PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS23: BEAUTY FOCUS

At the recent Paris Couture shows, trending hair and makeup looks were given sophisticated status. From grown-up Gothic Allure to a sumptuous twist on Clean Girl, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of the 5 key hair and beauty trends to watch:

#1 - Vanilla Girl 

Clean Girl continues to evolve into new territories of minimalism, and Couture week introduced the latest interpretation of the trend: Meet, Vanilla Girl. 

Source: Schiaparelli - Vogue Runway

The warmer, cosier sister of Clean Girl has been gaining momentum on TikTok, where #vanillagirlmakeup currently has 20.7M views.  As the name suggests, this is a more comfortable aesthetic, characterized by soft, buttery textures and neutral colours such as off-white, beige and cream. In Paris, Schiaparelli MUA Pat McGrath referenced the trend through candlelit skin, achieved using a soft matte base accented with a subtle rosy blush applied to the apples and up to the cheekbones. For the lips, a dewy pink balm completed the look. 

#2 - The Return of The Side Fringe 

In recent trend reports, CIC has tracked the growing influence of Kidult Beauty, as creators and consumers play with child-like aesthetics and references to create grown-up looks. This sense of childhood experimentalism seeped into Couture this season, where ultra-short and side-swept fringes evoked memories of self-inflicted home haircuts and early Noughties teen idols. 

Source visual: Armani Privé - Vogue Runway

At Viktor & Rolf, super-short fringes echoed the collection’s overarching Surrealist theme. Hair stylist Olivier Schawalder played with proportion with styles that featured short and blunt fringes paired with sleek, slightly bouffant ponytails.  On the front row at Schiaparelli, Kylie Jenner wore her bangs swept to the side and curved over one eye. 

#3 - Gothic Allure

The influence of Wednesday Addams is far-reaching and for Couture, MUAs put a sophisticated spin on the glam-goth aesthetic, demonstrating its potential to appeal beyond Wednesday’s core Gen Z audience. 

Source visual: Valentino - Julien Da Costa for Le Figaro

At Ronald van der Kemp, Marcello Costa referenced the classic goth aesthetic of matte white base and black lips but contemporized the look with bleached brows and a dramatic, smokey eye with shimmery red undertones. For Valentino, Pat McGrath looked to 80s Club Kids for inspiration with makeup looks that accentuated each model's individuality while playing to sub-culture themes. Many sported matte berry or black vinyl lips, heavily-lined eyes and a dramatic veil blush. 

#4 - ‘20s Redux

Source visual: Dior - ELLE

Serving up references to the iconic women of the 1920s, Dior’s show was rich with sophisticated hair and beauty notes. Guido Palau created hairstyles from the Joséphine Baker school of kiss curl artistry, creating immaculately sculpted looks with not a hair out of place. Short styles were centre-parted and sleeked down, or hair was braided and pulled back into low buns. Even baby hairs were neatly incorporated into each style.  

#5 - All that Brows 

Source visual: Mugler - Vogue Runway

Special attention was given to brows and lashes, as MUAs distorted conventions to play with colour and textural expectations. Echoing the social media trend for “Anti-It Girl” aesthetics, disappearing or bleached brows continue to trend strongly and were spotted at  Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexandre Vauthier and Valentino, among many others.  The blanked-out brow was often offset by juxtaposing, lash and eye looks. At Mugler, neon liner hovered just above the brow and was colour-matched with extra-long lashes. 

The CIC Take

TikTok’s influence is even being felt at Couture level. Key trends that have been buzzing on the platform are being reinterpreted with a luxury focus - from baby hair artistry to soft goth sophistication. Our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto explores how TikTok is helping to change global beauty expectations. Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

Maison & Objet Paris 2023: Interior Inspirations

Photo by Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

In the midst of this permacrisis, the latest edition of Maison & Object centered design that encourages consumers to refocus and reconnect. The imperative was to “Take Care”; take care of nature, yourself and each other, while also protecting culture, craft and heritage. 

In essence, this was a year for Slow Design, but out went the conventional minimalist aesthetics traditionally associated with the movement, and in came a bolder, more colorful expression of nature and artistry. It echoes the shift in Beauty, where consumer expectations for heightened creativity go hand-in-hand with expectations for care.

Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

#1 - The Home Cocoon: claiming for soothing spaces
The pandemic forced a slower pace of life, demanding consumers spend more time in their homes or appreciating the simple pleasures of nature. The idea of finding comfort in these intimate cocoons remains an important driver for consumers, and for many designers provided a key source of inspiration.  

In this new era, calm isn’t always equivocal with minimalism but is associated with homely, colorful and multi-textured interiors. Sensorial color, hyper-tactile surfaces, juxtaposing patterns and references to the outdoors elicit feelings of warmth and comfort. 

Laura Gonzalez drew inspiration from the tales of the Arabian Nights and the evocative scenes at Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech to create her installation, The revelation came to me from the East. In partnership with Schumacher, Gonzalez created an opulent scenography rich with woven fabrics, carved wood, ceramics and glassware. A color palette of amber,  burnt orange, mahogany and terracotta were accented with pops of green and blue (in reference to Majorelle) to create an evocative mis-en-scene. 

#2  New Ancestral: learning from the Past

Artisanal (and community) preservation is aligned with sustainability, as designers embraced the wonder of ancient handcraft and environmental practices. Craftspeople move to the forefront of design and artful upcycling is celebrated as a desirable skill.

Maison Intègre is an interior design brand based in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, where they create furniture and objects in bronze using the ancestral lost wax technique. Each piece is crafted by hand with recycled metal and is only produced in limited numbers.

Preserving the tradition of French craftsmanship, Galerie MAY produces exceptional furniture incorporating marquetry, lacquer and ceramics, with a decidedly contemporary flourish.

#3 - Regal Nature: praising the natural world

Nature has become the great unifier and healer in a period of upheaval and design is embracing the nature-trend aesthetic. Objects unveil figurations of nature elements putting the light on the animal and vegetal world. 

For the collaboration of Christian Lacroix and Vista Alegre, nature becomes a highly-decorative element to be treasured, reinforcing the precociousness of its vulnerability. Each piece in the collection of fine porcelain is inspired by the beauty and intricacy of nature; with names such as “butterfly parade” and “primavera”.

Home scent brand Erbolinea turns nature motifs into objects of luxury, topping glass reed diffusers with decorative ceramic pine cones and fruits, while Ateliers C&S Davoy places a menagerie of meticulously handmade 3D butterflies in an opulent gold frame. 

#4 - Raw Tactility: feeling through touching

Raw materials and rough, hand-thrown textures speak to the need for touch and sensorial interaction. Interiors dominated by a material palette consisting of wood, marble, travertine and clay, along with the colors of nature have a holistically soothing effect. 

Demand for these tactile materials and calming colors increased during the pandemic as consumers brought elements of wellness design into their homes. Now, designers are incorporating raw materials into ergonomic furniture concepts to create restful, cocooning interior elements. 

#5 - Playful Nostalgia: building a portal to Youth

In a state of permacrisis, playful design offers a safe space. A nostalgic vision that is connected to childhood memories, colors and motifs, emerges as a comforting form of escapism. Retreating into a child-like universe of no stress, no pressure, and no anxiety has become a form of self-soothing.

At Maison et Objet, the spirit of joyful exuberance was captured in the retrospective of Jean Charles de Castelbajac, where an edit of iconic interior pieces by the flamboyant designer confirmed the joy to be found in self-expression. While luxury fragrance brand Mr&Mrs* played with child-like references for their exclusive collection of products designed in collaboration with Guarda Annusa Godi.  

#6 – Awesome Color: designing Melanine decors

Striking color combinations and graphic arrangements are reminiscent of the Memphis Group, which is finding a new audience among Gen Z and Millennials looking to express artistic flair in the home environment. Brilliant simplicity and geometric shapes are emboldened with clashing hues of green, yellow, red, and blue… energy encapsulated by Ettore Sottsass’s iconic Carlton Shelves.

Avant-garde Belgian design collective valerie_objects showcased a collection of simple, geometric wall paintings surrounded by a halo of light from Tramonti Lighting, alongside chairs in paintbox brights by Swiss brand, SILENT. Inspired by various art movements in history, Futurismo presented fine porcelain tableware in vibrant, contrasting colors, and geometric shapes. 

#7  A Versatile Approach: betting on hybridity

With responsible consumption being a key theme at this year’s event, many brands took a versatile approach to design, showcasing products that can be used both inside and outdoors.  Just as we have seen the demand for hybrid and multifunctional beauty products surge, consumers will adopt this mindset across all of their purchase decisions as they seek more sustainable solutions. Increasingly hybrid lifestyles will call for adaptive and versatile interiors. 

The CIC Take:

Slow Living is evolving into Mindful Appreciation, as consumers keep the core principles of living consciously but add their own unique sense of joy and respect for artistry. 

For brands, this will translate into radical new methods of production that are ever more respectful of the environment, and considerate of the well-being of the planet and its inhabitants. Craftsmanship and expertise will be placed at the heart of the creative process. 

The message of Take Care echoes the core theme of our latest White Paper: The Age of Connection, where we highlight the need for Beauty brands to recognize the symbiotic relationship between people and planet. Drop us a line today to get hold of your copy.

The FRAGILE Power of Influencers - Focus on France

Source: Unsplash+

How much influence do influencers really have?  A recent study from Toluna France highlights consumers’ shifting relationship with influencers and their growing expectations for more authentic and purposeful interactions. 

Like almost every other country, France is experiencing the power of influencers. Despite new consumer expectations, tapping the influencer network remains a key way for brands to connect with French Gen Z social addicts. Here are 3 interesting points to highlight from this very rich and interesting survey.

1. The influence of influencers 

Overall, 53% of French consumers admit to following influencers, rising to 84% of Gen Z. Instagram is the preferred channel for influencer consumption at 69%, followed by TikTok at 39%. Among the digital native Gen Z, 89% prefer Instagram for content, and 58% prefer TikTok.

2. Trust is not a given

Pop culture is rife with caricatures and exaggerations of influencers, compounding an overall negative impression - a feeling held by 51% of all French consumers. The image of an influencer is a delicate asset for brands to manage and consumers are increasingly expecting more nuance and authenticity from these relationships. Only 41% trust brands that communicate through influencers. 

Consumers indicate that influencers represent a key source of discovery for new trends (89% overall / 91% for Gen Z), but only 50% say they view influencers as role models. Herein lies the influencer paradox - they are well-known, but not necessarily trusted, and yet two-thirds of consumers (61%) say influencers have an impact on major social issues, such as the environment or inclusion.

3. A symbiotic future

The research suggests that influencers still have a key role to play in the consumer-brand relationship, but expectations have evolved beyond pure product placement/ discovery.  

Nearly 8 in 10 (79%) French consumers expect brands to act more responsibly and extend this to how they engage with influencers. Consumers wish influencers to explore more important topics, reflecting their own shifting priorities. The subjects that consumers believe brands should engage influencers with include global warming (59%), social inequalities (57%), disability (49%) and minority rights (44%).

THE CIC TAKE

As consumers adopt more purposeful purchasing patterns, influencers must connect by becoming advocates for relevant social issues and topics, such as the environment, diversity, and equality. In this way, influencers can build trust and organically guide consumers toward brands.

When trust is not a given, brands need to manage influencer relationships with care. Create a more symbiotic dynamic where CSR values are authentically aligned with choices, and look towards flourishing micro-influencers for an authentic route in.

At Cosmetics IC, we feed our inspiration reports with insights and from our constant observation of social media. Ask about our monthly Instagram Book highlighting the key Beauty influencer's trends, the top 5 brands in EMV in the US, and the latest Instagram looks in Beauty.

Source: Toluna 

What's next for 'Clean Girl'?

Pic: Averie Woodard via Unsplash

In our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto, we explore the future direction of the Clean Girl aesthetic, as consumers evolve the trend into artistic new territories. 

One of the key aesthetics that emerged in 2022

The Clean Girl look centers on neutral, barely-there makeup, effortless yet glossy hair, and neat but understated nails.

This hyper-clean aesthetic continues to capture consumers’ imaginations, but in the fast-paced world of TikTok, #cleanbeauty (2Bn views) is already evolving into new expressions of minimalism. Consumers are leading with artistry, applying elevated skills to their daily routines to create brilliantly bare-faced beauty looks that shift the no-makeup makeup narrative.

How the #CleanGirl trend is influencing Beauty

Looking at Google search data, analysed by our partners at Spate, ultra-clean aspirations are moving in an ‘ultra-soaked’ direction. Shower-fresh and weather-bitten makeup looks are emerging as the next iterations of Clean Girl. 

Spate reveals an upsurge in wet-adjacent search terms including ‘juicy’, ‘dewy’, ‘glossy’, ‘glass’ and ‘jelly’. Year-on-year Google searches for ‘Dewy’ are up +73.6% and ‘Dewy Skin’ is +40.6%, (based on Google searches – 2022 vs 2021).

The Clean Girl aesthetic is not just for the face, we’re also seeing the trend reflected in a growing desire for minimalist nails, as seen in our latest analysis of nail trends.

 What it means for Beauty innovation

Consumers understand that there’s more to immaculate skin than meets the eye and they are scouting for products that double-down on benefits - pairing hydration with skin-smoothing - to create the best canvas for their Bare Artistry. 

Inspired by the K-beauty trend for skin slugging, new techniques that drench the skin (and hair) in ultra-rich moisture are becoming mainstream, thanks to social media. This movement is inspiring a new generation of clean foundations with super-moisturising capabilities, which are loaded with active ingredients inlcuding hyaluronic acid and precious oils; according to Spate figures, ‘Water-based Foundation’ searches are at +43.9% YoY.  Sales of prestige radiant foundations also increased by 42% from January to the end of October 2022, while sales of prestige highlighters increased by 24% (Source: NPD). 

Among the key launches in this space, which are highlighted in our report, is Westman Atelier’s Vital Skincare Complexion Drops (August 2022) which has the texture of a serum and the beauty of a skin tint. As a “bare skin” magnifier, it improves skin quality thanks to the inclusion of Tsubaki oil, ginseng and pomegranate extract.

TikTokers are moving on from matte to embrace still-in-the-shower wet looks, and this new direction is about achieving the ultimate all-over gloss on the skin, lids, lips and hair.  It’s a look that can be obtained with About Face’s Vinyl Effect Eye Gloss or the Gloss Medium formula from Pleasing, which can be used across the lips, eyes and face to create a radiant allover, high-velocity sheen or applied over pigments to elevate color and obtain a more glossy finish.

The CIC Take

There is an opportunity for brands to investigate new hyper-clean narratives, pairing the fundamentals of the clean aesthetic (hydrated and flawless skin, understated beauty) with creative new interpretations; from ‘I’m Cold’ to ‘Shower Makeup’. These are trends born and evolving on TikTok, where Gen Z creators are expressing the notion of ‘healthy’ in increasingly novel and artistic ways.

We explore the evolution of the hyper-clean trend, and much more, in our latest deep dive report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto. As ever, our research is supported by Spate’s invaluable data insights. Contact us today for more details.

The Age of Connection: 5 Predictions for 2023 and Beyond

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation presents 5 key predictions that will shape the Beauty industry in 2023 and beyond, as we look ahead with optimism, creativity and conviction. 

Through a period of polycrisis, consumers are discovering strengths that they never knew they had. They are more resilient, more adaptable and more connected than they ever realised.  And if recent global events have proven anything, it is that health, freedom, and the future of the planet are all deeply interwoven.  The success of one relies on the success of another. 

“Our future is symbiotic. And yet, the desire for individual recognition and expression remains a prescient driver.  As we move forward, consumers will continue to explore the special tension that exists between collective responsibility and personal growth, and between the quest for the optimised self and for globalised empathy,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. 

For a deep dive into 4 of these key trends, we hope you can join us at the next edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles, on February 16 & 17 2023. Leila Rochet will be hosting a series of Beauty Talks where she will be joined by industry insiders to explore many of the themes outlined below. See the trends illustrated through the latest products sourced from all over the globe at our Inspiration Bar.

Book your place here!

The predictions:

1. Eco-Collectivism: From Sustainability to Augmented Empathy

Armed with increased knowledge, consumers will drive brands even harder to alter their behaviours in order to recenter humanity, source with respect, honour community and support rigorous ethical practices. In 2023 brands must become empathetic ambassadors, and respond to a new generation of eco-socio intellectuals. 

Results from the 2022 UEBT Biodiversity Barometer demonstrate there is now a global consensus that while planetary health is a clear priority in the minds of consumers, so are issues surrounding workers' rights and equality. Sustainability issues are now rightly being understood in the context of wider geo-political events. Taking a strong stand on bio-diversity, French brand Eclo is a clean eco-native that only works with ingredients that are local to its Brittany HQ and which also help regenerate the soil and the seabed. 

Taking a collective responsibility approach, Indigenous-owned brands often balance respect for nature with individual growth. Operating within this type of intrinsically holistic value system The Yukon Soaps Company uses native, wild botanicals hand-picked by elders and local young people. The brand teaches harvesting practices that foster an emotional connection to the land. Through these shared experiences, the company triggers acts of healing within the Yukon community. 

2.  Artphoria: From Colour-Dosing to Creative-Finessing

Gen Z’s takeover of social media has created a space where niche is the norm, and micro-expressions are the new mainstream. This mindset shapes a new generation of beauty connoisseurs, who bring a fine art approach and an exacting attitude to the beauty sphere. As consumer confidence grows and their skills continue to develop thanks to the TikTok explosion, we see a growing desire to express individuality through exquisite artistry. 

Daring to be rare is something to be encouraged by brands, and those that speak to individuality and trigger creativity through wild innovation will gain traction. Pleasing is a brand that inspires consumers to master micro-artistry, coupled with an approach that is embracive of every identity. Its ultra-inclusive storytelling paves the way for a “Flat Age Society” where traditional age segmentation has diminishing influence. Pleasing also encapsulates another key element - escapism. 

3. Future ArchiTech: From Innovation Hunters to Progress Pioneers

The answer to tomorrow's challenges lies in adopting a science-first and solution-focused approach. This mindset is permeating the beauty sector, where radical innovation is welcomed by today’s logical and results-driven consumers. Younger generations are facing global challenges with a practical mindset, leaning into science and technology to forge world-changing solutions. STEM careers (science, technology, engineering and maths) are now the  #1 attraction for Gen Z, according to a recent study, with particular popularity among females and people of colour. 

Brands must embrace this appetite for innovation, leaning into other categories for inspiration to deliver game-changing solutions. Aeir is one such beauty brand that is using the latest technology to develop future-facing products. Combining their experiences at Tesla and the École Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne (ECAL), the brand founders have created a next-gen wellness fragrance that utilises NASA technology, zero extraction, bioengineering and generations-old craftsmanship.

Engineered nature will also propel the sustainability narrative in 2023, as more brands invest in bio-science innovation to deliver smart, and green, solutions. In 2022 we saw Ulé (France) and Monday Musem (South Korea) lead the way with the adoption of vertical farming techniques. At Ulé, experts create plant extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris, which allows the brand to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant in the process. Monday Museum’s Pink Inspiration Cream Drop uses red clovers cultivated using smart farm technology that is said to save up to 70% energy.

4. The Optimised Self:  Exploring the Personal Ecosystem

We are entering an era of intimately adaptive beauty that responds to the individual or is tailored specifically for individual needs.  Deep care is delivered on both an emotional and physical level as personal healing becomes a priority. Science and technology are leveraged to understand and accentuate your individuality, with an emphasis on inner beauty rather than aesthetic transformations.

The continued fetishization of health and immunity will drive the creation of unexpected territories, ushering in new opportunities for beauty supplements, skin-optimising trackers, AI-aided personalization, and at-home beauty devices that deliver ultra-bespoke and professional results. In fact, consumer interest in beauty tech is set to continue to increase continuously over the next five years, reaching $8.93 billion by 2026.

With personal growth and self-improvement becoming central drivers, brands are expanding the opportunities for health and well-being optimization. Homecare brand byMATTER has added a bio-active bedding collection to its range of cleaning products, which is designed to optimise skin health. Pillowcases made from Seawell, an innovative material formulated with seaweed and enriched with collagen, facilitate an exchange of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants between fabric and skin while users are asleep.

Providing a wellness wearable that restores inner balance, Lokai is a holistic bracelet infused with white beads that contain Himalayan water (a ‘high’ ingredient) and black beads containing clay sourced from the Dead Sea (a ‘low’ ingredient). The idea is that the secret ingredients will keep wearers hopeful and humble, accordingly. 

5. The Emotional Biome: From Self-Care to Mind-Care 

In a world that is perceived as super fragile, there is a heightened focus on mental wellness, brain care and psychological healing. Beauty that delivers emotional benefits on top of functional benefits will gain traction, as consumers look to balance feelings of vulnerability with products and experiences that simultaneously provide care and protection.

Consumers will also use beauty as a means of expressing their innermost feelings, as they re-focus on personal growth and inner tranquillity. The role of functional fragrances will become heightened, as consumers and brands explore the idea that perfume can deliver benefits that go way beyond scent.  This is an idea explored by American light artist  James Turrell who has developed a collection of crystal light panels and perfumes for Lalique, which play on the abstract concept of the light we see in our dreams. Turrell brings this ethereal quality to life in the form of tangible colour but also in the form of an abstract emotion, pushing “beyond what we think we know”.

Beauty imbued with cerebral and cognitive influence will play to the growing brain care category. Brain health supplements are forecast to grow at a CAGR of 8.3% from 2022 to 2030, as consumers explore new routes to optimise mind-care.

(Image: Anna Shvets via Pixels)

FROM LIVING WELL TO AGEING WEll…WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO GROW OLD?

Cottonbro - Via Pexels

Anti-aging is often cited as a top concern among beauty consumers, and yet, the very definition of what it means to age (and specifically to “get old”) is changing. A recent survey by Toluna x Harris Interactive reveals French consumers’ shifting perceptions of aging.

This interesting survey provides numerous insights on consumers perception and attitude towards ageing. We made a deep dive into the published results to highlight the report’s key takeaways and explore what this means for the Beauty industry.

The perception of ageing - a state of mind

According to the French, it’s impossible to assign a number to old age. When asked at what age one can consider someone as “being old”, 50% refuse to give a precise answer. However, on average, most respondents consider “old” to be 68 years, although this estimation differs widely depending on the age of the respondent (ranging from an average of 58 years for those under 35 to 74 years for those 65 and over). The perception of what it means to “be old” also depends on the social context. In a corporate context, the French consider the threshold to be lower at 54 years.

In fact, in the eyes of the French, age is much more a question of state of mind (85%) or state of health (81%) than chronological age (50%). Younger people, on the other hand, attach much more importance to age (73% among 18–24-year-olds).

Ageing synonymous of positive values

The French express a very optimistic image of maturity. For them, being ”old” means above all being able to pass on their life experience to others (88%), having more perspective (85%), and having more time for themselves (83%) and for their loved ones (81%). 

While some negative aspects are also associated with old age - considering that things were better before (71%), no longer understanding young people (62%), or having a less full social life (51%) - the French refuse to associate age with disconnection from society.

The French say they enjoy the company of their elders, especially when they are part of their family: 90% say they enjoy spending time with “old” family members. 

From bliss to risks: Ambivalent feelings

The French are relatively calm about the prospect of their own aging, 71% of them claim to be serene (but only 16% consider themselves very serene), while 29% admit to feeling anxious. However, these feelings differ by gender: while 80% of men say they are serene, only 63% of women say the same.

This serenity stems from the fact that the French associate old age with several positive life stages: access to property, settling down as a couple, having children, having grandchildren. However, other stages show that serenity in the face of advancing age remains relative. 

French people accept that there are certain markers of advancing age, such as a change in their physical appearance and feeling disconnected from the vocabulary and expressions of young people. However, age-related pain and cognitive decline are far greater concerns. 42% of French people say they are especially afraid of the risk of becoming dependent, and this prospect is much more worrying than the risk of isolation (15%) or changes in physical appearance (14%).

An aging society: A challenge and an opportunity 

The rapidly aging population is seen as both a challenge - the need to rethink social models - and an opportunity - the chance to make money.  French consumers are concerned as to how well society is prepared for this demographic change: only 46% believe that it is well anticipated, dropping to 38% among those 65 and older.

The fate of their elders is a real matter of concern for French people. Even after the Covid-19 crisis, two-thirds of French people (66%) consider that we do not care enough about the health of seniors in general. Thus, the 65+ age group feels that their financial situation (82%) and their opinion (81%) are not given enough attention.

The CIC Take:

• The industry must change the semantics around aging to reflect consumers’ more positive attitudes. Brands should increase representation of older skin types, taking a true-aging rather than anti-aging approach.

• Consumers are more concerned with aging healthily than reversing the aging process. Brands must take a holistic approach to the aging category.

• Middle age is a key territory for innovation - consumers in this demographic are optimistic about the aging process but are currently being underserved and overlooked.

(Source: Toluna x Harris Interactive Les Zooms de l’Observatoire Cetelem 2022: Survey 2/3 What does aging mean?)

GYM BEAUTY - From Sweat-care to self-care

Photo: Elina Fairytale via Pexels

Consumers’ hyper-concentration on all things health-related has spawned a wealth of recent product launches aimed at the post-pandemic Wellness Seeker. Now, beauty brands are taking to the gym and creating a new space for cosmetics and skincare products that address the physiological shifts experienced before, during and after workouts. 

Pushing beyond performance

We’ve seen brands successfully tap the workout market before, with targeted makeup products primed to withstand intense performance (see, CliniqueFIT launched in 2017 and Tarte’s 2016 line ) but the latest iteration of gym beauty involves a more holistic approach. Where previously brands have focused on gym-proof makeup, today’s consumer is not solely concerned with maintaining their glow on the treadmill. Consumers are looking for products that continue working well after their workout has ended, addressing their post-exercise skincare needs, actively smoothing, soothing and tightening, and enhancing their overall gym experience.

This month Revolution unveiled its new GYM line - a collection of products (including workout accessories) that are formulated not just to hold up to exercise but to actively address workout-specific skincare needs. Featuring products that respectively cool, relieve, tighten and firm the skin, the range also includes a metal Gua Sha and face roller to lift and sculpt, taking the body-boosting narrative one step further. 

A new space for self-care

In light of the post-Covid wellness surge, Revolution has spotted an opportunity to connect with consumers through the introduction of new self-care rituals centred around the workout experience. Shifting the emphasis away from pure endurance makeup to consider broader gym-related beauty needs from a wellness perspective, Revolution is carving out new territory.

It joins other brands that are leveraging the demand for more holistic care, such as the UK brand Face Gym which builds on the idea of “facial fitness”, providing a workout for the face through the use of multiple tools inspired by the kind of equipment usually found in the yoga studio. Face Gym has successfully developed a narrative of aesthetic care in a sport-inspired environment. In the US, the upsurge of wellness athleisure has seen leading brands including Lululemon and Alo Yoga expand beyond yoga pants into beauty lines. These brands are transitioning from their focus on “studio-to-street” fashion, and are moving towards the for “studio-to-beauty” expansions. Deeply rooted in mindfulness and wellbeing, such products will be sure to interest beauty buyers in their quest for self-optimising, self-care brands.

THE CIC TAKE:

To tap this emerging sector, brands must go beyond performance-proof cosmetics and consider the wider wellness opportunity that lies in developing pre-and-post workout products, tapping the growing demand for whole body and mind care. Embrace fitness semantics to engage health-focused beauty buyers who will take every opportunity to optimise their wellbeing.

SOCIETAL WELLNESS - REDEFINING BEAUTY

Photo: David Suarez via Unsplash

Driven by the idea of collective responsibility, consumers are redefining the concept of care, moving the emphasis away from the self and onto their community. Brands are being challenged to follow where sentiment is leading, and more than ever before, beauty in the US is being seen as a rallying voice for change.

In our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, we explore the trend for Societal Wellness, where values-driven consumers are challenging brands to take a stand on the big issues and address beauty’s developing role as a therapeutic medium.

As the US grapples with a mental health crisis (10.6% of young people in the US identify as having severe depression, with multiracial youth at the most risk) and growing division over reproduction rights, now is not the time for brands to stay silent. Brands that fail to stand up and be counted may lose the support of their core consumerbase - one in four Gen Z will not spend with a brand that does not take a stance on the big issues. Intrinsic values trump external validation for this powerful cohort.

Below is a taster from our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, where we explore the trend for Societal Wellness through three distinct pathways: 

• SOUL-CARE - BEYOND WELLNESS

In the grip of a mental health crisis, consumers are seeking solutions that lie outside of conventional thinking and practices. This creates an interesting opportunity for beauty brands, particularly as consumers become more open to alternative treatments that allow them to access deeper emotional healing. Brands are exploring the universes that exist around spiritual wellness, medicinal psychedelics and ritualistic healing in order to engage consumers with the pursuit of a deeper wellness that goes beyond the surface.

• ACCESSIBILITY ENHANCED - BEAUTY FOR ALL

As consumers propel the momentum around social awareness, Pride celebrations and Black History Month are growing in significance as opportunities to bring attention to the contributions, and struggles, of marginalized people. In this context, consumers are challenging brands to deliver on their diversity best practices, and move forward with BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ talent at the fore. NPD reports that in the 12 months ending in February 2022, Black-founded beauty sales increased by 45%, while the rest of the market grew by 30%. 

• POLITIBEAUTY - BRANDS FOR CHANGE

As we live through a period marred by huge civil unrest and global crisis, brands are realizing that they need to be vocal in order to connect with today’s politicized consumers. In the wake of the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe Vs Wade, many key beauty brands have taken a bold stance on abortion rights and issues around women’s equality. The pro-choice message chimes with the overwhelming backlash to the verdict amongst Gen Z . Since the decision was made, well over 100 beauty and wellness brands have joined the Don’t Ban Equality coalition to protect access to reproductive healthcare. 

A full copy of the report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now. Drop us a line for more details, and discover an in-depth analysis of the US makeup sector through six emerging universes and 18 pathways to innovation.

A SNAPSHOT OF FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRENDS - FOCUS ON COLOR

Photo: Chandri Anggara from Unsplash

As part of our ongoing partnership with intelligence platform, Spate, we dive into the data behind their latest consumer report and decode what it means for the French and US beauty sectors.  

“Spate’s rich data analysis brings deeper insight to our understanding of these distinct markets,”  explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “We are able to leverage Spate’s search analysis data to confirm our prospective vision. It also helps us to better understand nuanced cultural differences and consumer behaviours.”

Spate’s latest report reveals the behavioural specificities emerging from each market. Here are our three major takeaways from the July 2022 France & America: Hair & Makeup Trends Report:

• The rise of warm red tones for hair color

In both countries, warm red tones dominate search volume changes. In France, searches for ginger hair are +2.0K; burgundy +1.3K; auburn +1K; and copper +700.  While red is the warmest color for French consumers, rising interest in babylights (+1.1K) also suggests a desire for subtlety. Likewise, in the US, red hair is the most searched for hair color with a volume increase of +213.4K, with copper (+36.2K), auburn (+35.8K), ginger (+32.3K) and red highlights (+29.0K) also all featuring in the top ten.  

Across both countries consumers are using more nuanced search descriptors to find their desired hair shade, often searching for various colors alongside red hair, demonstrating a growing desire for tonal color with dimension and depth - as well as suggesting a desire for individuality.

As we noted from Spate’s previous report on the US/France skincare market, French consumers lean into the classics - and the hair color category is no exception, with L’Oreal holding out as the most searched-for brand. However, US consumers appear to be more open to challenger brands, such as overtone  (+1.4K), adore hair colour (+350) and creme of nature (+260), which top out as the brands with the greatest search volume increase YoY. 

• Lipstick at the centre of interest

Lipsticks score high by search volume increase in both countries (+14% in France, +37,5% in the US). It is therefore not surprising that lipstick sales have seen a + 28% rise in Q2 -2022 in the US according to NPD. 

Long-wear and glossy are at the top of the list for French consumers (+1.7K and +1.1K respectively), while shine (+35.2K) and lasting (+16.1K) score highest for the US. 

Interestingly for a country so defined by its love of the classics, magic/colour-changing lipstick is a rising category for French consumers, breaking into the top three most-searched-for benefits with an increase of +770 YoY. 

• Eyeliners shift from classic to contemporary

Searches for eyeliner are at +8.9% in France and +11% in the US. While white and brown eyeliner are owning overall search volume in both territories, blue eyeliner is also increasingly growing on the consumer radar (+230 in France and +19.1K in the US). Green is also breaking through in the US at +12.5K, with classic black dropping into third place for both countries. 

The CIC Take 

French consumers are slowly shifting away from the classics, and are exhibiting growing interest in on-trend, contemporary colors and formulations. The uptick in searches for more niche lipstick benefits (such as ‘color-changing’, ‘waterproof’ and ‘sheer’) present opportunities for brands to inspire with innovative new concepts.  What is emerging is a shift towards greater expressions of individuality, which is apparent in growing searches for nuanced hair colors and bolder eyeliners. 

Download the full report here.

What’s Next

The agency will explore this opportunity in detail at the upcoming MakeUp in New York event, where Leila will be joined by Olivier Zimmer and Addison Cain of Spate to discuss the major global drivers fuelling the appetite for pleasure and individual expression. In the second of four Beauty Talks hosted by the agency at Makeup in New York, Leila, Olivier and Addison will deep dive into Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure, leveraging the most recent Spate consumer data insights, based on the analysis of online search data from the US, France and the UK.

Meet the team at the MakeUp in New York, September 14 & 15, 2022 at River Pavilion - Javits Center, New York

Beauty Talk #2 - Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure

September 14, 3:30 pm – 4:15 pm at the Beauty Agora

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses. 

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

Photo: Essence - Facebook

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K.  Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K). 

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three.  The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K.  Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches.  The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319. 

CIC TAKE

• The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.

• With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.

• Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.

Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022

Why the US is the land of luxury opportunity

Photo: Tanya Bernard

American consumers are in a flamboyant state of mind.  Since the pandemic, the US has made an impressive economic recovery, with Bloomberg confirming the country’s status as a global leader in luxury consumerism.  And according to Euromonitor’s Global Wealth and Luxury Report 2022, by 2030, the US will be home to the world’s largest population of high-net-worth individuals and ultra-high-net-worth individuals.

1- Revealing new luxuriant aspirations

Take inspiration from recent luxury launches, activations, and AW22 collections which capture the contemporary sophistication of the US luxurian.

Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta / Tom Ford

• Overt Wealth: How do you show the world you’re a crypto-luxurian? A new limited-edition collaboration from Fendi and global digital asset management platform Ledger, has resulted in a collection of tech accessories designed to hold Ledger’s secure hardware crypto wallet. The collection was unveiled at Fendi’s Men’s AW22-23 fashion show on January 15.

• Day Luxe: For his AW22 collection, Tom Ford offset a monochrome color palette with sumptuous fabrications, that reinforced the desirability of the jewel box palette. Ford layered mono-colors to create depth and richness, bringing a heightened sophistication to daywear. 

• New Territories: Luxury brands are rediscovering the US and as the country gets wealthier, they are eyeing second - and even third-tier - cities as new retail hotspots. Prada is heading to Austin, Louis Vuitton will show its 2023 Cruise collection in La Jolla, California, and Kering has announced plans to expand its retail presence in Nashville and Atlanta.

2. Luxury’s new beauty codes

In our latest What’s Up US Makeup report, we highlight 10 of the latest trends for the US market, including the New Luxury Expression - a trend propelled by the buoyant US economy, ascending consumer optimism, a desire for higher sophistication, and to, quite frankly, look expensive.

The AW 22/23 catwalk season confirmed that sophistication is back. From haute hair styling to ultra-glam makeup, the luxury of freedom is being expressed through sophisticated new looks. And Americans are in the mood for a party - after months of restrictions, the return of socializing is a gift for those wanting to make a bold beauty statement.  In Beauty this manifests as a look that is equal parts Wall Street and 90s It Girl.

• Brown Brilliance: Intense chocolatey hues replace minimalist and neutral colors. Dark creamy lipsticks or coffee-and-cream nail polish are the new aesthetics to follow.

• Ultra-Comfort Matte: According to Spate, the number of searches using the term “Matte” has experienced +13,7% growth amounting to 762,4 K monthly searches. “Cream to Powder Foundation” was at +175,1% (Source: Spate NYC Tool - End March 2022 - Year Over Year).

• Monochromatic Statement: Color becomes a conduit for pleasure and self-expression, with vivid combinations and striking monochromes representing luxury’s new dynamism. Full-color looks make a bold statement, this is see-and-be-seen beauty that draws on layering mono-color to striking effect. 

This is an extract from our latest What’s Up US Beauty report for Spring 2022.

Our new What's Up report analyzes the latest evolution of the US Beauty market, decoding the societal changes and innovative paths of beauty brands, organized around ten inspirational trends.

Each trend is supported by examples of aspirational beauty archetypes, along with information on the new indie players, concepts and products that are changing the Beauty game. Every trend confirmation is backed by key data analysis provided by the Spate NYC Google search tool and Tribe Dynamics latest figures, allowing us to deliver you an even deeper level of actionable insight and market accuracy. 

Seventy pages, ten trends, unmissable insight.

contact us to ask for more information or for a quotation.

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Why brands should think more about adaptive Beauty

Photo: Ron Lash via Pexels

In a world where 15% of the population are living with some form of disability and the number of people aged over-60 is set to double by 2050, it is now critical for brands to consider Adaptive Beauty as part of their strategy.

Representing a quarter of the population in the United States, people with disabilities hold an estimated spending power of $490 billion, yet their needs continue to be overlooked by many brands. Forward-thinking companies are beginning to bring solutions with adaptive products, tools and packaging that allow those with particular needs to be part of the Beauty conversation - without any concessions or limitations. We are already seeing early signs of a new approach to Beauty taking shape, where holistic empathy for all humans and for the planet is driving new product innovation and creative expression. 

Beauty Brands can take inspiration from other industries, which are making accessibility a priority.

1. Innovation in adaptive fashion and sportswear

   In fashion, Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2021 Adaptive Collection was designed specifically for adults and children living with disabilities. Nike has created a handsfree sneaker in the Go FlyEase, which works due to the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge holding the shoe in a steady open position. While Gen Z brand Rebirth Garment tackles accessibility through a body non-conformist lens, creating bold wearables and accessories for people on the full spectrum of gender, size and ability. Similarly pitching at a younger demographic Intimately is a new, trend-led adaptive lingerie brand that designs for individuals with reduced hand dexterity and shoulder mobility. There is also an Intimately mobile app where members of the disabled community can connect with one another.

2. Facilitating in-store access

   Pantene have partnered with blind broadcaster and TikTokker Lucy Edwards for the launch of their new NaviLens codes on Pantene Miracles products and display shelving. NaviLens is like a next-generation QR code;. users download the NaviLens app to scan with their mobile camera to receive the distance to the product, along with the necessary information contextualized, in this instance product information including descriptions of the bottle shapes.

   A Starbucks store located inside the Seoul National University Dental Hospital sets the tone for what truly adaptive retail can look like. The entire store, including back-of-house, is fully wheelchair accessible, and all staff are trained in basic Korean Sign Language. Other features include contactless speech-to-text voice recognition through a tablet, a Braille menu, and digital signage which lets customers track the progress of their order.

   Amplifying its commitment to size and skin tone inclusivity, Savage x Fenty’s new Las Vegas flagship leverages tech to create a more inclusive and safer shopping environment. The store features Fit:Match AI technology, using an iPhone to scan a shopper’s body dimensions in a matter of seconds. The app then provides product recommendations based on the user’s size and shape, allowing them to purchase without having to try on in-store.

3. Adaptive Beauty underway

   In Beauty, inclusivity and accessibility are also moving beyond the issue of skin color. Kohl Kreatives is a post-inclusive beauty brand specialising in tools supporting individuals with motor disabilities, transgender people and individuals going through, or recovering from, cancer treatment. The Flex Collection makeup brush set is tailored towards anyone with a motor disability or disease.

   Olay has developed the open-source and unpatented Easy Open Lid to widen the accessibility of the brand’s moisturiser products. The lid has winged sides and a raised top with added texture for grip, higher-contrast product labels and Braille text. The lid was developed in consultation with physical therapists, occupational therapists, and UX experts to improve usability for people with a wide range of dexterity issues. 

Adaptive Beauty is one of the trends we highlight in our latest USA Trend Report - The New State of Being. It is also one of the key highlights or our White Paper - The age of Fluidity - Trends 2022 and beyond.

Contact us for more information.

Beauty’s Bounceback IN USA

Pic: Pexels - Guilherme Almeida

The latest figures from The NPD Group underscore the rising mood of consumer optimism, as the US beauty industry emerges from last year +30% versus 2020 (the equivalent of $22bn in sales).  Fragrance was the best performing category (+49%) YoY, followed by haircare (+47%), makeup (+23%), and skincare (+18%).  

For many, returning to the office and the revival of social activities has fuelled the appetite for new products. Coupled with a lockdown diet of TikTok tutorials, consumers are feeling more creative and experimental than ever. According to NPD’s data, there was a growth in sales of cream and stick blushes - two products that have gained particular popularity on social media. Further to that, brands helmed by high profile influencers and creators had the highest revenue gains among all the makeup brand types. 

In the skincare category, sales of facial cleansers, creams, and serums, grew between 15% and 24%, versus 2020. Sales of targeted products, like eye and lip treatments, also increased. Clinical skincare brands contributed the highest revenue gains to the category, and surpassed natural as the largest brand type in skincare, based on revenue.

“As we move through 2022, the beauty companies that will thrive are those that harness the industry’s unique ability to spread joy, while also recognizing the opportunities of a changed consumer and retail environment. We can expect more change to unfold in 2022, but, along with these changes, new opportunities for the beauty industry will present themselves.” Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at NPD

In our latest trend report, The New State of Being - Makeup, our team charts beauty’s positive rebound and how optimistic consumer sentiment is not only driving the continued bounceback of the beauty market but is also translating into exciting new product directions. Our next report, The New State of Being - Skincare, will be available in March. 

Top 5 Beauty PREDICTIONS for 2021 ( and Beyond)

Photo Credit - Isco

2020 has been the year of acceleration of significant trends and a year that has reshaped the market forever, as consumers have disrupted their behavior in the way they shop, their needs, and their beauty aspirations. As 2021 has started, hopes are emerging, and brands need to prepare for the new normal. 

Consumers have lived through a year of new experimentations, more in-depth knowledge through digitalization, and have had the time to think about what they truly value in their lives (and their Beauty). 

 2021 will be essential to reinvent, find new dimensions of excellence and luxury, redefine values, meet new requirements, and participate in resilience.

This article highlights 5 of our predictions in 2021 and beyond, based on key highlights from 2020 and the evolutions we expect for the future.

An extract of a white paper available at the agency. 

1.      From Transparency to Radical Traceability

As trust is the new currency, safety and wellness become key; brands will need to explore radical traceability solutions. 

Transparency is a prerequisite of conscious consumption, and 2020 has reinforced the need to make a safe choice for anything applied on skin. Moreover, reaching global wellbeing implies ethical decisions, especially in luxury.  IPSOS Luxury survey shows that 90% of the affluent Chinese expect brands to have an ethical/ecological commitment, and 88% expect them to respect animal wellbeing. More than words, consumers call for facts. 

According to the UEBT 2020 survey, consumers expect more information on packaging: 82% want to know the origin of ingredients, and 78% wish to know the social impact of sourcing local ingredients. In 2020, the discussion on ethical sourcing accelerated.  In the USA, Beautycounter has made a massive communication on responsible sourcing, pointing out the “clean” origing of their Mica and the urgence to fight against hidden forced labor. 

British E-Retailer, Cult, has cooperated with the blockchain technology platform Provenance to collect information about the source, ingredients, craftsmanship, and requirements of its products, and then use evidence to prove the authenticity of this information

2.      From "Skinification" to augmented "Healthification."

"Skinification" was the major trend in 2020, as consumers shifted from makeup to the "pandemic-proof" skincare market. But what 2020 has taught us is the importance of prevention for our health. According to Innova's Consumer Survey 2020, "six out of ten global consumers are increasingly looking for F&B products that support their immune health. One in three says that concerns about immune health increased in 2020 over 2019". 

A healthy complexion has always been the quintessence of Beauty, but consumers are actively looking at ingredients that bring more than a quick fix or beautiful makeup. According to WWD, Vitamins, supplements, and even homeopathic remedies experienced unprecedented levels of demand during the April coronavirus pandemic in the US. We have seen skincare transitioning to self-care, as consumers were spending more time at home, dealing with anxiety and their mental health. Interest in wellness has increased, and new brands are taking the stand to answer this new need. Psychotherapy brand Disciple offers a holistic approach to stress-relief and answers to anxiety-related skin issues such as acne.

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The British wellness DTC brand Nue Co. launched Forest Lungs, a fragrance "supplement" intended to "deliver the healing effects of nature to the body [and] support the reduction of everyday stress."   

3.      From Skintellectualization to "Science Inside"

The "skintellectualization" of Beauty has emerged as a significant trend in 2020, propelled by Gen Z. 

Empowered by digital tools, these consumers are armed with in-depth Beauty knowledge and are now "ingredient wizards", even more attentive to INCI. Online, they are building a digital Beauty library, thanks to all the knowledge passed on forums, Reddit, Youtube, and social media.

@Skincare By Hyram

Simultaneously, a new generation of influencers such as skincare guru @Hyram in the US or @Secret de Peau in France, deciphers every product. Ready to make the next leap, ingredient-focused brand Inkey List drives the trend with a pedagogical approach to imperfections, specific protocols, and a radical education of consumers.

While recent years' fascination for mystical wellness was key, led by gurus such as Gwyneth Paltrow, we now see a renewed quest for scientific legitimacy. 2020 was the year of the emergence of scientific expert brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm. Her website relaunch in September 2020 focused on more educational features, propelling the views to  + 400%, according to Glossy.Co, Dr. Barbara Sturm's success embodies this new quest for science reinforcement – calling for experts, doctors, PHD with solid backgrounds and claims backed with scientific facts. 

4.      From Sustainability to Eco Celebration

 The recent sanitary crisis led to an acceleration of the expectation of consumers for purpose-driven and sustainable solutions. Mc Kinsey mentions "sustainability first”, while 57% of consumers in Germany and the UK declared, "they had made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact."

2020 was a significant year in sustainability stand up from brands in all markets. From zero-waste dining restaurants, zero-waste design, second-hand fashion or trashion (fashion with trash), innovation with eco-friendly solutions have accelerated, pushing brands to rethink packaging, product-delivery system, and delivery. New refills solutions (ex Unilever, Clarins Eco-Bar, Shiseido) have propelled the concept of zero waste beyond Indie. In the USA, Clean retailer Credo has sped up their Clean 2.O philosophy prioritizing sustainability by announcing that in 2023 they will banish single-use packaging, from single-use masks to testing wands in store.  Same for Selfridges in the UK, progressing in reducing its "plastic footprint" banning wipes to plastic-based glitter. All-over bold moves in the context of a sanitary crisis.

5.      From Lockdown Beauty to Unleashing Freedom 

 2020 lockdown transformed homes into safe life-spaces and wellness sanctuaries. 

This "home-hubbing" behavior created new needs, like self-care, intimate skincare, or the quest for minimalism. Lockdown was also an opportunity to self-experiment. Makeup became a powerful tool to fight boredom and fuel personal creativity. From maximalist nudes to extreme color payoffs, "lockdown looks", we witnessed the rise of highly creative looks shared on social media. Some 46% of women and 41% of men said they've spent more time on social media during the pandemic (source: Business.com). Instagram story, Tik Tok, and Twitch thus became the perfect platforms to boost self-expression, fight boredom, and seek inspiration. These platforms privilege movement, fun, freedom, far away from the lavish looks of Instagram and the hybridization of the virtual and real world.

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Shining example: the collaboration Travis Scott x Byredo gave birth to the Space Rage perfume, which encapsulates the essence of space to fly from home. The virtual gathering also increased to connect meaningfully, express creativity, and feel alive. Beauty brands surfed the trend: Morphe collaborated with the d'Amelio sisters on TikTok, and ELF created ASMR-like videos for their new Mint Collection. New into cosmetics market, we also explore the impact of Twitch in Makeup.

The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, Consulting and Forecasting Agency, specialist of the Beauty world, just launched its latest Inspiration Makeup USA trend book. Interested? Feel free to contact us !

THE RISE OF THE INDIE FRENCH TOUCH - 3 GREEN SPOTS IN PARIS

Photo: Peter Bucks in Paris via Unsplash

Did you forget about French Touch? After a few explosive years driven by American indie brands, French Indies are on the rise…

A wave of optimism is arriving in Paris, with new indie beauty brands created by founders that propose creative and disruptive stories. More specifically, new French brands are opening the chapter of green beauty, with a contemporary French signature i.e. infused with sophistication, high refinement and sensoriality.

Here is a selection of new addresses in Paris we are happy to share. Crafted by young entrepreneurs who believe that the future is in experiential retail, the power of shareable spaces and green alternatives, these boutiques are truly innovative. These brands or retailers are also raising the bar in sustainability innovation, most of them proposing refillable products as a natural continuity of their concept. In France, more and more consumers favor more sustainable practices. In fact, 47% consumers have already bought products in bulk in 2017 (vs 38% en 1998 according to Credoc - one of the highest figures in Europe!). No wonder these new places expand the idea to beauty and personal care.

Have a look at the three "must visit" hot green spots in Paris.

Amalthea - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Amalthea - The Lab-Boutique

This young, organic, sustainable and 100% made in France organic skincare brand just opened a lab-boutique in the Marais. Simple formulation and a line organized by moments.

❤️: we love the design-minded, peaceful space, sustainable & refillable packs.

🏠 Amalthea (📸insta: @amalthea.bio)

39 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris

Kerzon - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Kerzon - “Madeleine de Proust”

Founded by two brothers, Kerzon is a home fragrance and personal care brand that draws inspiration in travels and childhood. The store is “a paradise for flaneurs from the world” as expressed by the brand.

❤️ : Parisian graphic design (chic and fun), refreshing fragrances and ethical values (local, fair price, transparency).

🏠 Kerzon (📸insta: @kerzon_maison)

68, rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris

The Naked Shop - photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

The Naked Shop - Zero Waste / 100% Style

The Naked Shop is one of the first zero-waste Beauty store in Paris, made with style and energy. Oils and cosmetics can be refilled directly with the beautiful taps.

❤️ : special mention to the "self-service" system to freely refill products.

🏠 The Naked Shop ( 📸insta: @the.naked.shop)

75, rue Oberkampf 75011 Paris

Thank you 🙏🏻 to the owners of these new spaces for sharing their stories and allowing us to take pics.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation will be issuing a French Touch Trend Report. For more information or to book a Paris Beauty Tour - Contact us !

RAISING THE BAR OF CLEAN BEAUTY

Photo Credits: Airony Haut / Unsplash

Much like clean eating, clean beauty has recently taken the industry by storm. Yet, as the wellness movement continues to influence industry, more and more clean beauty products are being dropped into a market where there are no recognized clean-certified labels.

Initially driven by safety concerns, the clean beauty movement originally focused on what was NOT in a product, rather than what was. Today, as consumers want more, clean beauty is taking a new turn. From niche to mainstream, new clean products are not just “safe”; they are becoming increasingly sensorial and luxurious.

WHEN FEAR TURNS TO LOVE

Like many beauty trends, it all started with food. The #cleaneating hashtag has garnered over 42 million mentions on Instagram, to the point where it has its very own eating disorder, orthorexia.

Like many wellness trends (from organic to cruelty-free and green), a blend of fear and love has driven this new clean beauty movement, as much like food, cosmetics are meant to be both indulgent, but safe for consumers. Worn close to the body and against the skin, beauty products have always symbolized a soulful sense of love, self-care and intimacy.

In contrast, fear has been fueled by the opaque nature of beauty industry messaging, especially when it comes to ingredients, how products are made and the fear consumers have that they are simply being marketed to. . Knowing what’s in their product and learning how to read a label has become a top priority for consumers who are now buying with a digital driven mindset. According to a survey by Label Insight, 46% of consumers admit to using a smartphone to research product information in-store, with as many as 56% of Millennials admitting to doing so. With the arrival of Gen Z in the marketplace, future waves of consumers are more likely to be receptive to a clean approach to Beauty.

Photo - Lawrson Pinson / Unsplash

They are also less likely to respond to greenwashing, thanks to self-empowering digital tools and a new access to information. Especially given the rise in availability of label deciphering apps for smartphones such as Clean Beauty, Yuka, 화해(Hwahae), Inci Beauty, Pharmapocket, CosmEthics, Healthy Living or Beat the Microbead, all designed to break down what products actually contain.

So, according to the apps what are the clean rules?

Here is the thing: “clean” is more about what isn’t in the product rather than what is. Think: a policy of including “no nasties”, or in other words, beauty enemies including chemicals and artificial ingredients. Just like new French Beauty brand Seasonly puts it in its motto “the skin you want, minus the ingredients you might not.”

THE BEAUTY BRANDS DEFINING CLEAN BEAUTY

While some ingredients are banned for use in beauty products (more so in Europe than in the US), the legal definition of clean is still very much up for debate. All the same, clean usually means that a product is made in a safe lab using non-toxic ingredients, is made mindfully, free from synthetic materials and has been enriched with specially sourced ingredients. This is where indie brands thrive, as by virtue of having a small staff who can produce small batches, they are more likely to be perceived as clean beauty labels.

For clean brands, giving their own precise definition of what they consider to be “Clean Beauty” is key in their manifesto. Goop, one of the leaders in the clean movement writes:

“At Goop, we are creating a new standard of beauty. Clean, for us, is quite intense: It means a non-toxic product that is made without a long, ever-evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects from hormone disruption, to cancer, to plain-old skin irritation. To name just a few: parabens, phthalates, PEGs, ethanolamines, chemical sunscreens, synthetic fragrance, BHT, BHA. “

Credit: courtesy of Goop

Tata Harper, one of the founding mother of the trend back in 2010, takes non-toxicity and traçeability to heart. “Every single product we make is a Complex Formula. We pack the most ingredients at the highest levels of concentration to deliver maximum results—without a single drop of artificial chemicals.” As such, the brand declares all of its products to be free from GMO, toxins, fillers, artificial colors, artificial fragrances and synthetic chemicals. Today, the Tata Harper brand is recognized as one of the most successful premium clean brands, boasting sales approaching $68 million dollars (source: WWD).

Photo credits: @_seasonly

FROM CLEAN RETAILERS TO MAINSTREAM RETAILERS’ SHIFT TO CLEAN

In the US, The Detox Market is a pioneer within the clean movement and a major actor in all things green beauty. Its focus has always been discovering and incubating new brands, and in showcasing brand founders’ stories that reflect a passion for non-toxic beauty choices. The retailer took a “safety pledge” promising to only sell products that are free from the banned ingredients featured on a comprehensive, continuously updated list that includes most parabens, synthetic fragrances, PEGS and petrochemicals -- among others.

Credo, the other big player in the Clean Beauty game, first started in 2015 in San Francisco and now boasts more than 8 shops and shops/spa across the US. The retailer displays a “dirty list” of toxic ingredients on its website, including aluminium powder, EDTA, petrolatum, paraffin, phthalates, colorants, glycols, lanolin, keratin etc.

Another shining example, the new kid on the Manhattan block, is Follain, a company which cultivates deep relationships with women, offers customers package-free options (such as refillable soaps) and a slew of clean alternatives via niche brands including French Girl, Osea, Rahua, Pai and Tata Harper. The retailer even goes as far as to claim that “less than 20% of cosmetics ingredients have been tested for safety”, with an impressive list of restricted ingredients.

Mainstream retailers in the US have also joined the clean beauty movement via initiatives such as the “Clean at Sephora” label. With this label, the retail giant promises to curate “clean stuff only”, under the motto “the beauty you want, minus the ingredients you might not.” This applies to products free from sulfates, SLS and SLES, parabens, formaldehyde, mineral oils, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban. They also pledge that products will contain less than one percent synthetic fragrance. 

Photo credits: @thedetoxmarket

While Clean beauty is becoming mainstream in the USA, Europe and Asia trends are more towards “natural beauty” and “green beauty”.

 In France, le Printemps Department store just opened a « Green Market », a beauty corner dedicated to natural and sustainable beauty. In Japan, Cosme-Kitchen has become the "Natural & Organic” retailer with several point of sales featuring Japanese and international beauty brands.  

In a nutshell, the emergence of Green Beauty is worldwide, becoming more premiumized, and is the beginning of a mainstream movement that will impact the future of beauty: a safe, reassuring yet highly sensorial new chapter of Clean Beauty is underway.

Want to know more about clean beauty? Not only has The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency just released a new Skincare Edition of its US trend report, but it will be hosting the "Rise of the Natural & Clean Movement" roundtable discussion at the upcoming Makeup In L.A. conference. For a copy of Beauty Focus on Clean Beauty, prices and conditions, feel free to contact the agency.