IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris),  our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023. 

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair. 

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors 

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.



2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY 

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.


3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

AI-assisted development

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.



The CIC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities. 

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

 

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

THE CIC TAKE

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)

TREND WATCH: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW24/25

Source: Bevza NYFW FW 24/25

New York Fashion Week saw designers embracing a return to classic elements, with nods to traditional craftsmanship, twisted by unconventional accents and innovation. From Protection Mode to Soft Envelop, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of 5 key trends to watch:

#1 Soft Envelop

Source: Jason Wu NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Proenza Schouler NYFW FW 24/25

This season, luxurious warmth and comfort were a key part of the narrative, where a trend for soft, enveloping fabrics and silhouettes emerged, blurring the line between clothing and blankets. Models were draped in voluminous, billowing fabrics exuding an effortless sense of comfort and style on the runway. Garments cocooned the wearer in luxurious warmth and softness, as seen in Jason Wu's blanket coats and enveloping silhouettes, Tibi's minimal approach featuring free-flowing luxurious wool, and Proenza Schouler's safety-pinned scarf-sweaters.

#2 Mob Boss

Source: Puppets and Puppets NYFW FW 24/25

Source: LaQuan Smith NYFW FW 24/25

Why settle for Mob Wife when you can be Mob Boss? Featuring statement coats, faux fur, and dramatic collars, this trend tells the story of a powerful woman exuding confidence and sophistication, redefining power dressing for the modern femme fatale. Linked to the #mobwife trend on social media (amassing 16.9M views on TikTok), the bold narrative was embraced by designers like Prabal Gurung with big coats and intense eye makeup, LaQuan Smith with latex-like silk skirts and oversized faux fur, and Puppets and Puppets with fuzzy shawls hiding sheer dresses.

#3 Maximalist Chaos

Source: Dauphinette NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Libertine NYFW FW 24/25

Celebrating abundance and inviting fearless experimentation, Maximalist Chaos is a playful call to break free from conventions and express creativity with abandon, standing at the antipode of quiet luxury. There was an overload of print and pattern at Libertine and Dauphinette while at Wiederhoeft, models donned furry and shiny headpieces, extravagant sunglasses and overstacked belts. The rise of eclectic and exaggerated styling redefined the runway with a daring spirit of excess.

#4 Protection Mode

Source: Tory Burch NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Thom Browne NYFW FW 24/25

With the rise of a "preventive" mindset led by more educated consumers, we are seeing the emergence of a new utilitarian beauty that prioritizes functional protection in our everyday lives. Designers at the forefront of fashion experimentation have embraced a laboratory-inspired aesthetic, working with materials reminiscent of vinyl or plastic to convey hygiene, safety and security. This trend for utilitarianism pushes the boundaries of fashion and gives rise to confronting aesthetics - from Helmut Lang's secure wrapping techniques to Tory Burch's vinyl-like trench coats and Thom Browne's protective overshoe-style footwear.

#5 Grey Pride

Source: Batsheva NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Christian Cowan NYFW FW 24/25

Recent trend reports from Cosmetics IC have highlighted the rising impact of the "Aging Well" movement, a narrative that has cascaded onto the catwalks, where older models exude timeless elegance and sophistication. This season represented a significant shift, defying ageist standards and embracing beauty diversity, with models from brands like Batsheva, Bevza, and Christian Cowan showcasing that style is ageless, encouraging a celebration of beauty across all stages of life. 

 

The CIC Take

This season, designers embraced boldness and inclusivity, celebrating individuality while merging fashion and function. From empowering styles to embracing age diversity, each trend reflects a dynamic shift toward self-expression and innovation. This also opens up new territories in the beauty landscape, paving the way for innovation and new narratives.

 

Learn more

Our latest reports: Inspiration Book: NYFW Fall/Winter 24/25, and What’s Up #20 - Inspiration from the U.S., explore the latest trends in beauty, contextualized with emerging consumer behaviors, cutting-edge innovations and cultural influences.

Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

Beauty Soundbites: Higher Futures, MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024

For MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024, Cosmetics IC hosted a series of four Beauty Talks to highlight the agency’s predictions for the year ahead. We will be highlighting the key talking points from some of our sessions and sharing a snapshot of the interviews that took place with a panel of top industry players, here on the Cosmetic Seeds blog. A full summary of all four talks, including in-depth interviews, key products and takeaways, is available now.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - Leila Rochet / Capsum - Sébastien Bardon / Haus Labs by Lady Gaga - Gloria Ryu

The Beauty Talk: Higher Futures - The transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty

Exploring the axis of artistry and science, performance and sensation, Higher Futures represents the agency’s analysis of the transformative power of a science-centric approach to beauty. The arrival of new technologies presents brands with bold opportunities to innovate and meet the rising expectations for exceptional solutions and elevated experiences. 

“There is a growing demand for very emotionally compelling and liberating physical experiences. Consumers are looking for groundbreaking experiences, groundbreaking innovation, extraordinary performance levels. It is beyond what they were looking for in the past, especially in the performance arena, but also in sensoriality.”  Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC

This desire for elevated experiences has been building since COVID, and in today’s polycrisis era, it has become an even more essential facet of the beauty routine. Consumers’ need for enhanced performance inspired a refocus of Lady Gaga’s Haus Labs in 2020, as the brand switched to a science-led innovation strategy. Critically, Haus Lab’s shift also introduced a new level of sensoriality into the beauty experience. This is a key facet of the work of Capsum - a contract manufacturer that specializes in microfluidic encapsulation technology, which makes it possible to assemble ingredients in a radically new way, controlling stability and heightening the sensory effect.  Joining Leila to discuss how a science-centric approach is transforming the world of beauty was Sebastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum and Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs By Lady Gaga.

Read on for a snapshot of Leila’s wide-ranging interview with Sebastien and Gloria from February 2024:

Leïla Rochet: Gloria, can you tell us about the decision to relaunch Haus Labs with a scientific approach?

Gloria Ryu: Our patented Fermented Arnica was born while experimenting with one of our R&D partners. Sarah Tanno, who is our Global Artistry Director, Lady Gaga, and the rest of the team were in the lab brainstorming on what we could do from a material perspective, and how to build products from the inside out - very much starting from the raw material phase. With our foundation, it's been marketed that we spent 10,000 hours in the lab, developing that product, an insane number of hours! It's very interesting because our pillars are artistry, science, and inclusivity and for us, it's about the intersection of those three. 

Leïla: Sébastien, you introduced microfluidic technology to the Beauty industry. Can you explain what that is?

Sébastien Bardon: When you develop custom products you use between 10 and 50 ingredients, and as you do in your kitchen, you mix them all together, right? But what we do is that we separate them into different phases, which can be up to five different phases, and then we produce the product one drop at a time. So we're making millimeter-sized drops of oil, containing the perfume and actives, that are going to be dropped into the hydrophilic formula. 

The reason we decided to apply microfluidics to Beauty is because you can bring multiple benefits. I think the simplest benefit is the visual aspect - we create products that are beautiful, and that helps brands differentiate one from the other. 

Leïla: Gloria, how do you see the skinification shift in relation to Haus Labs?

Gloria: I love the fact that our consumers and our community are so much more savvy, and really push brands to elevate from a higher standard of quality, execution, and performance. So it challenges us to push our partners to figure out that delicate balance between artistry, and performance.

Leïla: And what does skinification mean to Capsum?

Sébastien: It is obviously about adding active ingredients to your makeup, but it's also about bringing a new skin feel to makeup. We have achieved this with some brands, making makeup products that have a really nice skin feel, and freshness. They also speak for themselves because they have encapsulated pigments, and as a consumer, you understand very clearly this product is going to give you a makeup effect.

Leïla: Gloria, as head of PD, can you tell us a little more about the challenges in creating makeup that is both artistic and skincare-driven?

Gloria: Lady Gaga is an incredible futurist and visionary and her team has such a high standard of excellence in terms of performance. It’s got to withstand her dancing and performing two hours on stage, and when she takes it off her skin shouldn’t be red or irritated. It's a very fluid approach, it's the art and science synergy.

The CIC Take

Haus Labs and Capsum demonstrate how science and technology can be applied beyond performance to elevate the artistry and sensoriality of a product, placing innovation at the heart of product storytelling. A science-centric approach is now an essential strategy for brands to meet consumers’ ever-evolving expectations for sustainability, performance and sensoriality.

Contact the team today for a full summary and transcript of our session with Gloria and Sebastian, and all of the Beauty Talks presented exclusively at MakeUp in Los Angeles, available as one comprehensive report. Our 2024 trend white book, The Age of Thrill, is also available now.

MEET THE FOUNDER - Talking Clean Beauty with Annie Jackson, CEO and Co-Founder of Credo

Annie Jackson is one of the most influential female leaders in the US, she has been a key player in the beauty space since her early career with Estee Lauder before becoming part of the team that launched Sephora USA. Just over a decade ago, Annie co-founded the clean beauty retailer Credo, which is now firmly established as one of America’s top sustainable beauty champions. 

“Annie Jackson is one of the leading voices in the clean beauty and sustainability movement. As co-founder and now CEO of Credo, Annie is uniquely positioned to offer insight into the evolution of the clean beauty space and share her thoughts on how the industry must adapt to ensure a better tomorrow. With value being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, brands are being driven to consider the future implications of products. Credo is a pro-active steward of progress, working alongside brands to evolve sustainability standards that go far beyond current consumer expectations.” Leila Rochet – Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

At the recent MakeUp in Los Angeles event, Annie joined our Chief Innovation Officer, Leila Rochet, to discuss one of the agency’s key trends for 2024 - Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future.

Read on for an exclusive extract of Leila and Annie’s Beauty Talk, where Annie shares her vision for the future of clean beauty and reveals the shifting priorities of Credo consumers.


Leila Rochet: How did your journey into Beauty unfold, leading to your role today as CEO of Credo? 

Annie Jackson: We started on the concept for Credo back in 2013 and opened our first store in 2015. We just opened our 16th location. We are a physical retail concept. While digital is very important to any business today, meeting the customers where they are in neighborhoods, where people are living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, and investing in their health, is where you will find a Credo. We want people to be able to explore and find new brands, try the products, and work with our estheticians and makeup artists. And that's our continued focus. 

Back in 2013 we really wanted to see if you could make a brand that was as efficacious as a conventional beauty brand in formula and packaging but with primarily plant ingredients in more sustainable options. We took the cue from the organic food movement and realized that people were investing in healthier options and educating themselves on what products they wanted to buy.  So we were curious, could we find enough brands to fill this store? We opened our first store in San Francisco, going head to head-with conventional beauty brands. We started with about 60 brands and we have 105 today. About a quarter of those brands we started with are still with us a decade later. 

Leila: There must have been a lot of challenges when you started. How do they compare to the challenges you face today? 

Annie:  Well, I think I can safely say for any entrepreneur or any founder out there, it's never a straight line. We had the COVID crisis in the middle of trying to grow a physical retail business, which is extremely capital-intensive.  Also, when we started we had this ecosystem of brands which were really celebrating finding a retail partner and wanted to grow alongside us.  The customer base has now grown so much that these brands are scaling and growing into bigger retailers, which is amazing. The fact that retailers with a larger footprint than Credo are committed to putting safer products on their shelves is an amazing thing. But from a business standpoint, it becomes quite challenging because that hurts our market share. It's a tricky one.

Yet, it hasn't made us any less passionate about what we do. We are striving to make a positive impact in the beauty industry and so we're often shoulder to shoulder with our competitors - Sephora, Ulta, Detox Market, and others. But you know, we're all in this together. And I think the more we can band together to make better choices for human health, it's a good thing.

Leila: How do you make sure that the products that you sell in your retailers are the safest ones? 

Annie: Before, we were manually checking products against our standard, but today we use a technology platform called Novi. We've also invested in a rock star team of impact specialists who come from environmental, toxicology, and science backgrounds, to help guide us. Today,  what we're doing as an organization is questioning if there could be a better way. For us, the secret sauce is finding brands that are not just meeting our standards, they're exceeding them, or they have a path to exceed. What makes me so proud of the brand community that we have is that these people have rolled up their sleeves and done the hard work - they're paying more money, and they're taking more time to bring products to market. And they're challenging the contract manufacturing community to look at other ingredients and explore other options. 

Leila: How do you help your consumers navigate all these changes and what are you seeing as their priority? 

Annie: From the outset, our customers have always been concerned about packaging. In the early days, while we vetted brands against a restricted substance list,  consumers were always saying, “I hate all this plastic!”. Customers are absolutely invested in being part of the solution. We co-founded the packaging collection program Pact Collective along with other stakeholders, but we also have the conversation on the selling floor about what is recyclable. The next thing that's top of mind for us is looking at ingredients that have no data and examining the assumption that they're safe or good for you. So we're starting to dig into that with Chem Forward, who are a nonprofit partner. It may mean that some products at Credo go away, but, you know, that's why we're here and that's the work that we're doing today.

Leila: According to Nielsen IQ - 61% of US consumers associate sustainability with benefiting the planet, while just 26% associate it with societal contributions. Credo has been active on matters like ethical sourcing of Mica, do you see ethical transparency as the next step for the industry?

Annie: Yes, I do. I think whether people are buying beauty products, or beer, or cars, they are much more invested in finding out information before they choose a product. And so it could be a source of ingredients, it could be packaging, it could be what a founder says on social media… it could be all of those pieces together. Gen Z has the highest bar of any customer out there, and they expect you to have all these things in place. They want the product to be all those things, with an entry-level price point, and a cool look and feel. They want it all. And that generation is growing up, they've got more spending power, and those are the brands that they're looking for. So I think it's a super exciting time. 

Leila: Education is one of Credo's core pillars - what tools and techniques do you use to educate consumers?

Annie: We have an education team and we invest most of our time in terms of associated selling preparation on training. Our dream is to have our brands be as well known on the selling floor as the brand founders themselves know them. We want our sales associates to know our brands intimately, so we spend most of our time on education, in terms of brand product knowledge, but also on what our standards are. I would say probably the most engaged customer that we have at Credo is someone who's expecting a child. These people are typically really invested in the choices they're making. 

Leila: In a previous interview in Vogue Business, you talked about moving “beyond clean beauty”, can you explain what you mean by this? 

Annie: It's really about moving beyond the restricted substance list, and understanding that the customer has embraced a much more holistic view of what clean or green beauty means to them. It involves packaging, people, ethics… just real transparency. I can say from experience that Beauty is a pretty opaque industry, and it’s not inherently forthcoming about what's in products, and who the people are that these brands are working with. By no means does Credo have everything figured out perfectly, but we're digging into things that should be very transparent to the customer. That's what people expect today. 

When I was talking about going beyond clean, it is because people tend to hear “clean beauty”, and they just think of ingredients, and that's it. But we're embarking on meeting our first sustainable packaging milestone this year, where our brand partners needed to reach 50% or greater PCR content. We put that out in the universe in 2020 and that's where we've been spending most of our time. From an ingredients standpoint, it's much more cut and dry, like, do you have these ingredients, or don't you? But on the packaging front, it's really been us linking arms with our brand partners and saying, we got to do better. We have to at the end of the day. The reality is we're in an industry where we sell products, and so if you're going to do that then let's invest in things that are just better for people and the planet.


KEY TAKEAWAYS:

  • Consumers want increasingly healthier options that align with their healthy lifestyles and are educating themselves before making purchase decisions.

  • Brands must be prepared to pay more and work harder to achieve outstanding results and push the culture of clean beauty forward. Dig deeper, and engage with technology platforms to help validate ingredients and materials.

  • Packaging remains a key sticking point for the beauty industry and is a top concern for sustainably-motivated consumers. 

  • Young consumers have a much wider definition of clean beauty that encompasses ingredient safety, packaging, ethical sourcing, and social purpose.

  • Retailers should center education in staff training and services to meet the consumer’s level of knowledge and enhance the product discovery experience on the shop floor.


To discover more about our key territory for 2024, Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future, contact the Cosmetics IC team today for your copy of our 2024 White Book: The Age of Thrill. Many thanks to the wonderful Annie Jackson, and all of our brilliant guest speakers at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024!

White Book 2024: The Age of Thrill

Death to Stock - Photo by Fanette Guilloud

As technology and science become integral facets of our always-evolving lifestyles, a growing demand emerges for elevated and indulgent experiences.  Our latest White Book explores The Age of Thrill, an era energized by radical innovations that will deliver extraordinary sensations and take performance levels to extreme new heights.

In an era marked by uncertainties and polycrisis, there is a growing demand for emotionally compelling and exhilarating physical experiences, especially with our ever-evolving lifestyles. Consumers are now invigorated by groundbreaking innovations that offer extra-ordinary sensations while elevating performance to unprecedented levels.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

The agency has identified the following five trends for 2024 and beyond, which represent the need for brands to meet heightened expectations around performance, creativity, and sustainability. 

1/ HIGHER FUTURE: The transformative impact of science-centric approaches 

In the future, all experiences will be hybrid, and product innovation will be committed to maximizing performance. New technologies and scientific discoveries, forefronted by Artificial Intelligence, will transform consumers' expectations, taking results-focused beauty to even higher levels. 

  • AI will revolutionize retail experiences and services. In the summer of 2023, Ulta Beauty partnered with Haut AI to bring personalized skincare diagnostics to the in-store experience. Haut AI has also developed SkinGPT - a skincare platform that uses generative AI to visually simulate the effects of products over time, based on a combination of a personalized quiz, uploaded images, and clinical data.

  • AI-powered bots will become a familiar feature outside of the professional salon space, meeting the demand for faster and budget-friendly options. Offering quick and affordable nail polish applications ($10) the mani-bot Clockwork is growing its presence across the US with a strategic focus on residential complexes and airports.

  • In beauty, a mindset rooted in science and focused on solutions is making waves and is being embraced by consumers driven by tangible outcomes. Amorepacific’s latest innovation, the Lipcure Beam (CES Innovation Award 2024 – Korea) employs precision sensor and diagnostic technology to deliver next-level care.  The device’s cap diagnoses the moisture levels and condition of the lips, while a brush-like applicator emits customized visible light to aid in lip care.

2/ TRANSIENT UTOPIA: Revisiting the codes of lifestyle

Beauty adapts to always-on-the-move lifestyles, as the thirst for leisure and the rising nomad economy drive innovation. The travel surge calls for refreshed routines and simpler, smarter formats that reimagine the practical nature of makeup. 

  • At PFW SS24, (September 2023 - France) Miu Miu presented a collection inspired by the future omni-traveler. Workwear was mixed with beachwear, sportswear was paired with eveningwear, as the brand played with the concept of “prototypical fashion”, reflecting the growing eclecticism of people’s daily lives. 

  • Climatic changes will continue to impact choices and behaviors, calling for new cooling sensations and soothing textures. Like those offered by the After Sun Gel from cult suncare brand Vacation (April 2023), which is primed to cool and soothe the skin after sun exposure.

  • Demand for intelligent SPF hybrids will rise as daily defense becomes central to the preparation for a better future. Combining a cooling sensation with SPF 50+, the TIRTIR Off The Sun Air Mousse SPF 50+ (April 2023 - Korea) features 2% Zero-Cooling Complex which is proven to reduce skin temperature by -4.8 degrees Celsius.

3/EXTRA-VAGANCE: Bringing the extraordinary into the everyday

Consumers are turning to lavish indulgences and grandiose gestures as a riposte to the daily grind of the recession. A new cohort of thrill-seekers are maxing out on experiences and eschewing convention to party through the permacrisis, exemplified by the monumental economic success of Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour.

  • Every aspect of Beyonce’s wardrobe and makeup for her Renaissance tour was analyzed and dissected on social media (#renaissancetour has garnered 3.9B views on TikTok), triggering a flurry of copycat looks and giving wings to the concept of #concertmakeup.

  • Celebratory looks are rising, and consumers are looking to their favorite idols for inspiration on how to introduce lavish gestures into their every day. In Korea, crystal nose-bridge embellishments have become a new way to wear face gems, thanks to fans spotting them on K-pop idols Jennie and Rosé from Blackpink during their Coachella performance. The look went viral on social media, with fans rushing to recreate the distinctive look.

  • Unseen Beauty (UK) is one brand that is driven to deliver extraordinary experiences, bringing unexpectedly luxe finishes to makeup. The  SPECTRA Eye Colour contains glass microspheres, half-coated with aluminum to transform the product into a bright, reflective silver under a phone camera's flash. Making it the ideal accompaniment to a night out.

4/ SYMBIOTIC EDEN: Adapting for a better future

Value is being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, driving brands to consider the future implications of products. As the climate crisis continues to unfold, innovation will come to the foreground of beauty as consumers look for solutions to increasingly prominent issues caused by environmental deterioration. 

  • Waste solutions will continue to rise, and will be encircled into new retail concepts. Greez (February 2023 - France) is a resale platform for unsold cosmetics, while This is Beauty (June 2023 – US) is an online retailer that works with global brands to keep products with damaged packaging away from landfill.

  • The acceleration of vertical farming (employed to great success by Ulé and Caudalie), opens up new territories of tech-driven sustainable sourcing. German brand Gezeiten worked with marine biologists and biotechnologists to study over a hundred compounds to develop Earth Marine CellTech Complex® - a combination of patented marine extracts and a mineral-rich submarine water concentrate. The complex is at the core of its new Face Cream (April 2023), which is packed with active biotech ingredients.

  • Plastic-free solutions will continue to rise with packaging companies like Verity (US) proposing metal as a solution for beauty, or Notpla (UK) which is exploring the potential of regenerative packaging(UK).

5/ EXPANDED CARE: Emotional-bonding beauty

As stress levels continue to rise in this period of permacrisis (61% of Americans say their stress is at an all-time high, while 89% of Chinese adults are actively seeking ways to reduce stress), emotional-bonding becomes essential in daily behavior.

  • In beauty, this manifests in the rise of comfort-boosting textures and new psychodermatalogical narratives, which are propelled by TikTok. The issue of skin sensitivity and barrier protection presents a new opportunity for brands to innovate from the perspective of emotional care.  The success of Rare Beauty (expected to exceed $300 million in sales in 2023 according to Fast Company), opens the path to more emotion-infused beauty products. 

  • Circadian beauty will continue to flourish as consumers look to align their well-being goals with their skincare ambitions. Complimentary skincare and supplement brand You’re Looking Well (UK)  has developed the Night Pill & Night Cream (August 2023) to help users optimize their sleep. Infused with ingredients to prepare the body for rest and help the skin recover, the two products work in tandem with the skin’s circadian rhythm to deliver a well-rested glow and a clear mind.

  • Clariant has been exploring the potential of neurocosmetics primed to tackle the effects of lack of sunlight exposure on the mood, and the skin.  In a presentation titled, "An Innovative Light-biomimetic Solution Stimulating Feel-good Hormones and Cognitive Relaxation to Tackle Lack of Sunlight Exposure and Dull Skin" Mathilde Frechet of Clariant outlined how the butterfly plants rich tormentic acid content enhances cognitive relaxation and skin complexion by amplifying the vitamin D pathway and hormonal production. 

The CIC Take

This culture of thrill-seeking will impact our vision of beauty, awakening a more pluriversal mindset and establishing next-level expectations, propelling beauty in a Protopian trajectory.

For the full version of our White Book, or for more information on any of our innovation and forecasting services, drop us a line today.

Ingredient Inspiration: Cosmet’Agora 2024

Arthur Mazi via Unsplash

The 16th edition of Cosmet’agora was held in Paris on 16 - 17 January 2024, showcasing the latest ingredient and formulation innovations. Fresh from the event, our Scientific & Product Expert, Enora Le Roux, deciphers the emerging ingredient trends that will impact tomorrow’s beauty. Below, discover 3 fields of innovation to inspire your future product creation.

“This year saw the influx of technology and science as the answer to tomorrow’s primary concerns around issues of sustainability, innocuity, and wellness.”  Scientific & Product Expert at Cosmetics IC, Enora Le Roux. 


1. Biotech - When nature meets new extraction technologies

Google search data reveals there is still high demand for biotech ingredients (+7.5% YoY, with a forecast increase of +24.3% over the next 12 months, according to Spate), as consumers lean into the possibilities of tech-enhanced nature to support their high-performance expectations. 

Provital – CircanblueTM (July 2023)

As the conversation around cyclical biorhythms gains traction in the wellness space (#circadianrhythm – 116.6M views on TikTok, January 2024) Provital demonstrates how overexposure to digital technology disrupts the peripheral circadian clocks in the skin, which play a key role in regulating its physiological metabolism. 

In response, Provital developed Circanblue™,  a vegan postbiotic active obtained via a plant-based fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. It re-synchronizes the skin’s natural circadian cycle after this has been altered by excessive Blue Light exposure - a concern growing amongst consumers on social media (#bluelight – 471.8M views on TikTok, January 2024) as they align their wellness and skincare goals.

Key Assets:

Vegan postbiotic / Obtained through biotechnology from cabbage (fermentation) / Regulates the skin’s circadian clock 🡪 “circabiology – science of resynchronization” / Regulates the impact of Blue Light on the circadian cycle

Lipotrue – Calisensix (January 2024)

Addressing rising cases of skin sensitivity, Lipotrue has developed Calisensix, a unique solution that resolves neurogenic inflammation while at the same time enhancing pleasant sensations in the skin.

Calisensix™ targets sensitive skin from both a holistic (sensorial) and biological approach, using plant stem cell technology obtained from the bark of white willow and tomato plants. There is growing interest in the potential regenerative benefits of stem cells for skincare - Spate reports a +27% increase in Google searches YoY( 2022 vs 20223), while TikTok views of #stemcells have clocked over 231.7M (January 2024).

Key Assets:

Resolves neurogenic inflammation / Targets nociception in keratinocytes / Boosts PIEZO1 to enhance pleasant sensations in sensitive skin

Biolie – Garnet Red (January 2024)

Meeting the continued demand for ultra-healthy cosmetics ingredients, Biolie has developed a solvent and water-free enzymatic extraction process - a zero-waste, 100% green technology. This bio-based enzymatic extraction method enables the creation of natural actives from plant-based raw materials, such as microalgae, beechnut, chicory seed, and lettuce. The lab’s latest ingredient, launched at the show, is Garnet Red - a natural lipophilic red dye for makeup and skincare applications.

Key Assets:

Natural antioxidant / Stable to heat and UV / Sustainable, 100% natural / Vegan alternative to Carmin

 
 

2. Longevity - Answering pro-aging/pre-aging concerns

The science and semantics of longevity are entering the skincare conversation, as the desire to live longer and healthier impacts consumers’ expectations of skincare performance. Biohacking culture, spurred by outrageously ambitious procedures undertaken by Silicon Valley billionaires, is taking over TikTok, with views of #reverseaging videos clocking over 180.7M views (January 2024).

In skincare, “anti-aging” ingredients are now “pro-longevity” ingredients. 

Lubrizol – Uplevity e-Lift Peptide (September 2023)

Tapping into the rising interest in Microcurrent Facials (+27% increase in Google searches in 2023 vs 2022, according to Spate), Lubrizol has captured the uplifting and firming results of microcurrent devices into a sustainable and naturally derived tetrapeptide. The powerful active mimics the benefits of electrical stimulation on the skin, increasing collagen production and improving mitochondrial function for an anti-aging effect. 

Key Assets:

Peptidic active / For lifting and firming effect / Focus on the up of the face (eye contour) / Inspired by the effect of the microcurrent tools: stimulate an electric stimulation of the derma (cell contraction) / Results at 7 and 28 days

Mibelle – RejuveNAD (November 2023) 

The role of NAD+ in cellular processes continues to gather interest, with consumer searches for NAD up +24.2% YoY (2023 vs 2022, Spate), as they investigate ways of boosting regeneration for anti-aging results. 

RejuveNAD™from Mibelle introduces the possibility of boosting NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications (rather than via supplements). The ingredient, derived from indoor-farmed sunflower sprouts,  targets age-related processes by optimizing cellular functions, and revitalizing the skin by naturally boosting levels of NAD+. According to Mibelle, the skin looks eight years younger in 42 days. Google searches for NAD have increased +24.2% YoY 

Key Assets:

NAD booster / For skin longevity / Obtained from sunflower sprouts from indoor farming / Acts on 5 of the 9 pillars of skin aging

3. Adaptive: Formulating for climate-adaptive freshness 

The post-pandemic revenge travel surge is set to continue, with 54% of respondents saying they’ll take even more international trips in 2024 than they did in 2023 (Going – The State of Travel – 2024). A culture of nomadism is fuelling a new category of Flexcare - beauty adapted for the unique specificities of travel, which prioritizes convenience and freshness. In this context, we noted several key innovations that center claims of climate-adaptiveness and refreshing sensations. 

The return of travel and rising global temperatures are driving consumers to search out cooling and refreshing sensations - TikTok views of the hashtags #skincarecooling and #skincooling are at 280.1M and 43.8M, respectively ( January 2024).

Unipex – Frozen Glow - Meeting this rising demand is Unipex’s Frozen Glow, which is formulated for a deeply refreshing effect. Frozen Glow contains peppermint leaf water, which stimulates blood circulation to restore the skin’s radiance and impart cooling and toning benefits. 

Key Assets:

Solid emulsion water/wax / Contains H2Olixir Peppermint from Berkem for purifying, toning, and refreshing / A combination of two inverse emulsifiers: Evicare® PGPR from Evident & GlucateTMDO from Lubrizol / Using a new brand’s technology to add hydrophilic actives

PolymerExpert – AquaStick

Combining the need for a convenient format with refreshing effects, the AquaStick is formulated to deliver the fresh feeling of water on the skin, with the soothing sensation of a cream. There is huge interest in on-the-go suncare formats - TikTok views of the hashtag #skincarestick are at 277.8B (January 2024) - presenting a huge opportunity for innovation.

Key Assets: 

Innovating galenic: solid format with 50% of aqueous phase / 100% natural fragrance with aquatic notes that enhance the sensation of freshness


Roelmi France - Ready Stick Go

Designed specifically to combat the effects of sports on the skin, the water-free stick contains microbiota actives that impart a cooling effect while keeping the skin hydrated during activities.

Key Assets:

Water-free / Fast hydration / Cooling effect / Multitasking functionality 

 
 

Special thanks to all the exhibitors for taking the time to explain their new ingredients.

The CIC Take

In our latest Skincare Inspiration from the US report – Transformative Beauty - we explore the product and ingredient innovations impacting the US market and decipher the implications for future innovations.

Contact us today for your copy, and for details of our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024). Find us at booth L36, where we will host our signature Inspiration Bar and Beauty Talks, highlighting our future predictions for 2024 and beyond.

Trend Inspiration: Maison&Objets 2024

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

With the theme of Tech Eden, the 30th-anniversary edition of Maison&Objet (18-22 January, Paris) invited exhibitors to consider how the symbiosis of technology and nature will inform future design scenarios. 

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Coralie Arme, Forecasting & Insights Consultant, explored the show at Paris’ Parc Expo Villepinte, to uncover the top 3 fields of innovation to inspire future-focused solutions for the beauty industry. 

“This year's theme explored the vital links between technology and nature, showcasing future-facing design that improves overall well-being and prioritizes environmental sustainability.” Coralie Arme, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Consultant in Forecasting and Insights. 

1.Symbio-tech: Augmenting nature

WINT Design Lab perfectly embodied the show’s symbiotic emphasis, as the Berlin-based design and research lab explored the relationship between ecological and technological responsibilities.

The studio overcomes disciplinary silos to tackle today's challenges through various projects including bio-textile innovation. Collaborating with biotech startup Mimotype, WINT has developed a high-performance outdoor textile created from 100% collagen. Through this future-proof innovation, the design lab is tapping into the potential of quick iteration cycles.

In beauty,  there is a growing normalization of human augmentation through technology (AI-supported healthcare, adaptive and personalized systems, circadian rhythm lighting, etc).  Harnessing technology to stimulate natural processes, Solaris Laboratories’ LED Intensive Hair Growth Stimulating Brush is an advanced hair and scalp treatment technology that helps prevent hair loss and reverse thinning hair. 

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Solaris Laboratories NY - Photo by Cosmetics IC

2. Upscaling waste: Imagining new-gen materials

Mâche&Maché is a culinary design studio committed to exploring the hyper-future of food. For the show, at the “Inspire me!” by Peclers corner, the studio showcased “Papier Alimentaire” - an edible (and decorative) packaging material made from waste fruit and vegetables designed for large-scale use in the food industry. According to the studio, for sustainable food to be widely accepted, it must offer a more desirable experience than today's standard fare.

In the wellness corner, Japanese brand Incense Kitchen showcased a new incense created from repurposed matcha. The brand advocates recycling matcha into tea incense (instead of perfume) to prevent the wasteful disposal of fine matcha particles in factory machines and air purifiers, providing an alternative and more sustainable outcome.

Mâche&Maché x Peclers - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Incense Kitchen - Photo by Cosmetics IC

3. Healing homes: Anti-anxiety interiors

When one crisis follows another, the actions needed to respond sometimes seem out of reach. Modern society is gripped by an anxiety epidemic, and designers are charged with providing solutions that holistically ease discomfort. The notions of sensoriality and fluidity are thus at the heart of tomorrow's design challenges. 

Furniture and objects exhibited sinuous, undulating curves to give everyday settings the air of primitive landscapes with spiritual dimensions. Roundness is as de rigueur as ever, transforming living spaces into cocoons of comfort. Sofas, armchairs, and chairs play a common score, that of an enveloping, reassuring hug.

Mathieu Lehanneur's "Outonomy" offers an alternative vision of survivalist habitats. By questioning the kind of life we want to lead, Outonomy proposes a return to an original cave, with the comforts we no longer wish to give up.

In beauty, Austrian skincare brand Be […] my friend uses only the purest organic, plant-based ingredients to provide maximum care for the skin, while at the same time minimizing stress. The two pillars of the brand are to elevate the way the skin is treated, while simultaneously elevating the way the environment is treated. 

“Outonomy” by Mathieu Lehanneur - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Be [..] my friend - Photo by Cosmetics IC

The CIC Take

Tech Eden suggests a Protopian vision of the future - a natural awakening, enriched by technological innovations - from biotextiles and 3D printing to AI-powered design. Nature remains omnipresent through radical interpretations of color, form, and material.

In our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US report - Protopian Beauty - we investigate the latest product innovations in the US and explore how technological acceleration is paving the way for a  more progressive future. For more information on this report, and for details on our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024) - drop us a line today. 





TikTok: 2023 End of Year Inspiration

To wrap up a year of inspiration, the CIC team has analysed the TikTok trends that dominated in the last months of 2023 - from superhero-inspired effects and sugar-glazed wintery hues to intentionally unsettling makeup. 


1. RAINBOW MASK

With its links to the LGBTQIA+ pride flag, Rainbow Mask makeup involves creating a spectrum of colours across the eye area, in the shape of a superhero mask. To begin, two strips of tape are placed on the face, above and below the eyes, to create a defined area for applying makeup.

White eyeshadow powder is then applied as a base, with different colours layered on top to create a rainbow effect. The tape is removed to reveal the mask effect. For finishing touches, the look is enhanced with hand-drawn artistry, gems and 3D embellishments.

There are alternative approaches, such as James Charles' preference for a mask in shades of pink with clouds, but the fundamental concept remains the same.

Key hashtags: #rainbowmask: 3.5M views / #rainbowmakeup: 349.5M views

Key influencers: @lucasrodgerss/ @mimiermakeup/ @beatsbydeb/ @nikkietutorials/ @jamescharles  

 
 

2. Sugar Plum Fairy

Once again, Hailey Bieber triggered another viral makeup trend, this time fusing food-inspired narratives with her signature, Clean Girl coquettishness to declare winter 23/24, Sugar Plum Fairy season. Inspired by her childhood role in The Nutcracker, Bieber posted a festive look that riffs on the ballet’s iconic Land of Sweets segment, using sugary, shimmery pink hues with plum undertones.

To create the look, bright pink blush is extended from the cheeks to the temple and draped across the bridge of the nose and the eyes to create a frost-bitten glow.  Plum, berry, warm pink, and mauve colours are also used by TikTokkers, reflecting the look on different skin tones. Defining her brows and adding a subtle glow with highlighter, Bieber then adds faux freckles. The look is completed by the Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment in the limited-edition shade Jelly Bean (a shimmery sheer pink).

Sugar Plum Fairy makeup builds on several key trends that surfaced last year (most of which were perpetuated by Bieber herself), blending the glow of #CleanGirl with the pink hues of #Balletcore.

Rising hashtags: #sugarplumfairy: 129M views/ #ballet: 19.8B views/ #balletcore: 1.4B views

Key influencers: @haileybieber/ @alissajanay1/ @victorialyn

 
 

3. Uncanny Valley Makeup

The Uncanny Valley trend, popularised by creator Emilia Barth, gained widespread attention at the end of 2023, thanks to her unsettling transformation into a humanoid robot. Using pale foundation and concealer, liquid eyeliner, and contour powder, Barth mimics the plasticky appearance of a robot’s skin, creating an eerily captivating effect.

The look is inspired by the slightly awkward imagery often generated by AI, which has flooded the public consciousness in recent months. TikTokkers have been quick to capture this uneasy aesthetic by recreating the almost otherworldly looks. Part robotic and part doll-like, the finished result is purposefully unnerving, with TikTokkers adding exaggerated facial expressions and haunting choral music to double-down on the uncanny effect. The trend now extends beyond mere makeup application, to include an Uncanny Valley-inspired filter. With its esoteric and unconventional themes, #UncannyValley occupies the same universe as #weirdcore and #dreamcore, as Gen Z continues to explore increasingly extreme and subversive narratives as a form of self-expression.

Rising hashtags: #uncannyvalleymakeup: 233.5M views

Key influencers: @blonde.girlyy/ @mimiermakeup/ @yodelinghaley 

 
 

The CIC Take

TikTok continues to prove to be a vital indicator of the motivations of Gen Z, and our latest Trend Book, Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US is enriched with the latest TikTok data (provided by our partner, Spate), which feeds our prospective research and trend analysis. In it, we explore the latest consumer shifts and how these are impacting makeup - including the evolution of subversive messaging, as consumers embrace increasingly unconventional - and unhinged - aesthetics.

Contact us today for more information on Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US.

The Female Gaze: Radically Redefining Korean Femininity

Self-expression, equality, and independence: these are the prominent demands of young Korean women, who, despite continued obstruction, are pushing against established narratives to rewrite the rules of femininity. 

 

Photo credit - Oddtype via Instagram

 

Our latest What’s Up Korea report delves into what has become one of the biggest social-cultural shifts in Korea - the rise of feminism and the emergence of new aesthetic codes. With 64% of Korean women in their 20s supporting feminism, this is an issue that is already influencing and shaping K-beauty trends, giving rise to gender-neutral, masculine, and rebellious looks.  

Read on to discover key highlights from The Female Gaze - one of five key territories identified in our full What’s Up Korea report - as femininity is radically redefined by the next generation.

1. 4B BEAUTY

South Korea has had a recent history of bold feminist action, from the call to “free the corset” in the late 2010s to today’s radical “4B” movement. The formation of 4B marks an ideological shift as young Korean women mobilize to shake up societal expectations. The four "B’s" are based on the following four principles: Bihon (no to heterosexual marriage), Bichulsan (no to childbirth), Biyeonae  (no to dating), and Bisekseu (no to heterosexual sexual relationships). 

This radical new thinking bleeds into beauty, fuelling  #utilitycore and #militarycore trends on social media, as women absorb traditionally masculine codes into their beauty sphere and K-pop idols proudly go makeup-free. At Seoul Fashion Week, highly functional and gorpcore-esque, clothing came in a muted, military palette that was echoed in the minimalist, colorless and barefaced makeup looks, spotted at Ajobyajo and BLR.


2. GRUNGE GODDESS

Breaking the rules of traditional makeup, the emergence of alternative looks is closely aligned with the rise of feminism. We are tracking a growing trend for glossy lids, hand-drawn freckles (+33.7% YoY increase in Naver searches - Spate NY Tool - Oct 2022 to Nov 2023 vs Oct 2021 to Nov 2022), dark under eyes, teeth gems, bleached eyebrows and piercings. At Fashion Week, the aesthetic was elevated at Vegan Tiger, where models sported exaggerated freckles and glossy lids, while at HEEYONGHeE, the only obvious sign of makeup was a dark purple undereye. Here, hair was almost greasy, with loose strands falling all over the face for a messy, don’t care look.


3. WARRIOR GLAM

Coming out fighting, young women are going to war with the patriarchy. South Korean women are being shown in a new, empowering light - from the success of the new feminist thriller Green Night (starring Fan Bingbing) to the bold feminist lyrics in the debut single of girl group Nugu. Against this backdrop, fashion and beauty are becoming key weapons to articulate women’s dissatisfaction with outdated ideologies. At Fashion Week, Holy Number 7 took inspiration from the boxing gym, with models sporting sparring gloves and head protectors as accessories. In beauty, a more sophisticated coolness emerges, far from the romantic and girly aesthetic that defines mainstream Korean tastes. New brands are inspiring consumers to embrace their individuality, such as the vegan-certified Oddtype, which proposes an embracing of individuality, and beauty that cannot be defined by one type. This brings a fresh perspective to the Korean beauty space, that breaks away from cliches. 

THE CIC TAKE

Shifting gender politics in Korea will have global implications for the beauty industry, as young Korean women move away from conventional beauty tropes to embrace more radical and expressive looks. This departure will have a huge impact on cosmetics innovation, changing the direction of the Hallyu beauty wave as brands must adapt to stay relevant to politically engaged and empowered consumers.

To get your copy of the full What’s Up Korea report, to arrange a personalised Seoul Inspiration Tour, or for a specialist Seoul Retail Report, contact us today.

TIKTOK: OCTOBER TREND INSPIRATION

Source : @itsbeautybybrit / @hhheathermichelle / @sofiarichiegrainge

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover which autumnal food is inspiring the latest viral makeup trend and the lip look championed by TikTok’s newest super-influencer, Sofia Richie.

  1. BETTY BOOP MAKEUP

The Betty Boop makeup trend has taken TikTok by storm, with the hashtag #bettyboopmakeup amassing an impressive 305.2 million views. This captivating challenge encourages users to transform their appearance to resemble the animated icon, Betty Boop. From the bold red lips to the signature hairstyle, participants showcase their creativity in recreating the vintage look of this legendary character. The meticulous attention to detail extends to the eyebrows, as users artfully shape and style them to mirror Betty's high, rounded arc.

Notably, views experienced a significant surge in October, suggesting a correlation with preparations for Halloween. This trend underscores the TikTok community's creativity and responsiveness, seizing the opportunity to metamorphose into one of pop culture's most iconic figures.    

Key Influencers: @itsbeautybybrit / @madddnot

Rising Hashtag:  #bettyboopmakeup 305.2M views

2. PUMPKIN SPICE MAKEUP

Pumpkin spice flavours have become synonymous with autumn,  capturing the warm essence of the season. And as food narratives continue to cascade into beauty, unsurprisingly TikTokkers have now turned the coffee shop favourite into a viral beauty trend.  

Pumpkin Spice Makeup is characterised by a monochromatic bronzed look, while Pumpkin Spice Latte Makeup is distinguished by warmer honey tones with shades of orange and cinnamon. 

What makes these trends particularly attractive is their ease of replication. Monochromatic brown tones create a coherent and warm aesthetic, underscoring that an abundance of colours isn't always necessary. Simplicity and warmth are the keys to an elegant and timeless autumn look.

Key Influencers: @hhheathermichelle / @giofilmedthis

Rising Hashtags: #pumpkinspicelattemakeup: 5.9M views / #pumpkinspicemakeup: 25.1M views / #pumpkinmakeup: 69.8M views

CONCEALER LIPS 

The influencer Sofia Richie (@sophiarichiegrainge – 3.4M followers on Tiktok) recently sparked a new craze for #concealerlips (65.9M views) when she ditched vampy autumnal hues for ombré nudes.

In her viral TikTok tutorial, Richie used a combination of YSL's Candy Glaze in shades 14 (Scenic Brown) and 15 (Showcasing Nude), applying the tones in a tapping motion to the lips. She then placed a dab of concealer in the centre, creating a delicate ombré finish.  

Once popular in the early 2000s, concealer lips have faded from the makeup scene with the rise of barely-there nudes, but the recent revival (although receiving mixed reactions) can be linked to the rise of Latte and Pumpkin Spice makeup looks.

Key Influencers: @sofiarichiegrainge/ @kellystrackofficial

Rising Hashtag: #concealerlips: 66.3M views

The CIC Take:

Latte Makeup continues to exert influence, as the trend moves in a new direction dictated by the season. The popularity of the look is strongly linked to the universal appeal of brown tones and the ease of recreation - signalling a preference for simplified routines.

FLEXCARE: Skincare adapts to a transient world

We are living in a world in a constant state of flux and our latest trend report, Transformative Beauty: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, encourages brands to lean into the desire for change.

Photo Credit: Utu

The growing influence of nomadic lifestyles and surge in travel feed into the transformative narrative, as major lifestyle shifts present new opportunities for brands. FLEXCARE is one of six universes presented in our report as defining the next phase of skincare and wellness. In this perspective territory, we explore how the impulse to travel and the influx of untethered lifestyles must be met with multitasking products that fit with, and adapt to, transient needs. Below is a snapshot from the FLEXCARE universe, offering an insight into two major new drivers: the desire for cooling sensations in the context of rising temperatures and the need to redefine practicality for the new era of on-the-go lifestyles.

1- COOLBOMING: Resort sensoriality

As society adapts to rising temperatures, keeping cool is a new imperative, leading to innovation in fabrics and formulations that offer relief from the heat. Clothing brand LifeLabs has developed CoolLife technology - a polyethylene fabric that regulates body heat to cool the wearer’s temperature 3°F more effectively than comparable fabrics. While in beauty, new textures and tools that deliver refreshing effects are replicating the same cooling sensations. 

  • The Chasin’ Rabbits Ice-Cold Soothing Serum Roller (May 2023) provides pore-tightening and cooling in one gesture. The surgical steel roller applicator glides over the skin to deliver an instant cooling sensation.

  • The After Sun Gel (April 2023) from cult US suncare brand Vacation is a modern take on nostalgic aloe vera aftersun products but with a refreshing non-sticky, alcohol-free formula infused with cucumber, and Bisabolol. The gel is cool-to-touch, bringing soothing relief to sun-exposed skin.

2- TRANSIENT ADAPTIVE: Reinventing practicality

Since the pandemic, increasing numbers of young people have been drawn to a nomadic lifestyle, while at the same time people are spending more time outdoors (linked to the mental health benefits of nature and the travel boom). These lifestyle shifts, combined with rising sustainability concerns and the global financial crisis, are driving the market for #summerskincare (230M TikTok views) miniatures and multiuse products adapted to on-the-go and outdoor lifestyles. 

  • New brand Utu developed the Tinted Sunscreen Stick Broad Spectrum SPF50 (May 2023) specifically for people with a love for the outdoors - the stick is marketed as "the perfect companion for every adventure under the sun".

  • New products are designed to combat the effects of humidity on the skin. Florence by Mills’ Mind Over Matte-R Oil Blotting Stick (July 2023) is an oil blotting stick, which blurs and minimizes shine for a visibly smooth, matte appearance. While the First Aid Beauty Anti-Chafe Stick (April 2023) addresses the issue of skin chafing by creating a sweat-resistant shield that lasts for 10,000 steps. 

THE CIC TAKE

With half of US consumers intending to travel more in 2023 than they did last year (Source: Forbes Advisor Survey, August 2023), the nomadic lifestyle shift will continue to grow demand for  skincare products that are easy-to-use and portable, while also driving the need for intelligent suncare and quick fixes that reinvent practicality for the nomadic age.


The full report, Transformative Beauty: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, is available right now - please contact the team today for more information. 

(Image: courtesy Utu)

TIKTOK: September Trend Inspiration

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on social media to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation. Read on to discover the next food-inspired beauty trend and the controversial music video that is inspiring TikTokkers to experiment with provocative beauty looks. 


1. STRAWBERRY MAKEUP by Hailey Bieber 🍓💋

Naming skin trends after food has become a trend in itself, and despite some backlash, TikTokkers continue to latch on to these buzzy terms. From latte makeup to potato makeup, food-related shades are capturing the imagination. 

In August, strawberry makeup went viral, thanks to Hailey Bieber uploading a photo of herself with a dewy, fresh look, signed off with the emojis: 🍓💋. In doing so, she inadvertently created this summer’s signature beauty trend, #strawberrymakeup. Perhaps not coincidentally, Bieber timed her strawberry post with the launch of a new lip treatment flavour by her brand Rhode; Strawberry Glaze. 

The strawberry makeup look is defined by a quick, fresh summer makeup that continues Bieber’s signature style of a glowy, rosy, light complexion created using creamy products. The T-zone is illuminated, while the contour is accentuated by a darker bronzer. The key element is "false freckles", which have been a constant feature over the summer. Finally, the lip contour is worked with a lip pencil and then a gloss to finish.

Key Influencers: @andrea_subotic/ @jamescharles / @glowwithnorhane

Rising Hashtags: #strawberrymakeup – 308.6M views / #strawberrygirl – 60.4M views (September 14, 2023)

Spate Data: TikTok searches for Strawberry Makeup +4386,5% YoY (September 11, 2023)

2. CONTROVERSY by Doja Cat🩸🥀

Doja Cat has never been shy of courting controversy and her latest song, “Paint the Town Red”, is her most provocative creation yet. The TikTok-famous dance anthem flirts with themes of satanic worship, feeding the cultural appetite for transgressive content. In the music video, she is seen embracing the grim reaper, throwing raw meat, wearing pentagrams and devil horns. 

Doja Cat’s creative subversions have a loyal following on social media, triggering copycat makeup looks inspired by the themes explored in her controversial content. Adjacent looks play with the aesthetic codes of Paint the Town Red: new romantic, vampiric and gothic gestures,  blood red lips outlined with a darker pencil, black and red graphic eyes, fake blood artistry and mis-applied mascara. 

Key Influencers: @tyra.mua/@makeup.lois/ @k.figaszewska/ @jeamyblessed/ @anemariemua/ @sophiasinot

Rising Hashtags:  #dojacat – 28.3B views/  #demonsdojacat – 3.4M views/ #painttownred – 6.9M views/ I paint the town red makeup – 18M views (September 14, 2023)

3. WRINKLE ART - taking it back to 2018 -🌪️

The latest creative beauty hack doing the rounds on TikTok was spurred by @nettart (27.7K followers on Tiktok), who created the look that she calls, "metallic chic". To achieve a wrinkle-effect, the model is asked to squeeze their eyes shut tightly, and then metallic pigment is worked over the folds of the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Once the eyes are open a stencil-like effect is created from the negative space of the folds.

Key Influencers: @catquinn / @josiezhou1028/ @meicrosoft/ @f.bermann/ @arsonblue/ @julias_makeup_palette

Rising Hashtag: #wrinklemakeup – 97.8K views (September 14, 2023

The CIC Take

The popularity of Doja Cat’s often shocking social media content confirms the shift towards transgressive beauty influences. Brands should take confidence in the consumer appetite for edgy, alternative looks and develop products that fuel the desire for subversive experiences: such as sticky, visceral textures, gore embellishments, and prosthetics that dramatically alter the features.

TIKTOK: SUMMER Trend Inspiration

Sources: @makeupbysamathaharvey - @millieleer - @luvyurselfboo

Every month the CIC team takes the pulse of social media to unearth the strongest beauty signals. This Summer, it was impossible to avoid the impact of Barbie and the dominance of one colour - pink, but as ever, TikTokers made the trend their own with interesting subversions. Brown was another key colour, as #LatteMakeup went viral and users recreated the effects of summery, bronzed skin in monochrome caramel tones.

The state of the economy is never far from consumers’ minds, and frugal themes are being reflected in beauty in increasingly interesting ways. Last month, users creatively demonstrated the multifunctionality of a single product, prompting followers to strip back their makeup kits to the bare essentials.

Overall, summer was defined by ingenuity and creativity, as TikTokkers demonstrated makeup’s transformative power. Read on to discover the top three trends for Summer 2023:

  1. ANTI-BARBIE

With the release of the movie Barbie, directed by Greta Gerwig, makeup looks inspired by the iconic doll have multiplied (#barbiemakeup: +183K Instagram posts/ 833.6M TikTok views). Pink (specifically Pantone 212) and blue dominate, while eye looks are a focus, inspired by the "double cut crease" or "siren eyes" trend. In the most commercial expression of the trend, influencers are recreating classic Barbie eyes to a soundtrack of Aqua’s infamous Barbie Girl (1997) tune.

Key Influencers: @makeupbysamanthaharvey / @franduartmakeup / @isabelleikpeme 

Inevitably there has been a creative backlash as people denounce the race to perfection (and the proximity to plastic surgery). Influences from drag queen culture (such as tyra.mua's @trixiemattel-inspired look) to the world of Tim Burton result in more pronounced and exaggerated looks that distort the ultra-perfect aesthetic. Influencers are also juxtaposing the saccharine pink of Barbie with the darker themes of the movie Oppenheimer  (#barbenheimer 501.5M TikTok views) to create contrasting pink-black looks. 

However, where this trend becomes really interesting is when TikTokers confront the pressure to be perfect by using makeup to depict the cosmetic procedures it takes to be Barbie beautiful. And finally, the trend comes back to a strong message of self-acceptance, as users reverse the heavily contoured, pink-hued look to reveal their natural beauty. Ultimately, the Anti-Barbie trend is a message of hope and acceptance. By rejecting the pressure to be perfect, people are encouraged to embrace and celebrate their authentic appearance.

2. LATTE MAKEUP 

Propelled by Hailey Bieber’s transition from Clean Girl to bronzed goddess, this trend is growing by the day. Latte makeup consists mainly of warm, brown hues (the predominant tones are caramel and coffee) for the eyes and face, while lips are nude or glossy. Cheeks are further sculpted with bronzer to create a radiant glow.  The surge is confirmed by Spate which shows that TikTok searches for Latte Makeup are at 33.7M, while views of the hashtag  #lattemakeup are at 129.9M. One of the main appeals of this trend, and pivitol to its virility on social media, is its inclusive nature - the warm, brown palette suits a range of skin tones and types, unlike Vanilla Girl or Clean Girl which skews towards Eurocentric ideals. 

Diverting from the wholesome glow of Latte Makeup, #EspressoMakeup (7.5M views) is being dubbed as the trend’s “grungier sister” on social media. This take involves deeper and darker tones to create a more intense and sultry look that focuses on the eyes. A demi-matte complexion is blushed with bronzing pearls, while the eyes are outlined in dark brown pencil and coloured with chocolate-hued shadow which is smudged to create an intense smoky effect. 

Key Influencers: @millieleer / @alissajanay / @daniellestrada / @chiaraadelgrosso / @stellafragkoulaki / @jacinta_spencer

Rising Hashtags: #lattemakeuplook 22.7M views / #bronzymakeup 50.9M views / #glowymakeup 1.1B views / #smokeyeye 967M views

3. “I ONLY WEAR…”

This recurring trend peaks at a time when cost-consciousness is at the forefront of consumers’ minds. It involves the frequent and multifunctional use of one favoured product, but can be applied to any product in the makeup kit, from concealer to lipstick.

Concealer: Applied in quantity, it ultimately replaces a foundation. It is applied to targeted areas of the face and blended, or used as contour.

Key Influencers: @teaspahiu / @froartistry / @luvyurselfboo

Rising Hashtags: #ionlywearconcealer 20.7M views / #fullcoverageconcealer 105.1M views / #onlyconcealermakeup 3.5M views

Lipstick: Here the idea is to demonstrate the possibility of the multifunctionality of a lipstick; it can be used as blush, eyeshadow or contouring stick, depending on its colour.

Key Influencers: @mimiermakeupusa/ @lenkalul/ @runscay

Lip Stain: Lip ink is applied generously to the lips, cheeks, eye area, left to dry and gently removed. The stain of colour lasts for several hours (or even days). TikTokkers are demonstrating the multifunctionality of the product, and showing how routines can be reduced down to one core product. 

Key Influencers: @suzi_sina / @cicihaskill / @gillianxgrace

THE CIC TAKE

With the release of Greta Gerwig’s blockbuster, we have finally reached peak #Barbiecore. While pink has proliferated, it has been interesting to see how a large quota of TikTokkers have used the moment to reassert messages of self-acceptance and individuality. The backlash again reaffirms how Gen Z likes to cast a critical creative eye on mainstream trends and subvert expectations. Success awaits brands that can leverage this desire for disruption.

Our latest Makeup Inspiration from the USA trend book explores the transformative power of makeup and takes a deep dive into the social shifts shaping the next phase of beauty. Contact us today for more information on how to get hold of your copy.

The figures and data in this article are dated July 2023.

INSPIRATION TOUR: SEOUL RETAIL SNAPSHOT

This month, CIC Chief Inspirations Officer Leila Rochet has been shopping and gallery hopping in Seoul, traversing the K-beauty capital to source the latest cult products, cutting-edge innovations and creative inspirations to feed the agency’s trend division.

When it comes to Beauty it’s hard to beat South Korea for innovation - from ground-breaking formulations, game-changing trend directions and awe-inspiring retail concepts. And retail has never been so dynamic, propelled by local brands that play with the codes of K-style.

Read on to discover 3 of Leila’s Seoul retail highlights:

1. ADER ERROR

518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul 

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, the space is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. Ader is also phygital retailing pioneer - customers can shop and try on goods virtually via Zepeto, take an online VR tour, or interact with in-store digital artworks and interfaces.

Inspiration Seeds: The store’s emphasis on experience encourages customers to truly discover, and engage with, the products. The giant fountain at the centre of the store is a highlight, but in the Ader world nothing is quite as it seems: a changing room can also double as a noraebang singing room, fixtures and fittings move on demand. 

2. WIGGLE WIGGLE.ZIP

1 Eonju-ro 168-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Image - Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This joyful multilevel concept store truly lives up to the lifestyle brand’s motto of, “let's make the obvious fun”. And so, over four floors, you will discover a riot of super-colourful homewares, accessories, pet products, toiletries and trinkets featuring the brand’s signature flower or bear motif. 

Inspiration Seeds: A favourite with K-Pop icons including BLACKPINK’s Jennie, Wiggle Wiggle.Zip is unapologetically playful. The store features a number of key interactive areas that are primed for Instagram photos and TikTok videos, where shoppers can pose with props against colourful backdrops, hang around in ‘upside down’ rooms or try out toiletries in a section styled like a cutesy home bathroom. 


3. THE PERFUME CLUB BY SOOHYANG

28 Seongsui-ro 7-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul

Copyright - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

ID Sheet: This unique perfume gallery plays to rising connoisseurship by presenting a library of scents. Situated in a former perfume factory, the under-the-radar retail space and workshop is purposefully moody and mysterious, creating a sophisticated environment in which to discover luxury scents by Soohyang. 

Inspiration Seeds: This hidden gem in the upcoming neighbourhood of Seongsu is dedicated to the discovery of new scents. Presented as a social space where people can come together over a common interest in scent, it is a unique space that perfectly illustrates Seoulista’s rising interest in perfumes.

The CIC Take:

Our bespoke Inspiration Tours are uniquely tailored guides to key cities covering retail, galleries, museums, architectural hot spots, and the coolest places to eat and drink. Our partners, Latitude37, are our boots-on-the-ground in Seoul, and as local retail experts - we work closely with the Latitude team to ensure our guides are packed with the latest hotspots and openings.

Following our recent research trip, we can also compile a detailed Retail Report where we will explore the latest openings, consumer shifts and social influences impacting Seoul’s dynamic retail scene.

If you are interested in an Inspiration Tour of Seoul (or any other Beauty city) or a Retail Report please drop us a line today to discuss your needs!

All pictures are from our Agency and copyright protected. Please do not share without prior approval.

Inspiration from the US: 3 SKINCARE TRENDS

Photo: Unsplash Dynamic Wang

During this period of perma-crisis, the rules of skincare are being rewritten as consumers navigate their way through compound stresses. In this context, darkness becomes a safe space, new semantics enter the skincare conversation and Gen Z continues to reinvent the very definition of self-perfection. Comfort and care are key drivers, but consumers are forging unexpected pathways to their new skincare goals.

In our latest deep-dive report, Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, the agency proposes 6 territories for innovation, drawing on the latest consumer shifts, social media trends, data analysis and product launches.

Below, is a snapshot of three core trends from the full 50-page report, which is available to order today.

1- Future Pioneers: Precious Synthetics

In pursuit of hyper-specific solutions, consumers are leaning even deeper into science and technology - hitching their skincare goals to the latest world-changing innovations. Science fascinates a new generation of consumers who are more engaged in scientific content than ever, with S.T.E.M. (Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics) careers now the #1 attraction for students in the US. Living through the pandemic and witnessing first-hand how science can directly improve society, drives the desire to realise science’s potential for positive change.

  • Precious Synthetics

Safe synthetics pose valuable solutions for two key consumer demands - potent efficacy and sustainable sourcing. Brands have an opportunity to change the narrative around chemicals by clarifying ingredient benefits and stepping up the sustainability story. The educational approach of brands such as  Paula’s Choice, The Ordinary and The Inkey List, pivots on their ingredient-first positionings. Their collective successes positively impact the perception of safe chemicals.

The benefits of the 6 pro-collagen peptides that power Paula’s Choice’s Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster (February 2023) are clearly explained on the product packaging. The formulation harnesses newly researched peptide technology to target key proteins in the skin’s extracellular matrix. These signal proteins rebuild, strengthen and firm the skin at a deeper level with six pro-collagen peptides. Herbivore Botanicals has introduced 5% THD vitamin C into its ingredient list - an ultra-stable ingredient that improves the look of dark circles. It is the star ingredient of the Super Nova 5% THD Vitamin C Brightening Eye Cream (January 2023) which is further powered by antioxidant-rich turmeric and caffeine. 

2 - Level-Up the Derma Story: Barrier Boom

Trust and proven efficiency become central to the derma game, as super-informed consumers seek professional-level products with medicalised claims. Fuelled by the surge in online medical influencers and the desire for proof of extreme efficiency, the skincare narrative is changing. The conversation is ramped-up to dermatologist-level, as once-professional terms, such as the skin biome, enter the lexicon of the everyday skincare consumer.

  • Barrier Boom

The awareness of biome-care has accelerated in the past six months in-line with growing reports of skin sensitivity. Spate figures confirm consumers’ concerns - searches for Barrier Repair are up +8.6% and there is a spike in searches for adjacent ingredients, including Ceramides (+35.6%), Panthenol (+168%) and Peptide Moisturizers (+96.2%).

Ingredients that specifically recruit bacteria to depollute the skin offer the best protection against environmental aggressors, meaning that pre/probiotics have become the norm in new barrier care products. Powered by pre-biotic beta-glucan and post-biotic lactococcus ferment lysate, Bliss’ Mighty Biome Pre/Pro-Biotics + Barrier Aid Deep  Cleansing Balm melts into the skin to dissolve makeup, sunscreen and impurities while also hydrating to restore the skin’s balance. Packed with 5 ceramides and panthenol, the Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream (January 2023) from Dr. Jart+ is a fast-absorbing, cushiony moisturizing cream. Vitamin-derived panthenol increases moisture and reinforces the skin barrier for more water retention.

3- Counterculture: Dark PotencY

In the grip of global unrest, the counter-culture offers an alternative refuge. The darkness conceals the unconventional and becomes an invitation to take a less-traveled path to happiness. Feelings of fear, nihilism and despair lead to controversial expressions of beauty, and a reframing of darkness as a state of comfort and safety. Ugly ingredients and uncanny visuals offer a strangely seductive counterpoint to the overly-sanitized side of skincare.

  • Dark Potency

In the permacrisis era, darkness is not wholly negative - new, optimistic perspectives emerge as consumers find happiness in unexpected places. This is a trend that first began circulating on social media, where #witchtok has clocked over 39.6B views and where iterations of the gothic trend have been propelled by Gen Z. Google searches for Southern Goth Aesthetic are predicted to increase +5.9% over the next 12 months, according to Spate. 

Rituel de Fille embraces the spectrum of goth-adjacent visuals and witchcraft semantics - creating products that viscerally connect with the #witchtok universe. The moisturizing skin mist Thorn Milk (October 2022) takes on a mesmerizing property - appearing like droplets of blood in water. The brand also plays with viscerality - creating unexpected textures and product experiences. No more so than in the pulpy, jelly sensation of Thorn Pulp (October 2022) - a cleansing balm with a uniquely strange texture that feels almost fleshy.


The CIC Take

This manifesto for innovation prepares brands for a future that is rapidly being shaped by driven and demanding consumers who are seeking scientific solutions and unconventional pathways to well-being.

This is an extract of our latest report - Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, is the agency’s latest report.

Contact us today for information on how to get hold of the full 50-page report.

NB: * Source: Spate tool USA- Data from End february 2023 .

Clean Beauty London: Top 5 Innovations

Clean Beauty returned to London for its 2nd edition in April, delivering two days of inspiration and innovation to brands stepping up to meet the growing demand for conscious beauty. 

There’s nothing we enjoy more at CIC than a spot of radical innovation, and Clean Beauty made sure that it was hard to ignore this year’s trailblazing creations. InnoZone, was a new area that helpfully gathered together a selection of 20 of the industry’s latest developments in the fields of natural and renewable raw materials, eco-design, and green chemistry.

Here are the CIC Top 5 innovations from this year’s event: 

1- Tint Me Up by Artcosmetics (IT)

The water-activated Tint Me Up skin-perfecting tablets transform into a soft, coloured complexion mousse on contact. The tablets contain over 80% natural ingredients and come in recyclable and refillable paper packaging. 

2- REGENIGHT™ by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (FR)

Also catching our eye was REGENIGHT™ -a breakthrough active ingredient that taps the burgeoning beauty sleep category. Incorporating upcycled extracts from Australian tea tree oil, the formula reduces skin fatigue by stimulating the melatonin pathway to aid recovery and regeneration. 

3- SPF15 Face Cream by Icc SRL (IT)

In the natural and renewable materials section, Icc SRL showcased an SPF15 face cream that contains renewable alternatives to the usual chemical-based ingredients, including watercress, Lepidum Sativum and almond oil. 

4- Waterproof Clean Mascara by ITIT Cosmetics (IT)

Containing calendula oil from plants grown at a vertical farm, and recycled wild apple seed oil (a byproduct from the food industry), this breakthrough formula encapsulates two key pillars of Clean Beauty - waste reappropriation and sustainable sourcing.  Every component of the packaging is made with recycled and renewable materials, including a biobasedbrush derived from casto plants

5- In & Out Beauty Capsules Collection by Tecnocosmesi S.P.A (IT)

Representing the burgeoning nutricosmetics sector, these lipo-soluble and vegan capsules promise to boost the beautification benefits of cosmetics by providing important functional nutrients to enhance the skin from within. 


The CIC Take

Waterless and single-dose formats stood out amongst the most promising innovations at this year’s show, and along with renewable raw ingredients, these concepts are reshaping the Clean Beauty sector into a waste-free, plastic-free space.

Our latest What’s Up and Inspiration books provide a clear outlook on the current trends in sustainable beauty - contact us today for your copy.

Or why not meet us at MakeUp in Paris? On June 14 & 15, the CIC team will be at Carrousel du Louvre (Booth E18) offering a talk-through of our latest insight reports, alongside hosting a showcase of the hottest new product innovations, sourced from all over the globe. Click here for more info.

Genderful Beauty: Makeup for men hits the mainstream

Source: Pleasing x Marco Ribeiro

Thanks to an influx of TikTok creators, the male makeup category is finally having its moment. Fuelled by the boom in #GRWM (Get Ready With Me) videos, men are more comfortably - and confidently - experimenting with colour cosmetics. In a short period of time, the trend for male makeup has shifted from the red carpet to the shelves of High Street retailers. 

Our agency’s latest US Makeup Inspiration book: Beauty’s New Manifesto, explores this new arc of masculine beauty, defined not by an aesthetic ambiguity but by an embracing of all male archetypes. 

1- Do you want to #GRWM (Get Ready With Me)?

With 96.4B views on TikTok, the #GRWM hashtag has become one of the most popular in the beauty sphere, as creators share their multistep makeup routines with their followers. Its popularity among male users and content creators has accelerated since the pandemic, propelling the normalisation of men-in-makeup and creating strong consumer demand for male-leaning products and messaging. 

Male makeup brand Stryx has built a strong TikTok following thanks to its #GRWM content, which is often fronted by its founder Jon Shanahan. Stryx pushes the boundaries of male beauty beyond gender fluidity: videos where a moustached Shanahan shows how to apply makeup often perform better than those featuring men without facial hair. This type of content is helping to propel men-in-makeup into a new space of acceptance.

Key hashtags: 

 #GRWM: 96.4B views

#mensmakeup: 363.7 million

#boysmakeup: 22M views

2- A Pleasing Sentiment

In our US Makeup Inspiration book, we highlight the continued influence of Harry Styles’ Pleasing.  The brand continues to drive a powerful and genderful approach with inclusive visuals that show products against all genders, skintones and ages.  Pleasing empowers men to be part of the colour cosmetics conversation.

The brand’s recent collaborations - a makeup range with fashion designer Marco Ribeiro (September 2022) and the Pollinators nail varnish micro-collection (April 2023) - are designed to encourage infinite experimentation through bold colors - whatever your gender. 

Taking a leaf from Pleasing’s playbook, Good Weird is a new genderless Gen Z beauty brand (March 2023) founded by two men and fronted by American model, actor and skateboarder Evan Mock. The brand’s hero product is a bronzer stick that comes in a range of skin-inclusive shades.

3- Mainstreaming Masc Beauty

As the momentum behind male makeup gathers pace, High Street retailers and mass market brands are recognising the growing demand for male-focused products. 

UK retailer Boots is bolstering its male grooming offer with the introduction of UK indie brand, Shakeup Cosmetics. The range on offer will include an undereye concealer, tinted BB moisturiser and lip-plumping gel. While in late 2022 Rimmel London named Olympic athlete Tom Daley as tit’s first-ever global male beauty ambassador. 

The CIC Take

The consumer perception of masculine stereotypes is rapidly evolving thanks to a new era of male beauty icons and the democratization of skincare and beauty, propelled by TikTok. There is an opportunity for brands to be bold and pitch to the growing male market with messages of creativity and freedom of expression. 


For more insight into the metamorphosis of the male beauty category, and others, our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US book is available right now. Contact us today for your copy. 

Enter the ALT ERA

We’re entering a new cultural phase, where trends emerge from the most unexpected sources and where niche references challenge conventional thinking - and aesthetics. Consumers are trying to survive the metacrisis in any way they can - and are being driven toward the less-traveled path to happiness.

Comfort is found in unconventional places and ugly ingredients and uncanny visuals offer a strangely seductive counterpoint to the overly-sanitized side of skincare.

Our latest inspiration book, Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, explores the rise of Counter-Culture. Below is a snapshot of one facet of this territory: Trash Beauty, which proposes how the discarded and rejected are becoming valued commodities.

1- Upstreaming Waste

The perception of waste shifts from a thing of ugliness to a critical ingredient. Searches for Upcycling are experiencing a +4.4% increase YoY while searches for Recyclable are averaging at 534.5K a month (Source: Spate).  The fashion industry leads beauty in this trend, as brands invest in sustainable material alternatives, and forge a new luxury narrative centered on circularity.

  • Sustainable brand Pangaia has developed a denim jacket made from 100% recycled cotton. The jacked is made from NuCycl - a trademarked lyocell fiber that contains a mix of pre-and post-consumer textile waste.

2 - Unlikely Heroes

In skincare, the upcycling of food waste has accelerated in recent years as byproducts from the food and drink industry have found their way into the ingredient listings of luxury products.

  • UK natural skincare brand Haeckels has created a new product range using the coffee bean waste discarded by WatchHouse - a British coffee brand. The Oat Milk Moisturizing Lotion is formulated using coffee beans, avocado seeds and oat milk.

3- Mud, Mud, Mud

As consumers become more comfortable with messy ingredients and textures, dirty wellness experiences are rising as they are onboarded to the mineral-rich benefits of mud. On TikTok, videos of #mudbaths have over 159.2M views.

  • A new UK-based restaurant pop-up, Dish The Dirt, hopes to further destigmatize soil by making it the focus of immersive, multi-sensory dining experiences. The meal is designed to connect diners with food and soil in a sensorial, innovative manner to underscore the importance of soil nutrition and regeneration.

The CIC Take:

It’s an exciting time for Beauty, as we see individual expression take precedence over homogeneity and we see the impact of more avant-garde, confrontational and challenging influences. Brands have an opportunity to be bold here and excite consumers with unusual, waste ingredients and visceral textures that add a new dimension to their storytelling while also upholding sustainable values.



For a more detailed analysis of Trash Beauty, and the 6 X3 other trends impacting skincare, contact us today to find out how to get hold of our report: Beauty’s New Manifesto: Skincare Inspiration from the US.

Photo credit: Unsplash Amanda Souza

TIKTOK INSPIRATIONAL BEAUTY TRENDS - February 2023

TikTok analysis allows us to take the pulse of the Beauty consumer, and track their current priorities and motivations, in real time. From the latest Beauty hacks to the most meme’d moment from NYFW, February’s trending TikTok content is united by the themes of reinterpretation, rebellion and resourcefulness.


Read on to discover 4 leading Beauty inspirations from February 2023:

1. ANTI-VALENTINE: THE CREATIVE COUNTER-RESPONSE

Rising Hashtags:

#antivalentinesdaymakeup: 3.6M views

As Valentines Day approached, an international holiday typified by a proliferation of pink and an outpouring of love, a counter-movement emerged on TikTok - one which offered a response to the idealized version of romance. Instead, TikTokers embraced their broken hearts and expressed their lovesickness through darkly artistic looks. 

At a time when consumers are chasing alternative aesthetics and challenging conventional beauty tropes, the post-breakup look and revenge face emerge as new artistic expressions. Rising alongside adjacent trends such as #CryingMakeup, #ColdGirl, #GlamGoth and #WednesdyAddamsMakeup, the Anti-Valentines look is typified by glistening faux tears, tracked mascara, the dominance of the color black, fake piercings and trashy, barbed heart artistry. 

Influencers to follow:

@jennseren, @emilytembymakeu, @elpltt, @trinsmakeups

 
@elpltt_ Lovesick #valentinesmakeup #valentinesday got the idea to do a sickly look from @sophia ♬ Lovefool - Best Love Songs
 

2. BIG RED BOOTS: NYFW’S MOST VIRAL MOMENT

Rising Hashtags:

#bigredboots: 49M views / #mschf: 1.5B views

It was almost impossible to hide from those MSCHF red boots in February, as every social platform was flooded with influencer posts or memes parodying their cartoonish proportions. Beauty TikTokers and Instagrammers were quick to jump on the hype and appropriate their viralability with irreverent reinterpretations of their bold, red, form. With the help of moldings in the shape of the shoe, nail artists were able to reproduce the model perfectly and create micro-versions for the tips of their nails.

The boots arguably stole most of the NYFW headlines, driving plenty of traffic toward their creators, the Brooklyn-based fashion and art collective, MSCHF. Inspired by Astro Boy, the oversize boots were a piece of creative risk-taking - merging gaming nostalgia with the aesthetics of a metaversal x real-world crossover. But a word of warning for brands - in this era of heightened eco-responsibility, consider the environmental impact of short-term gimmicks. Is there life beyond the hype? 

Influencers to follow:

@aminaoui,@nailsbymei,@bellabacademy,@threadbeauty

 

@filtersbyjulia new manicure filter on snap inspired by the big red boots #bigredboots #bigredbootsmschf #mschf #filter #newfilter @filtersbyjulia ♬ Collide (more sped up) - Justine Skye

 

3. PRODUCT DEVIATION: THERE’S ALWAYS A PLAN B

Ever creative, particularly in this tough economic time, TikTokkers are exploring new applications for tried-and-tested products, highlighting new uses that deviate from their primary function or illustrating useful hacks for Beauty emergencies.

  • LIP CRAYON HACK

Imagine a scenario where you’re babysitting before a big night out but you’ve forgotten your makeup kit…Don’t panic! The latest hack to go viral on TikTok shows how a children’s coloring pencil can be used as a lip liner. Just moisten with a touch of water and apply to the lips.

Influencer to follow:

@mimiermakeup

  • CREAM BLUSH HACK

A clever hack that combines convenience and personalization, the idea here is to mix your lipstick (any from your kit) with a liquid foundation to create a unique cream blush color and texture of your liking. 

Influencer to follow:

@beautybaycom

  • PINK UNDEREYES

Rising Hashtags:

#pinkundereyetrend: 59.1M views

Undereye concealer is given added depth and impact by applying pink cream/liquid blush directly on top (before the concealer has been blended) to create a more luminous and fresh finish.

Influencers to follow:

@beautyybylucyy, @jennseren

 
 

4. DIY LIPGLOSS: COST-EFFECTIVE CUSTOMIZATION

Resourcefulness continued to inspire content with the homemade lipgloss trend. Ingenious and inexpensive, TikTokers are creating their own unique shade of lip gloss by mixing transparent gloss with an eyeshadow color of their choice. 

Influencer to follow:

@molchanovamua

 
 

THE CIC TAKE

  • Consumers continue to value creativity, but TikTokers are expanding beyond playful artistry to illustrate new cost-saving and personalization techniques that address current consumer pain points.

  • Experimental riffs on emotional makeup looks should encourage brands to take risks, and use more subversive messaging and visuals that tap into the growing appetite for the unconventional.

Brands must keep TikTok at the forefront in order to keep pace with the expectations of Gen Z consumers. Our latest Inspiration Book: Makeup Inspiration from the US, decodes the latest must-know TikTok trends, providing insight and analysis on how these influences should shape your future product development. Contact us today for your report teaser!

(Sources figures: TikTok February 2023)