EXTRA-VAGANCE: BRINGING THE EXTRA-ORDINARY INTO THE EVERYday, MAKEUP IN LOS ANGELES 2024

As TikTok’s influence over beauty continues to ascend, luxury brands are adapting viral trends to their house codes, while enshrining the levels of exclusivity and innovation that set them apart. Joining Leïla Rochet to decode the evolution of luxury beauty was Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research at Chanel for one of Cosmetics IC Beauty Talks hosted in MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024.

Source: Leila Rochet / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - MakeUp In Los Angeles 2024 / Eileen Kim

Thanks to their worldwide innovation centers, Chanel's scientific team is challenged to push back its limits and seek to develop new technologies and innovations. Motivated by the different regulations on which they depend in the creation and formulation of their products, particularly in terms of sustainability, but also by the needs and ideas of new generations, Chanel is keen to push their research to an even higher level and believes in the continuous drive to do better.

Leïla Rochet: Can you explain a little bit more about your role at Chanel?

Eileen Kim: Chanel has innovation centers across the world. I have the pleasure of leading the US Innovation and Research Center. Our mission overall is to seek out new technologies and to also push innovation for future skincare and makeup products, worldwide. We also partner with universities, startups, and industry experts, who can help us to seek out new technologies.

Leïla: Chanel is known for its unique texture, exceptional formulation, and very high-quality finish. What are the primary challenges when it comes to reaching those performance levels?

Eileen: We have regulations now that impact the products we create, and the ingredients that we use. This helps us to find new solutions. Another wonderful challenge is the new generation of consumers and their ideas. It’s so important for us to empathize with them, to understand their needs, their values, and what influences what they're going to buy and how they're going to use it. And of course, we have sustainability and CSR - that's a wonderful challenge that is at the heart of innovation today.

Leïla: Could you talk a little about one of your most recent product launches?

Eileen: The 31 launch is a beautiful example because it captures the essence of Chanel. The product packaging was inspired by the iconic staircase at 31 rue Cambon, while the refillable case is a new innovation. The formula itself has been carefully designed with different ingredients, including Gardenia oil that is specific to Chanel, and an active that brings skincare benefits to the lips. The beautiful packaging is a part of Chanel that you can keep, and pass down. It's a really nice example of innovation, legacy, and creation.

Leïla: How do you keep up with the trends and stay ahead of the latest innovations?

Eileen: That's a big challenge! We have a team of scientists who are experts in chemistry, and they go out and seek new technology and envision what this technology can bring. It’s important that we not only look at the beauty industry but at pharma, food, and agriculture… Inspiration can come from anywhere.

Leïla: How do you envision the future? You’ve talked about naturals and sustainability - how do you see that market evolving?

Eileen: I think sustainability regulations are having a really positive impact on our industry. We have to find advanced solutions to create the next generation of products, so sustainability and CSR are really pushing innovation forward. This is causing scientists like us to find new solutions that will be more efficient, better for the environment, better for people. I feel regulations will bring our products to a new level, and we can be proud of that.

We see lots of AI tools. I hope it will advance how we work, how we discover. And then there’s Gen Z and Gen Alpha. I think they're a very interesting generation, and luxury will be a way for them to self-express. I think what the beauty industry has always been, is purposeful. I'm really happy that I am part of that and I'm looking forward to seeing where it goes in the future.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

• TikTok should be a core element of your brand strategy as a source of inspiration for future innovation, and increasingly as a retail outlet

• Authenticity is key when it comes to social media virality and meaningful engagement

• Social media users are interested in products and brands linked to luxury moments, events, and experiences (concerts, red carpets, etc)

• Gen Z are ingenious at finding ways to feed their appetite for luxury on a budget (e.g., dupes and ‘repotting’ into luxury brand packaging)

• Explore ways of introducing novel luxury gestures into consumers lives - from keepsake packaging to extravagant new applications (e.g., teeth gems, hair makeup)

MEET THE FOUNDER - Talking Clean Beauty with Annie Jackson, CEO and Co-Founder of Credo

Annie Jackson is one of the most influential female leaders in the US, she has been a key player in the beauty space since her early career with Estee Lauder before becoming part of the team that launched Sephora USA. Just over a decade ago, Annie co-founded the clean beauty retailer Credo, which is now firmly established as one of America’s top sustainable beauty champions. 

“Annie Jackson is one of the leading voices in the clean beauty and sustainability movement. As co-founder and now CEO of Credo, Annie is uniquely positioned to offer insight into the evolution of the clean beauty space and share her thoughts on how the industry must adapt to ensure a better tomorrow. With value being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, brands are being driven to consider the future implications of products. Credo is a pro-active steward of progress, working alongside brands to evolve sustainability standards that go far beyond current consumer expectations.” Leila Rochet – Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

At the recent MakeUp in Los Angeles event, Annie joined our Chief Innovation Officer, Leila Rochet, to discuss one of the agency’s key trends for 2024 - Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future.

Read on for an exclusive extract of Leila and Annie’s Beauty Talk, where Annie shares her vision for the future of clean beauty and reveals the shifting priorities of Credo consumers.

Leila Rochet: How did your journey into Beauty unfold, leading to your role today as CEO of Credo? 

Annie Jackson: We started on the concept for Credo back in 2013 and opened our first store in 2015. We just opened our 16th location. We are a physical retail concept. While digital is very important to any business today, meeting the customers where they are in neighborhoods, where people are living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, and investing in their health, is where you will find a Credo. We want people to be able to explore and find new brands, try the products, and work with our estheticians and makeup artists. And that's our continued focus. 

Back in 2013 we really wanted to see if you could make a brand that was as efficacious as a conventional beauty brand in formula and packaging but with primarily plant ingredients in more sustainable options. We took the cue from the organic food movement and realized that people were investing in healthier options and educating themselves on what products they wanted to buy.  So we were curious, could we find enough brands to fill this store? We opened our first store in San Francisco, going head to head-with conventional beauty brands. We started with about 60 brands and we have 105 today. About a quarter of those brands we started with are still with us a decade later. 

Leila: There must have been a lot of challenges when you started. How do they compare to the challenges you face today? 

Annie:  Well, I think I can safely say for any entrepreneur or any founder out there, it's never a straight line. We had the COVID crisis in the middle of trying to grow a physical retail business, which is extremely capital-intensive.  Also, when we started we had this ecosystem of brands which were really celebrating finding a retail partner and wanted to grow alongside us.  The customer base has now grown so much that these brands are scaling and growing into bigger retailers, which is amazing. The fact that retailers with a larger footprint than Credo are committed to putting safer products on their shelves is an amazing thing. But from a business standpoint, it becomes quite challenging because that hurts our market share. It's a tricky one.

Yet, it hasn't made us any less passionate about what we do. We are striving to make a positive impact in the beauty industry and so we're often shoulder to shoulder with our competitors - Sephora, Ulta, Detox Market, and others. But you know, we're all in this together. And I think the more we can band together to make better choices for human health, it's a good thing.

Leila: How do you make sure that the products that you sell in your retailers are the safest ones? 

Annie: Before, we were manually checking products against our standard, but today we use a technology platform called Novi. We've also invested in a rock star team of impact specialists who come from environmental, toxicology, and science backgrounds, to help guide us. Today,  what we're doing as an organization is questioning if there could be a better way. For us, the secret sauce is finding brands that are not just meeting our standards, they're exceeding them, or they have a path to exceed. What makes me so proud of the brand community that we have is that these people have rolled up their sleeves and done the hard work - they're paying more money, and they're taking more time to bring products to market. And they're challenging the contract manufacturing community to look at other ingredients and explore other options. 

Leila: How do you help your consumers navigate all these changes and what are you seeing as their priority? 

Annie: From the outset, our customers have always been concerned about packaging. In the early days, while we vetted brands against a restricted substance list,  consumers were always saying, “I hate all this plastic!”. Customers are absolutely invested in being part of the solution. We co-founded the packaging collection program Pact Collective along with other stakeholders, but we also have the conversation on the selling floor about what is recyclable. The next thing that's top of mind for us is looking at ingredients that have no data and examining the assumption that they're safe or good for you. So we're starting to dig into that with Chem Forward, who are a nonprofit partner. It may mean that some products at Credo go away, but, you know, that's why we're here and that's the work that we're doing today.

Leila: According to Nielsen IQ - 61% of US consumers associate sustainability with benefiting the planet, while just 26% associate it with societal contributions. Credo has been active on matters like ethical sourcing of Mica, do you see ethical transparency as the next step for the industry?

Annie: Yes, I do. I think whether people are buying beauty products, or beer, or cars, they are much more invested in finding out information before they choose a product. And so it could be a source of ingredients, it could be packaging, it could be what a founder says on social media… it could be all of those pieces together. Gen Z has the highest bar of any customer out there, and they expect you to have all these things in place. They want the product to be all those things, with an entry-level price point, and a cool look and feel. They want it all. And that generation is growing up, they've got more spending power, and those are the brands that they're looking for. So I think it's a super exciting time. 

Leila: Education is one of Credo's core pillars - what tools and techniques do you use to educate consumers?

Annie: We have an education team and we invest most of our time in terms of associated selling preparation on training. Our dream is to have our brands be as well known on the selling floor as the brand founders themselves know them. We want our sales associates to know our brands intimately, so we spend most of our time on education, in terms of brand product knowledge, but also on what our standards are. I would say probably the most engaged customer that we have at Credo is someone who's expecting a child. These people are typically really invested in the choices they're making. 

Leila: In a previous interview in Vogue Business, you talked about moving “beyond clean beauty”, can you explain what you mean by this? 

Annie: It's really about moving beyond the restricted substance list, and understanding that the customer has embraced a much more holistic view of what clean or green beauty means to them. It involves packaging, people, ethics… just real transparency. I can say from experience that Beauty is a pretty opaque industry, and it’s not inherently forthcoming about what's in products, and who the people are that these brands are working with. By no means does Credo have everything figured out perfectly, but we're digging into things that should be very transparent to the customer. That's what people expect today. 

When I was talking about going beyond clean, it is because people tend to hear “clean beauty”, and they just think of ingredients, and that's it. But we're embarking on meeting our first sustainable packaging milestone this year, where our brand partners needed to reach 50% or greater PCR content. We put that out in the universe in 2020 and that's where we've been spending most of our time. From an ingredients standpoint, it's much more cut and dry, like, do you have these ingredients, or don't you? But on the packaging front, it's really been us linking arms with our brand partners and saying, we got to do better. We have to at the end of the day. The reality is we're in an industry where we sell products, and so if you're going to do that then let's invest in things that are just better for people and the planet.

KEY TAKEAWAYS:

• Consumers want increasingly healthier options that align with their healthy lifestyles and are educating themselves before making purchase decisions.

• Brands must be prepared to pay more and work harder to achieve outstanding results and push the culture of clean beauty forward. Dig deeper, and engage with technology platforms to help validate ingredients and materials.

• Packaging remains a key sticking point for the beauty industry and is a top concern for sustainably-motivated consumers. 

• Young consumers have a much wider definition of clean beauty that encompasses ingredient safety, packaging, ethical sourcing, and social purpose.

• Retailers should center education in staff training and services to meet the consumer’s level of knowledge and enhance the product discovery experience on the shop floor.

To discover more about our key territory for 2024, Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future, contact the Cosmetics IC team today for your copy of our 2024 White Book: The Age of Thrill. Many thanks to the wonderful Annie Jackson, and all of our brilliant guest speakers at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024!

Ingredient Inspiration: Cosmet’Agora 2024

Arthur Mazi via Unsplash

The 16th edition of Cosmet’agora was held in Paris on 16 - 17 January 2024, showcasing the latest ingredient and formulation innovations. Fresh from the event, our Scientific & Product Expert, Enora Le Roux, deciphers the emerging ingredient trends that will impact tomorrow’s beauty. Below, discover 3 fields of innovation to inspire your future product creation.

“This year saw the influx of technology and science as the answer to tomorrow’s primary concerns around issues of sustainability, innocuity, and wellness.”  Scientific & Product Expert at Cosmetics IC, Enora Le Roux. 

1. Biotech - When nature meets new extraction technologies

Google search data reveals there is still high demand for biotech ingredients (+7.5% YoY, with a forecast increase of +24.3% over the next 12 months, according to Spate), as consumers lean into the possibilities of tech-enhanced nature to support their high-performance expectations. 

Provital – CircanblueTM (July 2023)

As the conversation around cyclical biorhythms gains traction in the wellness space (#circadianrhythm – 116.6M views on TikTok, January 2024) Provital demonstrates how overexposure to digital technology disrupts the peripheral circadian clocks in the skin, which play a key role in regulating its physiological metabolism. 

In response, Provital developed Circanblue™,  a vegan postbiotic active obtained via a plant-based fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. It re-synchronizes the skin’s natural circadian cycle after this has been altered by excessive Blue Light exposure - a concern growing amongst consumers on social media (#bluelight – 471.8M views on TikTok, January 2024) as they align their wellness and skincare goals.

Key Assets:

Vegan postbiotic / Obtained through biotechnology from cabbage (fermentation) / Regulates the skin’s circadian clock 🡪 “circabiology – science of resynchronization” / Regulates the impact of Blue Light on the circadian cycle

Lipotrue – Calisensix (January 2024)

Addressing rising cases of skin sensitivity, Lipotrue has developed Calisensix, a unique solution that resolves neurogenic inflammation while at the same time enhancing pleasant sensations in the skin.

Calisensix™ targets sensitive skin from both a holistic (sensorial) and biological approach, using plant stem cell technology obtained from the bark of white willow and tomato plants. There is growing interest in the potential regenerative benefits of stem cells for skincare - Spate reports a +27% increase in Google searches YoY( 2022 vs 20223), while TikTok views of #stemcells have clocked over 231.7M (January 2024).

Key Assets:

Resolves neurogenic inflammation / Targets nociception in keratinocytes / Boosts PIEZO1 to enhance pleasant sensations in sensitive skin

Biolie – Garnet Red (January 2024)

Meeting the continued demand for ultra-healthy cosmetics ingredients, Biolie has developed a solvent and water-free enzymatic extraction process - a zero-waste, 100% green technology. This bio-based enzymatic extraction method enables the creation of natural actives from plant-based raw materials, such as microalgae, beechnut, chicory seed, and lettuce. The lab’s latest ingredient, launched at the show, is Garnet Red - a natural lipophilic red dye for makeup and skincare applications.

Key Assets:

Natural antioxidant / Stable to heat and UV / Sustainable, 100% natural / Vegan alternative to Carmin

2. Longevity - Answering pro-aging/pre-aging concerns

The science and semantics of longevity are entering the skincare conversation, as the desire to live longer and healthier impacts consumers’ expectations of skincare performance. Biohacking culture, spurred by outrageously ambitious procedures undertaken by Silicon Valley billionaires, is taking over TikTok, with views of #reverseaging videos clocking over 180.7M views (January 2024).

In skincare, “anti-aging” ingredients are now “pro-longevity” ingredients. 

Lubrizol – Uplevity e-Lift Peptide (September 2023)

Tapping into the rising interest in Microcurrent Facials (+27% increase in Google searches in 2023 vs 2022, according to Spate), Lubrizol has captured the uplifting and firming results of microcurrent devices into a sustainable and naturally derived tetrapeptide. The powerful active mimics the benefits of electrical stimulation on the skin, increasing collagen production and improving mitochondrial function for an anti-aging effect. 

Key Assets:

Peptidic active / For lifting and firming effect / Focus on the up of the face (eye contour) / Inspired by the effect of the microcurrent tools: stimulate an electric stimulation of the derma (cell contraction) / Results at 7 and 28 days

Mibelle – RejuveNAD (November 2023) 

The role of NAD+ in cellular processes continues to gather interest, with consumer searches for NAD up +24.2% YoY (2023 vs 2022, Spate), as they investigate ways of boosting regeneration for anti-aging results. 

RejuveNAD™from Mibelle introduces the possibility of boosting NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications (rather than via supplements). The ingredient, derived from indoor-farmed sunflower sprouts,  targets age-related processes by optimizing cellular functions, and revitalizing the skin by naturally boosting levels of NAD+. According to Mibelle, the skin looks eight years younger in 42 days. Google searches for NAD have increased +24.2% YoY 

Key Assets:

NAD booster / For skin longevity / Obtained from sunflower sprouts from indoor farming / Acts on 5 of the 9 pillars of skin aging

3. Adaptive: Formulating for climate-adaptive freshness 

The post-pandemic revenge travel surge is set to continue, with 54% of respondents saying they’ll take even more international trips in 2024 than they did in 2023 (Going – The State of Travel – 2024). A culture of nomadism is fuelling a new category of Flexcare - beauty adapted for the unique specificities of travel, which prioritizes convenience and freshness. In this context, we noted several key innovations that center claims of climate-adaptiveness and refreshing sensations. 

The return of travel and rising global temperatures are driving consumers to search out cooling and refreshing sensations - TikTok views of the hashtags #skincarecooling and #skincooling are at 280.1M and 43.8M, respectively ( January 2024).

Unipex – Frozen Glow - Meeting this rising demand is Unipex’s Frozen Glow, which is formulated for a deeply refreshing effect. Frozen Glow contains peppermint leaf water, which stimulates blood circulation to restore the skin’s radiance and impart cooling and toning benefits. 

Key Assets:

Solid emulsion water/wax / Contains H2Olixir Peppermint from Berkem for purifying, toning, and refreshing / A combination of two inverse emulsifiers: Evicare® PGPR from Evident & GlucateTMDO from Lubrizol / Using a new brand’s technology to add hydrophilic actives

PolymerExpert – AquaStick

Combining the need for a convenient format with refreshing effects, the AquaStick is formulated to deliver the fresh feeling of water on the skin, with the soothing sensation of a cream. There is huge interest in on-the-go suncare formats - TikTok views of the hashtag #skincarestick are at 277.8B (January 2024) - presenting a huge opportunity for innovation.

Key Assets: 

Innovating galenic: solid format with 50% of aqueous phase / 100% natural fragrance with aquatic notes that enhance the sensation of freshness

Roelmi France - Ready Stick Go

Designed specifically to combat the effects of sports on the skin, the water-free stick contains microbiota actives that impart a cooling effect while keeping the skin hydrated during activities.

Key Assets:

Water-free / Fast hydration / Cooling effect / Multitasking functionality 

Special thanks to all the exhibitors for taking the time to explain their new ingredients.

The CIC Take

In our latest Skincare Inspiration from the US report – Transformative Beauty - we explore the product and ingredient innovations impacting the US market and decipher the implications for future innovations.

Contact us today for your copy, and for details of our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024). Find us at booth L36, where we will host our signature Inspiration Bar and Beauty Talks, highlighting our future predictions for 2024 and beyond.

TikTok: 2023 End of Year Inspiration

To wrap up a year of inspiration, the CIC team has analysed the TikTok trends that dominated in the last months of 2023 - from superhero-inspired effects and sugar-glazed wintery hues to intentionally unsettling makeup. 

1. RAINBOW MASK

With its links to the LGBTQIA+ pride flag, Rainbow Mask makeup involves creating a spectrum of colours across the eye area, in the shape of a superhero mask. To begin, two strips of tape are placed on the face, above and below the eyes, to create a defined area for applying makeup.

White eyeshadow powder is then applied as a base, with different colours layered on top to create a rainbow effect. The tape is removed to reveal the mask effect. For finishing touches, the look is enhanced with hand-drawn artistry, gems and 3D embellishments.

There are alternative approaches, such as James Charles' preference for a mask in shades of pink with clouds, but the fundamental concept remains the same.

Key hashtags: #rainbowmask: 3.5M views / #rainbowmakeup: 349.5M views

Key influencers: @lucasrodgerss/ @mimiermakeup/ @beatsbydeb/ @nikkietutorials/ @jamescharles  

2. Sugar Plum Fairy

Once again, Hailey Bieber triggered another viral makeup trend, this time fusing food-inspired narratives with her signature, Clean Girl coquettishness to declare winter 23/24, Sugar Plum Fairy season. Inspired by her childhood role in The Nutcracker, Bieber posted a festive look that riffs on the ballet’s iconic Land of Sweets segment, using sugary, shimmery pink hues with plum undertones.

To create the look, bright pink blush is extended from the cheeks to the temple and draped across the bridge of the nose and the eyes to create a frost-bitten glow.  Plum, berry, warm pink, and mauve colours are also used by TikTokkers, reflecting the look on different skin tones. Defining her brows and adding a subtle glow with highlighter, Bieber then adds faux freckles. The look is completed by the Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment in the limited-edition shade Jelly Bean (a shimmery sheer pink).

Sugar Plum Fairy makeup builds on several key trends that surfaced last year (most of which were perpetuated by Bieber herself), blending the glow of #CleanGirl with the pink hues of #Balletcore.

Rising hashtags: #sugarplumfairy: 129M views/ #ballet: 19.8B views/ #balletcore: 1.4B views

Key influencers: @haileybieber/ @alissajanay1/ @victorialyn

3. Uncanny Valley Makeup

The Uncanny Valley trend, popularised by creator Emilia Barth, gained widespread attention at the end of 2023, thanks to her unsettling transformation into a humanoid robot. Using pale foundation and concealer, liquid eyeliner, and contour powder, Barth mimics the plasticky appearance of a robot’s skin, creating an eerily captivating effect.

The look is inspired by the slightly awkward imagery often generated by AI, which has flooded the public consciousness in recent months. TikTokkers have been quick to capture this uneasy aesthetic by recreating the almost otherworldly looks. Part robotic and part doll-like, the finished result is purposefully unnerving, with TikTokkers adding exaggerated facial expressions and haunting choral music to double-down on the uncanny effect. The trend now extends beyond mere makeup application, to include an Uncanny Valley-inspired filter. With its esoteric and unconventional themes, #UncannyValley occupies the same universe as #weirdcore and #dreamcore, as Gen Z continues to explore increasingly extreme and subversive narratives as a form of self-expression.

Rising hashtags: #uncannyvalleymakeup: 233.5M views

Key influencers: @blonde.girlyy/ @mimiermakeup/ @yodelinghaley 

The CIC Take

TikTok continues to prove to be a vital indicator of the motivations of Gen Z, and our latest Trend Book, Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US is enriched with the latest TikTok data (provided by our partner, Spate), which feeds our prospective research and trend analysis. In it, we explore the latest consumer shifts and how these are impacting makeup - including the evolution of subversive messaging, as consumers embrace increasingly unconventional - and unhinged - aesthetics.

Contact us today for more information on Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US.

TIKTOK: September Trend Inspiration

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover the next food-inspired beauty trend and the controversial music video that is inspiring TikTokkers to experiment with provocative beauty looks. 

1. STRAWBERRY MAKEUP by Hailey Bieber 🍓💋

Naming skin trends after food has become a trend in itself, and despite some backlash, TikTokkers continue to latch on to these buzzy terms. From latte makeup to potato makeup, food-related shades are capturing the imagination. 

In August, strawberry makeup went viral, thanks to Hailey Bieber uploading a photo of herself with a dewy, fresh look, signed off with the emojis: 🍓💋. In doing so, she inadvertently created this summer’s signature beauty trend, #strawberrymakeup. Perhaps not coincidentally, Bieber timed her strawberry post with the launch of a new lip treatment flavour by her brand Rhode; Strawberry Glaze. 

The strawberry makeup look is defined by a quick, fresh summer makeup that continues Bieber’s signature style of a glowy, rosy, light complexion created using creamy products. The T-zone is illuminated, while the contour is accentuated by a darker bronzer. The key element is "false freckles", which have been a constant feature over the summer. Finally, the lip contour is worked with a lip pencil and then a gloss to finish.

Key Influencers: @andrea_subotic/ @jamescharles / @glowwithnorhane

Rising Hashtags: #strawberrymakeup – 308.6M views / #strawberrygirl – 60.4M views (September 14, 2023)

Spate Data: TikTok searches for Strawberry Makeup +4386,5% YoY (September 11, 2023)

2. CONTROVERSY by Doja Cat🩸🥀

Doja Cat has never been shy of courting controversy and her latest song, “Paint the Town Red”, is her most provocative creation yet. The TikTok-famous dance anthem flirts with themes of satanic worship, feeding the cultural appetite for transgressive content. In the music video, she is seen embracing the grim reaper, throwing raw meat, wearing pentagrams and devil horns. 

Doja Cat’s creative subversions have a loyal following on social media, triggering copycat makeup looks inspired by the themes explored in her controversial content. Adjacent looks play with the aesthetic codes of Paint the Town Red: new romantic, vampiric and gothic gestures,  blood red lips outlined with a darker pencil, black and red graphic eyes, fake blood artistry and mis-applied mascara. 

Key Influencers: @tyra.mua/@makeup.lois/ @k.figaszewska/ @jeamyblessed/ @anemariemua/ @sophiasinot

Rising Hashtags:  #dojacat – 28.3B views/  #demonsdojacat – 3.4M views/ #painttownred – 6.9M views/ I paint the town red makeup – 18M views (September 14, 2023)

3. WRINKLE ART - taking it back to 2018 -🌪️

The latest creative beauty hack doing the rounds on TikTok was spurred by @nettart (27.7K followers on Tiktok), who created the look that she calls, "metallic chic". To achieve a wrinkle-effect, the model is asked to squeeze their eyes shut tightly, and then metallic pigment is worked over the folds of the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Once the eyes are open a stencil-like effect is created from the negative space of the folds.

Key Influencers: @catquinn / @josiezhou1028/ @meicrosoft/ @f.bermann/ @arsonblue/ @julias_makeup_palette

Rising Hashtag: #wrinklemakeup – 97.8K views (September 14, 2023

The CIC Take

The popularity of Doja Cat’s often shocking social media content confirms the shift towards transgressive beauty influences. Brands should take confidence in the consumer appetite for edgy, alternative looks and develop products that fuel the desire for subversive experiences: such as sticky, visceral textures, gore embellishments, and prosthetics that dramatically alter the features.

INSPIRATION TOUR: SEOUL RETAIL SNAPSHOT

This month, CIC Chief Inspirations Officer Leila Rochet has been shopping and gallery hopping in Seoul, traversing the K-beauty capital to source the latest cult products, cutting-edge innovations and creative inspirations to feed the agency’s trend division.

When it comes to Beauty it’s hard to beat South Korea for innovation - from ground-breaking formulations, game-changing trend directions and awe-inspiring retail concepts. And retail has never been so dynamic, propelled by local brands that play with the codes of K-style.

Read on to discover 3 of Leila’s Seoul retail highlights:

1. ADER ERROR

518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, the space is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. Ader is also phygital retailing pioneer - customers can shop and try on goods virtually via Zepeto, take an online VR tour, or interact with in-store digital artworks and interfaces.

Inspiration Seeds: The store’s emphasis on experience encourages customers to truly discover, and engage with, the products. The giant fountain at the centre of the store is a highlight, but in the Ader world nothing is quite as it seems: a changing room can also double as a noraebang singing room, fixtures and fittings move on demand. 

2. WIGGLE WIGGLE.ZIP

1 Eonju-ro 168-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This joyful multilevel concept store truly lives up to the lifestyle brand’s motto of, “let's make the obvious fun”. And so, over four floors, you will discover a riot of super-colourful homewares, accessories, pet products, toiletries and trinkets featuring the brand’s signature flower or bear motif. 

Inspiration Seeds: A favourite with K-Pop icons including BLACKPINK’s Jennie, Wiggle Wiggle.Zip is unapologetically playful. The store features a number of key interactive areas that are primed for Instagram photos and TikTok videos, where shoppers can pose with props against colourful backdrops, hang around in ‘upside down’ rooms or try out toiletries in a section styled like a cutesy home bathroom. 

3. THE PERFUME CLUB BY SOOHYANG

28 Seongsui-ro 7-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul

Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This unique perfume gallery plays to rising connoisseurship by presenting a library of scents. Situated in a former perfume factory, the under-the-radar retail space and workshop is purposefully moody and mysterious, creating a sophisticated environment in which to discover luxury scents by Soohyang. 

Inspiration Seeds: This hidden gem in the upcoming neighbourhood of Seongsu is dedicated to the discovery of new scents. Presented as a social space where people can come together over a common interest in scent, it is a unique space that perfectly illustrates Seoulista’s rising interest in perfumes.

The CIC Take:

Our bespoke Inspiration Tours are uniquely tailored guides to key cities covering retail, galleries, museums, architectural hot spots, and the coolest places to eat and drink. Our partners, Latitude37, are our boots-on-the-ground in Seoul, and as local retail experts - we work closely with the Latitude team to ensure our guides are packed with the latest hotspots and openings.

Following our recent research trip, we can also compile a detailed Retail Report where we will explore the latest openings, consumer shifts and social influences impacting Seoul’s dynamic retail scene.

If you are interested in an Inspiration Tour of Seoul (or any other Beauty city) or a Retail Report please drop us a line today to discuss your needs!

All pictures are from our Agency and copyright protected. Please do not share without prior approval.

Genderful Beauty: Makeup for men hits the mainstream

Source: Pleasing x Marco Ribeiro

Thanks to an influx of TikTok creators, the male makeup category is finally having its moment. Fuelled by the boom in #GRWM (Get Ready With Me) videos, men are more comfortably - and confidently - experimenting with colour cosmetics. In a short period of time, the trend for male makeup has shifted from the red carpet to the shelves of High Street retailers. 

Our agency’s latest US Makeup Inspiration book: Beauty’s New Manifesto, explores this new arc of masculine beauty, defined not by an aesthetic ambiguity but by an embracing of all male archetypes. 

1- Do you want to #GRWM (Get Ready With Me)?

With 96.4B views on TikTok, the #GRWM hashtag has become one of the most popular in the beauty sphere, as creators share their multistep makeup routines with their followers. Its popularity among male users and content creators has accelerated since the pandemic, propelling the normalisation of men-in-makeup and creating strong consumer demand for male-leaning products and messaging. 

Male makeup brand Stryx has built a strong TikTok following thanks to its #GRWM content, which is often fronted by its founder Jon Shanahan. Stryx pushes the boundaries of male beauty beyond gender fluidity: videos where a moustached Shanahan shows how to apply makeup often perform better than those featuring men without facial hair. This type of content is helping to propel men-in-makeup into a new space of acceptance.

Key hashtags: 

 #GRWM: 96.4B views

#mensmakeup: 363.7 million

#boysmakeup: 22M views

2- A Pleasing Sentiment

In our US Makeup Inspiration book, we highlight the continued influence of Harry Styles’ Pleasing.  The brand continues to drive a powerful and genderful approach with inclusive visuals that show products against all genders, skintones and ages.  Pleasing empowers men to be part of the colour cosmetics conversation.

The brand’s recent collaborations - a makeup range with fashion designer Marco Ribeiro (September 2022) and the Pollinators nail varnish micro-collection (April 2023) - are designed to encourage infinite experimentation through bold colors - whatever your gender. 

Taking a leaf from Pleasing’s playbook, Good Weird is a new genderless Gen Z beauty brand (March 2023) founded by two men and fronted by American model, actor and skateboarder Evan Mock. The brand’s hero product is a bronzer stick that comes in a range of skin-inclusive shades.

3- Mainstreaming Masc Beauty

As the momentum behind male makeup gathers pace, High Street retailers and mass market brands are recognising the growing demand for male-focused products. 

UK retailer Boots is bolstering its male grooming offer with the introduction of UK indie brand, Shakeup Cosmetics. The range on offer will include an undereye concealer, tinted BB moisturiser and lip-plumping gel. While in late 2022 Rimmel London named Olympic athlete Tom Daley as tit’s first-ever global male beauty ambassador. 

The CIC Take

The consumer perception of masculine stereotypes is rapidly evolving thanks to a new era of male beauty icons and the democratization of skincare and beauty, propelled by TikTok. There is an opportunity for brands to be bold and pitch to the growing male market with messages of creativity and freedom of expression. 

For more insight into the metamorphosis of the male beauty category, and others, our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US book is available right now. Contact us today for your copy. 

TIKTOK INSPIRATIONAL BEAUTY TRENDS - February 2023

TikTok analysis allows us to take the pulse of the Beauty consumer, and track their current priorities and motivations, in real time. From the latest Beauty hacks to the most meme’d moment from NYFW, February’s trending TikTok content is united by the themes of reinterpretation, rebellion and resourcefulness.

Sources: @elpltt - @jennseren - @molchanovamua

Read on to discover 4 leading Beauty inspirations from February 2023:

1. ANTI-VALENTINE: THE CREATIVE COUNTER-RESPONSE

Rising Hashtags:

#antivalentinesdaymakeup: 3.6M views

As Valentines Day approached, an international holiday typified by a proliferation of pink and an outpouring of love, a counter-movement emerged on TikTok - one which offered a response to the idealized version of romance. Instead, TikTokers embraced their broken hearts and expressed their lovesickness through darkly artistic looks. 

At a time when consumers are chasing alternative aesthetics and challenging conventional beauty tropes, the post-breakup look and revenge face emerge as new artistic expressions. Rising alongside adjacent trends such as #CryingMakeup, #ColdGirl, #GlamGoth and #WednesdyAddamsMakeup, the Anti-Valentines look is typified by glistening faux tears, tracked mascara, the dominance of the color black, fake piercings and trashy, barbed heart artistry. 

Influencers to follow:

@jennseren, @emilytembymakeu, @elpltt, @trinsmakeups

@elpltt_ Lovesick #valentinesmakeup #valentinesday got the idea to do a sickly look from @sophia ♬ Lovefool - Best Love Songs

2. BIG RED BOOTS: NYFW’S MOST VIRAL MOMENT

Rising Hashtags:

#bigredboots: 49M views / #mschf: 1.5B views

It was almost impossible to hide from those MSCHF red boots in February, as every social platform was flooded with influencer posts or memes parodying their cartoonish proportions. Beauty TikTokers and Instagrammers were quick to jump on the hype and appropriate their viralability with irreverent reinterpretations of their bold, red, form. With the help of moldings in the shape of the shoe, nail artists were able to reproduce the model perfectly and create micro-versions for the tips of their nails.

The boots arguably stole most of the NYFW headlines, driving plenty of traffic toward their creators, the Brooklyn-based fashion and art collective, MSCHF. Inspired by Astro Boy, the oversize boots were a piece of creative risk-taking - merging gaming nostalgia with the aesthetics of a metaversal x real-world crossover. But a word of warning for brands - in this era of heightened eco-responsibility, consider the environmental impact of short-term gimmicks. Is there life beyond the hype? 

Influencers to follow:

@aminaoui,@nailsbymei,@bellabacademy,@threadbeauty

@filtersbyjulia new manicure filter on snap inspired by the big red boots #bigredboots #bigredbootsmschf #mschf #filter #newfilter @filtersbyjulia ♬ Collide (more sped up) - Justine Skye

3. PRODUCT DEVIATION: THERE’S ALWAYS A PLAN B

Ever creative, particularly in this tough economic time, TikTokkers are exploring new applications for tried-and-tested products, highlighting new uses that deviate from their primary function or illustrating useful hacks for Beauty emergencies.

• LIP CRAYON HACK

Imagine a scenario where you’re babysitting before a big night out but you’ve forgotten your makeup kit…Don’t panic! The latest hack to go viral on TikTok shows how a children’s coloring pencil can be used as a lip liner. Just moisten with a touch of water and apply to the lips.

Influencer to follow:

@mimiermakeup

• CREAM BLUSH HACK

A clever hack that combines convenience and personalization, the idea here is to mix your lipstick (any from your kit) with a liquid foundation to create a unique cream blush color and texture of your liking. 

Influencer to follow:

@beautybaycom

• PINK UNDEREYES

Rising Hashtags:

#pinkundereyetrend: 59.1M views

Undereye concealer is given added depth and impact by applying pink cream/liquid blush directly on top (before the concealer has been blended) to create a more luminous and fresh finish.

Influencers to follow:

@beautyybylucyy, @jennseren

@jennseren Changed my life 🤯 @Dose of Lashes #pinkundereyetrend #powderpuff #undereyepuff #undereyepowder #makeuphacks ♬ just sht up and take my money - arianagrande

4. DIY LIPGLOSS: COST-EFFECTIVE CUSTOMIZATION

Resourcefulness continued to inspire content with the homemade lipgloss trend. Ingenious and inexpensive, TikTokers are creating their own unique shade of lip gloss by mixing transparent gloss with an eyeshadow color of their choice. 

Influencer to follow:

@molchanovamua

@molchanovamua Loveee #viral #fyp #us #music ♬ BALENCI FLEECE - LUC & Mumble

THE CIC TAKE

• Consumers continue to value creativity, but TikTokers are expanding beyond playful artistry to illustrate new cost-saving and personalization techniques that address current consumer pain points.

• Experimental riffs on emotional makeup looks should encourage brands to take risks, and use more subversive messaging and visuals that tap into the growing appetite for the unconventional.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our latest Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok February 2023)

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS23: BEAUTY FOCUS

At the recent Paris Couture shows, trending hair and makeup looks were given sophisticated status. From grown-up Gothic Allure to a sumptuous twist on Clean Girl, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of the 5 key hair and beauty trends to watch:

#1 - Vanilla Girl 

Clean Girl continues to evolve into new territories of minimalism, and Couture week introduced the latest interpretation of the trend: Meet, Vanilla Girl. 

Source: Schiaparelli - Vogue Runway

The warmer, cosier sister of Clean Girl has been gaining momentum on TikTok, where #vanillagirlmakeup currently has 20.7M views.  As the name suggests, this is a more comfortable aesthetic, characterized by soft, buttery textures and neutral colours such as off-white, beige and cream. In Paris, Schiaparelli MUA Pat McGrath referenced the trend through candlelit skin, achieved using a soft matte base accented with a subtle rosy blush applied to the apples and up to the cheekbones. For the lips, a dewy pink balm completed the look. 

#2 - The Return of The Side Fringe 

In recent trend reports, CIC has tracked the growing influence of Kidult Beauty, as creators and consumers play with child-like aesthetics and references to create grown-up looks. This sense of childhood experimentalism seeped into Couture this season, where ultra-short and side-swept fringes evoked memories of self-inflicted home haircuts and early Noughties teen idols. 

Source visual: Armani Privé - Vogue Runway

At Viktor & Rolf, super-short fringes echoed the collection’s overarching Surrealist theme. Hair stylist Olivier Schawalder played with proportion with styles that featured short and blunt fringes paired with sleek, slightly bouffant ponytails.  On the front row at Schiaparelli, Kylie Jenner wore her bangs swept to the side and curved over one eye. 

#3 - Gothic Allure

The influence of Wednesday Addams is far-reaching and for Couture, MUAs put a sophisticated spin on the glam-goth aesthetic, demonstrating its potential to appeal beyond Wednesday’s core Gen Z audience. 

Source visual: Valentino - Julien Da Costa for Le Figaro

At Ronald van der Kemp, Marcello Costa referenced the classic goth aesthetic of matte white base and black lips but contemporized the look with bleached brows and a dramatic, smokey eye with shimmery red undertones. For Valentino, Pat McGrath looked to 80s Club Kids for inspiration with makeup looks that accentuated each model's individuality while playing to sub-culture themes. Many sported matte berry or black vinyl lips, heavily-lined eyes and a dramatic veil blush. 

#4 - ‘20s Redux

Source visual: Dior - ELLE

Serving up references to the iconic women of the 1920s, Dior’s show was rich with sophisticated hair and beauty notes. Guido Palau created hairstyles from the Joséphine Baker school of kiss curl artistry, creating immaculately sculpted looks with not a hair out of place. Short styles were centre-parted and sleeked down, or hair was braided and pulled back into low buns. Even baby hairs were neatly incorporated into each style.  

#5 - All that Brows 

Source visual: Mugler - Vogue Runway

Special attention was given to brows and lashes, as MUAs distorted conventions to play with colour and textural expectations. Echoing the social media trend for “Anti-It Girl” aesthetics, disappearing or bleached brows continue to trend strongly and were spotted at  Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexandre Vauthier and Valentino, among many others.  The blanked-out brow was often offset by juxtaposing, lash and eye looks. At Mugler, neon liner hovered just above the brow and was colour-matched with extra-long lashes. 

The CIC Take

TikTok’s influence is even being felt at Couture level. Key trends that have been buzzing on the platform are being reinterpreted with a luxury focus - from baby hair artistry to soft goth sophistication. Our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto explores how TikTok is helping to change global beauty expectations. Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

TIKTOK INSPIRATIONaL trends BEAUTY TRENDS - # january23

@hayley_bui /@garabceluru/ @zoekimkenealy - TikTok

No social platform has impacted Beauty quite in the way that TikTok has. The platform’s unique algorithm allows for any creator (be it a big brand or unique user) to go viral, propelling the site’s reputation as a space for discovery.

TikTok-onomics

Over half of all users (52%) now say they discover new products on the platform, a behavior that has shifted TikTok from a social network to an experiential media. Its influence on beauty trends, the success of new brands, the revival of long-forgotten products and the reinvention of heritage brands is propelling the industry to new levels of innovation and creativity. Based on our ranking on the total of followers, Huda Beauty is the #1 ranked Beauty brand on TikTok, with 8.4 million followers and 173.2 million likes. Next, is Kylie Cosmetics with 3.4 million followers and 24.4 million likes, followed by Florence By Mills at #3 (2.8 million followers and 47.2 million likes), Kaja at #4 (1.7 million followers and 25.4 million likes) and Fenty at #5 (1.5 million followers and 24.5 million likes).

Below, discover 3 key TikTok trends in January to inspire new beauty directions over the year ahead:  

1- I’M COLD

The counter-response to last summer’s sunburn blush trend is this season’s “I’m Cold” makeup. With over 234.8M views on TikTok, #Imcoldmakeup is defined by flushed rosy cheeks, a red-tipped nose, frosted lids and clear or frost-bitten lips. 

Much like the Clean Girl trend, the wintery makeup look is about enhancing the natural flush through elevated artistry. Blush is the key product here, which is applied on the apples of the cheeks upwards, across the bridge of the nose and to the tip. Some TikTokkers are even recreating chapped lips by applying cream blush around the lip line. 

Influencers to follow:

@zoekimkenealy #greenscreen I think this is my favorite TikTok I’ve ever made even tho I felt so basic going outside and taking selfies with my Starbucks it was also the highlight of my day hehe it’s Makeup for serotonin feels and hallmark movie time! It’s the im cold it’s winter and the holidays and fall makeup look tutorial. #wintermakeup #fallmakeuplook #coldmakeup #maccosmetics #benefitcosmetics #makeupforever #wintermakeuplook ♬ august - Taylor Swift

@trulue THIS IS THE CUTEST MAKEUP LOOK!!❄️ @zoekimkenealy you’re beautiful and this idea is amazing💖 #blush #viralmakeup #makeuptutorial #grwm ♬ Ice Dance (From "Edward Scissorhands") - Ashton Gleckman

Rising Hashtags:

#Imcoldmakeup: 234.8M / #wintermakeup: 192.6M views

2 - CRYING MAKEUP

Another trend propelled by TikTok MUA Zoe Kim Kenealy, “Crying Makeup” recreates the effects of a post-crying face - typified by a tear-streaked complexion, red eyes, smudged liner, and flushed cheeks. 

In Kenealy’s viral tutorial, she uses blush to create a soft redness around the eyes, nose, and cheeks while applying a liquid, glitter eyeshadow to make the eyes appear teary. Glitter gel is also applied to the face to replicate tears, while lips are smudged with lipstick and gloss. Key products include Fenty Beauty’s Double Cheek’d Up - a limited-edition duo of cream blush shades -  AMTS Liquid Glitter Shadow in 02, NYX Professional Makeup Slide On Lip Pencil, and EM Cosmetics Soft Spoken Lips in Manifest and Intuition. About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss is applied for a wet-look shine on the eyelids, cheeks, and cupid’s bow.

Influencers to follow:

@zoekimkenealy #greenscreen crying makeup look tutorial 😅 Can I go as a crying person for Halloween or is that not a thing #cryingmakeup #tearmakeup #cryingeyes #makeupforhalloween ♬ Show Me How (Album V) - Men I Trust

@karikarikari im sure a look like this is useful for something?? #fyp #makeup #grwm ♬ Woozy - Glass Animals

Rising Hashtags:

#cryingmakeuptutorial: 25.3B views / #makeupgirlcrying: 91.1M views / #crygirlmakeup: 101.3M views

3 - DISAPPEARING BROWS

 From bleached brows to no brows, TikTokkers move the statement brow into another dimension by removing them altogether. The latest evolution in the brow trend cycle, sees brows disappear as bold TikTokkers move on from laminated, fluffy, and super-skinny to play with a more experimental new look. 

Doja Cat spurred the trend when she recently shaved off her brows and replaced them with drawn-on abstract shapes and colours, paving the way for TikTok creators to experiment with their own artistic no-brow looks. Cue TikTokkers sharing ‘shaving’ videos as they remove their own brows and play with a more extreme beauty narrative, some other present tutorials using correctors and concealers to create the #disappearingbrows look.

Influencers to follow:

@torycarrasco #makeuptutorial #noeyebrows ♬ Twist - Korn

@madykennedy Part 2- Coloir correcting the brows to make them ✨disappear✨ #browblocking #makeuptips #creativemakeup ♬ original sound - madykennedy

Rising Hashtags:

#eyebrowsdisappear: 9.7B views / #eyebrowdisappearfilter: 71.1M views / #missingeyebrowfilter: 5.8M views / #missingeyebrow: 5.7M views/

#noeyebrowstrend: 241.1M views

THE CIC Take

Beauty trends are increasingly being shaped and propelled by peer-to-peer communities, with TikTok the favored platform for interaction, advice, inspiration and education.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our new Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok January 2023)