tsubaki oil, ginseng and pomegranate extract.

TikTokers are moving on from matte to embrace still-in-the-shower wet looks, and this new direction is about achieving the ultimate all-over gloss on the skin, lids, lips and hair.  It’s a look that can be obtained with About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss or the Gloss Medium formula from Pleasing, which can be used across the lips, eyes and face to create a radiant allover, high-velocity sheen or applied over pigments to elevate color and obtain a more glossy finish.

The CIC Take

There is an opportunity for brands to investigate new hyper-clean narratives, pairing the fundamentals of the clean aesthetic (hydrated and flawless skin, understated beauty) with creative new interpretations; from ‘I’m Cold’ to ‘Shower Makeup’. These are trends born and evolving on TikTok, where Gen Z creators are expressing the notion of ‘healthy’ in increasingly novel and artistic ways.

We explore the evolution of the hyper-clean trend, and much more, in our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto. As ever, our research is supported by Spate’s invaluable data insights. Contact us today for more details.

TIKTOK INSPIRATIONaL trends BEAUTY TRENDS - # january23

@hayley_bui /@garabceluru/ @zoekimkenealy - TikTok

No social platform has impacted Beauty quite in the way that TikTok has. The platform’s unique algorithm allows for any creator (be it a big brand or unique user) to go viral, propelling the site’s reputation as a space for discovery.

TikTok-onomics

Over half of all users (52%) now say they discover new products on the platform, a behavior that has shifted TikTok from a social network to an experiential media. Its influence on beauty trends, the success of new brands, the revival of long-forgotten products and the reinvention of heritage brands is propelling the industry to new levels of innovation and creativity. Based on our ranking on the total of followers, Huda Beauty is the #1 ranked Beauty brand on TikTok, with 8.4 million followers and 173.2 million likes. Next, is Kylie Cosmetics with 3.4 million followers and 24.4 million likes, followed by Florence By Mills at #3 (2.8 million followers and 47.2 million likes), Kaja at #4 (1.7 million followers and 25.4 million likes) and Fenty at #5 (1.5 million followers and 24.5 million likes).

Below, discover 3 key TikTok trends in January to inspire new beauty directions over the year ahead:  

1- I’M COLD

The counter-response to last summer’s sunburn blush trend is this season’s “I’m Cold” makeup. With over 234.8M views on TikTok, #Imcoldmakeup is defined by flushed rosy cheeks, a red-tipped nose, frosted lids and clear or frost-bitten lips. 

Much like the Clean Girl trend, the wintery makeup look is about enhancing the natural flush through elevated artistry. Blush is the key product here, which is applied on the apples of the cheeks upwards, across the bridge of the nose and to the tip. Some TikTokkers are even recreating chapped lips by applying cream blush around the lip line. 

Influencers to follow:

@zoekimkenealy #greenscreen I think this is my favorite TikTok I’ve ever made even tho I felt so basic going outside and taking selfies with my Starbucks it was also the highlight of my day hehe it’s Makeup for serotonin feels and hallmark movie time! It’s the im cold it’s winter and the holidays and fall makeup look tutorial. #wintermakeup #fallmakeuplook #coldmakeup #maccosmetics #benefitcosmetics #makeupforever #wintermakeuplook ♬ august - Taylor Swift

@trulue THIS IS THE CUTEST MAKEUP LOOK!!❄️ @zoekimkenealy you’re beautiful and this idea is amazing💖 #blush #viralmakeup #makeuptutorial #grwm ♬ Ice Dance (From "Edward Scissorhands") - Ashton Gleckman

Rising Hashtags:

#Imcoldmakeup: 234.8M / #wintermakeup: 192.6M views

2 - CRYING MAKEUP

Another trend propelled by TikTok MUA Zoe Kim Kenealy, “Crying Makeup” recreates the effects of a post-crying face - typified by a tear-streaked complexion, red eyes, smudged liner, and flushed cheeks. 

In Kenealy’s viral tutorial, she uses blush to create a soft redness around the eyes, nose, and cheeks while applying a liquid, glitter eyeshadow to make the eyes appear teary. Glitter gel is also applied to the face to replicate tears, while lips are smudged with lipstick and gloss. Key products include Fenty Beauty’s Double Cheek’d Up - a limited-edition duo of cream blush shades -  AMTS Liquid Glitter Shadow in 02, NYX Professional Makeup Slide On Lip Pencil, and EM Cosmetics Soft Spoken Lips in Manifest and Intuition. About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss is applied for a wet-look shine on the eyelids, cheeks, and cupid’s bow.

Influencers to follow:

@zoekimkenealy #greenscreen crying makeup look tutorial 😅 Can I go as a crying person for Halloween or is that not a thing #cryingmakeup #tearmakeup #cryingeyes #makeupforhalloween ♬ Show Me How (Album V) - Men I Trust

@karikarikari im sure a look like this is useful for something?? #fyp #makeup #grwm ♬ Woozy - Glass Animals

Rising Hashtags:

#cryingmakeuptutorial: 25.3B views / #makeupgirlcrying: 91.1M views / #crygirlmakeup: 101.3M views

3 - DISAPPEARING BROWS

 From bleached brows to no brows, TikTokkers move the statement brow into another dimension by removing them altogether. The latest evolution in the brow trend cycle, sees brows disappear as bold TikTokkers move on from laminated, fluffy, and super-skinny to play with a more experimental new look. 

Doja Cat spurred the trend when she recently shaved off her brows and replaced them with drawn-on abstract shapes and colours, paving the way for TikTok creators to experiment with their own artistic no-brow looks. Cue TikTokkers sharing ‘shaving’ videos as they remove their own brows and play with a more extreme beauty narrative, some other present tutorials using correctors and concealers to create the #disappearingbrows look.

Influencers to follow:

@torycarrasco #makeuptutorial #noeyebrows ♬ Twist - Korn

@madykennedy Part 2- Coloir correcting the brows to make them ✨disappear✨ #browblocking #makeuptips #creativemakeup ♬ original sound - madykennedy

Rising Hashtags:

#eyebrowsdisappear: 9.7B views / #eyebrowdisappearfilter: 71.1M views / #missingeyebrowfilter: 5.8M views / #missingeyebrow: 5.7M views/

#noeyebrowstrend: 241.1M views

THE CIC Take

Beauty trends are increasingly being shaped and propelled by peer-to-peer communities, with TikTok the favored platform for interaction, advice, inspiration and education.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our new Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok January 2023)

The Age of Connection: 5 Predictions for 2023 and Beyond

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation presents 5 key predictions that will shape the Beauty industry in 2023 and beyond, as we look ahead with optimism, creativity and conviction. 

Through a period of polycrisis, consumers are discovering strengths that they never knew they had. They are more resilient, more adaptable and more connected than they ever realised.  And if recent global events have proven anything, it is that health, freedom, and the future of the planet are all deeply interwoven.  The success of one relies on the success of another. 

“Our future is symbiotic. And yet, the desire for individual recognition and expression remains a prescient driver.  As we move forward, consumers will continue to explore the special tension that exists between collective responsibility and personal growth, and between the quest for the optimised self and for globalised empathy,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. 

For a deep dive into 4 of these key trends, we hope you can join us at the next edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles, on February 16 & 17 2023. Leila Rochet will be hosting a series of Beauty Talks where she will be joined by industry insiders to explore many of the themes outlined below. See the trends illustrated through the latest products sourced from all over the globe at our Inspiration Bar.

Book your place here!

The predictions:

1. Eco-Collectivism: From Sustainability to Augmented Empathy

Armed with increased knowledge, consumers will drive brands even harder to alter their behaviours in order to recenter humanity, source with respect, honour community and support rigorous ethical practices. In 2023 brands must become empathetic ambassadors, and respond to a new generation of eco-socio intellectuals. 

Results from the 2022 UEBT Biodiversity Barometer demonstrate there is now a global consensus that while planetary health is a clear priority in the minds of consumers, so are issues surrounding workers' rights and equality. Sustainability issues are now rightly being understood in the context of wider geo-political events. Taking a strong stand on bio-diversity, French brand Eclo is a clean eco-native that only works with ingredients that are local to its Brittany HQ and which also help regenerate the soil and the seabed. 

Taking a collective responsibility approach, Indigenous-owned brands often balance respect for nature with individual growth. Operating within this type of intrinsically holistic value system The Yukon Soaps Company uses native, wild botanicals hand-picked by elders and local young people. The brand teaches harvesting practices that foster an emotional connection to the land. Through these shared experiences, the company triggers acts of healing within the Yukon community. 

2.  Artphoria: From Colour-Dosing to Creative-Finessing

Gen Z’s takeover of social media has created a space where niche is the norm, and micro-expressions are the new mainstream. This mindset shapes a new generation of beauty connoisseurs, who bring a fine art approach and an exacting attitude to the beauty sphere. As consumer confidence grows and their skills continue to develop thanks to the TikTok explosion, we see a growing desire to express individuality through exquisite artistry. 

Daring to be rare is something to be encouraged by brands, and those that speak to individuality and trigger creativity through wild innovation will gain traction. Pleasing is a brand that inspires consumers to master micro-artistry, coupled with an approach that is embracive of every identity. Its ultra-inclusive storytelling paves the way for a “Flat Age Society” where traditional age segmentation has diminishing influence. Pleasing also encapsulates another key element - escapism. 

3. Future ArchiTech: From Innovation Hunters to Progress Pioneers

The answer to tomorrow's challenges lies in adopting a science-first and solution-focused approach. This mindset is permeating the beauty sector, where radical innovation is welcomed by today’s logical and results-driven consumers. Younger generations are facing global challenges with a practical mindset, leaning into science and technology to forge world-changing solutions. STEM careers (science, technology, engineering and maths) are now the  #1 attraction for Gen Z, according to a recent study, with particular popularity among females and people of colour. 

Brands must embrace this appetite for innovation, leaning into other categories for inspiration to deliver game-changing solutions. Aeir is one such beauty brand that is using the latest technology to develop future-facing products. Combining their experiences at Tesla and the École Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne (ECAL), the brand founders have created a next-gen wellness fragrance that utilises NASA technology, zero extraction, bioengineering and generations-old craftsmanship.

Engineered nature will also propel the sustainability narrative in 2023, as more brands invest in bio-science innovation to deliver smart, and green, solutions. In 2022 we saw Ulé (France) and Monday Musem (South Korea) lead the way with the adoption of vertical farming techniques. At Ulé, experts create plant extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris, which allows the brand to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant in the process. Monday Museum’s Pink Inspiration Cream Drop uses red clovers cultivated using smart farm technology that is said to save up to 70% energy.

4. The Optimised Self:  Exploring the Personal Ecosystem

We are entering an era of intimately adaptive beauty that responds to the individual or is tailored specifically for individual needs.  Deep care is delivered on both an emotional and physical level as personal healing becomes a priority. Science and technology are leveraged to understand and accentuate your individuality, with an emphasis on inner beauty rather than aesthetic transformations.

The continued fetishization of health and immunity will drive the creation of unexpected territories, ushering in new opportunities for beauty supplements, skin-optimising trackers, AI-aided personalization, and at-home beauty devices that deliver ultra-bespoke and professional results. In fact, consumer interest in beauty tech is set to continue to increase continuously over the next five years, reaching $8.93 billion by 2026.

With personal growth and self-improvement becoming central drivers, brands are expanding the opportunities for health and well-being optimization. Homecare brand byMATTER has added a bio-active bedding collection to its range of cleaning products, which is designed to optimise skin health. Pillowcases made from Seawell, an innovative material formulated with seaweed and enriched with collagen, facilitate an exchange of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants between fabric and skin while users are asleep.

Providing a wellness wearable that restores inner balance, Lokai is a holistic bracelet infused with white beads that contain Himalayan water (a ‘high’ ingredient) and black beads containing clay sourced from the Dead Sea (a ‘low’ ingredient). The idea is that the secret ingredients will keep wearers hopeful and humble, accordingly. 

5. The Emotional Biome: From Self-Care to Mind-Care 

In a world that is perceived as super fragile, there is a heightened focus on mental wellness, brain care and psychological healing. Beauty that delivers emotional benefits on top of functional benefits will gain traction, as consumers look to balance feelings of vulnerability with products and experiences that simultaneously provide care and protection.

Consumers will also use beauty as a means of expressing their innermost feelings, as they re-focus on personal growth and inner tranquillity. The role of functional fragrances will become heightened, as consumers and brands explore the idea that perfume can deliver benefits that go way beyond scent.  This is an idea explored by American light artist  James Turrell who has developed a collection of crystal light panels and perfumes for Lalique, which play on the abstract concept of the light we see in our dreams. Turrell brings this ethereal quality to life in the form of tangible colour but also in the form of an abstract emotion, pushing “beyond what we think we know”.

Beauty imbued with cerebral and cognitive influence will play to the growing brain care category. Brain health supplements are forecast to grow at a CAGR of 8.3% from 2022 to 2030, as consumers explore new routes to optimise mind-care.

(Image: Anna Shvets via Pixels)

FROM LIVING WELL TO AGEING WEll…WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO GROW OLD?

Cottonbro - Via Pexels

Anti-aging is often cited as a top concern among beauty consumers, and yet, the very definition of what it means to age (and specifically to “get old”) is changing. A recent survey by Toluna x Harris Interactive reveals French consumers’ shifting perceptions of aging.

This interesting survey provides numerous insights on consumers perception and attitude towards ageing. We made a deep dive into the published results to highlight the report’s key takeaways and explore what this means for the Beauty industry.

The perception of ageing - a state of mind

According to the French, it’s impossible to assign a number to old age. When asked at what age one can consider someone as “being old”, 50% refuse to give a precise answer. However, on average, most respondents consider “old” to be 68 years, although this estimation differs widely depending on the age of the respondent (ranging from an average of 58 years for those under 35 to 74 years for those 65 and over). The perception of what it means to “be old” also depends on the social context. In a corporate context, the French consider the threshold to be lower at 54 years.

In fact, in the eyes of the French, age is much more a question of state of mind (85%) or state of health (81%) than chronological age (50%). Younger people, on the other hand, attach much more importance to age (73% among 18–24-year-olds).

Ageing synonymous of positive values

The French express a very optimistic image of maturity. For them, being ”old” means above all being able to pass on their life experience to others (88%), having more perspective (85%), and having more time for themselves (83%) and for their loved ones (81%). 

While some negative aspects are also associated with old age - considering that things were better before (71%), no longer understanding young people (62%), or having a less full social life (51%) - the French refuse to associate age with disconnection from society.

The French say they enjoy the company of their elders, especially when they are part of their family: 90% say they enjoy spending time with “old” family members. 

From bliss to risks: Ambivalent feelings

The French are relatively calm about the prospect of their own aging, 71% of them claim to be serene (but only 16% consider themselves very serene), while 29% admit to feeling anxious. However, these feelings differ by gender: while 80% of men say they are serene, only 63% of women say the same.

This serenity stems from the fact that the French associate old age with several positive life stages: access to property, settling down as a couple, having children, having grandchildren. However, other stages show that serenity in the face of advancing age remains relative. 

French people accept that there are certain markers of advancing age, such as a change in their physical appearance and feeling disconnected from the vocabulary and expressions of young people. However, age-related pain and cognitive decline are far greater concerns. 42% of French people say they are especially afraid of the risk of becoming dependent, and this prospect is much more worrying than the risk of isolation (15%) or changes in physical appearance (14%).

An aging society: A challenge and an opportunity 

The rapidly aging population is seen as both a challenge - the need to rethink social models - and an opportunity - the chance to make money.  French consumers are concerned as to how well society is prepared for this demographic change: only 46% believe that it is well anticipated, dropping to 38% among those 65 and older.

The fate of their elders is a real matter of concern for French people. Even after the Covid-19 crisis, two-thirds of French people (66%) consider that we do not care enough about the health of seniors in general. Thus, the 65+ age group feels that their financial situation (82%) and their opinion (81%) are not given enough attention.

The CIC Take:

• The industry must change the semantics around aging to reflect consumers’ more positive attitudes. Brands should increase representation of older skin types, taking a true-aging rather than anti-aging approach.

• Consumers are more concerned with aging healthily than reversing the aging process. Brands must take a holistic approach to the aging category.

• Middle age is a key territory for innovation - consumers in this demographic are optimistic about the aging process but are currently being underserved and overlooked.

(Source: Toluna x Harris Interactive Les Zooms de l’Observatoire Cetelem 2022: Survey 2/3 What does aging mean?)

SOURCING WITH RESPECT - CONSUMER’S GROWING EXPECTATIONS

Photo: Maksim Goncharenok via Pexels

The Brazilian hero brand; Chinese consumers high expectation in sourcing of natural ingredients; and the consumer push for fair wages; the latest findings from the 2022 Union of Ethical BioTrade global survey reveal a picture of growing biodiversity awareness and an increasingly expectant consumer.

On October 19, 2022, Leila Rochet, CIC’s Chief Innovation Officer and also Consultant for the UEBT, was in Grasse for the annual UEBT conference, where the team unveiled the results of its latest global biodiversity survey, conducted by Harris Interactive/Toluna. 

Since UEBT began back in 2009, the world looks like an entirely different place. Change that has never been so marked or occurred so rapidly than in the past two years. The pandemic forced everyone to take stock of their environment - quite literally - and since UEBT’s last in-person event in 2019, consumers have taken the time to get better informed on the impact of their purchases. In the interim years, they have grown to value brands and companies that act today to improve tomorrow.

Reflecting on this seismic consumer shift, the UEBT barometer was changed - moving on from measuring improvement of biodiversity awareness (which is now globally high) to focusing on more nuanced insights and behaviours. This year, a total of 14 questions were asked to more than 6,000 people spanning 6 countries (France, UK, Germany, Brazil, USA and China). 

Below is a summary of the key findings:

1 - The Biodiversity Boom

Biodiversity is chosen by 21% of global consumers as their second most urgent concern, ranking second after climate change, from a pre-set list of five topics. In Brazil and China, biodiversity is ranked as number one, while in Germany, a country where biodiversity awareness is still low (76%), it ranks as the fourth most important concern after climate change, plastic pollution and forest loss.

What is clear is that biodiversity is of significant interest to consumers. In fact, 54% of those surveyed said it was very important to them to have information regarding a product’s impact on biodiversity listed on the product packaging or web page, only slightly lower in importance than the list of ingredients. This figure goes up to 61% amongst those consumers who have the highest awareness of biodiversity and reaches 61% among consumers who buy natural beauty brands. Respondents in Brazil appear to be particularly interested in these issues, scoring the highest for each item. Importance is also given to labels that validate a company’s ethical practices, being especially very important to consumers in Brazil (76%), China (46%) and France (42%).

2 - The Human Imperative

A total of 9 out of 10 respondents agree that it is the obligation of humans to protect nature, and 82% believe they can have an impact by buying products from companies that respect biodiversity.  A figure that is also high on expectations they have regarding companies. 53% think it is a moral obligation for companies to respect biodiversity and the figure has increased since 2020. They want to be informed of the actions and expect companies to take a stand, for example, when the agreement for nature is adopted at the end of this year.

3 - Fairness and Ethical Practices

When asked to select the most important actions taken by companies from a pre-given list of 18 items, paying a fair price and a decent wage takes the #4 position. Ethical practices, especially relating to biodiversity and the protection of nature, are expected from brands. To note,  in the Top Five, paying fair prices or decent wages and protecting the bees are mentioned by half of the sample as very important actions. These results are even higher among women below 30 years old.  57% said it is very important that companies address reforestation and 50% mentioned fair prices.

4 - Brands perceived as the most supportive of biodiversity

So which brands are considered to take most concrete action to respect people and biodiversity? Only a few brands clearly stood out spontaneously in all countries, except for Brazil. 72% of consumers could name just one beauty or food brand, with younger consumers, consumers aware of biodiversity and women being ahead of other cohorts.

In France, 25% of respondents mentioned Yves Rocher (in augmentation vs 2020). In Germany, Nivea is mentioned by 21% (with higher level among men). To note that 19% of natural brand purchasers cited Weleda (joint top with Nivea). In the UK, The Body Shop was mentioned by 24% of respondents ( 33% for female respondent)s. From the US, all figures are low - Burt's Bees’ heritage in beekeeping helps the brand score 12% overal. Like previous years, Natura emerges as the clear biodiversity champion in Brazil with 69% of mentions overall (up from 55% in 2020), rising to 73% amongst females over 30 years old. In China, L’Oréal reaches the first position with 21% and respondents mention more prestige brands.

The CIC Take:

• Consumers are increasingly aligning respect for biodiversity with respect for people (in terms of fair wages, etc). Ethical practices (and therefore, transparency) are now top consumer priorities.

• Opportunities exist for brands to own the natural/ green beauty conversation in their territories - with the exception of Brazil, there is no clear natural beauty hero brand.

• Chinese consumers have high expectations and are important natural beauty brand buyers.

The UEBT Biodiversity Barometer Full report can be downloaded on the www.biodiversitybarometer.org website.

Traceability in Action: Elevating evidence over storytelling

As conscious consumption becomes ever more mainstream, Clarins’ new “field to client” traceability platform, T.R.U.S.T., gives access to every product’s digital passport.

According to the latest UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) report, 52% of consumers agree that it is very important for companies to communicate the origin of ingredients on their packaging or web pages. And consumers (54%) would also like to have information on how the product’s creation impacts biodiversity. Evidence clearly supports growing consumer interest in traceability and the power of transparency to drive purchase decisions.

According to Katalin Berenyi, Global General Manager of Clarins, “Clarins T.R.U.S.T., is our first traceability platform using blockchain technology, a breakthrough innovation in the beauty industry. Each of our guests can now use their product batch number to track all major steps of the product journey: from field, to factory, to their home.”

Clarins’ use of blockchain cleverly connects consumers to every product’s origin story, from the farms and fields where the brand sources its plants, to the factory in France where products are manufactured. The launch follows an industry-wide push to deliver deeper data around sourcing, safety and environmental impact.

Aveda was one of the first beauty brands to launch a blockchain traceability initiative back in 2019, and since then, brands including Guerlain (with its Bee Respect campaign) and vertical farming pioneers, Ulé, have made traceable innovation central to their brand story.

Consumers, however, are not convinced that companies do act positively on people and biodiversity – 24% of those surveyed say they are confident that companies pay serious attention to ethical sourcing of biodiversity.

The CIC Take:

The launch of T.R.U.S.T marks another significant milestone in the journey to transparency and sets the tone for a new era of evidence-based marketing for the Beauty industry.

GYM BEAUTY - From Sweat-care to self-care

Photo: Elina Fairytale via Pexels

Consumers’ hyper-concentration on all things health-related has spawned a wealth of recent product launches aimed at the post-pandemic Wellness Seeker. Now, beauty brands are taking to the gym and creating a new space for cosmetics and skincare products that address the physiological shifts experienced before, during and after workouts. 

Pushing beyond performance

We’ve seen brands successfully tap the workout market before, with targeted makeup products primed to withstand intense performance (see, CliniqueFIT launched in 2017 and Tarte’s 2016 line ) but the latest iteration of gym beauty involves a more holistic approach. Where previously brands have focused on gym-proof makeup, today’s consumer is not solely concerned with maintaining their glow on the treadmill. Consumers are looking for products that continue working well after their workout has ended, addressing their post-exercise skincare needs, actively smoothing, soothing and tightening, and enhancing their overall gym experience.

This month Revolution unveiled its new GYM line - a collection of products (including workout accessories) that are formulated not just to hold up to exercise but to actively address workout-specific skincare needs. Featuring products that respectively cool, relieve, tighten and firm the skin, the range also includes a metal Gua Sha and face roller to lift and sculpt, taking the body-boosting narrative one step further. 

A new space for self-care

In light of the post-Covid wellness surge, Revolution has spotted an opportunity to connect with consumers through the introduction of new self-care rituals centred around the workout experience. Shifting the emphasis away from pure endurance makeup to consider broader gym-related beauty needs from a wellness perspective, Revolution is carving out new territory.

It joins other brands that are leveraging the demand for more holistic care, such as the UK brand Face Gym which builds on the idea of “facial fitness”, providing a workout for the face through the use of multiple tools inspired by the kind of equipment usually found in the yoga studio. Face Gym has successfully developed a narrative of aesthetic care in a sport-inspired environment. In the US, the upsurge of wellness athleisure has seen leading brands including Lululemon and Alo Yoga expand beyond yoga pants into beauty lines. These brands are transitioning from their focus on “studio-to-street” fashion, and are moving towards the for “studio-to-beauty” expansions. Deeply rooted in mindfulness and wellbeing, such products will be sure to interest beauty buyers in their quest for self-optimising, self-care brands.

THE CIC TAKE:

To tap this emerging sector, brands must go beyond performance-proof cosmetics and consider the wider wellness opportunity that lies in developing pre-and-post workout products, tapping the growing demand for whole body and mind care. Embrace fitness semantics to engage health-focused beauty buyers who will take every opportunity to optimise their wellbeing.

SOCIETAL WELLNESS - REDEFINING BEAUTY

Photo: David Suarez via Unsplash

Driven by the idea of collective responsibility, consumers are redefining the concept of care, moving the emphasis away from the self and onto their community. Brands are being challenged to follow where sentiment is leading, and more than ever before, beauty in the US is being seen as a rallying voice for change.

In our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, we explore the trend for Societal Wellness, where values-driven consumers are challenging brands to take a stand on the big issues and address beauty’s developing role as a therapeutic medium.

As the US grapples with a mental health crisis (10.6% of young people in the US identify as having severe depression, with multiracial youth at the most risk) and growing division over reproduction rights, now is not the time for brands to stay silent. Brands that fail to stand up and be counted may lose the support of their core consumerbase - one in four Gen Z will not spend with a brand that does not take a stance on the big issues. Intrinsic values trump external validation for this powerful cohort.

Below is a taster from our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, where we explore the trend for Societal Wellness through three distinct pathways: 

• SOUL-CARE - BEYOND WELLNESS

In the grip of a mental health crisis, consumers are seeking solutions that lie outside of conventional thinking and practices. This creates an interesting opportunity for beauty brands, particularly as consumers become more open to alternative treatments that allow them to access deeper emotional healing. Brands are exploring the universes that exist around spiritual wellness, medicinal psychedelics and ritualistic healing in order to engage consumers with the pursuit of a deeper wellness that goes beyond the surface.

• ACCESSIBILITY ENHANCED - BEAUTY FOR ALL

As consumers propel the momentum around social awareness, Pride celebrations and Black History Month are growing in significance as opportunities to bring attention to the contributions, and struggles, of marginalized people. In this context, consumers are challenging brands to deliver on their diversity best practices, and move forward with BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ talent at the fore. NPD reports that in the 12 months ending in February 2022, Black-founded beauty sales increased by 45%, while the rest of the market grew by 30%. 

• POLITIBEAUTY - BRANDS FOR CHANGE

As we live through a period marred by huge civil unrest and global crisis, brands are realizing that they need to be vocal in order to connect with today’s politicized consumers. In the wake of the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe Vs Wade, many key beauty brands have taken a bold stance on abortion rights and issues around women’s equality. The pro-choice message chimes with the overwhelming backlash to the verdict amongst Gen Z . Since the decision was made, well over 100 beauty and wellness brands have joined the Don’t Ban Equality coalition to protect access to reproductive healthcare. 

A full copy of the report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now. Drop us a line for more details, and discover an in-depth analysis of the US makeup sector through six emerging universes and 18 pathways to innovation.

A SNAPSHOT OF FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRENDS - FOCUS ON COLOR

Photo: Chandri Anggara from Unsplash

As part of our ongoing partnership with intelligence platform, Spate, we dive into the data behind their latest consumer report and decode what it means for the French and US beauty sectors.  

“Spate’s rich data analysis brings deeper insight to our understanding of these distinct markets,”  explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “We are able to leverage Spate’s search analysis data to confirm our prospective vision. It also helps us to better understand nuanced cultural differences and consumer behaviours.”

Spate’s latest report reveals the behavioural specificities emerging from each market. Here are our three major takeaways from the July 2022 France & America: Hair & Makeup Trends Report:

• The rise of warm red tones for hair color

In both countries, warm red tones dominate search volume changes. In France, searches for ginger hair are +2.0K; burgundy +1.3K; auburn +1K; and copper +700.  While red is the warmest color for French consumers, rising interest in babylights (+1.1K) also suggests a desire for subtlety. Likewise, in the US, red hair is the most searched for hair color with a volume increase of +213.4K, with copper (+36.2K), auburn (+35.8K), ginger (+32.3K) and red highlights (+29.0K) also all featuring in the top ten.  

Across both countries consumers are using more nuanced search descriptors to find their desired hair shade, often searching for various colors alongside red hair, demonstrating a growing desire for tonal color with dimension and depth - as well as suggesting a desire for individuality.

As we noted from Spate’s previous report on the US/France skincare market, French consumers lean into the classics - and the hair color category is no exception, with L’Oreal holding out as the most searched-for brand. However, US consumers appear to be more open to challenger brands, such as overtone  (+1.4K), adore hair colour (+350) and creme of nature (+260), which top out as the brands with the greatest search volume increase YoY. 

• Lipstick at the centre of interest

Lipsticks score high by search volume increase in both countries (+14% in France, +37,5% in the US). It is therefore not surprising that lipstick sales have seen a + 28% rise in Q2 -2022 in the US according to NPD. 

Long-wear and glossy are at the top of the list for French consumers (+1.7K and +1.1K respectively), while shine (+35.2K) and lasting (+16.1K) score highest for the US. 

Interestingly for a country so defined by its love of the classics, magic/colour-changing lipstick is a rising category for French consumers, breaking into the top three most-searched-for benefits with an increase of +770 YoY. 

• Eyeliners shift from classic to contemporary

Searches for eyeliner are at +8.9% in France and +11% in the US. While white and brown eyeliner are owning overall search volume in both territories, blue eyeliner is also increasingly growing on the consumer radar (+230 in France and +19.1K in the US). Green is also breaking through in the US at +12.5K, with classic black dropping into third place for both countries. 

The CIC Take 

French consumers are slowly shifting away from the classics, and are exhibiting growing interest in on-trend, contemporary colors and formulations. The uptick in searches for more niche lipstick benefits (such as ‘color-changing’, ‘waterproof’ and ‘sheer’) present opportunities for brands to inspire with innovative new concepts.  What is emerging is a shift towards greater expressions of individuality, which is apparent in growing searches for nuanced hair colors and bolder eyeliners. 

Download the full report here.

What’s Next

The agency will explore this opportunity in detail at the upcoming MakeUp in New York event, where Leila will be joined by Olivier Zimmer and Addison Cain of Spate to discuss the major global drivers fuelling the appetite for pleasure and individual expression. In the second of four Beauty Talks hosted by the agency at Makeup in New York, Leila, Olivier and Addison will deep dive into Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure, leveraging the most recent Spate consumer data insights, based on the analysis of online search data from the US, France and the UK.

Meet the team at the MakeUp in New York, September 14 & 15, 2022 at River Pavilion - Javits Center, New York

Beauty Talk #2 - Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure

September 14, 3:30 pm – 4:15 pm at the Beauty Agora

Seoul - The Retail Creative Hub

All aboard the Seoul Train!

In July we were finally able to resume our Seoul Inspiration Tour - our expert-curated guide to the beauty capital, created in partnership with South Korean retail experts, Latitude37.

We couldn’t have been happier to guide clients through a packed itinerary that covered K-beauty hot spots, pop-ups, cult brands, cool cafes, must-see exhibitions and the trendiest bars. Every single destination was selected by us, along with Latitude 37, with the sole aim to fire inspiration.

Below, is just a small taster of the type of retail hot spots you can expect from a week’s itinerary in the K-beauty capital.

1/ Dior Pop-Up - Luxury Redefined

Photo Credit: Dior

location: 7, Yeonmujang 5-gil, Seongsu-dong

product: RTW, accessories, cafe

dates: Until 2025

dior.com

Redefining the very idea of a pop-up, Dior goes BIG for Seoul, with a three-year plan to bring experiential luxury retail to the city’s trendy Seongsu-dong district. The facade of the vast 1,700 sqm building features a metal mesh structure with a glass roof, recalling the company’s newly renovated headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. The multi-storey boutique also features a cafe, where visitors can sup in front of a large digital screen that reproduces a trompe l’oeil replica of the gardens of Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, Normandy.

2/ Ader Space 3.0 - Sci-fi leap into the future

Ader Space - Photo by Latitude 37 for Cosmetics IC

location: 518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu

product: contemporary streetwear, accessories , cafe

adererror.com

Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store, in the Sinsa-dong area of Gangnam district, takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, Ader Error 3.0 is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. A changing room can double as a noraebang singing room, another opens to a room with a bunk bed, fixtures and fittings move on demand, and to reach the cafe, visitors have to walk through a hotel-like hallway.

 3/ Uncommon - Cashless redesigned

Credit: Uncommon store - Photo Yongjoon Choi

location: The Hyundai Seoul, 108 Yeoui-daero, Sixth Floor

product: convenience store

@uncommonstore_official

 The ultimate convenience store- cashless, staffless and all app-controlled, Uncommon comes from local architecture and design studio Archi@Mosphere. Before entering the store, consumers download an app, and then scan their phones at the entrance. They can then shop snacks, drinks, fresh fruits and a selection of toiletries with the app taking control of all payments. The store interior is a mash-up of minimalist futurism with retro signage.

Our Inspiration Tours

We tailor every Inspiration Tour to our client’s exacting needs, so drop us a line today to take the next step on your inspiration journey.

Every tour is guided and comes with a complete book with description, addresses and inspiration seeds.

DISRUPTION FOR THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY

photo: Maksim Gonchareno - Pexels

We’ve reached the climate crisis point, and as business leaders grapple with the challenges of sustainable sourcing and production, it’s clear that we are about to enter a period of disruption.

Sustainability First

New research from Bain & Company outlines the unsustainability of our current rate of consumption - we are using the equivalent of 1.75 times the earth’s natural resources every year. Businesses are now putting the principles of the circular economy into action as they try to get a handle on this crisis. And those in charge are full of positive intentions - the supply chain executives interviewed by Bain and Company say they are planning to double the share of the revenue from circular products and services by 2030.

They must follow the example of indie disruptors by examining how circular sourcing and production can actually spur growth and ultimately reduce costs; convert waste into assets, invest in biotech, look at ways of reducing and recycling carbon, and develop packaging with a continuous lifecycle.

Learning from Beauty

In the Beauty industry, we have seen how circular innovation has been pivotal to the success of insurgent brands, such as Plus Body Wash and its dissolvable sachets; Noble Panacea’s refill keepsakes, and the lab-grown actives that power Biossance products. Transitioning to a circular business model is now key to survival, as consumers demand accountability and action.

In our latest skincare report - The New State of Being - we highlight the key prospective theme of Empathy Awakened, through which we explore three pathways to a more sustainable and equitable future.

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses. 

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

Photo: Essence - Facebook

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K.  Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K). 

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three.  The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K.  Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches.  The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319. 

CIC TAKE

• The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.

• With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.

• Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.

The post-pandemic skincare reboot

CREDIT: COURTESY CAY SKIN

Healthy not perfect, is the new skincare mantra, as consumers prioritize care for the long term over short-term beautification. In our latest skincare report, A New State of Being: Inspiration from the US, we highlight the trend for Rebooted Defense, as consumers shift to a prevention-over-cure mindset.

With summer approaching, suncare and skin health are at the forefront of our minds, as we explore three pathways to innovation for brands looking to tap the rebooted skincare consumer:

1/ The barrier boom: The interest in the skin barrier has accelerated within younger consumer demographics, largely thanks to the educational content pushed by derma-influencers on TikTok- the hashtag #skinbarrier has clocked over 300 million views. Derma-positioned products are accelerating as consumers become more cautious, moving away from the goal of short term glow toward long term health. In this context, barrier cream is rising on the consumer radar - according to Spate, there are 8.5K searches on average every month in the US for ‘Barrier Repair’, a surge of +67.9% on last year. Pitched at Gen Z consumers, Byoma is an accessible, affordable, and approachable skincare brand that strengthens the skin and boosts the skin barrier with simple, effective formulations. Taking an educational approach, they explain the why and the how behind skin barrier repair on their Instagram.

2/ Hybridised suncare: In the US, more than 9,500 people are diagnosed with skin cancer every day, and rates of melanoma have been rising rapidly over the last thirty years.  With no more Covid restrictions and sunnier days driving Americans to spend increasing amounts of time outdoors, skintellectual consumers are seeking products that double-down on offering UV protection whilst maintaining a healthy biome. This is giving rise to the hybridisation of the sun-skincare categories, with many suncare native brands now widening the scope of their range. Sun Bum, which was known solely as a surfer’s sun protection brand, launched into the skincare sector in June 2021. The launch of Cay Skin the from Winnie Harlow under the motto "a skincare brand for everyone under the sun," is the perfect illustration of the new generation of suncare products: inclusive - with textures adapted to all skintones, skincare driven - with a custom blend of gentle island-based ingredients and high performance skincare actives and sustainable (silicone free- reef safe).

3/Skincare takes a trip: Consumer understanding of ‘health’ now encompasses both mental and physical vulnerabilities, with the skin being the barometer of internal health and general wellbeing. Alternative new wellness spaces and practices are emerging that meet contemporary lifestyle demands, with nature, medicine and micro-dosing converging to challenge conventional thinking. This preventative mindset is fuelling demand for alternative treatments and experiences that are designed to boost mental health,  such as ketamine therapy, guided psychedelic trips and micro-dosing. Speaking to Vogue.com, Sarah Chapman points toward self-care’s important role in maintaining mental wellbeing; “a radiant, clear complexion is a strong indication that the body is in a healthy state.”  Delivering an emotional boost through the power of scent, The Nue Co’s The  Mind & Body Fragrance is a unisex fragrance supplement that invigorates mental energy and boosts focus, using patented olfactory technology.  

The CIC Take:  In the post-pandemic reboot, psycho-biological care presents an exciting new sub-category for skincare brands to merge physical and emotional health.  As our knowledge of the effect external aggressors can have on our skin increases, our approach to skincare is changing to one of defense and protection.  Hitched to this is a growing understanding of physio-emotional synchronicity, as the skin becomes a barometer of our holistic wellbeing.

For a detailed dive into Rebooted Defense and other key US skincare trends, our extensive report, A NEW STATE OF BEING: Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now.

Contact us for more details.

London Calling! Inspiration Tours Return

London calling!

After months of silence, new retail concepts are emerging. Here is a quick recap from our latest Inspiration Tour, where we uncovered inspiring new hot spots, and immersive pop-ups.

1. JACQUEMUS x Selfridges 

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

name: Jacquemus Le Bleu

type: Fashion & Accessories

location: Selfridges, London

design: Random Studio, Jacquemus

dates: 03.05.22 – 04.06.22 

At London department store Selfridges, French fashion designer Simon Jacquemus has unveiled a series of surrealist pop-up installations, including a luxury bag vending machine and a swimming pool-inspired changing room.  Titled, Le Bleu, the immersive space is a surrealistic interpretation of the designers’ own bathroom.

Customers can shop the pop-up for exclusive colorways of the label's Chiquito and Bambino bags, as well as a mix of hoodies, tees, and select items from the recent Le Splash collection. Playing with the conventional retail format, customers can also access a  24-hour vending machine which is located behind the main store. The machines are filled with rows of bags and accessories, allowing customers to shop any time of day or night.

The CIC Take: This exciting project combines exclusive products with immersive experiences, and continues to reinforce Selfridge's position as London’s leading experiential retailer. Le Bleu strategically targets Gen Z, captivating customers through engaging new retail formats that organically gain traction on digital platforms such as Instagram and TikTok.

2. BALENCIAGA, New Bond Street

name: Balenciaga

type: Fashion & Accessories

location: 24/25 New Bond Street, London

design: Sub, Demna

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

Balenciaga’s latest London store follows the brand’s ambition to redefine luxury from the low points of the pandemic. The result, created in collaboration with Berlin design studio, Sub, is a modern take on raw luxury.

The interior reveals the bones of the building; exposed elements, an industrial material palette of concrete, resin and stainless steel, and limited use of virgin materials result in a striking, Brutalist space that challenges customers to look at products in a different way.

Dutch Designer Tejo Remy, created stand-out furniture for the store, including seating made from compacted bales of deadstock clothing, provoking shoppers to reconsider the lifecycle of materials.

The CIC Take: Balenciaga’s new store design strategy challenges customers to reassess the codes of luxury. Moreover, Balenciaga is taking a low-key approach to promoting store openings – an approach we have seen many brands testing, as consumers become wary of the hard sell method. 

3. GLOW BAR, Mortimer Street

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

name: Glow Bar

type: Beauty services

location: 70 Mortimer Street, London

Glow Bar focuses on holistic stress management solutions, alongside a retail, spa and cafe environment - it’s a unique self-care destination where women can drink adaptogen elixirs and then sweat out the stress in a state-of-the-art infrared sauna.

Sasha Sabapathy founded Glow Bar with the mission to help other women manage their stress levels by applying the strategies she learned to combat her own anxiety, which includes drinking adaptogenic herbal remedies, taking regular infrared saunas, aromatherapy and, of course, crystals. 

The CIC Take: Glow bar is an exciting new wellness retail concept where beauty, wellbeing and skincare blend with socialising and community-building. The space provides shopping, treatments, and a café all under one roof to create a true wellness lifestyle destination - specifically targeted at addressing women’s physiomotional needs.

4. GLOSSIER, King Street

name: Glossier

type: Makeup, skincare

location: 43 King St Covent Garden, London

design: Glossier

Photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation / @Cosmeticseeds

Located in one of Covent Garden piazza’s oldest surviving buildings, Glossier’s first international outpost impressively marries grandeur with modernity. Designed by the brand’s in-house team, the store is bathed in Glossier’s signature pink hue, with marble accents, perforated metal walls and parquet flooring. Original architectural features including arches and cornices add to the sense of opulence. In-store features include mirrors emblazoned with Glossier's slogan, "You Look Good”, and a "wet bar" where shoppers can play with testers and freshen up at individual sinks.

The CIC Take: The store design playfully balances heritage with Glossier’s fresh, modern style to create a dynamic space filled with tactile architectural elements. The “wet bar” sampling area represents a welcome return to in-store testing, encouraging touch and play in the post-pandemic beauty space.

OUR INSPIRATION TOURS ARE BACK…

Feeling inspired? For a more detailed tour of London’s vibrant beauty scene - from the legacy department stores to the latest pop-ups, the cult boutiques to the indie disruptors - then drop us a line to find out all you need to know about our curated Beauty Tours.

Come and join our team on an inspirational retail safari through London’s brightest and best beauty hot pots.

A Snapshot of French and American Trends - Focus on Skincare

Photo: Cottonbro via Pexels

To announce our new partnership with Spate, we kick off a series of updates from the Google search specialists with a deep dive into the latest consumer data analysis from the French Beauty sector. 

“We have been using the Spate US tool to support our Trend reports for two years now - it has become an invaluable asset as it allows us to enrich our research and observations with reliable, and insightful data. We are thrilled that the company is extending into France and other countries, to bring a much clearer understanding of cultural trends and consumer shifts, on a global scale,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Understanding cultural specificities through country-specific data analysis is an incredibly useful tool - particularly in the case of France and the US where cultural and historical differences are more marked. The latest data from Spate allows us to better understand the differences and similarities trending in both countries.

1. French hooked on the classics:

   The laser focus on skincare propelled by the pandemic is in decline, as French consumers shift their focus onto beautification. Yet, within the skincare space, what is emerging from Spate’s data is a picture of a French consumer who is hooked on classic products and brands, but with an eye on innovative ingredients that blend science with nature. 

   In the US market, novel and on-trend formats, such as face mask sticks (with an increase of +168.4K avg monthly searches) and gua sha oil (+7.2K avg monthly searches) are proving popular, while in France it is the trusted, classic products that are driving the most traffic. Serum tops out the most searched for in the face category (with a search volume increase of +4.8K avg monthly searches), with consumers looking for serum-based solutions to target spots, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. For the US consumer, anti-aging is the top concern with searches for ‘face serum + wrinkles’ averaging 21K searches per month.

2. Brand searches confirm natural and derma-brand interest:

   Confirming the dominance of the classics in the French consumer psyche, Clarins is the most popular brand (+7.4K increase in average monthly searches), followed by other tried-and-tested brands including Caudalie (+7.2K avg monthly searches) and La Roche Posay (+3.7K avg monthly searches). The most popular Clarins product is the Clarins Double Serum, reflective of serums as the top change driver amongst French consumers. 

3. Ingredient appeal - tech vs nature:

   Despite interest in scientific ingredients being less prevalent amongst French consumers compared to those in the US, what is emerging is a rising interest in alternative plant-derived ingredients. Notably, carrot oil is experiencing a surge in France (searches are +7.75% YoY, averaging 2.3K per month). Spate notes that in France, searches for ‘huile de carotte peau claire’, (‘light skin carrot oil’), suggests consumers are using the ingredient to treat skin discoloration or lighten the skin. 

   Scientific actives are also having a bit of a moment (albeit more tentatively than when these ingredients began to spike in the US some years ago), represented in search volume increases for salicylic acid (+856 avg monthly searches), spironolactone (+357 avg monthly searches), and bakuchiol (+281 avg monthly searches). Also in ascendance is niacinamide, which has had a search surge of +35.8% YoY alongside skincare in 2022.

The CIC x Spate Take: 

The classics reign in France. While US consumers are trend-led, French consumers are more comfortable with familiar, tried-and-tested brands and products. Yet, rising interest in scientific ingredients and innovative plant-derived alternatives presents an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers by revamping popular formats with exciting new ingredients. 

About Spate: The Spate dashboard analyzes over 20 billion online search signals to answer crucial questions for the beauty and wellness industry. They launch their French data set this month. The figures in this article and the report include France & US Google Search from April 2021 to March 2022 vs. April 2020 to March 2021. Don’t hesitate to download the report here.

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Join Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Leila Rochet for a unique Beauty Talk with Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, at Makeup in Paris on June 17 at 2:00 pm.

Register here for your seat.

Announcing Ulé - An Intrapreneurial Venture

The launch of Ulé in early May marked the culmination of a two-year collaboration between our agency and the Shiseido Group. Rooted in innovation and transparency, Ulé is a truly ground-breaking new beauty brand. 

“The goal of the brand is to respond to the growing concerns of consumers who are looking for more transparency from the industry as well as a prioritization of nature that integrates mindful technology to ensure uncompromising performance and safety,” explains Lindsay Azpitarte, Founder of Ulé. “With Ulé, the Shiseido Group is pioneering a new vision of beauty: reasoned beauty.”

1/ Born of an intrapreneurial mindset

The project was created in the spirit of “intrapreneurship” – a core team sitting within the Shiseido Group, guided and assisted by a blend of in-house and outside experts selected by the Creator Lindsay Azpitarte and Marketing Director Sandrine Henrie.  The agency’s Leila Rochet brought her expertise in innovation, and was joined by formulation specialist Frederic Burtin, ethno-botanist Patrice André and nutritionist Beatrice de Reynal. This core team was also supported by the Shiseido structure, led by Christophe Hadjur, which oversaw the regulatory and manufacturing aspects of the launch. 

The resulting brand structure marries the agility and ingenuity of a start-up with all the regulatory tools and testing processes of a 150-year old business.

2/ The vertical farming future

With transparency a driving motivation for Lindsay, finding a new way to bring potent, local ingredients to the formulation was key. Instead of sourcing from the other side of the world, usually in dry format, the scientists and experts worked on creating extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris. Working alongside urban agriculture start-up Tower Farm, Ulé is able to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant - leaf to root -  in the process. This partnership ensures 100% traceable plants and 100% fresh extracts.

“With our indoor method, we can recreate a new land where the plant is preserved and avoids stress, like it's wrapped in cotton wool. This allows the true nature of the plant to be revealed and also gives us access to molecular profiles that have never been worked on before. We can be extremely innovative, even working with recognised plants," explains Patrice André, Ethnobotanist for Ulé.

Ulé has created an eco-venient local solution using less land and less water. Smart technology creates the perfect environmental conditions for every plant - 19 individual factors are monitored 24/7. 

3/ Three complementary plants

Potent Ayurvedic plants that have been used since ancient times were selected for their synergistic effect on skin resilience; Coleus for protection, Centella for regeneration and Tulsi to destress. Combined, these plants represent the trifecta of botanical beauty. 

 4/ A unique method of extraction

The process of creating Ulé’s powerful botanic blend begins just 150km from the farm. The cold extraction method is inspired by age-old techniques and begins with extracting the water of the plant to create a concentrated extract, followed by the slow maceration of the plant to derive a pure botany tincture. This proprietary method has been developed by scientists to create the most potent extract of the three plants, which are at the core of all the serum formulas (at 55%).

5/ Positive vision of resilience

Ulé is a lifestyle brand that believes that beautiful skin is resilient, able to maintain its vitality and gracefully adapt to the changing world around it.  The brand is infused with positivity and liveliness, approaching the botanical and sustainability space with zeal. Nature is respected, allowing users to find their joie de vivre. 

This lightness is reflected throughout the brand’s narrative - product names are a twist of French and English such as Joie de Youth, Oh la Plump, Tout est Clear, and Avoir It All.  Playful semantics are of course balanced with a rigorous dedication to efficiency; products are supplemented with peptides, hyaluronic acid, pre-pro-post biotics, and even CBD. And the brand supports its vision with skin, gender and age-inclusive visuals - every product has been tested on all tones of beauty phototypes..

6/ Keeping a sustainable mindset

True to Lindsay’s original vision, Ulé is built on the spirit of radical traceability. It is a rigorously local brand - 84% of ingredients are sourced in France, 96% of which are of minimum natural origin. Products are packaged in ultra-light glass bottles, bio-sourced Sudapac lids and printed with eco-responsible lacquers. With its laser focus on traceability and provenance, Ulé has developed products that travel just 340 km from seed to bottle. 

CIC’s Take: 

Tomorrow’s brands cannot succeed without a sustainably-minded approach - work on the concept of Conscious Beauty before even working on the project itself. 

"I think that we should aim for 'reasoned beauty', i.e. acting transparently and consciously, realizing the impact of our actions. Innovation can no longer be just about performance and pleasure, it must also be accompanied by a holistic approach to improvement, and a more respectful attitude towards the skin, nature, the environment and towards people." 

Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation 

Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022